What racquet is best?

what racquet is best?


  • Total voters
    44

headfan91

Semi-Pro
what racquet is the best for an all court game for a small 3.0 player? Which has the most power? control? I'm looking for a blend of power and control, more control, but still some pop. It also has to be arm friendly.
 
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Some of the racquets in your poll are for advanced players, if you are a 3.0 and want more power you should take a look at oversize racquets. I would take the rds 001 out of your list.
 
thats not a good reason, I just used to play with head, so thats why have this name.

What grip do you play with? Do you take tennis lessons? Are you a lady? Did you have arm injuries before? Did you ever hear of the brand Babolat?

Micky
 
I play with the LM Radical OS. If you've ever played with the ti.Radical, it plays very similar, but is a little stiffer and heavier. I haven't tried any of the other rackets, but Radicals have always been solid rackets. I have no complaints though. The groundstrokes are solid, it's one of the best volleying Radicals, and my serves have a good amount of pop.
 
I think the Dunlop M-Fil/Aerogel 300 would be the best because it is good on all shots. I could probably tell you a certain thing about some of those other racquets that it lacks. The Dunlop M-Fil/Aerogel is good for and all-courter-I suggest you get a few (they're so cheap)!
 
What grip do you play with? Do you take tennis lessons? Are you a lady? Did you have arm injuries before? Did you ever hear of the brand Babolat?

Micky
I have a sw grip on forehand and a 2hbh. I'm not a lady and I have tendonitis in my elbow, so I want a forgiving and arm friendly racquet.
 
the heritage type s. PK has great frames + good quality control + good prices and a nice PJ on that frame specifically ;)
 
I would recommended MFil 300, then Yonex RDS 300.
MFil 200 , NCode 6.1 may be too heavy for you , unless you are used to playing heavy racquet.
If you want to go for a Shark - might as well get the Hybrid SHark - its a better racquet.
 
I have a sw grip on forehand and a 2hbh. I'm not a lady and I have tendonitis in my elbow, so I want a forgiving and arm friendly racquet.

I have had terrible pains in my wrist, elbow and shoulder. A poster in this forum keeps blaming the injuries to the racquets, but I have come to different conclusions.

Strings play a key role in injuries...more so than the sticks. Before you change racquets...try different tensions and different combinations of strings.

A couple of days ago, a good friend of mine complained that his Babolat Pure Drive Cortex was killing his elbow. I got worried for a minute there because I suggested him to get that racquet. He shows me his racquet and it was strung with Hurricane Pro 15L and Challenger 15. Hummmm

Then I ask him about his second racquet...and he says that he has no pain with that one. He shows me his second Pure Drive Cortex strung with Hurricane Pro 16 and Challenger 16. Both racquets were strung at the same tension.

See, my friend now knows that he should be using the 16 gage or a different tension with the 15 gage. It is a matter of trial and error until you get confortable with your equipment.

My friend is playing a 4.0 level easily now and improving. With his old and now broken Heads...he was in the 3.0 level or worse.

Good luck headfan,

Micky
 
I have had terrible pains in my wrist, elbow and shoulder. A poster in this forum keeps blaming the injuries to the racquets, but I have come to different conclusions.

Strings play a key role in injuries...more so than the sticks. Before you change racquets...try different tensions and different combinations of strings.

A couple of days ago, a good friend of mine complained that his Babolat Pure Drive Cortex was killing his elbow. I got worried for a minute there because I suggested him to get that racquet. He shows me his racquet and it was strung with Hurricane Pro 15L and Challenger 15. Hummmm

Then I ask him about his second racquet...and he says that he has no pain with that one. He shows me his second Pure Drive Cortex strung with Hurricane Pro 16 and Challenger 16. Both racquets were strung at the same tension.

See, my friend now knows that he should be using the 16 gage or a different tension with the 15 gage. It is a matter of trial and error until you get confortable with your equipment.

My friend is playing a 4.0 level easily now and improving. With his old and now broken Heads...he was in the 3.0 level or worse.

Good luck headfan,

Micky
Actually my tendonitis was not from tennis at all, but from baseball. thats why I have stopped and come to tennis. I despritely need a new racquet becaused mine cam from a local sporting goods store and I don't like it at all.
 
but look at the price difference, is the hybrid worth the extra cash?


Yeah - I know. Hybrid SHark comes with a premium. It's a better racquet.

If budget is an issue - MFIL 300 is still by far the best for the money and for all around court racquet.
MFil 200 Plus (2006) model is another one I would recommend; I like the open string pattern feel and the control. Don't go witht he MFIL 200 or the 2005 MFil 200 Plus - these are heavier racquet.

