Wilson Ultra Tour stringing instructions

Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by radnil95, May 21, 2018.

  1. radnil95

    radnil95 New User

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    Does anyone have the PDF file of the stringing instructions for the Wilson Ultra Tour 18x20?

    They are not listed on this website for some reason:
    http://www.wilson.com/en-us/help/product/stringing-instructions


    Also, this may be a stupid question, but, does matter if the tie-offs for a strung racquet don't match the ones specified on the official stringing instructions? I occassionally get my racquets done by a retired MRT and when he did my DR98 he just did his own thing. I didn't want to disturb/pester him about following the stringing instructions for my specific racquet model as I didn't want to be rude (I just put faith on his credentials). The racquet did play fine but I still feel really OCD about it not being the same as what the manufacturer specifies.
     
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  2. esgee48

    esgee48 Legend

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    Courtesy of the KlipperUSA folks, who provided this via email: [T=tip of hoop, B=bottom of hoop]
    WILSON ULTRA TOUR
    Tension: 50 - 60
    Length: 20'M - 19'C
    Pattern: 18M X 20C
    Skip M Holes: 8,10T - 9B
    Tie M: 7B
    Start C: 8T
    Tie C: 6T - 12B
    You would have gotten a response a lot sooner if this had been in the Stringing Techniques forum rather than Racquets.

    Regarding tie off holes - As long as there is enough room for 2 strings in that hole, matters will be fine. When you have to enlarge holes, then it is not so copacetic. However, you should use the specified tie off holes whenever possible. Only time I would change it is if there is a very good reason to do so, i.e. too long a length between hole and last string.
     
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  3. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    I’m sure the instructions @esgee48 supplied are correct but I wouldn’t string it that way. If you tie off the mains at 7 throat you are going to block grommet 8 throat on both sides with two strings. I would string that racket with an ATW pattern or you could also go bottom up.
     
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  4. 1HBHfanatic

    1HBHfanatic Hall of Fame

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    OP,, where did he tie off?
    the wilson ultra tour has wide grommets in the specified locations listed above.. anywhere else, would have required widening grommets..
     
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  5. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    He was talking about his DR98 but same problem.
     
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  6. 1HBHfanatic

    1HBHfanatic Hall of Fame

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    Oops,, your correct irvin, I stand corrected, I missed that..

    If I recall, the y.dr98, has a couple extra places(wide enough grommets to tie off comfortably).. example, 3rd cross, and a couple ontop...
     
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  7. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    A few yes so you can tie mains to mains and crosses to crosses.
     
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  8. Wes

    Wes Semi-Pro

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    Regarding the Wilson Ultra Tour, this is incorrect.
    8Throat will not be blocked by even a single string, let alone two.
    On both sides, 8Throat will already have it's (only) string running through it (the 8th mains) long before you're tying off the mains.

    The only grommet near the throat that has a remote chance of being blocked will be 9Throat - since it's the only skipped hole at the throat end of the racquet & will be where the bottom (20th) cross will go later.
    Even still, 9T will have only ONE string passing over it (because the main tie-offs will be coming from 10T, going to 7T).

    Furthermore, because the tie-off is at 7T (as opposed to if it had been at 8T) the small section of string passing over 9T will very likely be offset (slightly below or slightly above) the 9T grommet hole.
    Passing the 20th cross over/under it shouldn't pose much of an issue.

    Note: If the main tie-offs had been at 8T (or if one chooses to tie off there) the string passing over 9T would pose much more of an issue when it came time to navigate the 20th cross over/under it (because it would probably no longer be offset & would likely be directly over the 9T hole).

    Call the stringing police.
    Somebody arrest this man. :p
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2018
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  9. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Deleted
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2018
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  10. CosmosMpower

    CosmosMpower Professional

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    #10
  11. 1HBHfanatic

    1HBHfanatic Hall of Fame

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    I just strung up my w.ultra.tour, 1pc, multis, with double box pattern,,
    looks very clean, only 1 doublestring hole at top.
    no blocked holes, no unnecessary widening of any other grommets..
     
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  12. onarj

    onarj New User

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    Is it possible to string it ATW with two flying clamps only? If yes, do u have a link to one of your Youtube video as I have seen quite a lot now and dont know which one to choose :)
     
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  13. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    It is possible but why would you want to string it ATW (especially with flying clamps?) I prefer not to string a racket with only a short section of the frame supporting the transition from main to cross and that happens on each side at the bottom of the frame going from the outside main to the bottom cross. Knowing that would you still like to string your racket ATW, or 2 piece? I seriously doubt it will cause a problem though but I would string it 2 piece.
     
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  14. onarj

    onarj New User

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    I normally string it two piece, but I have difficulties keeping the right tension on both my outer mains due to the knots in each side.
     
