Wise owners-how to set up my new tensioner

[levy1]

I talked to Herb today after I purchased my Wise unit. He was very nice to me but I could not get him to understand what I wanted to accomplish with the new unit. All he kept saying is you will be a professional now with my unit!

I want to replicate the way I am stringing on my crank with my new Wise.

I want to pull my mains at 42lbs for 10 seconds.

On my crosses currently with my lockout I pull at 44lbs and keep it tensioned while I string the next cross with no clamps. Then I release the unit slightly without loosing tension and re-pull the string resulting in about a 1/2 inch more pull. Then I clamp and do it all again.

I do not understand how to setup the Wise to do the same thing. Should it be on Lockout or constant pull or both? Do I use the pre-stretch setting?

I need for someone to tell me the best way to do this with the Wise Tensioner. I don't care if it is not perfect, just the best way. Thanks

 

[mad dog1]

use the wise in CP mode. let it pull to 42 lbs then wait for 10 secs before clamping off. move onto the next string. repeat.

this is essentially what your method using the crank is trying to accomplish. you crank until the string is almost at the lockout tension and u let the string stretch and settle before cranking to lockout and clamping off.

 

[COPEY]

I would think you'd want it set to lockout, then simply do the same thing you were doing with a crank. As far as releasing and re-pulling without losing tension, I'm not sure if that's possible, but then I haven't owned mine for that long. Moreover, I've never tried to string using that particular method. I'd say no, it's not possible, but maybe someone with more experience will chime in. In fact, I'm sure they will. ;-)

 

[COPEY]

use the wise in CP mode. let it pull to 42 lbs then wait for 10 secs before clamping off. move onto the next string. repeat.

Why would he want the unit to continuously pull tension when that's not what his crank does?

 

[levy1]

I would think you'd want it set to lockout, then simply do the same thing you were doing with a crank. As far as releasing and re-pulling without losing tension, I'm not sure if that's possible, but then I haven't owned mine for that long. Moreover, I've never tried to string using that particular method. I'd say no, it's not possible, but maybe someone with more experience will chime in. In fact, I'm sure they will. ;-)

I don't want the unit to do the same as I am doing with my crosses. I cant expect it to pull twice. I want to know what way a Wise user would suggest for me to duplicate the best way to replicate what I am doing.

 

[mad dog1]

Why would he want the unit to continuously pull tension when that's not what his crank does?

that is essence what the re-pull is doing.

 

[levy1]

Why would he want the unit to continuously pull tension when that's not what his crank does?

I was thinking the same. Maybe a lockout setting with a stretch setting. I dont know.
BTW, I talked to Herb today about something I read in a post. He said if the machine was left on contact pull it would do it no harm. This doesn't have anything to do with my questions.

 

[mad dog1]

try what i suggested. if the string bed feels tighter, you can decrease the time you wait from 10 to 5 secs or whatever until u get the same feel as ur crank. u can also drop ur ref tension 0.5 or 1 lb if necessary.

 

[levy1]

try what i suggested. if the string bed feels tighter, you can decrease the time you wait from 10 to 5 secs or whatever until u get the same feel as ur crank. u can also drop ur ref tension 0.5 or 1 lb if necessary.

OK but you did not tell me what to do for the crosses.

 

[jim e]

Hello Fred. Congradulations on the Wise purchase.
Although I do not own a Wise, I do string on an electronic CP machine.
I do not use the jet method as you are doing but if I understand your question then..

It would seem to me that you would want to keep the machine on CP if you want to try and duplicate a continuous pull for 10 seconds. Once the pull is complete you hear the beep, the CP machine will keep on pulling so that is what you are asking for if I understand you correctly.

If you are looking for a CP for 10 seconds from beginning of pull just wait that amount of time from beginning, or if it is 10 seconds from end of pull then wait the 10 seconds from that point. then clamp off.If you use the lockout, then once that electronic machine pulls the reference tension, it is no longer pulling the string, and that is not what you are asking to do, so to pull for a contiouous 10 seconds I would use the constant pull feature and pull for the desired amount of time you are wanting. Just be sure that you know if the time amount is from the start of the pull or from when the pull initially accomplished when the beep occurs and time it appropriatly.

