TRU PRO Ghostwire vs. Isospeed Cream

Which do you prefer?

  • Isospeed Cream

    Votes: 32 32.3%
  • Tier One Ghostwire

    Votes: 67 67.7%

  • Total voters
    99
All that as background to saying that the two times I strung up triax mains I snapped them in under 4 hours. They were 1.28 gauge but I often play with 1.25 multis in the mains and I rarely break them before cutting them out. I just checked my log and in both cases they were crossed with GW 1.17.

Maybe it’s a triax thing?
it was your choice to use a thinner GW cross. 1.28 Triax /1.27mm GW would have lasted longer as the 1.17 GW sawed the Triax more quickly.

Think large log and a thinner saw blade vs a thicker duller blade. That is what happens in frames with softer mains like multis, multiesters and NG. The closer you get the strings in diameter the longer they will last for softer mains and poly crosses
 
it was your choice to use a thinner GW cross. 1.28 Triax /1.27mm GW would have lasted longer as the 1.17 GW sawed the Triax more quickly.
LOL, I knew you’d write that. Thanks, and I am sure you are absolutely correct. But I also have to point out that I do routinely get 12+ hours of play out of 1.25 and 1.30 multifeel and 1.24 X-one biphase crossed with the same 1.17 GW.

I have also strung the 1.22 GW following your logic of trying to get closer in gauge and thinking it wouldn’t matter that much in the crosses, but I really could feel the difference and I like the feel of thinner strings and I’m fine with re-stringing at 12-ish hours.

All other things equal for me, triax happens to be the only main I’ve snapped quickly in forever so I thought to chime in. It was the one and only triax set I ever tried, so it’s totally possible that I just had a bad set of strings, though I don’t know how often that happens in practice.
 
BK 1.18 x GW 1.10 lasted about 6 hours of doubles. I slap brainlessly at 4.5 US League. It actually lasted just about the same as GW 19g, at least time duration was pretty negligible.
IMG-6817.jpg
 
I only wish I found this thread earlier, but I echo the sentiment here from the hall of famers.
GW 1.27 is way stiffer for me than Cream 1.28. I can tell because it aggravates my TE .
Cream is much softer but it breaks much quicker. I get 2-3 times the durability with GW. That's huge, and I love the way Cream plays.

I string my Speed Pros 22 (RA 62) with Luxi Gut 16@51 and crosses@45. Opted for GW because of its durability, and it was acceptable in this frame.
Yet when I tried it in my new React MPP 18x19 (RA 61) TE reared its ugly head. Cream crosses and a lower tension saved the day. 45 gut x 40 Cream. Also, doesn't say much for RA ratings and I hear Angell's 61 is supposed to be like a 58.

Still searching for a softer than GW but considerably more durable than Cream alternative. Would be grateful if anyone had any suggestions.
 
Also, doesn't say much for RA ratings and I hear Angell's 61 is supposed to be like a 58.
RA is measured in a specific way and can only tell how a racquet will flex through one specific line in the throat with force applied at the top. It's quite limited. It's useful for basic comparison, but there is no substitute for playing a frame and experiencing the feel for yourself.

Also as you know, strings can make a much more significant difference in how a frame feels than a few RA points.
 
Still searching for a softer than GW but considerably more durable than Cream alternative. Would be grateful if anyone had any suggestions.

@Bartobolas

I find Lux Element 1.30 to be a bit softer than Ghostwire 1.27mm and approximately feels like GW 1.22mm. My .02 is to try Lux Element 1.25mm

my .02 Stiffness: Lowest to Highest
Yonex Poly Tour Air (YPTA) < Isospeed Cream 1.28mm < MSV Swift 1.30mm < Lux Element 1.25 < Lux Element 1.30mm Ghostwire 1.22mm < Ghostwire 1.27mm

YPTA only comes in 1.25mm
Cream 1.23 and 1.28mm
Swift 1.25 and 1.30mm
Element 1.25 and 1.30mm
Ghostwire 1.22 and 1.27mm

If anyone thinks 1.25mm Element is stiffer than 1.30mm Element (like the TW database record shows), basic math says a thicker version of the same string is stiffer than the thinner string. My elbow confirms my assessment of the strings I listed above. I've hit with every one of them and stock each of those listed strings except 1.23mm Cream as it is too thin for my clients. I find Swift and Cream to be indistinguishable other than color. Multiple 4.0 and 4.5 USTA C-rated male clients didn't notice any difference when I switched Cream 1.28mm for Swift 1.30mm. I even asked after I switched crosses and not one client noticed.

