Switching from full poly to a multi/poly hybrid

Right now my current set up is

Racket: RF97a
Strings: TF Black Code 4S @ 50lb or GrappleSnake CES Neon Dust/Liquid Neon Hybrid @ 47/50lb

I play great with this setup, except it tends to hurt my shoulder/elbow quite a bit, especially after serving a lot.

When I play, I tend to hit a bit lower/flatter.


So I'm thinking of switching to a multifilament (mains)/ poly (crosses) hybrid. Right now I'm looking at the TF X-1 Biphase as my mains, and the GrappleSnake Irukanji or TF Pro Red Code Wax as my crosses. Which tension should I string it at? I was considering something like 53lb mains and 50lb crosses, but idk if that would still be too powerful or not. I'm looking for a tension combination that still gives me decently good spin, and good control (I can supply the power myself), but is just mainly more comfortable than my current setups.

Thanks!
 

OldschoolKIaus

Hall of Fame
X-1 is quite powerful, so I suggest at least 55. Cross should be fine at 50. But it's always hard to say as everybody feels different about strings and tension. Just give it a try.

Btw: good video, nice tennis!
 
X-1 is quite powerful, so I suggest at least 55. Cross should be fine at 50. But it's always hard to say as everybody feels different about strings and tension. Just give it a try.

Btw: good video, nice tennis!

Is there a limit to a tension differential between the mains/crosses? I'm just worried about the frame warping or something if it's too different.

PS: thanks!
 

OldschoolKIaus

Hall of Fame
Is there a limit to a tension differential between the mains/crosses? I'm just worried about the frame warping or something if it's too different.

PS: thanks!

I guess 5 lbs. shouldn't be a problem (I always use multi/poly at 4 or 5 lbs diff and from what I read here in string section, it's fairly popular).

But of course you can try a more conventional tension differential for a first try and start adjusting from there on. It's all in the player's hand.

Acutally, I going to test Irukanji as cross for multi too. Sounds lile a very interesting string.
 

fjcamry

Semi-Pro
Would it be bad to have such a large tension difference between the mains/crosses?

It’s only 6-5 lbs differential. That’s the upper limit of 4 lbs differential for most. It’s quite good launch angle and control on the mains .


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USPTARF97

Hall of Fame
Been using the RF97’s since they came out. Tried Multi/poly and the playability was great but only got 3-4 hrs out of the set up. NXT/Alu at 53/50-54/51. It became more cost effective to use Gut/poly and get 8-10hrs. Playability increased exponentially as well. I’m at $17 a frame with Gut/poly.
 
Been using the RF97’s since they came out. Tried Multi/poly and the playability was great but only got 3-4 hrs out of the set up. NXT/Alu at 53/50-54/51. It became more cost effective to use Gut/poly and get 8-10hrs. Playability increased exponentially as well. I’m at $17 a frame with Gut/poly.

Is the most cost effective part factoring stringing costs?

It’s only 6-5 lbs differential. That’s the upper limit of 4 lbs differential for most. It’s quite good launch angle and control on the mains .

Sorry I didn't quite understand your post here. You suggested a 6-5 lb differential, but then said there was an upper limit of 4lb differential for most?
 

USPTARF97

Hall of Fame
Is the most cost effective part factoring stringing costs?

I string my own frames but the difference in price of the mains is $10 Multi vs $15 Natural Gut. Hard to justify buying quality multi mains when for $5 more you can have Natural Gut mains that last twice as long and the playability is much better.

Sorry I didn't quite understand your post here. You suggested a 6-5 lb differential, but then said there was an upper limit of 4lb differential for most?
 

I see, thanks!

On a different note, if I pair x-1 with the slick poly cross, should I expect the x-1 to snap back to a straight line without having to adjust? Just asking because when I asked full bed of 4S, I would restring once i noticed the strings had to be adjusted again to be straight.
 

fjcamry

Semi-Pro
I see, thanks!

On a different note, if I pair x-1 with the slick poly cross, should I expect the x-1 to snap back to a straight line without having to adjust? Just asking because when I asked full bed of 4S, I would restring once i noticed the strings had to be adjusted again to be straight.