With a long 10 second crank you are basically pulling continuously for the 10 seconds, and there is no way you can duplicate that with the machine set on lockout as the machine will pull faster than the 10 seconds and then lockout, you would really need to set to CP and have it pull the time desired to accomplish the similar goal.It will be a little different as the pull is accomplished a little sooner with the electronic, but you can have it pull your reference tension at the end of the 10 seconds with the CP feature as it will not be doing that on lockout at the end of the 10 seconds, as said it will take some trial to get to your liking.There will always be some difference between a LO crank and CP with the technique you are using but it seems to me that this would produce the closest to what you would be looking for. Jim

 

[mad dog1]

I was thinking the same. Maybe a lockout setting with a stretch setting. I dont know.
BTW, I talked to Herb today about something I read in a post. He said if the machine was left on contact pull it would do it no harm. This doesn't have anything to do with my questions.

any time u introduce something new into the stringing process, it takes some trial and error and experimentation to get things dialed in again.

 

[COPEY]

----------------

 

[mad dog1]

OK but you did not tell me what to do for the crosses.

u're gonna need to experiment to find how the wise will get you the same results as the crank. i suggest u string up a stick using the crank. u can use this stick as ur reference. string up your back up stick using the wise using variants of what i suggested. make sure to keep a log so u know exactly how many secs you waited before clamping off. if the resulting string job feels tighter, reduce the time before u clamp off. u might find u need to lower tension by half or 1 lb but allow the string to sit for 12 secs before clamping off. i don't know the answer, and since I don't own a wise anymore, I can only offer suggestions.

Do remember to use the slowest speed when pulling tension.

 

[000KFACTOR90000]

Use the slowest of the 3 pull speeds Levy1.

A fishing scale can be usefull to compare the different tensioners too. (L/O crank vs wise CP)

 

[PBODY99]

two cents from another stringer......

In CP mode, 10 sec after beep for mains, clamp.
Cross pull, weave one ahead, re-pull, just as you do now.
Check you results. You have a baseline, any time adjustments should be easy to figure out.

 

[Irvin]

I talked to Herb today after I purchased my Wise unit. He was very nice to me but I could not get him to understand what I wanted to accomplish with the new unit. All he kept saying is you will be a professional now with my unit!

I want to replicate the way I am stringing on my crank with my new Wise.

I want to pull my mains at 42lbs for 10 seconds.

On my crosses currently with my lockout I pull at 44lbs and keep it tensioned while I string the next cross with no clamps. Then I release the unit slightly without loosing tension and re-pull the string resulting in about a 1/2 inch more pull. Then I clamp and do it all again.

I do not understand how to setup the Wise to do the same thing. Should it be on Lockout or constant pull or both? Do I use the pre-stretch setting?

I need for someone to tell me the best way to do this with the Wise Tensioner. I don't care if it is not perfect, just the best way. Thanks

Sounds to me you are doing the same thing John Elliott did at the GSS. But he was using a NEOS to replicate a CP. Now you are using a CP machine to replicate a crank.

Turn off constant pull and pull the mains at 42 lbs and clamp. The 10 second time does not matter. String your cross and tension as normal in lockout mode but don't clamp. String your next cross then hit the tensioner switch two times as fast as you can while holding tension on the string with your free hand.

You made a big mistake buying that Wise to do what you said you wanted to do in the original post.

EDIT: On the mains I said the 10 second time does not matter but after rethinking there is a difference. When you tension your mains for 10 seconds you are not allowing the string outside the frame to relax. Therefore, holding the tension for 10 seconds pre-stretches the next main. You may want to tension the mains and run the next main before releasing tension the same as you do the crosses just don't re-pull.

 

[COPEY]

Now you are using a CP machine to replicate a crank.

