Used Crank based Stringer - Silent Partner Jazz

aarenes

Rookie
Hello All

There is a used and good condition stringer available - Silent Partner Jazz for under $200. I think I can negotiate some more.
Comes with the base & some accessories (pliers, awl). No starting clamp :-(

Silent Partner has not been selling machines for some years now.

So wondering if I should buy it. Thoughts?
I am wondering if the upgrade from drop weight to crank / lock-out is worth it. In the future, I am hoping, the Silent Partner could pave its way for a Wise electronic tensioner

About me .. I have a klippermate drop weight. I string for myself and my family, about 6-7 times every quarter.
I like the portability of klippermate. Its moved into the garage everytime I dont use it. I think the Silent Partner Jazz will be difficult to move in and out.
But adjusting the drop weight 2-4 times every pull is time consuming.

Very interested in what the community has to say.

Thanks
 

Arvin_C

New User
$200 for an upright lock-out machine is a very good price as long as it's in good condition. You're right in that Silent Partner is no longer in the stringer business, but their machines were pretty well received. Since you're going for a lock-out machine (which is a very mature, durable design), I'd be pretty comfortable with it as long as the machine itself is in good shape; make sure the turntable moves freely, that there aren't any cracks in the structure and that the tension rail (where the tensioner moves on) isn't bent. You can always have the clamps and tensioner repaired/rebuilt/replaced, but any issues with the "core" of the machine will be more expensive to take care of than the machine is worth.

The other thing about the Jazz is that Eagnas has several current models that are basically identical, so replacement parts that work on those machines should work on the Jazz and would be readily available and affordable from them.

As far as moving on from your Klippermate, all I can say is that you will most likely get more consistent results, with less effort and in reduced time, by moving to this machine. The biggest difference makers are moving to a machine that has fixed, double-action clamps and a much more robust mounting system...these are the real upgrades from what you're currently using.

Adding a Wise Tennis Head to the Jazz would be a logical "next-step".

Good luck!
 
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loosegroove

Hall of Fame
For $200 it's pretty much a no brainer. If you decide you don't like it, you should be able to easily recoup your money. The one thing I don't like about the Jazz, is it seems to have old school cone locks for the base clamps, and I prefer some type of spring assisted base clamps. But for $200, it wouldn't be a deal breaker.
 

aarenes

Rookie
$200 for an upright lock-out machine is a very good price as long as it's in good condition. You're right in that Silent Partner is no longer in the stringer business, but their machines were pretty well received. Since you're going for a lock-out machine (which is a very mature, durable design), I'd be pretty comfortable with it as long as the machine itself is in good shape; make sure the turntable moves freely, that there aren't any cracks in the structure and that the tension rail (where the tensioner moves on) isn't bent. You can always have the clamps and tensioner repaired/rebuilt/replaced, but any issues with the "core" of the machine will be more expensive to take care of than the machine is worth.

The other thing about the Jazz is that Eagnas has several current models that are basically identical, so replacement parts that work on those machines should work on the Jazz and would be readily available and affordable from them.

As far as moving on from your Klippermate, all I can say is that you will most likely get more consistent results, with less effort and in reduced time, by moving to this machine. The biggest difference makers are moving to a machine that has fixed, double-action clamps and a much more robust mounting system...these are the real upgrades from what you're currently using.

Adding a Wise Tennis Head to the Jazz would be a logical "next-step".

Good luck!
Arvin_c... thank you so much.
Very detailed response. I feel confident taking the plunge.

I'll checkout the stringers foundational items before making the transaction

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tennishabit

Hall of Fame
wowow $200 dat's 1/2 wat i paid for 5 yrs ago...........absolutely gr8 $/time saver as i hit ~1200 fh/bh everyday n restring my rkts almost every wk n for others as well. Once i got my machine i started doing 'doggy patchup' n only took 5 min to put my rkts back in action:love::love::love::love::love::love:...........................

also no way to do the 'doggy patchup' if i don't have own stringer. I've noted long time ago dat when 1 or 2 strings broken rest of the bed still holding good tension n most of area not worn much at all. i wondered why i must cut the good strings to waste $/time redoing the whole thing:?))):-D:-D:-D:-D:-D:-D:-D:-D...............
 

aarenes

Rookie
@Arvin_C @tennishabit - I got the machine. Its in great condition.
I see 1 or 2 rust marks ... nothing serious. Most the equipment slides, rotates and locks well.

What do you guys do for maintaining a table, clamps and crank? Can I use WD40 to keep it lubricated?
 

Arvin_C

New User
Congrats on getting a great deal!