Yes it depends on the string . A string like 4g is stiff and mostly doesn’t move unless it’s loss of tension


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fjcamry

Semi-Pro
Is the most cost effective part factoring stringing costs?



Sorry I didn't quite understand your post here. You suggested a 6-5 lb differential, but then said there was an upper limit of 4lb differential for most?

Yes if I string at 58/52 it feels durable enough during winter . When summer I plan to string at 58/53 or 58/54 to hold tension better on my 18L poly crosses. See the pattern ? 6,5,4 lbs differential. I started at 6lbs differential at winter . It’s makes the string bed lively and sweet spot larger .


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Yes it depends on the string . A string like 4g is stiff and mostly doesn’t move unless it’s loss of tension


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I thought the polys didn't move outta place unless they were dead. So would that kinda assumption still be correct in a multi/poly hybrid?
 

fjcamry

Semi-Pro
I thought the polys didn't move outta place unless they were dead. So would that kinda assumption still be correct in a multi/poly hybrid?

Yes that too . My 18L poly crosses don’t move unless dead . My 16g syngut multi mains have great snap back when I can move them freely in place and feel tension on the mains . Also if you cut the string and find tension still on it , then it would be just the string loosing tension and not yet dead .


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spun_out

Semi-Pro
Right now my current set up is

Racket: RF97a
Strings: TF Black Code 4S @ 50lb or GrappleSnake CES Neon Dust/Liquid Neon Hybrid @ 47/50lb

I play great with this setup, except it tends to hurt my shoulder/elbow quite a bit, especially after serving a lot.

When I play, I tend to hit a bit lower/flatter.


So I'm thinking of switching to a multifilament (mains)/ poly (crosses) hybrid. Right now I'm looking at the TF X-1 Biphase as my mains, and the GrappleSnake Irukanji or TF Pro Red Code Wax as my crosses. Which tension should I string it at? I was considering something like 53lb mains and 50lb crosses, but idk if that would still be too powerful or not. I'm looking for a tension combination that still gives me decently good spin, and good control (I can supply the power myself), but is just mainly more comfortable than my current setups.

Thanks!

it seems like you are hitting pretty hard. wouldn't you shred the multi in a few hours? x-1 is really easy to shred, too. i would try velocity instead.

i know this isn't the tips forum, but i think that fixing your serve technique will take you a long way in terms of getting rid of shoulder/elbow pain. you are basically pancaking your serve using the whole kinetic chain. proper serves should see the palm of your serving hand pointing toward the right fence after contact. your hand doesn't seem to do this.
 
it seems like you are hitting pretty hard. wouldn't you shred the multi in a few hours? x-1 is really easy to shred, too. i would try velocity instead.

i know this isn't the tips forum, but i think that fixing your serve technique will take you a long way in terms of getting rid of shoulder/elbow pain. you are basically pancaking your serve using the whole kinetic chain. proper serves should see the palm of your serving hand pointing toward the right fence after contact. your hand doesn't seem to do this.

The last time I played with x-1 like 2 years ago, I broke it in like 10-12 hours i think, which seems about the same amount of time that I keep my polys in. I don't mind restringing more often.

I agree with fixing my serve technique, tho I disagree with the pancaking part.


If you go frame by frame from that timestamp, (using "." to go forward a frame, and "," to go back a frame) you can see that I do actually pronate and my palm does face the right fence for a bit after contact.

The main issue I'm having on my serve is that my trophy position goes a bit higher than it's supposed to when I serve naturally, and I suspect that to be why my shoulder to be hurting. But since i've been serving like that for awhile, I figure it'll take awhile to unlearn that habit, so softer strings are like a temporary stopgap for me right now till i can fix that issue.
 

spun_out

Semi-Pro
The last time I played with x-1 like 2 years ago, I broke it in like 10-12 hours i think, which seems about the same amount of time that I keep my polys in. I don't mind restringing more often.

I agree with fixing my serve technique, tho I disagree with the pancaking part.


If you go frame by frame from that timestamp, (using "." to go forward a frame, and "," to go back a frame) you can see that I do actually pronate and my palm does face the right fence for a bit after contact.