Interesting statement. It's no secret I don't know much about the JET/JayCee method, however, Irvin's suggestion seems to make sense to me. I (finally) understood what others were saying about setting the Wise to cp mode, but at the same time, it certainly stands to reason the results would be different, and it would take tinkering to figure out how to duplicate the results he was getting using the lockout, whereas Irvin's suggested technique seems closer to what he was actually doing pre-wise, would require less experimentation.

Levy may indeed find that feel he's looking for, in which case the time and effort will be well worth it. The irony in this situation is he was looking for a way to preclude spending a lot of time stringing, and now he's stuck in a predicament whereby he's going to spend a lot of time stringing (albeit with less time per racquet) trying to find that magical feel the JET technique affords him. The scary part is he may never find it. The differences between the two types of tensioning are such that using a wise won't afford him the results he was getting using a lockout. Hopefully he does, and for him maybe using the wise will make the time spent trying to figure out a little more enjoyable. Good luck!

Quick question Irvin - would using the diablo help using your method? What I mean is, could it potentially preclude the string from slipping out the gripper too fast?

 

[Irvin]

Interesting statement. It's no secret I don't know much about the JET/JayCee method, however, Irvin's suggestion seems to make sense to me. I (finally) understood what others were saying about setting the Wise to cp mode, but at the same time, it certainly stands to reason the results would be different, and it would take tinkering to figure out how to duplicate the results he was getting using the lockout, whereas Irvin's suggested technique seems closer to what he was actually doing pre-wise, would require less experimentation.

Levy may indeed find that feel he's looking for, in which case the time and effort will be well worth it. The irony in this situation is he was looking for a way to preclude spending a lot of time stringing, and now he's stuck in a predicament whereby he's going to spend a lot of time stringing (albeit with less time per racquet) trying to find that magical feel the JET technique affords him. The scary part is he may never find it. The differences between the two types of tensioning are such that using a wise won't afford him the results he was getting using a lockout. Hopefully he does, and for him maybe using the wise will make the time spent trying to figure out a little more enjoyable. Good luck!

Quick question Irvin - would using the gizmo that attaches to the tension head (can't recall the name) which takes stress of the string help using your method?

'levy1' is going to get upset with us for hijacking his thread - AGAIN! lol

I assume your question to me was concerning the diablo. If you have a Wise with 360 rotation I would highly recommend it.

The real irony of this thread is the JET method (John Elliot Technique method) was developed for a constant pull machine (Stringway.) But 'levy1' is using a lockout. So 'levy1' uses a method John Elliot showed at the symposium in Oct that I showed in Sept on YouTube with my Constant pull vs. lockout or crank video. When 'levy1' finds it takes too long to emulate a constant pull with a lockout 'levy1' goes out to get a constant pull tensioner to emulate a lockout which he is using to emulate a constant pull.

What I find funny is the JET method suggests you never pre-stretch string and always pull at slow speeds. 'levy1' is pre-stretching the string and never mentions you can get a 5 second slow pull out of the Wise.

 

[COPEY]

'levy1' is going to get upset with us for hijacking his thread - AGAIN! lol

Aside from a few related side comments this thread seems to be very much on point still. All I said was your suggestion rang true as being closer to what he was doing with his lockout. After posting a few thoughts, I wished him luck...and I do.

Anyway, I hear what you're saying, and thanks for clarifying!

 

[jim e]

The real irony of this thread is the JET method (John Elliot Technique method) was developed for a constant pull machine (Stringway.)

I remember that Elliot does use a Stringway and that is a CP machine. This is another reason to keep machine in CP mode and set to slowest pull speed.
Different machines just like different stringers will give subtle differences and some playing around will evidently need to be done to get close to what is desired.

Since Levy1 has a crank, he could use that for his own racquets as that will give him the desired end result he is looking for, and use the Wise for normal stringing of clients racquets.

 

[mad dog1]

...the JET method (John Elliot Technique method) was developed for a constant pull machine (Stringway.)

exactly why i recommended he use the wise in constant pull mode at the slowest speed.