Lux Element is $$$$ and best found on specials Buy 3 Get 1 Free or other sales.

https://www.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/string_reviews/ISOCREAM17review.html.

Change the comparison string to Lux Element 1.30 and then to Element 1.25mm and disregard the stiffness of 1.25mm Element. It is not as stiff as 1.30mm Element despite the TW database number.

 
@g4driver
Is it safe to assume that tension maintenance for the above strings is inversely proportional to your stiffness rating?

I I know you are asking @g4driver and I am sure he will get to you but that is what makes both these strings so unique and it is fantastic to see the advance in technology as they both hold tension very well for being soft polys. In the past soft polys were almost unusable because they quickly became rocket launchers. These strings maintain their tension very well in my opinion. They have really opened the door for older and/or less advanced players and I hardly string any full multi or full gut racquets any more unless specifically requested or the player is a beginner type player as I am able to toss one of these strings in the cross and the racquet performs better than with a full set of multi/gut.
 
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@g4driver
Is it safe to assume that tension maintenance for the above strings is inversely proportional to your stiffness rating?

For those strings listed in post #60, I think so. Some stiffer polys lose tension rapidly. RPM Blast is an example. So while RPM Blast is much stiffer than GW, it loses tension a greater rate.

Volk Cyclone Tour (VCT) 1.30mm is another string that loses tension quickly. But if you string VCT 1.30mm in the mid-50s, it drops tension and then settles in at a comfortable and playable tension for many 4.0 and 4.5 USTA C-rated males until it breaks. This forum has multiple posts from unrated or 3.0/3.5 males who can't handle the tension loss from VCT 1.30mm they see on a chart and bash the string, but I have plenty of 4.5C-rated and 4.5A (appeal down from 5.0) guys who've been using it and winning at 85% in USTA leagues for going on nine years now. I've posted their names, frames, and tension along with their USTA records as proof of their success. Thankfully, string companies offer hundreds of choices for players.

Here is a post that you might find helpful. Post #81. There is a battle between sawing the mains with a stiffer cross vs a softer cross breaking. I try to figure out what each client is doing to maximize the playability of their setup. Putting 1.10 or 1.17 GW with 1.30mm Lux Gut or VS Gut is a recipe to saw the gut quickly. By changing the GW diameter to get within .05mm of the Natural Gut mains, you will extend the life of the NG.

1.30 Lux NG Mains / 1.27 GW crosses will always outlast 1.30 Lux NG Mains and 1.10 or 1.17 GW crosses. The thinner GW crosses are the equivalent of a sharper blade sawing through the same diameter of a log compared to a thicker duller blade cutting the same log. Physics isn't subjective.

 
@Bartobolas

I find Lux Element 1.30 to be a bit softer than Ghostwire 1.27mm and approximately feels like GW 1.22mm. My .02 is to try Lux Element 1.25mm

my .02 Stiffness: Lowest to Highest
Yonex Poly Tour Air (YPTA) < Isospeed Cream 1.28mm < MSV Swift 1.30mm < Lux Element 1.25 < Lux Element 1.30mm Ghostwire 1.22mm < Ghostwire 1.27mm

YPTA only comes in 1.25mm
Cream 1.23 and 1.28mm
Swift 1.25 and 1.30mm
Element 1.25 and 1.30mm
Ghostwire 1.22 and 1.27mm

If anyone thinks 1.25mm Element is stiffer than 1.30mm Element (like the TW database record shows), basic math says a thicker version of the same string is stiffer than the thinner string. My elbow confirms my assessment of the strings I listed above. I've hit with every one of them and stock each of those listed strings except 1.23mm Cream as it is too thin for my clients. I find Swift and Cream to be indistinguishable other than color. Multiple 4.0 and 4.5 USTA C-rated male clients didn't notice any difference when I switched Cream 1.28mm for Swift 1.30mm. I even asked after I switched crosses and not one client noticed.

