Ektelon H questions for you owners out there

[strcmp]

Hi

Just a few questions about an Ektelon H machine for you owners out there...

1. How do you differentiate the H from the earlier models like the D and the DE? If it has glide bars is that automatically an H? Does it say model H somewhere on it?

2. Does the Ektelon H come with any tools like awls, string cutters, etc.?
I saw that the Neos 1000 manual has a tool kit w/ 3 awls, 2 pliers, 1 side cutter. Does that come w/ the original machine when you purchase it brand new?

I assume a calibrator is also not included w/ the machine originally.

Thanks

 

[MAX PLY]

1. The most significant differences between the H and the D/DE are (a) the tray table is larger; (b) the mounting system uses a quick clamp and release system versus the old vice system; (c) the tension arm assembly is a little longer (to accommodate larger frames which were more common at the introduction of the H); and (d) superior clamps. All of the Ektelon machines you mentioned use a glide bar system. And, yes, there was a sticker that said Eketelon Model H on the tension arm assembly (usually placed just below the tray table).

2. When sold as new, I don't recall the H having a tool kit included and I am sure that a calibrator was not part of the list price. The tool kit on any machine should not be a material item for your decision---you can purchase the basic tools you will need to string at a reasonable cost and those tools will likely be as good as any included in a tool kit. Do think about purchasing a calibrator.

Used H's in good shape are a bit harder to find than Ds, DEs or other pre-H machines (likely because it really was the best of breed). However, even if you get an H-predecessor, there are a couple of after-market conversion kits that are really good (alas the original H conversion kit is no longer produced), and you can build a very servicable machine (I have coverted several). Good luck.

 

[strcmp]

1. The most significant differences between the H and the D/DE are (a) the tray table is larger; (b) the mounting system uses a quick clamp and release system versus the old vice system; (c) the tension arm assembly is a little longer (to accommodate larger frames which were more common at the introduction of the H); and (d) superior clamps. All of the Ektelon machines you mentioned use a glide bar system. And, yes, there was a sticker that said Eketelon Model H on the tension arm assembly (usually placed just below the tray table).

2. When sold as new, I don't recall the H having a tool kit included and I am sure that a calibrator was not part of the list price. The tool kit on any machine should not be a material item for your decision---you can purchase the basic tools you will need to string at a reasonable cost and those tools will likely be as good as any included in a tool kit. Do think about purchasing a calibrator.

Used H's in good shape are a bit harder to find than Ds, DEs or other pre-H machines (likely because it really was the best of breed). However, even if you get an H-predecessor, there are a couple of after-market conversion kits that are really good (alas the original H conversion kit is no longer produced), and you can build a very servicable machine (I have coverted several). Good luck.

Thanks for the quick response and the advice..

Can you tell me how many clamps and glide bars an Ektelon H should originally come with? I think if i read the neo manual correctly, it's 2 long glide bars, 2 short ones, and 2 clamps? or is it 3 clamps?

 

[MAX PLY]

2 clamps and 4 glidebars (2 short and 2 long). A flying clamp was available for purchase and may have been included in later model Hs but early on, a flying clamp was largely unecessary as there were few fan patterns in tennis, squash or racquetball at that time.

 

[flair]

What are the 2 smaller glidebars used for?

 

[Irvin]

What are the 2 smaller glidebars used for?

Stringing the crosses

 

[flair]

I have been using one long bar for the crosses. Am I doing it wrong or is this an alternate way to get the same result.

 

[MAX PLY]

You can do it either way. I just use the long bar too. There are a few pattern alternatives where the short bars are useful but honestly it has been years since I have used the short bars. I am sure what you're doing is just fine.

 

[domosborn]

Sorry for hijacking this thread, but does anyone know what allan key/tool you need to use to calibrate these machines? thanks

 

[Irvin]

I have been using one long bar for the crosses. Am I doing it wrong or is this an alternate way to get the same result.

You can do it either way. I just use the long bar too. There are a few pattern alternatives where the short bars are useful but honestly it has been years since I have used the short bars. I am sure what you're doing is just fine.

I depends on the stringer. Some don't even have the short bars and others do.

 

[strcmp]

You can do it either way. I just use the long bar too. There are a few pattern alternatives where the short bars are useful but honestly it has been years since I have used the short bars. I am sure what you're doing is just fine.

When you say pattern alternatives, do you mean like One piece stringing?
Are these short glide bars for racquetball racquets?

Do you happen to know if there are any videos or pictures demonstrating how they are to be used properly?

Thanks!

 

[Steve Huff]

When I had my H, I used the short bars to string ATW patterns. I could clamp my last string on the long side at the bottom with the short bar clamp, which allowed me to turn the long bar to start the crosses at the top.

 

[Irvin]

When I had my H, I used the short bars to string ATW patterns. I could clamp my last string on the long side at the bottom with the short bar clamp, which allowed me to turn the long bar to start the crosses at the top.

Problem with the short bars is you clamp crosses with them and the long bars are for mains. ATW patterns on a glide bar machine can get difficult.

 

[MAX PLY]

Never a problem with ATW on an H--basically do what Steve says (admittedly, it is easier on a swivel clamp but the inefficiency of the glide bars is negligible--plus you make it up elsewhere). In any event, I just don't do that many ATWs--almost all two piece these days.

 

[Steve Huff]

Actually, I thought it was easier to string an ATW with the Ektelon. I used a box pattern, with a hard weave on every other cross. The short bar allowed me to clamp the long side at the bottom, while I finished stringing the top 1,2,or 3 crosses with the long bar turned sideways and tie off. Then, I could string the bottom cross using the long bar, since it is already horizontal. Then, I could string the last main on the short side and clamp using the short bar, leaving the long bar horizontal to resume the crosses. Works great.