 

[mad dog1]

Interesting statement. It's no secret I don't know much about the JET/JayCee method, however, Irvin's suggestion seems to make sense to me. I (finally) understood what others were saying about setting the Wise to cp mode, but at the same time, it certainly stands to reason the results would be different, and it would take tinkering to figure out how to duplicate the results he was getting using the lockout, whereas Irvin's suggested technique seems closer to what he was actually doing pre-wise, would require less experimentation.

Levy may indeed find that feel he's looking for, in which case the time and effort will be well worth it. The irony in this situation is he was looking for a way to preclude spending a lot of time stringing, and now he's stuck in a predicament whereby he's going to spend a lot of time stringing (albeit with less time per racquet) trying to find that magical feel the JET technique affords him. The scary part is he may never find it. The differences between the two types of tensioning are such that using a wise won't afford him the results he was getting using a lockout. Hopefully he does, and for him maybe using the wise will make the time spent trying to figure out a little more enjoyable. Good luck!

there's a potential upside to Levy1 experimenting in CP mode. he may discover that he likes the feel of the string job in CP mode more than the mini JET method adapted for lockout. just because he likes the mini JET crank method doesn't mean he won't find something that feels even better. after all, Levy1 is still rather new to stringing.

 

[Irvin]

^^You have to realize the OP thinks most Constant Pull stringers have 10% to 18% overshoot and that much overshoot will overstretch poly strings. Little does he realize the overshoot on a Wise is about 0.2%.

 

[levy1]

Sounds to me you are doing the same thing John Elliott did at the GSS. But he was using a NEOS to replicate a CP. Now you are using a CP machine to replicate a crank.

Turn off constant pull and pull the mains at 42 lbs and clamp. The 10 second time does not matter. String your cross and tension as normal in lockout mode but don't clamp. String your next cross then hit the tensioner switch two times as fast as you can while holding tension on the string with your free hand.

You made a big mistake buying that Wise to do what you said you wanted to do in the original post.

EDIT: On the mains I said the 10 second time does not matter but after rethinking there is a difference. When you tension your mains for 10 seconds you are not allowing the string outside the frame to relax. Therefore, holding the tension for 10 seconds pre-stretches the next main. You may want to tension the mains and run the next main before releasing tension the same as you do the crosses just don't re-pull.

Thanks Irvin. I respect your opinion and continue to learn from you. I was timing myself using the crank. I was going anywhere from 16 seconds to 30 seconds. I did not have the money to buy a different machine. I thought my inconsistently in stringing could be vastly improved with the Wise which fit in my budget. My thinking was even though the method was not the best for the Jet technique the rackets would at least be more consistent and a better string job. Why don't you think this might be a better string job compared to what I was doing?

 

[levy1]

Sounds to me you are doing the same thing John Elliott did at the GSS. But he was using a NEOS to replicate a CP. Now you are using a CP machine to replicate a crank.

Turn off constant pull and pull the mains at 42 lbs and clamp. The 10 second time does not matter. String your cross and tension as normal in lockout mode but don't clamp. String your next cross then hit the tensioner switch two times as fast as you can while holding tension on the string with your free hand.

You made a big mistake buying that Wise to do what you said you wanted to do in the original post.

EDIT: On the mains I said the 10 second time does not matter but after rethinking there is a difference. When you tension your mains for 10 seconds you are not allowing the string outside the frame to relax. Therefore, holding the tension for 10 seconds pre-stretches the next main. You may want to tension the mains and run the next main before releasing tension the same as you do the crosses just don't re-pull.

Yes, that is correct. He was out to prove that he could do the Jet method as well on a crank as a cp and he proved it. I am not John and I have only been stringing for about 8 months and to be frank I have learned more from you then anyone. I tried the string and Jet method and really like the results so I am trying my best to string as consistent as possible.

 

[levy1]

'levy1' is going to get upset with us for hijacking his thread - AGAIN! lol

I assume your question to me was concerning the diablo. If you have a Wise with 360 rotation I would highly recommend it.