The main issue I'm having on my serve is that my trophy position goes a bit higher than it's supposed to when I serve naturally, and I suspect that to be why my shoulder to be hurting. But since i've been serving like that for awhile, I figure it'll take awhile to unlearn that habit, so softer strings are like a temporary stopgap for me right now till i can fix that issue.

that one at 2:00 minute, yes. but the one i checked, you weren't. or rather, i think that you are fully pronated before contact in some of your first serves and hitting the ball as the racquet face is traveling toward the target.

anyways, if the serve is causing the pain, and the issue is what you describe, then i don't think that switching strings will help since it's not about harsh impact.
 

fjcamry

Semi-Pro
that one at 2:00 minute, yes. but the one i checked, you weren't. or rather, i think that you are fully pronated before contact in some of your first serves and hitting the ball as the racquet face is traveling toward the target.

anyways, if the serve is causing the pain, and the issue is what you describe, then i don't think that switching strings will help since it's not about harsh impact.

Ok it’s not the pronation that is causing the problem . The problem is you’re serving from the shoulder to generate power . I want you to first practice your toss with your back facing the back tarp . Next slowly start your racquet drop while brushing the tip of your racquet against the back tarp as you toss your ball . This is catch and release drill . Don’t hit the ball only catch your toss and focus on the leg drive on this drill . Important to make the contact with the back tarp with your racket to activate your palm and forearm . You should be feeling your leg drive and then your racquet drop on the back tarp . This will fix your problem because you don’t have a clue what’s going on with the racquet in your back as you drive up towards the toss .


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USPTARF97

Hall of Fame
That one handed slice backhand is enough to give you shoulder and elbow problems. Serving having that little of flexibility in your arm and accelerating up to the ball with your elbow only slightly bent is rough on the shoulder. Katerina Saniakova WTA has an issue with this on her serve if you want to see an example.
 
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Ok it’s not the pronation that is causing the problem . The problem is you’re serving from the shoulder to generate power . I want you to first practice your toss with your back facing the back tarp . Next slowly start your racquet drop while brushing the tip of your racquet against the back tarp as you toss your ball . This is catch and release drill . Don’t hit the ball only catch your toss and focus on the leg drive on this drill . Important to make the contact with the back tarp with your racket to activate your palm and forearm . You should be feeling your leg drive and then your racquet drop on the back tarp . This will fix your problem because you don’t have a clue what’s going on with the racquet in your back as you drive up towards the toss .

Hm ok, I'll give this drill a try.

That one handed slice backhand is enough to give you shoulder and elbow problems. Serving having that little of flexibility in your arm and accelerating up to the ball with your elbow only slightly bent is rough on the shoulder. Katerina Saniakova WTA has an issue with this on her serve if you want to see an example.

Have to say, that's the first time I heard someone mention it might be my slice. I just looked at a video of Katerina's serve, and yeah I can see how how her elbow is slightly bent kinda like mine. Though it doesn't look like she raises her elbow as much as mine ends up.

On that note tho, I do have a thread about improving my serve that contains some slow motion videos of it... https://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/tips-for-my-serve.635611/page-2

Would greatly appreciate if you both took a look and post there if you have further tips!
 

USPTARF97

Hall of Fame
The serving video in the previous thread looked better than the serving in this thread. Instead of squatting down with your knees coming apart and your shoulders flat..push your left hip forward as your tossing arm goes up which will also assist in rocking your shoulders back a bit. The power will come from the ground up, through the legs, rotating the hips and shoulders, creating more racquet head speed provided your arm is relaxed. (Kinetic Chain). Try relaxing your grip even serving some with your little finger off of the butt of the grip. You should come off of the ground and land inside the court on your left foot. If that doesn’t happen move your toss out in front just a bit. Cheers.
 
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USPTARF97

Hall of Fame
Your serving style isn’t too far off from Federer. Look at a slow motion of him serving and look at the hips moving forward toward the baseline and the rocking back of the shoulders. Accelerating upward and landing in the court on the left foot. Now you just need to hit a few thousand serves and you’ll have it. All the best.
 
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