Wilson Blade 18x20 but with more spin
- Thread starter musicsoul
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mad dog1
G.O.A.T.
Will PM you.
Pneumated1
Hall of Fame
Thanks. I realize these questions (and answers) are nuanced.
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phanamous
Rookie
I was basically where you're at 2 years ago. 1HBH, SW grip FH with a preference for tight pattern 97-98 sq in, 12oz, 330sw. Was playing a modded Yonex Vcore Tour F 310 (97)(16x21) which had a very tight string pattern. I was looking for easier spin and more forgiveness.
Gut / poly in that frame gave me the most spin I found. Not exactly sure why but I think it simply allows the ball to dwell on the stringbed a little longer allowing RHS to apply more spin. It did also soften the string bed up making it more forgiving but still not enough.
Pure Strike 17 (18x20) was my next frame. Accidentally demoed a 7gm below spec frame that played very headlight. Much easier RHS with this one and was generating easy spin even though its string pattern is relatively tight also. Problem is lack of stability with a HL frame, noticeable against heavy hitters. I'd lead it up for better stability but then lose RHS. A bit of a conundrum.
My next thought was to try tight pattern larger headsize to find both RHS & stability. This means not too thick a beam also. I ended up now owning the following after demoing a boatload:
Head Gravity Tour [18x20]
Prince Tour 100P (2015) [18x20]
Wilson Blade 101L (2013?) [16x20]
I carry these along with my other 2 frames in my bag most of the times as I'm constantly experimenting. Surprisingly, I'm playing my best with the Wilson 101L right now as it's so easy to play with. It's a 275g frame that I've loaded up with 30gm in the butt ending up at 11.5oz with a very HL balance. It's very whippy with easy RHS thanks to the low SW and thin beam. Easy for overheads and hitting balls on the run. I thought my 1HBH would suffer but it's actually better now as I'm able generate much more spin now. It's surprisingly stable also, likely due to it having more weight at 3/9. I just wish its stringbed could be a bit tighter. So a $70 frame ended up being the best for me right now. How ironic.
RHS & Stability seems to be at the opposite end of the spectrum. HL frames are just easier to play with not requiring you to have perfect form at contact which is often during match play. I ended up finding the right balance for me in a 101sq in frame. Don't be snobby toward larger frames like I was for the longest time.
Gut / poly in that frame gave me the most spin I found. Not exactly sure why but I think it simply allows the ball to dwell on the stringbed a little longer allowing RHS to apply more spin. It did also soften the string bed up making it more forgiving but still not enough.
Pure Strike 17 (18x20) was my next frame. Accidentally demoed a 7gm below spec frame that played very headlight. Much easier RHS with this one and was generating easy spin even though its string pattern is relatively tight also. Problem is lack of stability with a HL frame, noticeable against heavy hitters. I'd lead it up for better stability but then lose RHS. A bit of a conundrum.
My next thought was to try tight pattern larger headsize to find both RHS & stability. This means not too thick a beam also. I ended up now owning the following after demoing a boatload:
Head Gravity Tour [18x20]
Prince Tour 100P (2015) [18x20]
Wilson Blade 101L (2013?) [16x20]
I carry these along with my other 2 frames in my bag most of the times as I'm constantly experimenting. Surprisingly, I'm playing my best with the Wilson 101L right now as it's so easy to play with. It's a 275g frame that I've loaded up with 30gm in the butt ending up at 11.5oz with a very HL balance. It's very whippy with easy RHS thanks to the low SW and thin beam. Easy for overheads and hitting balls on the run. I thought my 1HBH would suffer but it's actually better now as I'm able generate much more spin now. It's surprisingly stable also, likely due to it having more weight at 3/9. I just wish its stringbed could be a bit tighter. So a $70 frame ended up being the best for me right now. How ironic.
RHS & Stability seems to be at the opposite end of the spectrum. HL frames are just easier to play with not requiring you to have perfect form at contact which is often during match play. I ended up finding the right balance for me in a 101sq in frame. Don't be snobby toward larger frames like I was for the longest time.
Roland G
Hall of Fame
Just a suggestion : try a thin gauge poly on the Blade one last time. Solinco Tour Bit 19g for example, works great in the Blade, strung low. Along with good technique, this should help you create all the spin you need
thin gauge definitely adds on spin. I play my blade currently with a 1.10mm MSV focus hex. Quite a bit a spin but also you have to consider to huge other effects. I had problems adapting to the low launch angle the blade gave me.. now with this very thin gauge its almost opposite...most shots have a high launch angle.. almost too much to be Controlled.
Also you should consider the loss of SW points due to the thinner/lighter skin. Can be 6-10 points!
are you saying the thin string dramatically changed the launch, because i've tried 1.24 and 1.15 of my current string and it's not a huge difference in launch
beltsman
G.O.A.T.
Speed Pro or maybe MP? Gravity could be worth a demo too.
The Extreme Pro might be too far away from what you want. Can always demo it though.
phanamous
Rookie
Thin poly do help spin but changes in playability too quickly I find. Constant restringing was required even though they do last a bit longer in tight pattern frames.
Gut/poly ended up being much more durable/consistent in playability and surprisingly cheaper in the long run for me.
I also string the crosses about 5lbs lower at the top and bottom of the frame slowing increasing toward the center. Helps to expand the sweetspot a bit and help some with spin.
Dropping cross tension at the center helps with spin too but will result in launch angles inconsistencies. The tighter the crosses are, the more tension can be dropped.
Gut/poly ended up being much more durable/consistent in playability and surprisingly cheaper in the long run for me.
I also string the crosses about 5lbs lower at the top and bottom of the frame slowing increasing toward the center. Helps to expand the sweetspot a bit and help some with spin.
Dropping cross tension at the center helps with spin too but will result in launch angles inconsistencies. The tighter the crosses are, the more tension can be dropped.
roger presley
Hall of Fame
If he can't get it with Blade, he can't get it with Speed or something else. Technique is his problem, not Blade.
The more headlight the more potential for spin. The more open the the string pattern the more potential for spin The more open the grip semi western or western the more potential the spinThe more swings you take at a 60degree angle upward at contact the more potential for spin Have fun
Haha, I don't have any issues playing with my blade. As I said in my original post, it's almost perfect. My swing is modern and with allot of spin, I just noticed that when I played with my old racquet (GT Prestige mid) I had more spin. So I was looking for racquets that had the same type of swing (Swing weight, twist weight, plow) but with more spin.
A thinner string is definitely an option, although I really like Yonex PTP. When talking about other racquets I also came to the conclusion that the new Speed MP might be interesting.
yes. In my case its like day and night. maybe its also the increased power.. I started with a hybrid with 1.24/1.25mm gauges ... coudlnt adapt to the low launch angle. My 1.18mm NRG² helped so in regards of power. Now the super thin 1.10mm poly is almost too high in launch angle... distracts my control
So these were the same string but different gauges or were they different strings and different gauges because that's too many variables
roger presley
Hall of Fame
Yes,but MP is a totally different racquet from your Blade. Yonex PTP is ok,but not so spin friendly like some other strings
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phanamous
Rookie
Speed line is made for spin due to its very polarized configuration. Works well on the forehand but felt weird and unstable on the 1HBH. My 1HBH, like most I think, prefers a heavy static depolarized weight, with a HL balance. I can see it working well for 2HBH as stability is less of an issue with 2 hands.
