I put lipstick on my Pig!!! (And I love it too!!!)

[shamaho]

Will do, order placed on Ali xpress - shipping time between 25 and 30 days.... yikes

muahahahahah! delivered today !! from May 8th to July 16th

can't wait to finish work today and get to work on applying lipstick to my "pig" ;-)

 

[shamaho]

@dak95_00 Need your help with these clamps...

My machine is not a eagnas mas very similar (Tyger Eco 45), I installed the new gravity clamps but... they seem not to be working ie. when locked/closed the clamps still move around...

Am I missing some crucial detail in the installation ? some screw that needs twisting other than the ones on the bottom of the glide bars ?

is there some nuance in the machine that makes mine not compatible with these gravity clamps ?

could you be so kind as to post a picture of the underside of the clamps ?

Thanks in advance

 

[esgee48]

You clamp the string. Then you lock the base of the clamp. When you release the string from the clamp, the shaft of the falling clamp is suppose to release the base of the clamp. That's what I got from reading about the 'lipstick.'

 

[shamaho]

Then you lock the base of the clamp

This is the problem part, the locking mechanism ain't locking the base...

 

[shamaho]

I wonder if this 9mm distance there is the critical part causing the failure to lock....
It isn't very clear as to what these 9mm are referring to...

in my clamps, turning the lock to the closed position seems to make no discernible effect on the part that clamps to the base....

 

[Irvin]

@shamaho Sounds like your turntable it too thin for the clamps to lock. Maybe you need to get 9 mm thick rails.

 

[shamaho]

@shamaho Sounds like your turntable it too thin for the clamps to lock. Maybe you need to get 9 mm thick rails.

mine seem to be 7mm - can I compensate that with some washers ?

 

[Irvin]

mine seem to be 7mm - can I compensate that with some washers ?

Might work but there must be good contact with the clamp base to the turntable. If you stick a couple washers in between them you may have slipping because you have more surfaces to slip.

 

[dak95_00]

I wonder if this 9mm distance there is the critical part causing the failure to lock....
It isn't very clear as to what these 9mm are referring to...

in my clamps, turning the lock to the closed position seems to make no discernible effect on the part that clamps to the base....

Mine doesn’t even have rails.

Here’s what I did. I took out the string clamps and only placed the base clamps down. I put them in the lock position. Then I tightened the screws. Then when I dropped in the string clamps they unlocked. Remember, they won’t lock when the clamps aren’t raised to the strings. When you unlock from the strings, they fall and unlock the base too.

 

[shamaho]

Thanks @dak95_00 , here's some followup questions:

I put them in the lock position. Then I tightened the screws

When you tightened the screws did the base clamps become locked to the turntable right at that time ? mine didn't (but I had my machine sideways for easy view & access to the screws)

Remember, they won’t lock when the clamps aren’t raised to the strings

wait, what ?! the base clamp won't lock without the string clamps raised to the string ?? so, when I tried my base clamp right after installing it without any string clamps inserted... it isn't supposed to lock by by itself ie. base alone without the string clamp "insert" ?

 

[shamaho]

@Irvin whay do you think of my prospects if I try shave the 2 missing mm from the top of the piece in picture below (it's the piece that presses the base clamp against the turntable from below), to make up for the missing 2mm on the rails, instead of adding new thicker rails with those extra 2mm....

0 new items by Shafik Mahomad

photos.app.goo.gl

When I place the equivalent piece from my old working clamp, it also "misses" the top level of rails by something like 2mm... whereas my new non-working piece... sits flush with the top level of the rails...

 

[Irvin]

@shamaho I would not buy something and then start modifying it. You may end up with something no one wants. I’d try to sell it and recoup my losses.

EDIT: but I’m not a big fan of auto release bases anyway. If there’s any tension difference on the clamped string between the 2 sides of the clamp when you release tension the string moves to equalize tension and may damage the string. Always clamp first then tighten base. Then release base first then after tension equalizes release the clamp.