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  15. Wes

    Wes Semi-Pro

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    I agree.
    That's absolutely not true.
    On the Ultra Tour, the transition from outer main to bottom cross, or bottom cross to outer main (space between 9Throat and 10Throat), actually has a rather large transition (bigger spacing), so that is not the area of the frame where I would have my concerns.

    Perhaps. Do you also have a starting clamp too - or only the 2 flying clamps?
     
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  16. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Maintaining tension on the outer strings with flying clamps will be a challenge. A starting clamp or another flying clamp would help a lot. The problem is the clamps twist when you release tension and you’re not going to get that tension back. If you had another clamp you could clamp a third string and eliminate that twisting.

    If you use an ATW pattern you’re still going to have tension issues because there isn’t always a good way to hold tension and prevent twisting with flying clamps.
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2018
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  17. Wes

    Wes Semi-Pro

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    More than likely, this is the result of you not tying your knots particularly well - meaning you're allowing extra slack to slip back into the frame.
    Anytime you tie off, the preceding string(s) are going to lose a bit of tension. Exactly how much you lose is dependent on your skill at tying knots and minimizing the amount of slack/drawback.
    First, make sure you are using good tie-off technique to reduce slack/drawback.
    Secondly, if it's still an issue... try increasing your tension on the final string(s) prior to tying off.
     
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  18. Wes

    Wes Semi-Pro

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    Yes, it is possible, but I really wouldn't recommend it in this case. I would suggest you stick to using the 2pc. method.

    Since you have flying clamps, many ATW patterns (for example, the Universal ATW) would be problematic for you (since, oftentimes, you need to clamp a single string that doesn't have a neighboring (parallel) string next to it yet.

    Now, with only 2 flying clamps and no starting clamp, you can use the "generic" ATW (see below), but you wouldn't really be gaining any benefit.
    With the Ultra Tour, both outer mains would still be preceding your tie-offs, so you'd still have the same issues with losing tension on those outer mains.


    With only 2 flying clamps, it also would be possible to use the UKRSA ATW (since there would always be a parallel string you could clamp to), but I wouldn't use/recommend the UKRSA ATW on the Ultra Tour because of the transition between 10T and 11T. There is only a small amount of graphite between these two grommets, and I certainly wouldn't feel good about the transition that would be occurring at that location (which would be the 19th cross transitioning to the outer main [9th] on the Long Side).

    Again, stick with the 2pc. method and improve on your knots/increase tension prior to tie-offs.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    For future readers... who use a machine with fixed clamps...
    With the Ultra Tour, in my opinion, the Universal ATW (see links below) is virtually ideal and would be the ATW I would choose for this particular frame.
    1. All main/cross transitions are well supported with a good amount of graphite between requisite grommets.
    2. There will be only one blocked hole (10H on the Long Side) and that can even be prevented completely (by installing, but not yet tensioning the Long Side's 9th [outer] main, the bottom (20th) cross, the Short Side's 9th [outer] main, and lastly the 2nd cross. Now that the 2nd cross is exiting the 10H grommet, it won't be blocked at all. Now go back and tension them in the same order [9th LS main, 20th cross, 9th SS main, 2nd cross, 3rd cross, etc.]).
    3. Tie-off locations are already very close by (top cross will exit 8H and tie-off is at 6H)(19th cross will exit 11T and tie-off is at 12T).


     
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  19. onarj

    onarj New User

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    Thanks a lot Wes. I think I will stick to two-piece then and trying to improve my knots. If you have any good youtube video guides for this please feel free to share :) Much appreciate your help!

    One last question - will it make sense to buy a starting clamp in order to do the ATW?
     
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  20. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    I would agree with that but if you’re trying to string the WUT 1 piece why not just use Wilson’s recommended pattern? Normally I string rackets 2 piece but there are times when I use ATW patterns. When there is a racket with less than 2 skips on either the head or throat I generally do not consider it for ATW because you will have a section of the frame supporting a transition that is less than normal. What advantage does ATW give you over 2 piece?
     
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  21. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Yes. It makes sense to buy a starting clamp for 2 piece. When you tension the outer main hold it with your starting clamp to free up both flying clamp then you can put both clamps on the outer three main to prevent the clamps from twisting.
     
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  22. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    You would not do a UKRSA ATW on the WUT because of the short section of graphite between 11T and 10T. But you would do a universal ATW that has two just as short sections from 9H to 8H and 10H to 11H? If I were going to pick and choose i’d Rather have 1 short section at the bottom than 2 on top.
     
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  23. Wes

    Wes Semi-Pro

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    @YULitle has some. Here's one...


