Tourna Big Hitter Silver 7 Tour

Injured Again

Professional
Question for you guys about Silver Tour 7 1.2......for big hitters 4.5.
How long does a full bed around 44-47 lbs last before the mains start moving (goes dead practically)? Yonex Pro Poly Tour lasts me 3-4max.
I'm hoping BHST 7 is better.
Thanks
With the 17 gauge S7T in my 18X19 SW104, I get on average about 10-12 very good and even hours of playability. The strings start moving probably around the 8-10 hour mark but it doesn't seem to affect ball trajectory, power, nor spin capability even though the strings are significantly notched at that time. The string does go dead in the last hour before the strings break, which would be somewhere around 13 hours but I always cut them out before then.

I've heard from a couple of people who I strung S7T for them to try, that it doesn't last as long in a more open stringbed. My SW104 has a pretty dense stringbed so string movement is limited.

I've never used Pro Poly Tour, but Hyper-G 1.20 is about ten hours before breaking for me.
 

Tmano

Professional
With the 17 gauge S7T in my 18X19 SW104, I get on average about 10-12 very good and even hours of playability. The strings start moving probably around the 8-10 hour mark but it doesn't seem to affect ball trajectory, power, nor spin capability even though the strings are significantly notched at that time. The string does go dead in the last hour before the strings break, which would be somewhere around 13 hours but I always cut them out before then.

I've heard from a couple of people who I strung S7T for them to try, that it doesn't last as long in a more open stringbed. My SW104 has a pretty dense stringbed so string movement is limited.

I've never used Pro Poly Tour, but Hyper-G 1.20 is about ten hours before breaking for me.
Thank you!
I play with the ezone dr 98 which is a 16x19. I'm not a string breaker at all. The string just start moving all over and after a little goes dead.
I guess i need to give a ST7 a try. :)
 

cd3768

New User
Can someone quickly summarize (pros and cons) the string? There’s over 200 posts haha
Also, I have a set (I believe 17g) that I’m planning to put in my Head G360 Speed Pro, which is an 18x20, so I’m wondering the tension I should string it at. I’m gonna be using my friend’s Prince Neos 1000 (crank).


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blai212

Semi-Pro
For the second time, I've purchased a reel of of Silver 7 Tour 17 and it was the last reel in stock. I feel like I should get some prize, or go out and buy a lottery ticket or something...

A question: Has anyone strung the 17 gauge S7T around 40 pounds or lower? If so, in which racquet and what did you think of it? I have a request from someone to try that, but don't want this person to have a funky experience if it doesn't work well at those tensions.
I have s7t 17g mains/SPPP 17g crosses strung at 40 lbs on my VCP 100 and it works splendid. I might go up a few lbs if that person is using a bigger sized frame because vcp 100 behaves like a 97/98” frame. s7t/SPPP is definitely the way to go. Snapback is not that great in full bed s7t. I would do 17L crosses for best playability/spin potential at the slight cost of durability. I am a 4.5 and I also get about 10 hours out of s7t...usually it starts to feel ****ty around 10 hr mark so i jus cut it out and restring. I hate subjecting myself to ****ty feeling strings.


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Question for you guys about Silver Tour 7 1.2......for big hitters 4.5.
How long does a full bed around 44-47 lbs last before the mains start moving (goes dead practically)? Yonex Pro Poly Tour lasts me 3-4max.
I'm hoping BHST 7 is better.
Thanks
I use them 3-4 match sets and then demote to practice. Average about 7-8h for the 17 gauge/1.25 until they snap. They start to move around the 5-6h mark when hitting a lot of incoming spin. Playability is perfect until they snap for me, even once they move around a little bit. They seem thinner than most 17 gauge and about 15-20% of string jobs ended up breaking on a high hit on the string bed, which is concerning, but my fault.
 

Injured Again

Professional
Can someone quickly summarize (pros and cons) the string? There’s over 200 posts haha
Also, I have a set (I believe 17g) that I’m planning to put in my Head G360 Speed Pro, which is an 18x20, so I’m wondering the tension I should string it at. I’m gonna be using my friend’s Prince Neos 1000 (crank).
This string became my go-to when I tested it for Tennis Warehouse.