 

[LittleDawg]

@Irvin whay do you think of my prospects if I try shave the 2 missing mm from the top of the piece in picture below (it's the piece that presses the base clamp against the turntable from below), to make up for the missing 2mm on the rails, instead of adding new thicker rails with those extra 2mm....

0 new items by Shafik Mahomad

photos.app.goo.gl

When I place the equivalent piece from my old working clamp, it also "misses" the top level of rails by something like 2mm... whereas my new non-working piece... sits flush with the top level of the rails...

I believe that is the problem. To be sure place a 2mm flat shim to simulate the 2mm gap your old clamp had and see if it locks. Good luck!

 

[Irvin]

You can put lipstick on a pig but it’s still a pig. - Barack Obama

 

[shamaho]

@shamaho I would not buy something and then start modifying it. You may end up with something no one wants. I’d try to sell it and recoup my losses.

EDIT: but I’m not a big fan of auto release bases anyway. If there’s any tension difference on the clamped string between the 2 sides of the clamp when you release tension the string moves to equalize tension and may damage the string. Always clamp first then tighten base. Then release base first then after tension equalizes release the clamp.

Sage advice @Irvin, I'll think about it really hard... problem is the market for home stringers in my country is tiny, so chance to recoup is small if not tiny.

That edit of yours was precious tip ! thanks.

 

[shamaho]

@shamaho I would not buy something and then start modifying it. You may end up with something no one wants. I’d try to sell it and recoup my losses.

EDIT: but I’m not a big fan of auto release bases anyway. If there’s any tension difference on the clamped string between the 2 sides of the clamp when you release tension the string moves to equalize tension and may damage the string. Always clamp first then tighten base. Then release base first then after tension equalizes release the clamp.

I might just try the sell though... :-(

 

[Irvin]

I’m not sure what the part bolted to the bottom of the turn table looks like but my guess is there is a piece that extends up into the body of the base that goes on top. If you take out the 2 bolts maybe you can shave off 2 mm from the top of the part then reinstall that part. You must take that part off so you can get the base on you machine anyway.

Isn’t there any way you can adjust the base so it fits?

 

[Trinity110]

@shamaho I would not buy something and then start modifying it. You may end up with something no one wants. I’d try to sell it and recoup my losses.

EDIT: but I’m not a big fan of auto release bases anyway. If there’s any tension difference on the clamped string between the 2 sides of the clamp when you release tension the string moves to equalize tension and may damage the string. Always clamp first then tighten base. Then release base first then after tension equalizes release the clamp.

I've thought that same thing about gravity release. Sounds nice, but I always want the base unlocked first anyway.

 

[Trinity110]

I’m not sure what the part bolted to the bottom of the turn table looks like but my guess is there is a piece that extends up into the body of the base that goes on top. If you take out the 2 bolts maybe you can shave off 2 mm from the top of the part then reinstall that part. You must take that part off so you can get the base on you machine anyway.

Isn’t there any way you can adjust the base so it fits?

By any chance could this work. Strips of Teflon tape added to the underside of the base. It is fairly slick, and the clamp primarily is applying weight to the upper side of the base, so it might not abrade too quickly. It would be compressible to an extent, so what the actual thickness applied should be, and how it will hold, I don't know.

 

[d-quik]

those weights though...

 

[struggle]

@Rabbit - Can I get an AMEN!!!

 

[dak95_00]

those weights though...

Those weights cost me $25 at Goodwill.

 

[dak95_00]

This difficulty is weird to me because my table doesn’t even have rails. It’s literally just a table with slots.

Maybe the springs that release them are messed up. Try pushing the button numerous times and see if that helps.

 

[djNEiGht]

i wonder if this would work on a gamma 602

 

[shamaho]

This difficulty is weird to me because my table doesn’t even have rails. It’s literally just a table with slots.

Maybe the springs that release them are messed up. Try pushing the button numerous times and see if that helps.