Lux Element is $$$$ and best found on specials Buy 3 Get 1 Free or other sales.

https://www.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/string_reviews/ISOCREAM17review.html.

Change the comparison string to Lux Element 1.30 and then to Element 1.25mm and disregard the stiffness of 1.25mm Element. It is not as stiff as 1.30mm Element despite the TW database number.

Thank you, that stiffness chart is very helpful!!! I'd love to see a durability chart like that. Kidding of course, I will take my guesses and experiment.

I liked YPTA but only used it with polys. It felt as if YPTA wasn't as "slick" like I saw you mentioned before, sort of rubbery, so while soft the mains didn't slide as easily. But then again I used it with shaped polys. So that's probably next on deck as Gut X Poly setup.

But in terms of hybriding with gut MSV Swift and Lux Elemnt 1.25 would work OK? I'd probably opt for Swift since it's 1.3 and slightly softer.

Thanks again!
 
For those strings listed in post #60, I think so. Some stiffer polys lose tension rapidly. RPM Blast is an example. So while RPM Blast is much stiffer than GW, it loses tension a greater rate.

Volk Cyclone Tour (VCT) 1.30mm is another string that loses tension quickly. But if you string VCT 1.30mm in the mid-50s, it drops tension and then settles in at a comfortable and playable tension for many 4.0 and 4.5 USTA C-rated males until it breaks. This forum has multiple posts from unrated or 3.0/3.5 males who can't handle the tension loss from VCT 1.30mm they see on a chart and bash the string, but I have plenty of 4.5C-rated and 4.5A (appeal down from 5.0) guys who've been using it and winning at 85% in USTA leagues for going on nine years now. I've posted their names, frames, and tension along with their USTA records as proof of their success. Thankfully, string companies offer hundreds of choices for players.

Here is a post that you might find helpful. Post #81. There is a battle between sawing the mains with a stiffer cross vs a softer cross breaking. I try to figure out what each client is doing to maximize the playability of their setup. Putting 1.10 or 1.17 GW with 1.30mm Lux Gut or VS Gut is a recipe to saw the gut quickly. By changing the GW diameter to get within .05mm of the Natural Gut mains, you will extend the life of the NG.

1.30 Lux NG Mains / 1.27 GW crosses will always outlast 1.30 Lux NG Mains and 1.10 or 1.17 GW crosses. The thinner GW crosses are the equivalent of a sharper blade sawing through the same diameter of a log compared to a thicker duller blade cutting the same log. Physics isn't subjective.

Yep, you addressed my thought exactly. The thinner the cross the quicker it'll saw through the gut. I don't have a scientific way to test this, as we're probably splitting hairs, but I'd always opt for softer but thicker string.
 
I only wish I found this thread earlier, but I echo the sentiment here from the hall of famers.
GW 1.27 is way stiffer for me than Cream 1.28. I can tell because it aggravates my TE .
Cream is much softer but it breaks much quicker. I get 2-3 times the durability with GW. That's huge, and I love the way Cream plays.

I string my Speed Pros 22 (RA 62) with Luxi Gut 16@51 and crosses@45. Opted for GW because of its durability, and it was acceptable in this frame.
Yet when I tried it in my new React MPP 18x19 (RA 61) TE reared its ugly head. Cream crosses and a lower tension saved the day. 45 gut x 40 Cream. Also, doesn't say much for RA ratings and I hear Angell's 61 is supposed to be like a 58.

Still searching for a softer than GW but considerably more durable than Cream alternative. Would be grateful if anyone had any suggestions.
I came to this thread now having tried both to say that I wouldn’t use either, and then saw its revival and realized my answer addresses your question.

GW is too stiff. Cream too powerful. I really like Element 16L, soft but not so powerful that you lose control.
 