It is not the highest spin capability string but it is very close.
It is not the most powerful poly string but it is very close.
It is not the most comfortable poly string but it is on the more comfortable than average side.
It has an initially soft feel on contact but firms up and is crisp when swinging harder.
Tennis Warehouse tested the 16 gauge version and found it to be the best string at tension maintenance.
It is much more notch resistant than an average poly string, and playability seems relatively unchanged even after notching begins.
It seems to retain its playing characteristics over a fairly wide range of stringing tensions.
It lasts a long time - on average 25-50% longer than other poly strings I've used.
It's $100 a reel.

For me, there were not many downsides. I initially had a problem with the high power levels when trying to volley hard hit groundstrokes from below knee level. I am fixing that by working to correct a lifelong technique issue on the volley that has me using a shorter stroke.

I did an extended demo of the v7 Blade 98 18X20 and I initially put this string in at 46 pounds on a lockout (crank) stringer. That was at the upper end of what I prefer. It would have been better at 44 pounds. I also string this in my Blade SW104, 18X19 pattern using a proportional stringing method which probably translates to around 47-48 pounds if I used the same tension on every string.
 

Jouke

Semi-Pro
Still dont know what to think of this string. Sort of weird love hate with it. Gave it to a buddy of mine, strung at 20/19 kg in the angell k7 lime , constant pull. And he thought it was the harshest racket string combination he had ever played. (And he normally plays a stiffer head racket 18/20 strung much higher, but different string).
 

cd3768

New User
This string became my go-to when I tested it for Tennis Warehouse.

It is not the highest spin capability string but it is very close.
It is not the most powerful poly string but it is very close.
It is not the most comfortable poly string but it is on the more comfortable than average side.
It has an initially soft feel on contact but firms up and is crisp when swinging harder.
Tennis Warehouse tested the 16 gauge version and found it to be the best string at tension maintenance.
It is much more notch resistant than an average poly string, and playability seems relatively unchanged even after notching begins.
It seems to retain its playing characteristics over a fairly wide range of stringing tensions.
It lasts a long time - on average 25-50% longer than other poly strings I've used.
It's $100 a reel.

For me, there were not many downsides. I initially had a problem with the high power levels when trying to volley hard hit groundstrokes from below knee level. I am fixing that by working to correct a lifelong technique issue on the volley that has me using a shorter stroke.

I did an extended demo of the v7 Blade 98 18X20 and I initially put this string in at 46 pounds on a lockout (crank) stringer. That was at the upper end of what I prefer. It would have been better at 44 pounds. I also string this in my Blade SW104, 18X19 pattern using a proportional stringing method which probably translates to around 47-48 pounds if I used the same tension on every string.
Ah thank you! I’ll take this into consideration when I get the chance to string my racquet :)


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Allcourtguy

Semi-Pro
Bought a reel of this in 17g and am really disappointed that the string broke on the stringer during 2 of the first 3 stringings. It broke at a grommet, I believe the same one each time. This is ridiculous. I have strung my racquets hundreds of times and this has never happened to me before.

i know some others have had this issue also. This does not speak well for Tourna. Has anyone addressed this problem with TW yet?
 

Jouke

Semi-Pro
Bought a reel of this in 17g and am really disappointed that the string broke on the stringer during 2 of the first 3 stringings. It broke at a grommet, I believe the same one each time. This is ridiculous. I have strung my racquets hundreds of times and this has never happened to me before.

i know some others have had this issue also. This does not speak well for Tourna. Has anyone addressed this problem with TW yet?
Sounds like its your racket/grommet. Especially if its on the same grommet each time. I have no problems stringing this.
 
Sounds like its your racket/grommet. Especially if its on the same grommet each time. I have no problems stringing this.
Definitely not the racquet or the grommets.
I have the same problem just not during stringing, but on slight mishits toward the top of the hoop.
I've played with dozens of strings in the same racquets and none had this repeated problem.
There is a thread dedicated to this problem.
 
