John,johncauthen said:You don't want it to be whippy.
Please contact me at mctennis@excite.com
This is great information and I'd like to see about getting a racquet done by you. Thanks.
John,johncauthen said:You don't want it to be whippy.
rustsurfr said:Has anyone tried these weighting techniques on a prince tour diablo mid? I realize that there is no "right and wrong" or "works or does not work" But i am looking for any suggestions to help improve my racquet. Right now it is a stock frame, besides the leather grip that added a little bit to the weight. It is already at 13.0 oz, so i don't know if adding much more weight would be a good idea. But am am very curious to find out how any added weight will help. Thanks, Rob
jackson vile said:John said that their racket were really polarized, so I would guess putting .25oz right above hand and then some weight around the hoop say 1-2g on each side anywhere from below 3 & 9 to down into the throat, and if you just want to try it stretch the hoop you may like it.
I suggest trying not to pass 13.5oz or a sw of 340, try to stay below that.
rustsurfr said:Oh yeah, and while adding weight above the hand, would you recommend that arrow shape that everyone was talking about earlier in the thread?
The weight added to the top of the handle has to be set up precisely to get the right effect.
That's the big problem, which shrouds this whole thing. I am working on a universal weight that gives the right effect without having to be precise. Actually, I have it. I'm not sure enough of it, yet.
As for stretching the hoop, I developed that when I was stringing with a two-point mounting system and a crank tensioner. All the racquets were coming out with the heads compressed. I strung the cross strings tighter so the heads would come out the same length they went in, and here's what I learned:
My racquets performed much better for thirty minutes. I remembered pros only use their strings for thirty minutes and I assume pro racquets are strung to the right length. But still, they stay good enough for pro tennis for only thirty minutes.
I studied why the racquets only stayed good for thirty minutes and found out everything that naturally happens to a racquet makes the cross string looser. The main strings pull the head down. So I started to string the cross strings tighter to let the head pull down to the right length. That required stringing the crosses 14 lbs tighter than the mains on the two-point system: a radical departure, but it worked. After a thirty minute break-in period where the racquet felt "tinny", the racquets would soften up, get solid and stay good for a long time. I had hit upon a stringing method where the racquets would feel like pro racquets for the life of the strings.
When I tried it on a six-point machine, it didn't work because the machine didn't allow the head to flex around. When the racquet came out of the six-point machine, the mains on the outside would be much tighter than the mains in the middle, so I can't recommend stringing racquets that way if you use a six-point system.
But stringing on a two-point machine, the racquets will outperform the best six-point stringing if you string the crosses much tighter.
I ended up putting the mains in at 45 and stringing the crosses at whatever tension I wanted, from 60 lbs upwards. The crosses tightened the mains to about 55 or 60, putting a dynamic tension on them through the frame. It produces very responsive string jobs and anybody can do it. It's close to fool proof, but you have to use a two-point mounting system.
At this point I wish I had a job with someone because I have a stringing method that works better than anything, and I can demonstrate the value of my weight in person when I have the ability to fine tune it if they mount it wrong.
What I can do is offer strung and weighted racquets that will be as good as pro racquets. If I worked with someone who distributed racquets, we could sell an Aero Pro or old style Pure Drive for $300, strung with Big Banger mains, Technifibre or Wilson NXT Tour crosses. That’s $100 more than strung racquets normally cost, but players will pay that much for them. Anyone can do the stringing and apply the weight as long as they know exactly how to do it.
We can do it with a lot of other racquets, too.
Try the Dunlop with tighter crosses but with no added weight even if you have a six-point machine.
The weight added to the top of the handle has to be set up precisely to get the right effect.
That's the big problem, which shrouds this whole thing. I am working on a universal weight that gives the right effect without having to be precise. Actually, I have it. I'm not sure enough of it, yet.
As for stretching the hoop, I developed that when I was stringing with a two-point mounting system and a crank tensioner. All the racquets were coming out with the heads compressed. I strung the cross strings tighter so the heads would come out the same length they went in, and here's what I learned:
My racquets performed much better for thirty minutes. I remembered pros only use their strings for thirty minutes and I assume pro racquets are strung to the right length. But still, they stay good enough for pro tennis for only thirty minutes.
I studied why the racquets only stayed good for thirty minutes and found out everything that naturally happens to a racquet makes the cross string looser. The main strings pull the head down. So I started to string the cross strings tighter to let the head pull down to the right length. That required stringing the crosses 14 lbs tighter than the mains on the two-point system: a radical departure, but it worked. After a thirty minute break-in period where the racquet felt "tinny", the racquets would soften up, get solid and stay good for a long time. I had hit upon a stringing method where the racquets would feel like pro racquets for the life of the strings.
