Toroline

Anyone tried O-Toro at lower tensions and how did you like it? Testing some poly setups for winter/cold weather and deciding between O-Toro Orange at 5 lbs lower than my normal setup v.s. this new Toroline poly that's supposed to be super soft without sacrificing spin.
 
fieryoOo said:
Anyone tried O-Toro at lower tensions and how did you like it? Testing some poly setups for winter/cold weather and deciding between O-Toro Orange at 5 lbs lower than my normal setup v.s. this new Toroline poly that's supposed to be super soft without sacrificing spin.
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Yes! I play at around 40s on mine and love it
 
Trying O Toro at 48 lb in 23 Vcore 95, leather, lead 3&9..

Coming from Hyper G reg at 48..

First impression, a little stiff initially but it softens up.. vs hyper G.. more spin, more power and more control... I like it so far.

We'll see how long it lasts..
 
Late to the party — got my hands on o-toro as a possible sub for Strike. Strung it up with my usual multi; mistake number one, this thing just shredded my multi during stringing, and almost positive that the stringbed will get locked pretty quickly. Having said that, it was quite suprising. I had my apprehensions with green strings because I can't stand Hyper-G. It feels nothing at all like Strike, I'd say closer to something like Razor Soft, a little more comfortable. I would rather test this in a poly/poly setup. Does anyone have their recco poly/poly with o-toro? (playing with the Blade V8)
 
@Znak - Regarding O-Toro vs Hyper-G, other than both of them being products of Zons Industrial and having that hideous Nuclear Waste Green color (though OT is available in Orange at TW, and apparently White is also on the way), they're markedly different in playability. OT is much softer, more supple, higher peak resilience, much more permanently slick and dare I say gut-like in its rebound response. You can definitely tell it's a "next evolution" type of co-poly – as it should be, being roughly a decade newer.

As for the best setup for O-Toro, I would test it full bed for starters, to really see what you're dealing with, and try the other colors at the same tension if you can (Orange will be slightly more firm and offer slightly less "give" than Green; not sure how White will fair, as I haven't tried it yet). Then dial in tension on your preferred color. Then, if you feel certain playability components are still missing, perhaps introduce a different cross. Examples: If you want to keep firmness in the same ballpark but want a bit more control and tension maintenance, I'd cross with Ghostwire or similar. For a bit more firm bed and lower power, something like MSV Co-Focus or Restring Sync would probably fit the bill pretty well.

Hope that helps.
 
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Due to some holiday sales picked up some Toroline Strings.
I usually play with 4G.
Started with Caviar and it seemed more lively, little more launch angle than 4G. But seemed to keep tension almost as good as 4G.
Have been playing with Wasabi the past few weeks and am pretty happy about the feel compared to 4G and seems to keep the tension too.
I have a set of O-toro and wonder how you gusy think this would compare to the other two?

Which of the 3 do you think has the best tension maintenance?
 
I thought these strings were all social media hype but I tried O-Toro and wow it holds snapback longer and is slower to notch than any string I've tried so far. Quite a soft feel if you like that in a poly. Average tension maintenance.
 
eric42 said:
I thought these strings were all social media hype but I tried O-Toro and wow it holds snapback longer and is slower to notch than any string I've tried so far. Quite a soft feel if you like that in a poly. Average tension maintenance.
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Indeed. It's more than just unicorns and fairy dust. The level of suppleness, plus the grip and slickness, make it a fairly unique combination.

I have my main 4.0 client playing it right now full bed in his G360+ Rad MP's at 48/46 lockout (so ~46/44 eCP) and he's enjoying it. Much longer lasting snapback and less notching than anything we've tried previously, including Atomos and Pure Rush. I think that contributes heavily to lower physical wear over time as well. Also, with its edges being less extremely pointed, they don't really wear down that much, if at all. This is in contrast to Pure Rush, whose edges do seem to dull over time, effecting playability more. As for tension maintenance, especially for something as soft and pliable as it is, I'd say it's better than average, but beyond tension maintenance alone, the actual playability stays fairly constant even as tension drops. And that's the better way to think about a string: "playable longevity", as opposed to just tension maintenance for the sake of it. And for that, I would give it very high marks, with a very graceful "drop-off" over time, much akin to Hyper-G / Hyper-G Soft, except more gut-like touch, rebound response, comfort and as mentioned, much better and longer-lasting snapback. Really an outstanding effort from Toroline.

And I like the fact that they're coming out with some alternative colors, so we're not stuck with Nuclear Waste Runoff Green, which is just so putrid to look at in some (most?) racquets, and often attracts the "oh boy... another Hyper-G player..." vibe. Hopefully the White color plays just as well (Orange is ever-so-slightly more firm than Green).
 