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blai212

Semi-Pro
Definitely not the racquet or the grommets.
I have the same problem just not during stringing, but on slight mishits toward the top of the hoops.
I've played with dozens of strings in the same racquets and none had this repeated problems.
There is a thread dedicated to this problem.
what kind of stringing machine are u people using? On my relatively new gamma progression ii els (electronic) i have strung tourna silver 7 tour countless times over the past 6+ months and zero problems. I believe this is the go to string for @Injured Again @USPTARF97 and they have zero problems stringing. It could be the grommets or clamps pinching the string too hard somewhere or maybe just a bad batch of string but these strings seem pretty high quality to me.


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blai212

Semi-Pro
Still dont know what to think of this string. Sort of weird love hate with it. Gave it to a buddy of mine, strung at 20/19 kg in the angell k7 lime , constant pull. And he thought it was the harshest racket string combination he had ever played. (And he normally plays a stiffer head racket 18/20 strung much higher, but different string).
was this 16 or 17g? 16 is way more harsh...


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what kind of stringing machine are u people using? On my relatively new gamma progression ii els (electronic) i have strung tourna silver 7 tour countless times over the past 6+ months and zero problems. I believe this is the go to string for @Injured Again @USPTARF97 and they have zero problems stringing. It could be the grommets or clamps pinching the string too hard somewhere or maybe just a bad batch of string but these strings seem pretty high quality to me.
17 gauge (1.25mm)
Wilson Baiardo.
Never broke during stringing, but at the top of the hoop during play.
Strings are great, just annoying that they tend to break randomly after 2-3h of hitting.
About 25% of string jobs with BHS7T had this problem for me.
I've used dozens of strings and hundreds of string jobs in these racquets and have not experienced an issue like this.

Check the thread. Several people are experiencing this issue.
 

Injured Again

Professional
I've strung up close to 30 stringjobs with 17 gauge S7T and have not experience breakage during stringing nor during bad mis-hits during play, and I mis-hit a lot and swing pretty hard at the ball as well. I've strung the 17 gauge as high as 53 pounds with no problems, and don't do anything special in handling the string. I've also mis-hit on a practically 100% effort overhead and caught the ball right up near the tip. It jarred my arm so bad it went tingly for about a minute but the string did not shear, and that was with string in the racquet for nearly 10 hours so pretty close to end of life.

It sounds like some pretty experienced stringers ran into problems so I'm fairly certain it's not a grommet issue. I'm leaning towards a bad batch of string.

For those that did have the string break during stringing, could you see anything unusual where the string actually snapped? Did the string neck down right around the point where it broke, or did you see any kind of discontinuity inside the string itself?
 
For those that did have the string break during stringing, could you see anything unusual where the string actually snapped? Did the string neck down right around the point where it broke, or did you see any kind of discontinuity inside the string itself?
No sheering.
Just a clean break like someone cut it with scissors.
Same spot, in four different Pure Aero Tours, the center main around the top. I'll take a pic next time.
Even tried a different stringer than my usual stringer, and it also happened with a string job they did.
Only commonality in my situation is the player, red clay and the place where they break :)
 
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Injured Again

Professional
No sheering.
Just a clean break like someone cut it with scissors.
Same spot, in four different Pure Aero Tours, the center main around the top. I'll take a pic next time.
Even tried a different stringer than my usual stringer, and it also happened with a string job they did.
Only commonality in my situation is the player and the place where they break :)
That is just weird. Four different racquets and all in the same place? Blows out of the water the theories that it's a grommet issue, or a string defect issue. Hard to imagine that four separate racquets would all have a grommet defect at the same time and same place, or that a string defect would just happen to line up at that exact location four times in a row.

Just a thought, but does the Pure Aero Tour have a split in the grommet strip at the very top?
 
That is just weird. Four different racquets and all in the same place? Blows out of the water the theories that it's a grommet issue, or a string defect issue. Hard to imagine that four separate racquets would all have a grommet defect at the same time and same place, or that a string defect would just happen to line up at that exact location four times in a row.

