The Official Lead Tape Placement+Racket Customization Thread

[Wscarthy]

Reviving thread as it is very useful!

I have been tinkering with my Tecnifibre TFight RS 300. I added 0.5g of tungsten tape at 10 and 2 to bump up the swing weight a tiny bit.

I have always just added blue tac under the trap door to add additional weight to the handle for other racquets. But, since Tec racquets don’t have trap doors I tried using lead tape on the handle for the first time.

I added two 1g vertical strips of lead tape running down the top of the handle on the more rectangular bevels and I was shocked at how different the racquet felt. It had incredible plow through and stability, but very hard to control the ball. It both felt amazing and terrible, haha.

Next I tried two 1g strips just above the butt cap going around the handle, and it felt ok, but still a bit strange.

I am now trying a leather grip and I have a feeling it will be the best option. I think the problem I am having with lead tape is that it adds weight in too centralized of locations making the racquet feel strange.

I may try adding a very small amount of weight to the throat area as the stability of my first setup was amazing.

All in all, if you enjoy racquet tinkering, it is definitely worth trying lead tape at different areas of the racquet, as a small amount can make a big difference!

 

[tomato123]

hello, I have a bit of a racquet matching puzzle that I can't seem to quite solve. I have two racquets:

R1: 288g, 32.9cm, 289SW unstrung
R2: 287g, 33.1cm, 293SW unstrung

Basically the closest/easiest mod was to add 1 gram at 12 on racquet 1 (289g, 33cm, 292SW), and 2 grams under the buttcap on racquet 2 (289g, 32.9cm, 293SW) but is there a better solution, even if it means adding a bit more weight at different locations on both racquets? I know the difference here is negligible but thought I'd ask anyway. Thanks.

 

[djNEiGht]

hello, I have a bit of a racquet matching puzzle that I can't seem to quite solve. I have two racquets:

R1: 288g, 32.9cm, 289SW unstrung
R2: 287g, 33.1cm, 293SW unstrung

Basically the closest/easiest mod was to add 1 gram at 12 on racquet 1 (289g, 33cm, 292SW), and 2 grams under the buttcap on racquet 2 (289g, 32.9cm, 293SW) but is there a better solution, even if it means adding a bit more weight at different locations on both racquets? I know the difference here is negligible but thought I'd ask anyway. Thanks.

these type of specs drive me crazy...but your idea sounds like minimal weight to get the job done. try it and see how you like it. then if you feel like you don't mind overall weight added to both, go for it. maybe make the target weight 295g

 

[dnj30]

Well, the 2 frames are awfully close to one another in every spec. Sw diff of 4pts is slightly significant depending on how sensitive you are. The biggest question that has to be answered when talking about matching frames is how high of a static weight are you willing to accept. Any 2 frames can be perfectly matched if you are willing to just keep adding weight until balance point and swingweight are equal. The problem is you may now have 2 rackets that are way to heavy to play with, static weight wise. It's a bottomless rabbit hole!

 

[2ndServe]

Anyone have tips on lead placement vcore 95 2023?

 

[djNEiGht]

Anyone have tips on lead placement vcore 95 2023?

I had lead at 12. about 2g IIRC

 

[MasturB]

I've been using my Babolat Pure Strike VS with lead on the 12 for a year now. My 1hbh is great. Able to plow through, slice has nasty bite to it.

My forehand is ok. Leaves a lot to be desired. Basically my shots are steering to the right of where I'm aiming. I don't have this issue with the 1HBH, but forehands (especially open stance) are either pulling too much to the left or going a few feet wide to the right. If I buggy whip forehand, seems easier to control the direction, but swinging across the chest I'm just not getting the same stability.

I would assume since the buggy whip is very low to high swing similar to my 1HBH it's a different swing path than driving through.

Should I experiment moving ghe lead from the 12 and maybe to the 3 and 9? Or the 10 and 2?

I don't wanna sacrifice how good my 1HBH feels. But I really need to improve the stability on the forehand.

 

[MasturB]

I've put long strip on the 12, it's great for my 1HBH. Especially topspin ans slice. Able to plow right through.

My forehand though I'm hitting it and the ball is tailing to the right instead of the line i want it. So forehands up the line it's going 4-5 inches wide. Buggy whip forehands on the run aiming cross are tailing back to the center. Forehand to forehand cross exchanges I'm not getting the pull i want.

Would putting weight at 9:3 help this? Maybe take less weight off at the 12 and use a shorter strip but add weight on 9:3?

LOL. I asked this question a year ago.

 

[anfield]

I tend to just like putting as little weight as possible and that's normally 1g or 1.5 at 12 for my OHBH. I use a PS97 315g v13 and it has weight at 9 and 3. I would say, try this 9/3 weight since your forehand seems to need more help and if your can adapt for the OHBH.