The real irony of this thread is the JET method (John Elliot Technique method) was developed for a constant pull machine (Stringway.) But 'levy1' is using a lockout. So 'levy1' uses a method John Elliot showed at the symposium in Oct that I showed in Sept on YouTube with my Constant pull vs. lockout or crank video. When 'levy1' finds it takes too long to emulate a constant pull with a lockout 'levy1' goes out to get a constant pull tensioner to emulate a lockout which he is using to emulate a constant pull.

What I find funny is the JET method suggests you never pre-stretch string and always pull at slow speeds. 'levy1' is pre-stretching the string and never mentions you can get a 5 second slow pull out of the Wise.

I do not understand your statement about the 5 second slow pull out of the Wise. I have no idea how to use the Wise and it wont arrive for a few days. Herb at Wise could not help me so I posted. As for speed, sure it would be great to be faster with this method but what I am looking for is better consistence which I am thinking would be a better string job.

 

[jim e]

I do not understand your statement about the 5 second slow pull out of the Wise.

Evidently the wise must have a speed selector button, (I know my machine does but is not a wise) ,
With that you can set it to slow, normal, or fast, for tension pulling speed.
If you set it to the slowest speed on CP that should give you better consistancy than hand cranking it between 16 seconds and 30 seconds as that is all over the place.It should also speed up you time a good deal.

 

[Irvin]

...Why don't you think this might be a better string job compared to what I was doing?

I do think you can get a more consistent job compared to what you were doing. I just can't understand why you are using your constant pull to emulate a lockout. The JET method was designed for a constant pull that does not have much overshoot and you have it in the Wise. Why not string with the Wise as a constant pull?

Yes, that is correct. He was out to prove that he could do the Jet method as well on a crank as a cp and he proved it. I am not John and I have only been stringing for about 8 months and to be frank I have learned more from you then anyone. I tried the string and Jet method and really like the results so I am trying my best to string as consistent as possible.

When using the JET method you need to string poly and low tensions and I agree with that. Luxilon (I believe) recommends you string poly 10% to 15% below normal tensions. I myself think the tension needs to be more like 10% to even as low as 20% lower if you are using full bed poly. But it all depends on the player some are just not going to like those low tensions. There are a lot of pros that string at much higher tensions and I am not the one that should say they shouldn't.

I do not understand your statement about the 5 second slow pull out of the Wise. I have no idea how to use the Wise and it wont arrive for a few days. Herb at Wise could not help me so I posted. As for speed, sure it would be great to be faster with this method but what I am looking for is better consistence which I am thinking would be a better string job.

When you pull tension with a Wise it will pull from 2 (speed 3) to 5 (speed 1) seconds to get to full tension. But the speed to pull at is more determined by the tension you want to pull at. I have no idea how it should work but at lower tensions (below 50) I would use the lower speed (speed 1) 50 to 60 speed 2 and 60 and up at high speed (speed 3.) If you pull too high a tension at a lower speed you will start getting errors. I think it has something to do with timing but there is nothing that tells me that. I am just guessing. I think it takes too long to reach the high tension on the slow speed the the unit 'times out' before the tension is reached.

Anyway if you set your speed to 1 and pull tension it will takes about 5 second to reach the reference tension. Then you can run your next mains and clamp off. In that time more than 10 seconds has elapsed and you should be ready to tension the next string if that is what you want to do.

 

[jim e]

Anyway if you set your speed to 1 and pull tension it will takes about 5 second to reach the reference tension. Then you can run your next mains and clamp off. In that time more than 10 seconds has elapsed and you should be ready to tension the next string if that is what you want to do.

I would think that with the way you described it in above sentence , there could be a considerable time difference between when different strings are clamped if you wait till the next string is weaved or run the next main. Would it not be more consistant to clamp the string at approx. the same time interval each time?
After all consistancy is what it is all about.