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Trip said:
@Znak - Regarding O-Toro vs Hyper-G, other than both of them being products of Zons Industrial and having that hideous Nuclear Waste Green color (though OT is available in Orange at TW, and apparently White is also on the way), they're markedly different in playability. OT is much softer, more supple, higher peak resilience, much more permanently slick and dare I say gut-like in its rebound response. You can definitely tell it's a "next evolution" type of co-poly – as it should be, being roughly a decade newer.

As for the best setup for O-Toro, I would test it full bed for starters, to really see what you're dealing with, and try the other colors at the same tension if you can (Orange will be slightly more firm and offer slightly less "give" than Green; not sure how White will fair, as I haven't tried it yet). Then dial in tension on your preferred color. Then, if you feel certain playability components are still missing, perhaps introduce a different cross. Examples: If you want to keep firmness in the same ballpark but want a bit more control and tension maintenance, I'd cross with Ghostwire or similar. For a bit more firm bed and lower power, something like MSV Co-Focus or Restring Sync would probably fit the bill pretty well.

Hope that helps.
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Seems like you have a good gauge on O-Toro. Are you able to give a comparison to Alu Power?
 
TennisManiac said:
Seems like you have a good gauge on O-Toro. Are you able to give a comparison to Alu Power?
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Fairly different animals.

Power: debatable; some would says O-Toro, hands down, but others who are used to being able to hit out with AP would say that as a result, it's actually able to deliver more applied power
Control: AP; just the more controlled string all the way around
Spin: depends; AP gets it from it's solidness and higher applied pancaking effect per unit tension; OT from longer and more slick snapback travel
Feel: personal preference, AP having that classic crisp, firm but giving-in feel; OT more supple, not quite as crisp, more plasticky/rubbery, less overtly thuddy
Playable Longevity: OT; AP's legendary initial playability notwithstanding, OT's playability will last way, way, way longer

Knowing you, TM, I highly doubt OT would even come close as a replacement to AP, even if you strung it however much higher. That said, I think it's worth a try, just to see what's possible with newer gen formulations if nothing else.

tophersuwita said:
How can you guys describe Otoro vs Grapplesnake strings like M8/Tour Mako?
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I can compare O-Toro to M8 (haven't played Mako yet).

Power: debatable; M8 is a nice medium power output, with a smooth transition from pocketing to exiting the bed, OT pockets a bit deeper and more like gut, but doesn't slingshot out quite like you think it would
Control: M8; the noticeably higher firmness level simply lends to greater control, especially for flatter hitters.
Spin: OT; at lower RHS, the gap is larger, at higher RHS (once you really get M8 snapping), the gap is much smaller, dare I say equal
Feel: personal preference; I prefer M8, as I think it has more of a solid connection to the ball that lasts longer per contact, but OT does have higher/deeper elasticity, which some might prefer
Playable Longevity: very close, OT credited for zero break-in time and long consistency, M8 more so for slightly higher durability for the hardest of hitters (a true workhorse)

------------------------------------------------------

Hope all of that helps.
 
Chatted with Toroline today regarding upcoming O-Toro colors. Per the rep (might have been Eric himself, not sure), both White and Mint are planned for a March release.

As for how each compare in terms of firmness, power and control:
- Green: softest, highest powered, least controlled
- White: a bit more firm, lower powered, more controlled than Green
- Orange: tiniest bit more firm/low-powered/controlled than White
- Mint: supposedly more "tour level", noticeably more firm/controlled than Green, a fair amount more than White or Orange
 
Does Caviar not break for anyone else? I got this before Christmas, 1.20 and I’m sure the strings are dead but I haven’t had the time to restring and it’s still playing ok after almost 2 months. Play 3 times a week, thinking if 1.20 lasts I can try their next thinner guage. Anyone use the caviar 1.15

Anyone know the best low tension
 
Interested in what the mint o-toro might feel. To me toroline strings are all mostly muted and don’t have a super crisp string like a tour bite, tour sniper, etc.

I’ve tried caviar and it’s not quite at the level of said above strings
 
topspn said:
I may try mint O-toro. I thought green was too soft and too much pop
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I'd actually call that a good problem to have, from the standpoint that the free power level you're getting from your frame(s) is high enough that you need a certain baseline on low-enough power from your full beds of poly. For the modern game, I'd say that's mostly optimal, as it's usually much easier to add control back in by stringing higher/thicker/firmer/lower-power, than trying to add power to a frame that is under-powered for a given player.