Just a thought, but does the Pure Aero Tour have a split in the grommet strip at the very top?
And to make it more weird, the strings came from different reels, so if it's a defect then it would have to be in both reels.
I forgot to mention I also play on red clay which does not do the string any favors in terms of durability.
My theory is that this string in 17g is simply less durable that other 17g/16Ls that I played with and behaves more like an 18/19g at the top of the hoop after a couple hours.
I do not play with 18g/19g strings because of the frequent breaks.
There is a lot of stress on the string on a mishit or a serve closer to the top.
There is a split on the top grommet on the Pure Aero Tour, but it's like at 11 and 1 o'clock so it's not near the break point.

 

Injured Again

Professional
And to make it more weird, the strings came from different reels, so if it's a defect then it would have to be in both reels.
I forgot to mention I also play on red clay which does not do the string any favors in terms of durability.
My theory is that this string in 17g is simply less durable that other 17g/16Ls that I played with and behaves more like an 18/19g at the top of the hoop after a couple hours.
I do not play with 18g/19g strings because of the frequent breaks.
There is a lot of stress on the string on a mishit or a serve closer to the top.
There is a split on the top grommet on the Pure Aero Tour, but it's like at 11 and 1 o'clock so it's not near the break point.

But then again, there have been a bunch of users of this string in 17 gauge that haven't experienced any problems, myself included. I can't see playing on clay to have any effect when the racquet is being strung, and to have it happen from two separate reels of the string adds to the mystery.

It might just be a case where the tennis deities have decided this string isn't for you for some unknowable reason. I personally haven't found a better combination of durability, comfort, spin capability, and tension maintenance, with the price being the cherry on top, but there are lots of other really good strings out there. If I ran into the same problems you did, I'm pretty sure I'd switch away and not try it again also.
 
I can't see playing on clay to have any effect when the racquet is being strung, and to have it happen from two separate reels of the string adds to the mystery.
I'm not the guy with the breakage problem during stringing.
For me the string breaks around the top during play.
Clay does affect all strings' durability as it acts as a sand paper.
25% of the BHS7T string jobs broke around the top by the grommet on a hard hit after 2-3h of play, the rest 75% played normally 8-10h and broke in the middle sweet spot (like they should).
I love the string and will probably continue using it as my go to string despite this annoyance.
 
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Allcourtguy

Semi-Pro
I am using a 2 year old Gamma Progression II lock out. String also broke near the top center mains, also a clean break. I got this reel from TW Europe as I am in Portugal. The second time it broke I was weaving the last cross. Very frustating! Would really like to give this string a shot.
 
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ludde

Rookie
At Saturday I had the same problem. 17g broke during stringing by the third main in a Signum Pro S6700. I am a beginner with stringing and have done only around 30 racquets, so I thought it was my fault.... but never break a string before during the stringing process.

I'm not sure, but I mean this string is especially prone to kinking. I do not like to use the diabolo with this string during tension process.
 

ron schaap

Professional
And to make it more weird, the strings came from different reels, so if it's a defect then it would have to be in both reels.
I forgot to mention I also play on red clay which does not do the string any favors in terms of durability.
My theory is that this string in 17g is simply less durable that other 17g/16Ls that I played with and behaves more like an 18/19g at the top of the hoop after a couple hours.
I do not play with 18g/19g strings because of the frequent breaks.
There is a lot of stress on the string on a mishit or a serve closer to the top.
There is a split on the top grommet on the Pure Aero Tour, but it's like at 11 and 1 o'clock so it's not near the break point.

Maybe the strings were clamped too tight during stringing or it was simply strung too tight.
I am using a 2 year old Gamma Progression II lock out. String also broke near the top center mains, also a clean break. I got this reel from TW Europe as I am in Portugal. The second time it broke I was weaving the last cross. Very frustating! Would really like to give this string a shot.
Maybe you strung the last cross too tight which is sometimes done to prevent tension drop at tie off?
 

Allcourtguy

Semi-Pro
Ron Schapp said: Maybe you strung the last cross too tight which is sometimes done to prevent tension drop at tie off?

If only it was something like that. No, I was just weaving the last cross and a main broke...
 