 

[Irvin]

I would think that with the way you described it in above sentance , there could be a considerable time difference between when different strings are clamped if you wait till the next string is weaved or run the next main. Would it not be more consistant to clamp the string at approx. the same time interval each time?
After all consistancy is what it is all about.

Absolutely 'jim e' but I was trying to follow with what the OP said he wanted to do. I do not like to pre-stretch poly string. When you pull tension you not only tension the string inside the frame but you tenison the string outside the frame between the frame and the tension gripper. Clamping before you run the next string gives the string at least some time to relax and will give you a more consistent job.

 

[levy1]

I do think you can get a more consistent job compared to what you were doing. I just can't understand why you are using your constant pull to emulate a lockout. The JET method was designed for a constant pull that does not have much overshoot and you have it in the Wise. Why not string with the Wise as a constant pull?



When using the JET method you need to string poly and low tensions and I agree with that. Luxilon (I believe) recommends you string poly 10% to 15% below normal tensions. I myself think the tension needs to be more like 10% to even as low as 20% lower if you are using full bed poly. But it all depends on the player some are just not going to like those low tensions. There are a lot of pros that string at much higher tensions and I am not the one that should say they shouldn't.



When you pull tension with a Wise it will pull from 2 (speed 3) to 5 (speed 1) seconds to get to full tension. But the speed to pull at is more determined by the tension you want to pull at. I have no idea how it should work but at lower tensions (below 50) I would use the lower speed (speed 1) 50 to 60 speed 2 and 60 and up at high speed (speed 3.) If you pull too high a tension at a lower speed you will start getting errors. I think it has something to do with timing but there is nothing that tells me that. I am just guessing. I think it takes too long to reach the high tension on the slow speed the the unit 'times out' before the tension is reached.

Anyway if you set your speed to 1 and pull tension it will takes about 5 second to reach the reference tension. Then you can run your next mains and clamp off. In that time more than 10 seconds has elapsed and you should be ready to tension the next string if that is what you want to do.

Being new I am a little confused but I am learning. The only info I knew about a Wise was I could use it in CP or Lockout. I do not care which one and one of my questions was which setting to use. I am just trying for consistence.
Do I understand from you to
1. Mains Us CP on 3
2. Crosses?

 

[Irvin]

Being new I am a little confused but I am learning. The only info I knew about a Wise was I could use it in CP or Lockout. I do not care which one and one of my questions was which setting to use. I am just trying for consistence.
Do I understand from you to
1. Mains Us CP on 3
2. Crosses?

I would use CP all the time. As long as you are using low tensions (below 50) you should be ok to pull as slow as you want with the Wise. Only if you start getting errors do you want to up the speed. Pulling poly at slower speeds may keep poly from shearing I have no idea but it stands to reason. If you want to pull for longer periods I think that would be OK. Herb said it should not hurt the tensioner and you have a 2 year guarantee so what do you have to lose?

 

[levy1]

So you do not think I should string any different for the crosses?

I just measured my two of my matching rackets with a string meter.

1. with about 28 hours of play; Mains
31 46 45 46 46 49 49 44 44 45 46 48 45 46 45 36

2. with about 5 hours of play; Mains
33 42 45 50 50 50 46 46 50 52 50 51 46 46 44 32

Last mains were strung with 1lb extra

 

[000KFACTOR90000]

I would use CP all the time. As long as you are using low tensions (below 50) you should be ok to pull as slow as you want with the Wise. Only if you start getting errors do you want to up the speed. Pulling poly at slower speeds may keep poly from shearing I have no idea but it stands to reason. If you want to pull for longer periods I think that would be OK. Herb said it should not hurt the tensioner and you have a 2 year guarantee so what do you have to lose?

I always use the slowest speed and never had a problem with a wide range of tensions.

 

[000KFACTOR90000]

...............................

 

[Irvin]

Stuff happens

I always use the slowest speed and never had a problem with a wide range of tensions.

I've been driving cars for over 50 years in all kinds of conditions and I have never been involved in a fatal accident. I did have one minor fender bender when someone ran into me. Therefore, it must be impossible get hurt in car wreck.