Case-in-point: my main 4.0-ish client, who is addicted to full-bed poly (whether ultimately appropriate for him, or not), but is having a hard time finding something that can give him enough routine easy depth without having to swing out of his socks so often with his G360+ Rad MP's, even with SW maxed out to the most he can handle (mid-upper 320's SW strung), and even with thinner gauges and lowest controllable tensions in most everything softer/higher-powered that we've tried. O-Toro Green in the 40's is finally something that gives him that balance, but even just barely so. That's great, but what does all that say in general? It says that he probably shouldn't be hitting with full-bed poly, at least not in the Rad MP (rather, at least a hybrid), but more to the point, if he insists on sticking with full bed poly, he's probably going to need to move to a frame with higher innate power potential, that is, if he wants to avail the bulk of poly out there, and make that approach work in the long-run.

So, you can always look at it from both sides of the coin; thus, the reassurance that you probably have a more optimal balance between innate frame power and poly-based control — presuming, of course, that full-bed poly is your jam (which is the case for many (most?) rec players north of 3.5-ish, whether it's really the most appropriate choice for them, or not).
 
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Trip said:
I'd actually call that a good problem to have, from the standpoint that the free power level you're getting from your frame(s) is high enough that you need a certain baseline on low-enough power from your full beds of poly. For the modern game, I'd say that's mostly optimal, as it's usually much easier to add control back in by stringing higher/thicker/firmer, than trying to add power to a frame that is under-powered for a given player.

Case-in-point: my main 4.0-ish client, who is addicted to full-bed poly (whether ultimately appropriate for him, or not), but is having a hard time finding something that can give him enough routine easy depth without having to swing out of his socks too often with his G360+ Rad MP's, even with SW maxed out to the most he can handle (mid-upper 320's SW strung), and even with thinner gauges and lowest controllable tensions in most everything softer/higher-powered that we've tried. O-Toro Green in the 40's is finally something that gives him that balance, but even just barely so. Great, but what does that also say? It says that he probably shouldn't be hitting with full-bed poly, at least not in the Rad MP (rather, at least a hybrid), but more to the point, that if he insists on sticking with full bed poly, he's probably going to need to move to a frame with higher innate power potential if he wants to make an all-poly string setup work for him in the long run.

So, you can always look at it from both sides of the coin; thus O-Toro Green being a bit too powerful for you is almost a good reassurance that you're probably setup with a more optimal balance between power from the frame and control from the string bed — presuming, of course, that full-bed poly is your main preference (which is the case for many (most?) rec players north of 3.5-ish, whether it's really the most appropriate choice for them, or not). For as we know, most poly our there is varying levels of lower power than OT Green, versus the other way around. (y)
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Bigger scheme of things, good point. I’ve tried it in a radical touch pro @46lbs and carve 100 @50lbs and similar conclusions. I have to say I’m in general an admirer of more crisp strings. I will try it in an old 5G, it may be a better fit
 
topspn said:
I have to say I’m in general an admirer of more crisp strings.
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So am I, though I will say that O-Toro isn't completely devoid of crispness, in the way that certain other Toroline strings are. It's got a bit of it, at least in Green and Orange. Put another way, I've certainly played much more muted stuff (elastomer blends like Cream and Air; a good portion of Volkl's portfolio, etc.). So all in all, a decently-balanced poly, namely very high playable longevity and a more reasonable level of suppleness/elasticity at mid-tensions, for many rec players.
 
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2ndServe said:
Does Caviar not break for anyone else? I got this before Christmas, 1.20 and I’m sure the strings are dead but I haven’t had the time to restring and it’s still playing ok after almost 2 months. Play 3 times a week, thinking if 1.20 lasts I can try their next thinner guage. Anyone use the caviar 1.15

Anyone know the best low tension
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Company recommends 48-52lbs typically with their strings.

Wasabi 1.23 was the first and only poly string I've broken so far

I have a bit of a mini reel of caviar 1.15. Not a bad string. I think the thicker versions are more durable though meaning more consistent for longer.

I haven't tried their new strings yet but perhaps they're even better.
 
Tennisnerd confirmed to me that the mint color way of the new O-toro is the most crisp out of all of the colors and toroline strings so I'm highly looking forward to how much more crisp it may be in comparison to the green color. And how it stacks up to other super crisp strings.
 
hdjs94 said:
Tennisnerd confirmed to me that the mint color way of the new O-toro is the most crisp out of all of the colors and toroline strings so I'm highly looking forward to how much more crisp it may be in comparison to the green color. And how it stacks up to other super crisp strings.
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Any word on when it's being released?
 
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Just ordered mine! Increased stiffness by 15% close to Lux 4G and RPM Blast!! Exactly what I was looking for. Highly looking forward to trying this one out.
 
I just had my first go with Otoro green today, very impressed. Now I find out there’s white AND minty fresh. Going to have to buy one of each to compare at the same time!
 