Lefty5

Hall of Fame
I've strung probably 30 racquets with Silver7 with a diablo head and not diamond dusted clamps.... No issues. However, pretty much everybody is liking it... a lot, especially at that price.
 

blai212

Semi-Pro
a good alternative to silver 7 tour is volkl cyclone tour... ONLY USE 1.30mm 16g as everything else is garbage as @g4driver truthfully states from his years of experience. I recently converted to this string and am in love
tourna s7t is soft but can get quite harsh on mishit/shank... my arm/shoulder started to hurt (i am 4.5 aggressive baseline basher) but had no problems with VCT 1.30mm albeit this is reporting after just one 2hr 4.0 level doubles outing.


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a good alternative to silver 7 tour is volkl cyclone tour... ONLY USE 1.30mm 16g as everything else is garbage as @g4driver truthfully states from his years of experience. I recently converted to this string and am in love
tourna s7t is soft but can get quite harsh on mishit/shank... my arm/shoulder started to hurt (i am 4.5 aggressive baseline basher) but had no problems with VCT 1.30mm albeit this is reporting after just one 2hr 4.0 level doubles outing.
Volkl Cyclone Tour 1.30mm feels pretty damn nice & soft plus it generates tons of spin. The only major issue, besides the ridiculous price in Europe, is that the tension drop off is astounding. You can literally see the launch angle increase every 30' of hitting. I personally found that the difference between my 6h used practice racquet and a fresh one to be too big.
 

blai212

Semi-Pro
@g4driver i recently strung up full bed VCT 16g and the racquet felt SO MUCH HEAVIER than my other sticks that have gut/poly hybrid or my previous string job with tourna s7t 17g...even the tourna s7t 16g didnt make the racquet feel significantly heavier, is this normal?


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Jouke

Semi-Pro
@g4driver i recently strung up full bed VCT 16g and the racquet felt SO MUCH HEAVIER than my other sticks that have gut/poly hybrid or my previous string job with tourna s7t 17g...even the tourna s7t 16g didnt make the racquet feel significantly heavier, is this normal?


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Yes, tourna silver 7 tour is so light it reduces the swingweight by a lot
 

aehjmeyer

New User
@g4driver i recently strung up full bed VCT 16g and the racquet felt SO MUCH HEAVIER than my other sticks that have gut/poly hybrid or my previous string job with tourna s7t 17g...even the tourna s7t 16g didnt make the racquet feel significantly heavier, is this normal?


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For me, S7T 1.30 mm weighed in at 2g less than Black Knight 1.28 mm in my ASL2.
 
For those that played with both S7T 16 gauge / 1.30mm and S7T 17 gauge / 1.25mm - do you notice less spin with the 16 gauge?

In quest for better durability, I'm comparing them side by side and the biggest difference seems to be the stiffness and the spin.
I feel the balls visually appear to have less spin and more of an "arc" type dip with the 1.30 vs. a sharp dip with the 1.25...The difference is quite drastic and especially noticeable on kick serve.
Has anyone else experienced this?
 

Injured Again

Professional
For those that played with both S7T 16 gauge / 1.30mm and S7T 17 gauge / 1.25mm - do you notice less spin with the 16 gauge?

In quest for better durability, I'm comparing them side by side and the biggest difference seems to be the stiffness and the spin.
I feel the balls visually appear to have less spin and more of an "arc" type dip with the 1.30 vs. a sharp dip with the 1.25...The difference is quite drastic and especially noticeable on kick serve.
Has anyone else experienced this?
Are you talking durability meaning more resistance to notching through, more resistance to shear-type breaks near the frame on mis-hits, or changes in playability of the string as the material itself degrades?

16 gauge mains and 17 gauge crosses a possibility?
 

blai212

Semi-Pro
17L SPPP cross is the answer. tourna s7t full bed is not so great :-/ sharp edged crosses create too much friction for smooth effortless snapback of mains. 16g mains would still provide increased durability but string bed would be softer and better spin potential


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Are you talking durability meaning more resistance to notching through, more resistance to shear-type breaks near the frame on mis-hits, or changes in playability of the string as the material itself degrades?