There are also some people that pull tension with a Wise using the brake to string Prince rackets and never have a problem. Then there is some that do.

There are millions of people that drives across bridges and never have a problem. Then one day the bridge just falls.

 

[000KFACTOR90000]

I've been driving cars for over 50 years in all kinds of conditions and I have never been involved in a fatal accident. I did have one minor fender bender when someone ran into me. Therefore, it must be impossible get hurt in car wreck.

There are also some people that pull tension with a Wise using the brake to string Prince rackets and never have a problem. Then there is some that do.

There are millions of people that drives across bridges and never have a problem. Then one day the bridge just falls.

what do you call a dead lawyer - a good start

I do know there are obvious issues with prince racquets and the brake so I 50/50 them but never heard of an issue with using the slow setting on the Wise. (Maybe Herb can let us know if it's ever been an issue beyond warranty periods)

 

[Irvin]

what do you call a dead lawyer - a good start

I do know there are obvious issues with prince racquets and the brake so I 50/50 them but never heard of an issue with using the slow setting on the Wise. (Maybe Herb can let us know if it's ever been an issue beyond warranty periods)

Well maybe he can. He let me know when I sent mine back and there was nothing wrong with it except it was on the slow setting. I paid shipping both ways to find out.

BTW, have you ever seen Herb provide any information either on this forum or in the form of an owner's manual.

 

[000KFACTOR90000]

Well maybe he can. He let me know when I sent mine back and there was nothing wrong with it except it was on the slow setting. I paid shipping both ways to find out.

Duly noted

BTW, have you ever seen Herb provide any information either on this forum or in the form of an owner's manual.

No unfortunately Irvin. Third parties only that have had maintenance issues or have had phone discussions with him.

I just checked tennis head dot com and while it has been updated with a 'herbs blog' section it doesn't appear very active or provide any owners manual.

 

[levy1]

Received a mini owners manual in the mail on Thursday and the machine on Friday. The manual is very limited and I had to call Herb for a few questions. He made the remark about he doesn't understand why I cant just read the manual. I told him it was because he was smarter then everyone else and he immediately became receptive to my questions.

Strung my racket on speed 1 and constant pull. The racket played fabulous. A couple of questions.

How far back do you have the Wise mounted and does it matter?

I lost the 360 degree rotation and it was no big deal but the string does not line up in the gripper. I need to press the string down in the gripper or it will only grab at the rear corner. Any cure for this?

Unit is sweet. At #1 setting and lbs at 42 it immediately pulls to about 37lbs and then slowly goes to 42. It will sit on 41.9 or 41.8 sometimes. I am enjoying it and the racket with L-Tec strings.

 

[mad dog1]

Received a mini owners manual in the mail on Thursday and the machine on Friday. The manual is very limited and I had to call Herb for a few questions. He made the remark about he doesn't understand why I cant just read the manual. I told him it was because he was smarter then everyone else and he immediately became receptive to my questions.

Strung my racket on speed 1 and constant pull. The racket played fabulous. A couple of questions.

How far back do you have the Wise mounted and does it matter?

I lost the 360 degree rotation and it was no big deal but the string does not line up in the gripper. I need to press the string down in the gripper or it will only grab at the rear corner. Any cure for this?

Unit is sweet. At #1 setting and lbs at 42 it immediately pulls to about 37lbs and then slowly goes to 42. It will sit on 41.9 or 41.8 sometimes. I am enjoying it and the racket with L-Tec strings.

typical herb. once he's made his money, there's much less motivation for him to be nice. did you read the manual?

so how does the racket strung using CP mode compare to the LO crank mode using Mini Jet? since you said it's fabulous, i guess it was as good or better.

INSTALL THE DIABLO. the diablo allows the string to sit in the gripper at the same angle.

 

[Irvin]

Well to begin with you got an owner's manual? Hummm I'm mad. LOL Yours is different from mine with tension at 42 on speed one mine pull rather quickly up to 30 lbs then it stops for a second then slowly pulls up to 42 pounds.