FoldingChair said:
I just had my first go with Otoro green today, very impressed. Now I find out there’s white AND minty fresh. Going to have to buy one of each to compare at the same time!
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What strings do you feel it is most like?
How would you describe it?
What do you like most about it and least about it?
I just strung up my Blade with some green and will be trying tonight.
 
Robert F said:
What strings do you feel it is most like?
How would you describe it?
What do you like most about it and least about it?
I just strung up my Blade with some green and will be trying tonight.
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Your mileage may vary. Not really sure what I can compare it to if I’m being honest. Otoro is very soft, has great spin potential (even in an 18x19 pattern I’m currently trying), lower end of middle of the road power level, and the feel is smooth (nice drop shots, touch on volleys). I was really getting the racquet head speed up there with every swing and I feel like this string in this frame (305s) really rewards that. I have yet to see the playability duration over time as I only hit for 1.5 hours.

I experienced no arm pain whatsoever with this but I was told that mint is stiffer and white is softer. I am thinking about ordering some of each and may try blending the colors to see how they effect each other in the future.
 
Going to order some O-Toro White for this incoming TFight 305S playtest frame. Needless to say I think the color match should look sick, and the softness, extra pocketing, higher-than-average grip, easy snapback and balanced feel should combine to mesh well with the 305S's firmer flex, connectedness and semi-dense 18x19. At stock swing weight (low 320's), I'll probably tension in the upper 40's (lockout crank, so mid 40's constant-pull), to give the bed enough slack to compliment the stock characteristics. Should be a good combo!
 
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Trip said:
Going to order some O-Toro White for this incoming TFight 305S playtest frame. Needless to say I think the color match should look sick, and the softness, extra pocketing, higher-than-average grip, easy snapback and balanced feel should combine to mesh well with the 305S's firmer flex, connectedness and semi-dense 18x19. Will probably tension at 48/45 or 49/46 lockout crank (~46/43 or 47/44 constant-pull).
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Strung O Toro white at 48 lb and found it to be much stiffer than what I thought... ok it's very cold these days but still...

would probably lower the tension by at least 4 lb for the next set!
 
Casper777 said:
Strung O Toro white at 48 lb and found it to be much stiffer than what I thought... ok it's very cold these days but still...

would probably lower the tension by at least 4 lb for the next set!
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That's great feedback, thanks Casper. Probably saved me from blowing a set; I owe you a coffee/beer!

In my chat with Toroline, the rep indicated White is more firm than Green by roughly the same amount that Orange is, and I have Orange in-hand, which feels a few percent more firm, nothing crazy, but that's good to know. Will probably drop down into the low-mid 40's then for starters.

Thanks again!
 
Cross posting, but is it just me or is there some new magic dye that just came out? Because it seems like solinco, o-toro, and restring are all coming out with a new string with this minty colorway at almost the same time. Coincidence?
 
Trip said:
Going to order some O-Toro White for this incoming TFight 305S playtest frame. Needless to say I think the color match should look sick, and the softness, extra pocketing, higher-than-average grip, easy snapback and balanced feel should combine to mesh well with the 305S's firmer flex, connectedness and semi-dense 18x19. At stock swing weight (low 320's), I'll probably tension in the upper 40's (lockout crank, so mid 40's constant-pull), to give the bed enough slack to compliment the stock characteristics. Should be a good combo!
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Interested to hear how o toro plays in the 305s. I just got it, so I am testing what string I like best in it now. I am using Kpro now and planning on trying it out with tour sniper next for a crisper string. Than o toro. I ordered the mint before I saw the white, but I agree the white would look great with the frame.
 
Has anyone compared Was X vs Sync as a cross string? I've mainly been using sync as my cross for all my hybrid setups, but am wondering if I need to try out Was X. Interested to see which one has better feel/ less muted crispness/ power, etc.
 
Getting my O-toro tour on Monday and highly interested to see how it'll play! Wasn't too ecstatic about the new solinco string in the similar color as people were saying its soft so that ones a nogo for me.
 
Now I've tested all Toroline strings with multiple frame i can say that my favorite is Toro Toro pink.... it's a great middle ground... it has great snapback, is spin friendly yet predictable, super soft and comfortable but retains great control...

I still have to experiment with O Toro but so far I have to lower tension drastically to like it... and like all Toroline strings it loses tension quite a bit in the first few hours so...
Maybe the mint version...
 
Casper777 said:
Now I've tested all Toroline strings with multiple frame i can say that my favorite is Toro Toro pink.... it's a great middle ground... it has great snapback, is spin friendly yet predictable, super soft and comfortable but retains great control...

I still have to experiment with O Toro but so far I have to lower tension drastically to like it... and like all Toroline strings it loses tension quite a bit in the first few hours so...
Maybe the mint version...
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I'm actually quite the opposite, I think toro toro is too soft for me, I use it a lot as my crosses though
 
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