16 gauge mains and 17 gauge crosses a possibility?
Trying to sort out the mis-hit type quick breaks with the BHS7T 17 gauge so I read your mind... trying BHS7T 16 gauge mains and BHS7T 17 gauge crosses.
Feels too much like the 16 gauge BHS7T full bed or a 16L Tour Bite full bed.
Not loving it at all compared to the BHS7T 17 gauge / 1.25mm.
 

tpro2000

Rookie
Trying to sort out the mis-hit type quick breaks with the BHS7T 17 gauge so I read your mind... trying BHS7T 16 gauge mains and BHS7T 17 gauge crosses.
Feels too much like the 16 gauge BHS7T full bed or a 16L Tour Bite full bed.
Not loving it at all compared to the BHS7T 17 gauge / 1.25mm.
I'm sure I missed some posts, but you're having the string break fairly quickly with the 17g?
 

Injured Again

Professional
Trying to sort out the mis-hit type quick breaks with the BHS7T 17 gauge so I read your mind... trying BHS7T 16 gauge mains and BHS7T 17 gauge crosses.
Feels too much like the 16 gauge BHS7T full bed or a 16L Tour Bite full bed.
Not loving it at all compared to the BHS7T 17 gauge / 1.25mm.
It is kind of concerning that quite a few people have reported S7T breaking when being strung or shearing on a mis-hit. It seems to be some sort of quality control issue where some batches are just more brittle than others. I just bought a reel from Tennis Warehouse and I cut a section of it and pulled 75 pounds tension. It didn't break even when I tapped on it lightly with a hammer (I didn't hit it hard because I didn't want to mess up my stringer) so I'm hoping I got a good reel.

I mis-hit a fair amount and I've never had S7T break on me, even when I've swung hard at an overhead and caught the ball way up near the tip. It jarred my arm so hard it went tingly for a moment. A few years ago, I got a bad reel of Diadem Solstice Power that kept breaking on me, always a shear break on a main at the top of the racquet, and I fixed it by tubing the center ten mains. That was a lot of work but it did help - I don't think a string broke for the rest of that reel. I think the S7T is a good string but I'm not sure it's that good that it's worth the effort of using tube every string job. I only did it with the Solstice Power because I was cheap back in the day trying to put two kids simultaneously through college, and the reel was almost twice the cost of S7T.

And why is it that a shear break is always on a main and not on a cross? I mis-hit near the sides of the frame more than I mis-hit near the top of the frame.

EDIT: Just wanted to add that I have no playing experience with 16 gauge S7T. I've strung it up for others and it felt just moderately stiffer when tensioning but I never hit with it.
 
I'm sure I missed some posts, but you're having the string break fairly quickly with the 17g?
It is kind of concerning that quite a few people have reported S7T breaking when being strung or shearing on a mis-hit. It seems to be some sort of quality control issue where some batches are just more brittle than others. I just bought a reel from Tennis Warehouse and I cut a section of it and pulled 75 pounds tension. It didn't break even when I tapped on it lightly with a hammer (I didn't hit it hard because I didn't want to mess up my stringer) so I'm hoping I got a good reel.

I mis-hit a fair amount and I've never had S7T break on me, even when I've swung hard at an overhead and caught the ball way up near the tip. It jarred my arm so hard it went tingly for a moment. A few years ago, I got a bad reel of Diadem Solstice Power that kept breaking on me, always a shear break on a main at the top of the racquet, and I fixed it by tubing the center ten mains. That was a lot of work but it did help - I don't think a string broke for the rest of that reel. I think the S7T is a good string but I'm not sure it's that good that it's worth the effort of using tube every string job. I only did it with the Solstice Power because I was cheap back in the day trying to put two kids simultaneously through college, and the reel was almost twice the cost of S7T.

And why is it that a shear break is always on a main and not on a cross? I mis-hit near the sides of the frame more than I mis-hit near the top of the frame.

EDIT: Just wanted to add that I have no playing experience with 16 gauge S7T. I've strung it up for others and it felt just moderately stiffer when tensioning but I never hit with it.