When I tried it on a six-point machine, it didn't work because the machine didn't allow the head to flex around. When the racquet came out of the six-point machine, the mains on the outside would be much tighter than the mains in the middle, so I can't recommend stringing racquets that way if you use a six-point system.
But stringing on a two-point machine, the racquets will outperform the best six-point stringing if you string the crosses much tighter.
I ended up putting the mains in at 45 and stringing the crosses at whatever tension I wanted, from 60 lbs upwards. The crosses tightened the mains to about 55 or 60, putting a dynamic tension on them through the frame. It produces very responsive string jobs and anybody can do it. It's close to fool proof, but you have to use a two-point mounting system.
At this point I wish I had a job with someone because I have a stringing method that works better than anything, and I can demonstrate the value of my weight in person when I have the ability to fine tune it if they mount it wrong.
What I can do is offer strung and weighted racquets that will be as good as pro racquets. If I worked with someone who distributed racquets, we could sell an Aero Pro or old style Pure Drive for $300, strung with Big Banger mains, Technifibre or Wilson NXT Tour crosses. That’s $100 more than strung racquets normally cost, but players will pay that much for them. Anyone can do the stringing and apply the weight as long as they know exactly how to do it.
We can do it with a lot of other racquets, too.
Try the Dunlop with tighter crosses but with no added weight even if you have a six-point machine.
It doesn't work for the oversize, because it's easy to make the OS head too long when you string the crosses tighter. My weight works well on the oversize 6.3. Send me your address, and I will send you a set of weights to try.
To make the oversize 6.3 hit best, measure the racquet length when it's unstrung, and make sure it comes out the same length when strung. But it benefits from more weight.
I have improved the weights so they are beginning to work without tinkering.
I did answer the RDX500 question on page 13, right after BJ asked it.
That's all you have to do. Don't add any weight, just string it that way. Make the head longer and it works like a charm. Try it more extreme than I suggested. String the mains at 40, the crosses at 64 and 67.
You don't have to worry about the sixth string slipping when you string the seventh 3 lbs tighter. It doesn't matter. By stringing the top six looser, the top of the head will not be boardy, and the shape will look good.
The RDX500 is not a great racquet, but it can be fixed with that stringing method. Don't add any weight to it.
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I also used those lead pipes with flashing, at first, and then found some 2.5 lb density lead sheet in a roll, 30" by 30". Ask for “three pound density lead sheet” at a roofing contractor’s supply store.
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The first Pro Staffs without the headguards were the best. When they added the headguard, they messed it up. The first ones were designed by Rich Janes, who must have overseen their quality when he worked at Wilson. He left Wilson and went to Dunlop where he designed the very successful Revelation racquets. Then, he went to Penn. I am pretty sure he helped design the Babolat Pure Drive. I talked to him on the phone when he worked at Penn, before the Pure Drive came out. I think he designed the Pure Drive because it feels like the original PS and the Revelation, and I think Penn had some connections with Babolat. If he did design all three racquets as I believe, he is the best racquet designer there is.
One of my best racquets is an ultra-light 235 gram Pure Drive that you can't buy (called VS Drive, designed by Rich Janes, I believe, the same person who designed the basic frames Sampras used). It has my newset weight added to it and my stringing method and weighs 305 grams modified. Newton said he stood on the shoulders of giants.
I have another racquet that is as good, or better. Its design evolved out of Hammer weighting, being influenced by the old Pro Staff but it's different, not exactly like a Rich Janes design: it has a shorter handle, nine inches long. I think this is the frame Federer is painting: it's the best Wilson racquet, ever: a Hammer 6.3 Mid. Federer's version is modified with extra handle weight; and my version is modified with my newest weighting techniques and my stringing techniques. Wilson still manufacturers the 255 gram frame. My modified version weighs 314 grams. With the right connections, I could sell that racquet to pros and regular players. If I do, other pros besides Federer can have a racquet that is as good as Federer's. We could truly see if it's the racquet.
The Davis Cup match that Roddick lost, because he couldn't win a match point, then got sick, was a debacle of bad racquet balance. There were many mistakes. Neither player could hit shots when they needed to. Maybe you don't believe racquets are important, but at least there needs to be someone who is providing tennis players with good racquets because most all tennis players, even top pros are fighting against bad racquet balance. Sometimes, it even makes them nauseous. That can’t be good for tennis.
Will this work on the RDS001 mid plus?
I had an eye-opening experience when I tried modifying an nTour 90 by stretching the head, which works for most racquets. I realized the high location of the stringbridge caused it to feel equally good if stretched or not stretched.
I realized this was the secret to the Pro Staff 85. The secret is a higher stringbridge. If you make the stringbridge a little higher than on a Six-One 95, you get the Pro Staff 85 feel.