I'm experiencing significant tension loss with Luxi Gut 16 @56 (20%pre stretch) x GhostWire 1.28 @50. However my issue seems to be pronounced now during the hotter NY weather (didn't notice it much until now). Been using this setup in different frames but don't remember the tension loss being this significant.
The balls start flying on me after about a week ~10-15hrs of play . Strung my second frame to be sure and same result. I even replaced just the cross and strung that at 56 and it helped but not for long and the gut already at 48 still makes it fly uncontrollably.
I also use the Tourna String Meter but always measure before / after so using it as a reference only. I'm loosing about 8+ lbs.

My question is should I try going for 25% pre stretch and upping tensions. At least while it's still hot and humid? Don't do my own stringing so thought some of the experts could chime in with perhaps holding the strings clamped for much longer before locking in...? My stringer is experienced and uses a Wilson Baiardo machine so equipments not an issue.... I don't think.
Simple plan is just to go higher on both strings, but having minor TE, I feel the difference of fresh string and some soreness afterwards vs when it drops and having no discomfort. But still ... trying to dial it in so I loose some tension initially but arrive at at point where it just stabilizes.

Thanks!
 
There are plenty of Multis and Nylon @1.25mm for crosses and Cream 1.28 Mains should compliment each other and end up cheap
 
My question is should I try going for 25% pre stretch and upping tensions. At least while it's still hot and humid? Don't do my own stringing so thought some of the experts could chime in with perhaps holding the strings clamped for much longer before locking in...? My stringer is experienced and uses a Wilson Baiardo machine so equipments not an issue.... I don't think.
Simple plan is just to go higher on both strings, but having minor TE, I feel the difference of fresh string and some soreness afterwards vs when it drops and having no discomfort. But still ... trying to dial it in so I loose some tension initially but arrive at at point where it just stabilizes.

Thanks!

Have you tried a syn gut hybrid. Gut has a lot of power, but maintains it's softness even strung very tight. When I was experimenting with it I strung it up near 70lbs, the limit of what I felt was safe on my stringing machine at the time, and it was still soft and higher powered than anything else I have played.

I'd think you might be better off getting rid of poly since you have TE and putting a thick syn gut in with the gut for hybrid. You could swap the gut to the crosses and put the syn gut in the mains if needed. The gut you can pretty much string as tight as needed, but the tension drop is more noticeable the higher you string it.

You might even consider going full syn gut if it's durable enough for you to not be a burden with having to string so often.
 
Have you tried a syn gut hybrid. Gut has a lot of power, but maintains it's softness even strung very tight. When I was experimenting with it I strung it up near 70lbs, the limit of what I felt was safe on my stringing machine at the time, and it was still soft and higher powered than anything else I have played.

I'd think you might be better off getting rid of poly since you have TE and putting a thick syn gut in with the gut for hybrid. You could swap the gut to the crosses and put the syn gut in the mains if needed. The gut you can pretty much string as tight as needed, but the tension drop is more noticeable the higher you string it.

You might even consider going full syn gut if it's durable enough for you to not be a burden with having to string so often.

I was going to suggest synth gut on X and Babolat VS touch on Mains as VS touch is just magic
and lasts longer in all departments than other Nat Guts. However Cream was in the title etc.
 
Has anyone noted that cream dies before losing a lot of tension?
I feel that at the 6th hour there's frayin which I don't mind, but the strings die (as losing elasticity), like normal behavior of a poly, but I thought it could last more.
 
Cream is for amateurs and Ghostwire for more advanced players. I have found that Cream crosses become paper thin and break quite early if you hit with some pace.
 
Cream is for amateurs and Ghostwire for more advanced players. I have found that Cream crosses become paper thin and break quite early if you hit with some pace.
Did you mean cream for amateurs and ghostwire for Professionals? I don't know of any Pros using ghostwire.

Or did you mean cream for intermediate players?

I think you miss the "amateur" math classes with set theory topics.
 
I finally was able to play with Ghostwire crosses (1.22) it feels better than cream and it allows for more snapback.
Cream felt more like cardboard after the 5th hour.
I only have 4 hours with Ghostwire, but playability is still there, feels as good as fresh strung.
It has a less power than cream, but not too far. Softens the stringbed but it also adds playability, and crispiness?? . For me I think I have a winner... I just wish it doesn't die on me soon, will report on how the last hours of Ghostwire feel
 
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