 

[ZeroandOne]

I've put long strip on the 12, it's great for my 1HBH. Especially topspin ans slice. Able to plow right through.

My forehand though I'm hitting it and the ball is tailing to the right instead of the line i want it. So forehands up the line it's going 4-5 inches wide. Buggy whip forehands on the run aiming cross are tailing back to the center. Forehand to forehand cross exchanges I'm not getting the pull i want.

Would putting weight at 9:3 help this? Maybe take less weight off at the 12 and use a shorter strip but add weight on 9:3?

LOL. I asked this question a year ago.

I would add some weight at 7" up the handle, see if that improves timing

 

[MasturB]

I tend to just like putting as little weight as possible and that's normally 1g or 1.5 at 12 for my OHBH. I use a PS97 315g v13 and it has weight at 9 and 3. I would say, try this 9/3 weight since your forehand seems to need more help and if your can adapt for the OHBH.

So you think put less at the 12 and distribute more at 9:3?

 

[anfield]

I'm not an expert but weight at 12 works best for me because you don't need much. There are so many variable here, you could have tried new strings and they are lighter or heavier. That rubber ring Babolat puts where you tape an overgrip is 3-4 grams and you may have taken it off, moved it up, or down. If you are not using that rubber ring, put it on at 7 inches and see what it does to your swing. As far as weight in hoop, try taking half the weight of what's at 12 and putting at 10-2, see if that get the forehand around quicker. Are you hitting on a wall or ball machine? It's good to have instant feedback. You can get lost in this, I just mess around when hitting on the wall and I can tell right away: https://www.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/how_to/customize_your_tennis_racquet.html

 

[aaron_h27]

It's painful to see people ask where to put lead tape without listing their specs and desired outcome. It's really just a guessing game if you don't measure specs.

 

[Donmikan]

It's painful to see people ask where to put lead tape without listing their specs and desired outcome. It's really just a guessing game if you don't measure specs.

Its still a guessing game even with specs, and it might be even worse to follow unproven theories.

 

[MasturB]

I tend to just like putting as little weight as possible and that's normally 1g or 1.5 at 12 for my OHBH. I use a PS97 315g v13 and it has weight at 9 and 3. I would say, try this 9/3 weight since your forehand seems to need more help and if your can adapt for the OHBH.

I'm not an expert but weight at 12 works best for me because you don't need much. There are so many variable here, you could have tried new strings and they are lighter or heavier. That rubber ring Babolat puts where you tape an overgrip is 3-4 grams and you may have taken it off, moved it up, or down. If you are not using that rubber ring, put it on at 7 inches and see what it does to your swing. As far as weight in hoop, try taking half the weight of what's at 12 and putting at 10-2, see if that get the forehand around quicker. Are you hitting on a wall or ball machine? It's good to have instant feedback. You can get lost in this, I just mess around when hitting on the wall and I can tell right away: https://www.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/how_to/customize_your_tennis_racquet.html

Just somewhat of an update here. I took my second frame, removed the lead from the 12 and put new strips on the 9 and 3 (added same weight as I would on the 12, just cut it into 4 strips rather than 2).

The forehand actually felt much better direction/controlwise, but I instantly could feel much much less plow on my backhand, as well as on the forehand. It was solid but did not have that extra plow on it. Oh and my slice backhand was also not getting any bite or keeping low trajectory. It was popping up and floating.

Usually when I go for an aggressive slice backhand, my hitting partners have a hard time picking it off the ground because it skids so low and they dump it in the net or are forced to slice it back. Today no bite, and they just pounced on it.

I'm not ready to give up on the experiment. Should I add even more weight at the 9:3? Also thought about trying 10:2 as well. Or maybe even keep the weight I have on the 9:3 right now and add a bit at the 12?

So if what I read earlier is accurate, putting it the 12 increases the swingweight without having to physically add as much weight. But 9:3 has less swingweight even if I use the same amount of lead added that I put on the 12, because of the balance? That's why I'm asking if I should add more at the 9:3?

 

[esm]

Just somewhat of an update here. I took my second frame, removed the lead from the 12 and put new strips on the 9 and 3 (added same weight as I would on the 12, just cut it into 4 strips rather than 2).

The forehand actually felt much better direction/controlwise, but I instantly could feel much much less plow on my backhand, as well as on the forehand. It was solid but did not have that extra plow on it. Oh and my slice backhand was also not getting any bite or keeping low trajectory. It was popping up and floating.

Usually when I go for an aggressive slice backhand, my hitting partners have a hard time picking it off the ground because it skids so low and they dump it in the net or are forced to slice it back. Today no bite, and they just pounced on it.

I'm not ready to give up on the experiment. Should I add even more weight at the 9:3? Also thought about trying 10:2 as well. Or maybe even keep the weight I have on the 9:3 right now and add a bit at the 12?