I put my Wise so my turntable is about and inch away at it closest point.

When you say your string only grabs in the back I am wondering if you have a diablo. The diablos on the Wise were an after thought. Sounds like when you wrap the string around the diablo it is making the string go at an angle through the gripper.

 

[levy1]

typical herb. once he's made his money, there's much less motivation for him to be nice. did you read the manual?

so how does the racket strung using CP mode compare to the LO crank mode using Mini Jet? since you said it's fabulous, i guess it was as good or better.

INSTALL THE DIABLO. the diablo allows the string to sit in the gripper at the same angle.

I can only tell you the racket played even better. But is was strung 2lbs less. It went very smooth compared with the crank and much easier. The string does not lay down in the gripper. It is high in the front towards the racket and low in the rear of the gripper. If I pull the string into the gripper it only catches in the back corner. I have to take a different finger and push the string down in the front to make it lay in the gripper correctly. I am not using the diablo as I was told to only use it for gut. Will it line up the string better and how do you use it?

 

[mad dog1]

I can only tell you the racket played even better. But is was strung 2lbs less. It went very smooth compared with the crank and much easier. The string does not lay down in the gripper. It is high in the front towards the racket and low in the rear of the gripper. If I pull the string into the gripper it only catches in the back corner. I have to take a different finger and push the string down in the front to make it lay in the gripper correctly. I am not using the diablo as I was told to only use it for gut. Will it line up the string better and how do you use it?

not surprising. CP makes is much easier to get consistent results, allows you to string a few lbs lower and get better feel/playability than LO. i believe i mentioned you might be able to drop a few lbs w/ CP vs LO, but would have to experiment to find the perfect tension for you. sometimes you just have to try and that's the nice thing about having your own machine. you can try different things easily and relatively inexpensively.

install the diablo and see for yourself. you loop the string around the diablo. take the string over the diablo, then around it once and place it in the gripper. aren't there instructions in the manual?

 

[Irvin]

It sound like you are still below the level of the string bed pulling tension but the Wise is too high to pass the racket for 360. Since the lever of the gripper is below the string bed when you push the string down the angle of the string going into the gripper from the racket will change when you apply tension. If you are using gut string and they slip a little you have messed up your strings. So as an after thought Herb uses a diablo to correct the situation. I don't use the diablo because I have a spacer that raised my Wise up to the level of the string bed so all is will. That was the work around for the Gamma machines.

I would put the diablo on and see what is best for you. I think you will have the same issue maybe worse with the diablo. It all depends on what level the diablo put the string going in and out of the gripper. The string should lay in the gripper all the way through at the same level as the point where it leaves the diablo.

 

[mad dog1]

levy1, the diablo insures that the angle of the string entering the gripper is the same regardless of where you set up the Wise tension head. install it and you'll see what i mean.

 

[jim e]

Mad Dog is correct.
I use a diablo with all strings, as Mad Dog said,The string will enter the jaws at the same angulation each time with a diablo.
Also with the diablo, you will not be pulling at a sharp angle to the edge of the tension jaws as well.
Also the diablo takes most of the tension off the linnear tension plates as well.

Another nice thing about a diablo, especially when stringing more delicate strings like thin multi or nat. gut is I wrap the string around the diablo a second time if for any reason I need to repull a string a second time, like when removing a starting clamp, as this way the tension jaws will not be in the same place on the string twice for the pull.

Even though I do not use a Wise, I know that a while back the Wise never had a diablo, and many stringers were wanting this feature, some stringers even made their own diablo, and another manufacturer starting selling an after market add on Diablo for many machines, so Wise then started offering one. Use it and you will see why it is a nice item to have.

 

[Irvin]

^^I agree with you 'jim e' and 'mad dog1' if the top of the diablo is even with the center of the gripper and I can only assume it is.

 

[A Defenseless Creature]

I would not suggest using a diablo with poly regardless of the machine.

 

[Irvin]

^^Why not?