The rust marks should brush out easy enough. WD40 will work, but use it very sparingly...go little by little, testing as you go until things feel smooth and easy. Dry-type lubricants work well (WD40 has a dry version). The big thing to remember with lubrication is making sure it doesn't get on any surface that holds the string...keep it away from the clamp teeth and the inner surface of the string gripper. If the machine hasn't been used in a while, it should loosen more up as you begin to use it.

The other maintenance you should routinely do is keep the clamp teeth and string gripper clean (rubbing alcahol on a rag will do) and check your tensioner's calibration to see if you need to make any adjustments and to keep it in tune.

Good luck!
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
when i think of WD40 i think of a spray even though I know that's not the only version. WD40 will take off rust and is a good cleaner but it also provides some lubrication. I would not want to get it on either brake disc, brake pads, clamp teeth, gripper teeth, turntable, or clamp bases. Any slippage there cause tension loss. If you do use WD40 follow it up with alcohol to get it off and leave a clean surface.
 

aarenes

Rookie
@Arvin_C @Irvin - thank you.
I do have the WD40 spray type. Should I get the dry type?
Good tips on where to apply and where not and especially good advice to wash it off with alcohol (rubbing alcohol?)
 

Irvin

Talk Tennis Guru
I would not use the dry type but thats just my opinion. I use 91% alcohol to clean everything and occasionally WD40 to clean the teeth on the clamps. Just make sure you get it off with the alcohol. I use CLP to lubricate and clean the clamp post and hostle.
 

tennishabit

Hall of Fame
avoid lubricating any moving parts as there's no constant high speed moving/rotating parts n quite opposite it's all abt brake/tension. wd40 might ruin the baby unless very very necessary/cautious8-B8-B8-B8-B8-B8-B........................
 

aarenes

Rookie
@tennishabit @Irvin - so much to learn. What you said about brake / tension makes sense.
I'll try get rid of the rust spots, clamps and gripper / tensioner with alcohol.

Let me string one racket over the weekend with an inexpensive synthetic gut to see how the machine works.
 

tennishabit

Hall of Fame
@tennishabit @Irvin - so much to learn. What you said about brake / tension makes sense.
I'll try get rid of the rust spots, clamps and gripper / tensioner with alcohol.

Let me string one racket over the weekend with an inexpensive synthetic gut to see how the machine works.
i never use any lub on my machine n actually never seen any stringers in tennis shops use either. lub only required on high speed shifting/rotating mech parts to reduce the surface heat from friction for protection of the surface/parts. completely opposite in this case, it needs/relies on the friction to maintain the accurate/desired/designated tensions:love::love::love::love::love::love:...................

it'll take u couple of hrs to do the 1st bed but soon it'll b much faster once get used to the process...........lololololol man n soon u might 'doggy patch up' ur own rkt, too. not for others though as no one wants to pay 'doggy patch up':eek::eek::eek::eek:.............

also most of young rec-ers'r frequently blaming rkt/string/grip/etcetc blablabla once made a few errors not willing to admit it's their poor forms/techniques. so it's quite hilarious when u use a 'doggy patch up' making much less ue n winner aft winner to beat their sht out...................lololololol manohman:-D:-D:-D:-D:-D:-D:-D:-D:-D................................
 
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aarenes

Rookie
Guys...I need help.

I finally got a chance and tried stringing using the new machine.

I started to get a hang of it...but after lacing 10 mains...I realized that there was slack coming from the clamps.

The clamps are rested on springs which allow vertical movement. After clamping, locking the clamps to the base, when I place the next main, the clamps are slacking.

Im clearly doing something wrong. But what is it?

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am1899

Hall of Fame
Some things to try:

- Clean the clamping surface of your clamps with isopropyl alcohol.

- Adjust the clamping force of the clamps - usually there’s a dial on the back of the head of the clamp that can be loosened or tightened. The clamps should be tight to the point that the string doesn’t slip inside the clamp, but loose enough not to cause indentations in the string when you clamp it.

- Could be that the clamp bases themselves are slipping...in which case I would clean the bases and rails with isopropyl alcohol. If that doesn’t solve the issue, then the bases may need to be adjusted. Read this thread: https://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/base-clamps.453571/
 

aarenes

Rookie
Regarding my previous post, mostly it was user error... got to remember, righty tighty, lefty loosey when working with the clamp base!!!

Thanks to everyone who have consistently helped me out here.

I've strung 4 racquets at higher speeds compared to my drop weight and the fixed clamps allow better string bed tension as there is no slack.

The stringer is working great. I'm glad I made this investment.

Now on to try and sell the drop weight ;-)

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