The eye-opening experience was when I tried the nTour 90 next to the Hammer 6.3. I discovered they had exactly the same personality. The Hammer 6.3 was a light version of the nTour 90. They both felt the same, but the Hammer was lighter.
Because of the location of the stringbridge, the stretched nTour 90 didn't perforn any better or any worse than the unstretched version of the nTour 90. And I've found the same to be true for the Head Prestige.
Because of the higher stringbridge location, the heads of the nTour 90 and Hammer 6.3 can be stretched or not stretched, and players like them, whereas stretching the head of a mFil 300 (27.0 inch) about 1/8 inch or more dramatically improves it. The same is true for all Babolats.
I prefer stretching the head of the Hammer 6.3, but the nTour 90 is so heavy, it works best as it is. The amazing thing is they are essentially the same racquet, they have the same feel.
I started to notice Federer uses a racquet with rounded edges, as well as a racquet with square edges. The Hammer 6.3 and nTour 90 have the same feel, but the Hammer, being equally powerful, especially when modified like I do, is much lighter.
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They have the exact same feel and Federer seems to be using two different racquets: one with rounded edges, and one with square edges. The two racquets are also different colors.
How does that relate to setting up an nTour 90? First, the nTour 90 isn't improved dramatically by stretching it because the stringbridge is high enough so it acts like part of the top of the head. The stringbridge location is most of the secret to the "Pete Sampras PS 85", and the "Safin Prestige": the two racquets that produce the highest level of tennis we've seen. The Federer nTour 90 and possibly some kind of secret Hammer 6.3 mutation that Federer is using produce the same performance. The Hammer 6.3 that we have available to us is the racquet with the most potential, when modified.
This would be a wonderful product for TW to offer; if I can show my ideas work.
The nTour 90 has a lot of weight everywhere in the frame. You shouldn't add weight to it, or stretch it. So that's the answer to how to modify an nTour 90. Don't modify that racquet. Modify a Hammer 6.3 by stringing the cross strings tighter and putting weight at the top of the grip. You get a better version of the nTour 90. Maybe that is what Wilson is working on right now with Federer and a new racquet that hasn't been revealed yet.
And the dark truth that we know is, they may never offer it, keeping it a secret. Why are all these pro racquets different from the racquets we have? Wouldn't it be good to offer a product that is close to what a pro actually uses? I have a Hammer 6.3, and now a Aero Pro Drive that fit the bill.
I have some great hitting racquets, but don't want to claim I have the answers. I discover things that work, and wish I could work with someone big, so we can try them together.
I am working hard on the weights to get them perfect. It's a big challenge to create a universal weight, but I might actually succeed.
I am extremely excited about this, so bare with me here if anything seems to ramble/incoherent ect.
*It sucks up the heavy balls very well, an amazingly stable racket, so naturally it deals with it all, and the sweet spot is high and a different shape that I have never felt before, It is just in the dream spot if you know what I mean and it relatively large...
*Yes, it just puts the spin on the serve for you, and it just has such a feel, so that you can feel the end of the stick and as you whip it you can feel more and more weight, but in the direction you are hitting, ie it feels very easy. And I mean you can crank this thing, I am just so suprised. I hit with a heavy enough pace and spin at times to tear the racket out of the opponents hands, that is when I am doing this on purpose after being extrememly warmed up and it is still hard to do, but to the point, it handles it solid, it just pockets and then rockets on out.
Another thing that is weird is that it can go from feel lowpowered like a 90sqin to high powered depending on how you whip it and how you spin. So it handles paceless balls realy well, makes them no problem
*As for not working underpressure that is just simply the player, the racket can't do everything, other wise there has been 0 complications that I can think of, I put it throught the test and the more I tested the more amazing I thought it was.
* with the momentum coment you are making, that is a hammer based racket, this is stable 100%. I would compare it to doing everything a tweener does and everything a players does, I know this sounds weird and I think so also, but that is what it does, I guess I could yell at it and argue with it![]()
* It could over take my 200gMW90sqin, but do all sorts of things that racket just can't.
I strung the mains 50lbs and the crosses 64lbs with uniqe irradiated (it was left over) I would like to thin it out even more so that it is a skinny as my MW90sqin and use gut int he crosses and NXT max-tour in the crosses, and keep the first crosses at 62-60lbs.
As for the weighting I did not make is scientific, I had some lead tape I took off an old frame wrapped it around the handle so that it was just barly above my hand and then too some Bab lead strips that were left over and put them on the nose. Just really messing around, but it turned out to be just right, so that the SW is not too high and the racket does not fell too heavy, the racket feels heavy in a sense, but you really can't feel it affecting your wrist, you would just have to experience it.
I am just so suprised, I realy don't believe it![]()
what racquet were you talking about here. It's been a long time...but do you still use this setup? where in the world did this thread go??![]()
why not its a funny thread !No they shouldn't.
-SF