It's not that bad, but yes it breaks on mis-hits or hard flat serves near top of frame for me after 3-6h kinda randomly in that window. Most of the time I get 8-10h out of them and they break in the middle, as they should.
Never broke during stringing. 55lbs tension.
I guess my fault for mis-hitting but never had this with other strings.
17 feels just soooo much better than even 16/17 hybrid or 16 full bed. It's crazy, almost like a different string.
The spin difference is quite clear between the gauges judging side by side on the arc of the ball and kick serves.
I'll stick to 17 I think and focus more on hitting sweet spot and live with the breaks till I order a new reel.
 

tpro2000

Rookie
It is kind of concerning that quite a few people have reported S7T breaking when being strung or shearing on a mis-hit. It seems to be some sort of quality control issue where some batches are just more brittle than others. I just bought a reel from Tennis Warehouse and I cut a section of it and pulled 75 pounds tension. It didn't break even when I tapped on it lightly with a hammer (I didn't hit it hard because I didn't want to mess up my stringer) so I'm hoping I got a good reel.

I mis-hit a fair amount and I've never had S7T break on me, even when I've swung hard at an overhead and caught the ball way up near the tip. It jarred my arm so hard it went tingly for a moment. A few years ago, I got a bad reel of Diadem Solstice Power that kept breaking on me, always a shear break on a main at the top of the racquet, and I fixed it by tubing the center ten mains. That was a lot of work but it did help - I don't think a string broke for the rest of that reel. I think the S7T is a good string but I'm not sure it's that good that it's worth the effort of using tube every string job. I only did it with the Solstice Power because I was cheap back in the day trying to put two kids simultaneously through college, and the reel was almost twice the cost of S7T.

And why is it that a shear break is always on a main and not on a cross? I mis-hit near the sides of the frame more than I mis-hit near the top of the frame.

EDIT: Just wanted to add that I have no playing experience with 16 gauge S7T. I've strung it up for others and it felt just moderately stiffer when tensioning but I never hit with it.
Interesting. I'm on my second reel, and have done about 25 jobs with it (for myself and customers) and never it break once on the stringer. I'm in the mid 40s and have gone as high as 62..

I've never broke it off a mis hit either, at the top or the side. I'm definitely not a perfect ball striker but maybe I'm more in the center than I give myself credit for, .

I have seen strings sheer at the top and the sides from too many errant shots. Even a kid who uses an 18x20 breaks on the cross near the side of the frame from never watching the ball. Lol.

If it gets bad, I'll usually check the bumped, tube if need be, or suggest different/thicker strings. I had to tube a Wilson Juice 100s (16x15) for a guy using VS Touch 16 @ 62# because he always would snap it at the top. Since tubbing it in 4 places he hasn't prematurely snapped (so far).

The feel of 17g strings (only my opinion), sided specifically, have ALWAYS felt better when I hit. And now using S7T which feels 'lighter' and 'thinner', even other 17s don't feel as good. Looks like I'm screwed haha!

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cd3768

New User
I’ve got the 17g set and just going through the thread again, I’m not sure which racquet to put it in. I’ve got the Pro and MP of the Head G360 Speed line. (18x20, 16x19) Some were saying to put S7T in a powerful frame and some were saying that the string was powerful.
 

Injured Again

Professional
I’ve got the 17g set and just going through the thread again, I’m not sure which racquet to put it in. I’ve got the Pro and MP of the Head G360 Speed line. (18x20, 16x19) Some were saying to put S7T in a powerful frame and some were saying that the string was powerful.
In my experience, S7T is on the more powerful end of the poly spectrum. Whether that works for you in a powerful racquet depends on how you play more than anything else. I play with a fairly powerful racquet (Blade SW104) and the S7T works great in it. The denser, 18X19 pattern helps the 17 gauge string last longer, but the string is also thin enough to get very good grip on the ball. The good comfort level helps offset the stiffer frame. The putaway power on flatter shots is addictive.

I've also used 17 gauge S7T in some very low powered, flexible racquets like some vintage frames that I have. In those, the added pop helps offset the smaller head size, but also the little bit of extra give it has seems to work with the extra dwell time that a flexible frame provides.

It's a pretty versatile string in my experience.
 

cd3768

New User
In my experience, S7T is on the more powerful end of the poly spectrum. Whether that works for you in a powerful racquet depends on how you play more than anything else. I play with a fairly powerful racquet (Blade SW104) and the S7T works great in it. The denser, 18X19 pattern helps the 17 gauge string last longer, but the string is also thin enough to get very good grip on the ball. The good comfort level helps offset the stiffer frame. The putaway power on flatter shots is addictive.