Another option for you is Fischer Pro # 1 FT - it under rated racquet that offers a big punch. You can get this one on the other auction site - which is cheaper(since its an older model).
 
Yeah - I know. Hybrid SHark comes with a premium. It's a better racquet.

If budget is an issue - MFIL 300 is still by far the best for the money and for all around court racquet.
MFil 200 Plus (2006) model is another one I would recommend; I like the open string pattern feel and the control. Don't go witht he MFIL 200 or the 2005 MFil 200 Plus - these are heavier racquet.

Another option for you is Fischer Pro # 1 FT - it under rated racquet that offers a big punch. You can get this one on the other auction site - which is cheaper(since its an older model).
how does the power of the m-fil 300 compare to the m-fil 200 06?
 
how does the power of the m-fil 300 compare to the m-fil 200 06?

Mfil 200 06 - is a tad heavier so you'll have more control compared to Mf300.

Both have open string 16 x19 so it offers good pop and spin. Power comes of the stroke and the tech of your swing; these are player racquet. The Mfil 200 06 - will take some getting use because the racquet is stiffer .

I started playing with Mfil 300 and as I improved my game I started to move to heavier weight racquet - that is why I moved from the 300 to 200 /06.

It all comes down to what weight and frame stiffness you prefer.

M FIl 300 is one of the highly respected racquet out there, even the pro's like Haas and Muresmo are playing with MFil 300. Search this forum - you'll find players are raving about the Mfil 300.
Hope this help...
 
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m-fil 300 is great for a 3.0. price is great too.

I'd rather go with the normal shark or shark longbody; the o3 just tacks on price for a little more performance.

gah, I wish I had demoed it earlier or the TT warrior. great sticks.
 
Power and control are generally opposing forces. What you need to find is the right ratio. I think control is generally better than power, especially at lower levels, because you'll win more matches over similarly low-level opponents if you can keep the UE rate low. With control, you can also put pressure on your opponent which will increase their UE rate. My strategy for winning matches is usually to put pressure on my opponent to increase errors. Relying mostly on winners is usually an inferior game plan, unless you're a very high level player or a serve-volley player.

Stick with control. With more control, you can produce more power yourself, anyway. Angle is key in tennis, in my estimation, but it depends upon whether you prefer defense or offense. I think the best offense is defense. I like to pass net rushes, lob them, and slice shots so that big hitters get frustrated and miss. When a winner comes about (more rarely when you're playing a good player), you can put it away more comfortably with a control racquet; you're less likely to spray it. If you're worried about hitting the frame because of a small head, you really need to improve your technique. If you hit the frame of an 85 square inch racquet frequently, you need to play with one more than someone who doesn't.

I don't advocate a racquet head larger than 90 square inches for anyone who is under 4.0. I voted on the poll before reading that you want a 3.0 suggestion. I think 95 is a better size for the current pro tour than 90, which is why I chose the Wilson.

My suggestion for you is the Prostaff 85 strung with 17 gauge Babolat gut strung at 59. That's what I use, and I've given it to people with bigger widebody racquets and they've been amazed at the stability and power one can produce. The latest incarnation of the racquet isn't quite as solid as older versions, but with some lead at 9 and 3, it's still a great racquet. Don't skimp on string. Quality string is absolutely essential. When I was a 3.0, I could hit a really big forehand with this racquet. Power isn't really the issue at your level. Angles and control are.
 
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Power and control are generally opposing forces. What you need to find is the right ratio. I think control is generally better than power, especially at lower levels, because you'll win more matches over similarly low-level opponents if you can keep the UE rate low. With control, you can also put pressure on your opponent which will increase their UE rate. My strategy for winning matches is usually to put pressure on my opponent to increase errors. Relying mostly on winners is usually an inferior game plan, unless you're a very high level player or a serve-volley player.

Stick with control. With more control, you can produce more power yourself, anyway. Angle is key in tennis, in my estimation, but it depends upon whether you prefer defense or offense. I think the best offense is defense. I like to pass net rushes, lob them, and slice shots so that big hitters get frustrated and miss. When a winner comes about (more rarely when you're playing a good player), you can put it away more comfortably with a control racquet; you're less likely to spray it. If you're worried about hitting the frame because of a small head, you really need to improve your technique. If you hit the frame of an 85 square inch racquet frequently, you need to play with one more than someone who doesn't.

I don't advocate a racquet head larger than 90 square inches for anyone who is under 4.0. I voted on the poll before reading that you want a 3.0 suggestion. I think 95 is a better size for the current pro tour than 90, which is why I chose the Wilson.