So if what I read earlier is accurate, putting it the 12 increases the swingweight without having to physically add as much weight. But 9:3 has less swingweight even if I use the same amount of lead added that I put on the 12, because of the balance? That's why I'm asking if I should add more at the 9:3?

Try the TW customisation worksheet to get a better idea on leaf placement vs. SW/balance adjustments.
Generally speaking for 1g increase, 12 o’clock >10/2 o’clock >3/9 o’clock has the most SW increase in that order. BUT… the most Twistweight increase in the reverse order.
The TW customisation worksheet will give you better idea when you play around with the numbers.

 

[MasturB]

Try the TW customisation worksheet to get a better idea on leaf placement vs. SW/balance adjustments.
Generally speaking for 1g increase, 12 o’clock >10/2 o’clock >3/9 o’clock has the most SW increase in that order. BUT… the most Twistweight increase in the reverse order.
The TW customisation worksheet will give you better idea when you play around with the numbers.

Interesting. So more twistweight = less moving of the frame when hitting through the ball.

Yet I felt at least on my 1HBH I had much less plow and ease of power when I removed from the 12 and moved the lead to 9:3. It was very pronounced like I said, on my slice backhand. I use more of a Federer/Dimi slice swing path, and boy were the balls just floating in the air and getting high, rather than the usual tight low line drive skidding off the court slices I had been getting when at the 12.

Debating on whether to cut more strips and add it on top of the 4 at the 9:3 I already have, or remove those, and cut longer strips and replace them on the 9:3

 

[esm]

Interesting. So more twistweight = less moving of the frame when hitting through the ball.

Yet I felt at least on my 1HBH I had much less plow and ease of power when I removed from the 12 and moved the lead to 9:3. It was very pronounced like I said, on my slice backhand. I use more of a Federer/Dimi slice swing path, and boy were the balls just floating in the air and getting high, rather than the usual tight low line drive skidding off the court slices I had been getting when at the 12.

Debating on whether to cut more strips and add it on top of the 4 at the 9:3 I already have, or remove those, and cut longer strips and replace them on the 9:3

lol - it is a nice problem to have.... and good to have options.
give both a try and see if you can feel any difference/improvement.
properly a good idea to measure the specs if you are able to.

 

[redvic]

Le dot

 

[Phyneas123]

If you want to add a lot of weight, say at 3 and 9, is there any advantage to using the method Sampras used where you taper the mass upwards with the longest strip on the bottom, second longest ontop of that, third longest ontop of that and so forth? The other option would just be to layer several strips of lead tape which are all the same length ontop of each other.

 

[veelium]

If you want to add a lot of weight, say at 3 and 9, is there any advantage to using the method Sampras used where you taper the mass upwards with the longest strip on the bottom, second longest ontop of that, third longest ontop of that and so forth? The other option would just be to layer several strips of lead tape which are all the same length ontop of each other.

Easier to take off individual layers. If you do all same length they kinda merge together.

 

[Phyneas123]

Easier to take off individual layers. If you do all same length they kinda merge together.

I'd never thought of that, really interesting and quite true, I've had that problem before where I wasn't even sure if I had put the right number on on one side because they were all the same length and smushed together. Makes sense

 

[tennisbike]

Yet I felt at least on my 1HBH I had much less plow and ease of power when I removed from the 12 and moved the lead to 9:3. It was very pronounced like I said, on my slice backhand. I use more of a Federer/Dimi slice swing path, and boy were the balls just floating in the air and getting high, rather than the usual tight low line drive skidding off the court slices I had been getting when at the 12.

If you like the "plow" for the 12 o'clock tape, then keep it. Experiment with adding a coil, nickel on each side on the grip above your hand position. If you use overgrip, just put them under the grip. I know it looks weird and you will be "famous" among your hitting buddies.
Each mod adding a couple of nickels. (nearly all my sticks have this mod to speed up the strokes)
And you might find yourself adding more. Tell us how that feels.

 

[anfield]

Does anyone have any strong opinions about putting lead under the bumper vs inside the frame? I have about 1.5g at 12 and 1g at 3&9 under the bumper and grommets. It feels more integrated into the frame. I do some fine tuning with inside the frame but I can really feel the difference. Maybe the lead that's in the hoop absorbs a bit of shock? We know different paints can make a frame feel different, like the rubber matte that was on the PS97 absorbed a bit, so lead tape on the paint must change the feel a bit?

 

[movdqa]

Does anyone have any strong opinions about putting lead under the bumper vs inside the frame? I have about 1.5g at 12 and 1g at 3&9 under the bumper and grommets. It feels more integrated into the frame. I do some fine tuning with inside the frame but I can really feel the difference. Maybe the lead that's in the hoop absorbs a bit of shock? We know different paints can make a frame feel different, like the rubber matte that was on the PS97 absorbed a bit, so lead tape on the paint must change the feel a bit?

Inside the frame for experimentation. Under the bumper when you have it right.