I've also used 17 gauge S7T in some very low powered, flexible racquets like some vintage frames that I have. In those, the added pop helps offset the smaller head size, but also the little bit of extra give it has seems to work with the extra dwell time that a flexible frame provides.

It's a pretty versatile string in my experience.
Thanks for the feedback. I think I’ll put it in the Pro.


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blai212

Semi-Pro
I’ve got the 17g set and just going through the thread again, I’m not sure which racquet to put it in. I’ve got the Pro and MP of the Head G360 Speed line. (18x20, 16x19) Some were saying to put S7T in a powerful frame and some were saying that the string was powerful.
use it as the mains on both racquets with a cheap high quality round poly like SPPP


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Injured Again

Professional
Had my first shear break with Silver 7 Tour today. On a running forehand where I was trying to hit a hard passing shot but got caught out by a bit more sidespin than I thought. I caught the ball high on the stringbed.



Here's a closeup of the broken string that was still in the frame. I could get a better view of the cross section rather than the short piece you can see in the picture above:



I'm not a materials expert but it doesn't look like any issues with structural weaknesses like a void in the string.

Will be restringing with S7T from a different, new reel.
 

blai212

Semi-Pro
Had my first shear break with Silver 7 Tour today. On a running forehand where I was trying to hit a hard passing shot but got caught out by a bit more sidespin than I thought. I caught the ball high on the stringbed.



Here's a closeup of the broken string that was still in the frame. I could get a better view of the cross section rather than the short piece you can see in the picture above:



I'm not a materials expert but it doesn't look like any issues with structural weaknesses like a void in the string.

Will be restringing with S7T from a different, new reel.
use SPPP as cross...u wont be disappointed


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@Injured Again - A warm welcome to the BHS7T mishit break club :cool: .
It's still an amazing string and I will continue to use it. The reel is certainly not the issue as I had the same type of breaks from two different reels strung by two different stringers. Eliminate all variables right? I think it's just a material that is slightly weaker than other polys at 1.25mm, due to whatever they did for such great crispness and tension maintenance. At the same time, it does not notch too bad yet breaks on the stress points by the grommets. How many hours did you hit with those strings?
 

Dennylee60

New User
I am on my 4th set of the string and yesterday when I pulled the racquet out of my bag I found the string broke right at the grommet. The racquet is almost new and the grommet is in good shape. I just bought a reel so I will resting and try again.
 

Injured Again

Professional
use SPPP as cross...u wont be disappointed
Done. SPPP Pure 1.23 in the crosses. Same tensions as I normally use for a full bed of S7T.



Hard to tell a difference from the pictures. The SPPPP looks and feels bit thicker than the 17 gauge S7T. Weight has gone up 1 gram from a full bed of S7T.

The reel of Plasma Pure is at least ten years old!
 

Injured Again

Professional
@Injured Again - A warm welcome to the BHS7T mishit break club :cool: .
It's still an amazing string and I will continue to use it. The reel is certainly not the issue as I had the same type of breaks from two different reels strung by two different stringers. Eliminate all variables right? I think it's just a material that is slightly weaker than other polys at 1.25mm, due to whatever they did for such great crispness and tension maintenance. At the same time, it does not notch too bad yet breaks on the stress points by the grommets. How many hours did you hit with those strings?
Uhh, Thanks! :unsure:

I had six hours on those strings, and you are right that it is interesting it will break at the grommet but not at a notch. I had just hit two screaming groundstrokes right before that.

Looking at that first picture I posted, the two strings closer to the middle from the break pulled back, and its interesting to me that even on the fourth cross down, I'm hitting enough balls up that high on the stringbed to cause denting/notching. I know that with this racquet, serving with a higher contact point is beneficial because there's still excellent pop up high and I get the advantage of a bit more RHS further from my hand.

I'm pretty sure your analysis is right - it's just whatever they did to create the crispness and tension maintenance to the string. Like you, I'll also continue to use this string, at least during the winter. I haven't found any other string that gives me the confidence to swing away, the comfort to do when when it's cold, and the long lasting playability.
 
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