My suggestion for you is the Prostaff 85 strung with 17 gauge Babolat gut strung at 59. That's what I use, and I've given it to people with bigger widebody racquets and they've been amazed at the stability and power one can produce. The latest incarnation of the racquet isn't quite as solid as older versions, but with some lead at 9 and 3, it's still a great racquet. Don't skimp on string. Quality string is absolutely essential. When I was a 3.0, I could hit a really big forehand with this racquet. Power isn't really the issue at your level. Angles and control are.

nice informative post. however i dont think he should use a ps 85 as a 3.0. the sweetspot will probably be too small, and it will make him use bad technique just to hit the ball over consistently. i dont know if that would be a good move :|
 
Power and control are generally opposing forces. What you need to find is the right ratio. I think control is generally better than power, especially at lower levels, because you'll win more matches over similarly low-level opponents if you can keep the UE rate low. With control, you can also put pressure on your opponent which will increase their UE rate. My strategy for winning matches is usually to put pressure on my opponent to increase errors. Relying mostly on winners is usually an inferior game plan, unless you're a very high level player or a serve-volley player.

Stick with control. With more control, you can produce more power yourself, anyway. Angle is key in tennis, in my estimation, but it depends upon whether you prefer defense or offense. I think the best offense is defense. I like to pass net rushes, lob them, and slice shots so that big hitters get frustrated and miss. When a winner comes about (more rarely when you're playing a good player), you can put it away more comfortably with a control racquet; you're less likely to spray it. If you're worried about hitting the frame because of a small head, you really need to improve your technique. If you hit the frame of an 85 square inch racquet frequently, you need to play with one more than someone who doesn't.

I don't advocate a racquet head larger than 90 square inches for anyone who is under 4.0. I voted on the poll before reading that you want a 3.0 suggestion. I think 95 is a better size for the current pro tour than 90, which is why I chose the Wilson.

My suggestion for you is the Prostaff 85 strung with 17 gauge Babolat gut strung at 59. That's what I use, and I've given it to people with bigger widebody racquets and they've been amazed at the stability and power one can produce. The latest incarnation of the racquet isn't quite as solid as older versions, but with some lead at 9 and 3, it's still a great racquet. Don't skimp on string. Quality string is absolutely essential. When I was a 3.0, I could hit a really big forehand with this racquet. Power isn't really the issue at your level. Angles and control are.
Thansk that was a very good post.. lots of info, however i don't think an 95 or a 90 for that matter would do me any good. I thin that 95 to 98 would suit me best. correct me if I'm wrong. what about the ps 95?

nice informative post. however i dont think he should use a ps 85 as a 3.0. the sweetspot will probably be too small, and it will make him use bad technique just to hit the ball over consistently. i dont know if that would be a good move :|
I agree with you about the ps 85. what would you suggest?
 
RDS001-98 is one of the best choices.

Npro-Open/Surge is also a good one for a 3.0 player.

I am not sure about N61-95, because I've heard equal number of bad comments about it as the good ones. I've hit two n61-95 before, but I never liked both experiences, probably because it was not for me or i wasn't good at that time.

so decide on yourself. No comment on other rackets. I know nothing about them.
 
it is always good to demo i was suprised at my decision for a new racquet
the best ones for how you describe yourself are PK Type S, wait for the Dunlop Aerogel 300, Wilson nPro Open, and the Yonex RDS 001. The decision is all yours, but pick the one you play best with. After lessons, matches, and a few months :) then it is an increasing NTRP level:)
 
what about the ps 95?
The PS 95 is a good racquet. My backhand was easier to hit with it and more powerful, but my forehand was harder to control. For my game, I decided that my forehand is more important so the added control and stability of the 85 won out. However, I think I could have adapted to the 95.

An 85 head isn't as demanding as people think. I played with one at the 3.0 level and did well, better than I did with any other racquet. The small head, moderate stiffness, and stability from its mass lower the UE rate. The 17 gauge gut is essential, though. Anything else will have no power. The PS 85 is capable of producing plenty of power. As I mentioned, I've given it to widebody/stiff/light racquet users and they've been surprised. One guy said he would switch, and he became a much better opponent when he was using it. He went from missing a lot to hitting surprisingly bit shots. Large racquet heads are bad news, I think. Light racquets are even worse.

You could do a lot worse than the PS 95. It's more flexible in the head than the 85, but does provide more power due to the larger head size. More power, though, means less control. You'll have to use more topspin to keep big forehands in the court.

The stiff and light racquets many are suggesting are not going to help your game. The notion that lower level players should use light and stiff racquets is patently false in my opinion. A lower level player needs racquet stability, and you have to have mass for that. Stability translates to a lower UE rate which translates to more games/matches won.
 
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