    @Richard Parnell has a few (specifically for the Parnell Knot)



    @Irvin has many different videos regarding knots/drawback, here's a couple of good ones...



    Well... a starting clamp is an excellent purchase. It is used for many different things (tightening knots, starting mains [either directly, or as a back-up to the machine's clamp], starting crosses [when doing 2pc.], serving as a "bridge" or "jumper" to the tensioner when a string is a little too short, and for many ATW patterns you need to have one).
    You also can use it in the manner that Irvin described above.

    However, even if you had/purchase a starting clamp, I don't think you want to do an ATW pattern on your Ultra Tour, because of the flying clamps.
    The one ATW pattern (the "generic" one), that you could even feasibly do, doesn't even need a starting clamp (plus you'd still be tying off those outer mains anyway).
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2018
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  24. Wes

    Wes Semi-Pro

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    You're incorrect.
    The amount of graphite/spacing is not the same, in those 2 locations, as it is between 11T and 10T.

    The distance between 11T and 10T is closer (and, with the UKRSA ATW, also would have to support a 270 degree turn).
    9H to 8H and 11H to 10H have more space (and, with the Universal ATW, only need to make a 90 degree turn).
    Furthermore... when using the Universal ATW on the Ultra Tour, all of the transitions are 90 degree turns. None of them are a 270 degree turn.
     
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  25. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    Sure there’s a difference
    [​IMG]
     
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  26. am1899

    am1899 Professional

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    To throw another wrinkle in this - I no longer use the UKRSA ATW pattern. Here’s why:

    If a customer requested 1pc on this frame, I would be inclined to use the Universal ATW pattern on it, as @Wes recommended.

    If the customer did not specify 2 knots, then I would string it 2pc, and tie off at the mfg recommended tie offs. Sure, you’ll have a couple busy areas at the throat where the mains tie off. And you’ll have a semi blocked hole to deal with as you get to the end of the crosses. That should really only be a pain if the cross string you are installing is very soft and fragile...and even then, if you can cut the tip to a sharp point, with some patience it should be able to be fed through. For the record - I’m not speculating. I strung a demo of this exact frame back when it came out - and i did string it 2pc, as i outlined above. As I recall, it wasn’t much of a problem.

    I also agree that a starting clamp is a great investment - whether or not you use it to help facilitate ATW patterns.
     
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  27. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    If a customer wanted a 1 piece I’d try to find out why. @onarj wants to string 1 piece because he has tension loss on the outer mains primarily because he has only 2 flying clamps. We all seem to be in agreement 2 piece is the best way to go, just fix the tension loss problem. When in doubt read the instructions.
     
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  28. jim e

    jim e Legend

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    I have yet to have someone ask me for a 1 or 2 piece string job.
    I assume most players have no idea of how to string and leave that up to the stringer, as the stringer SHOULD know what's best.
     
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  29. am1899

    am1899 Professional

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    Fair enough.

    I tend to err on side of giving the customer what they ask for - unless I can’t do it, or if it would be dangerous for some reason, in my judgement. It’s pretty rare though, that a customer of mine has specifically requested 2 knots. Which means i string a lot of racquets 2pc.
     
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  30. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    ^^I agree with you but if I were stringing that racket 1 piece I would string the first 6 mains on the short side normally, then use a Yonex loop for the 8th and 7th mains increasing tension on those 2 mains. I’d string the long side normally then the bottom cross and outside main on the short side. Then all crosses from the top down.

    Normally when you’re stringing an ATW pattern you have a hard weave on every other cross but not with my method. Weaving one ahead all even numbered crosses are ran from the long side to short side and go under the high strings and over the low strings. When weaving the odd crosses short side to long side I’m weaving closer to the odd string above it and go under the high and over the low. Never a hard weave. The Yonex loop and increase in tension on the 8th and 7th mains mitigate the tension loss on those mains.

    EDIT: I only have 2 guys that ask for 1 piece and both are coaches that generally bring reels and they think they use less string with 1 piece. They do bring me a lot of rackets though so I string a lot of 1 piece. When they bring sets they could care less.
     
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  31. am1899

    am1899 Professional

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    ^^ Sure, that would be another way to do it.

    I can count on one hand how many people have asked me for 2 knots - all but 1 were current or former ATP or WTA.
     
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  32. onarj

    onarj New User

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    Last edited: Aug 8, 2018
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  33. onarj

    onarj New User

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    Im pretty sure my clamps are tighten enough not to twist. This hasnt Really been an issue.
     
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  34. Irvin

    Irvin G.O.A.T.

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    @onarj no matter how tight or loose a single double flying clamp is it will twist. Clamp the two outer strings on a racket, when you remove the tensioner the outer string will draw back and the clamp will twist.
     
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