Whats the thickness of your table ? I think that is the main issue with mine, which is 7mm, and they state 9mm.

 

[shamaho]

I've thought that same thing about gravity release. Sounds nice, but I always want the base unlocked first anyway.

I see what you and @Irvin mean - I'd be saving time even without the gravity thing because my current clamps aren't even spring assisted.... so I'm never quite sure how much tightening they require thus spend precious few seconds tightening and untightening every time

and... I mostly use poly at sub 44 lbs - maybe that string damaging movement ain't so pronounced ? I'm guessing that would be a decisive factor with multis and gut (this last one I do use occasioanlly)...

 

[shamaho]

I’m not sure what the part bolted to the bottom of the turn table looks like but my guess is there is a piece that extends up into the body of the base that goes on top. If you take out the 2 bolts maybe you can shave off 2 mm from the top of the part then reinstall that part. You must take that part off so you can get the base on you machine anyway.

Isn’t there any way you can adjust the base so it fits?

I think that was what I was suggesting in post #61 there's a picture in there.

 

[Wes]

Ok.
Here's what I think may be the culprit. At least, it's what I hope is causing the issue for @shamaho - because it's an easy fix (adjustment).
I'm fairly surprised that, thus far, no one had mentioned this...

By any chance could this work. Strips of Teflon tape added to the underside of the base. It is fairly slick, and the clamp primarily is applying weight to the upper side of the base, so it might not abrade too quickly. It would be compressible to an extent, so what the actual thickness applied should be, and how it will hold, I don't know.

I don't think that's going to be a good idea, since the base clamps get their holding power from both, above and below the turntable.
I feel like Teflon tape would almost surely contribute to some unwanted slipping/sliding.

 

[shamaho]

Ok.
Here's what I think may be the culprit. At least, it's what I hope is causing the issue for @shamaho - because it's an easy fix (adjustment).
I'm fairly surprised that, thus far, no one had mentioned this...

I don't think that's going to be a good idea, since the base clamps get their holding power from both, above and below the turntable.
I feel like Teflon tape would almost surely contribute to some unwanted slipping/sliding.

WOW! I'm at a loss for words @Wes ! many many many thanks. You were extremely clear.

And yes I had examined that screw you mentioned (let's call it fine-adjustment clamping screw or FACS), and YES I noticed yesterday that the amount of "pull" on the bolt when locking the clamp was so minimal, like 1mm or less... so adjusting that for a bigger pull (or less gap) might very well work out....

But I remain with one ( possibly two) issues :
a) Crappy knock-off clamp - I don't have a screw on the outside, I have a hole with a long channel to adjust the FACS screw via a 3mm allen wrench.
b) Possibly - still too much gap to make up via the FACS

I expect solving a) to be a hassle but I'll try it - have to find the appropriate tool for that first though.
if I still remain with issue b) then... I'll try the shaving off 1mm or 2mm off the top of the bolt...

So, the saga continues.... stay tuned for "episode IV - a new hope"

P.S. - LESSON : How come we only notice & need the important quality details AFTER we buy the cheap stuff ??

 

[Irvin]

I think that was what I was suggesting in post #61 there's a picture in there.

I must admit I never really looked at the picture. That will work. But have you tried just adjusting the base? It won’t be easy shaving 2 mm off that part.

I mostly use poly at sub 44 lbs - maybe that string damaging movement ain't so pronounced

The lower your poly tension the more the strings move. If they are roughed up by the clamp they will be more abrasive and break faster. It fairly easy to tell if you’re going to have issues with auto release. Loosen the base first and see if the clamp moves at all. If it does it will damage your string.

 

[dak95_00]

I measured my table at 3/8 inch. That roughly converts to 9mm or more. That may be your issue.

These other things people are speaking of are just nonsense. Do they even play tennis or just string?

The same people will state over and over again that the person stringing is more important than the machine. I can definitely agree to that statement. The goal is consistency.

This abrasiveness that occurs by which one side is releasing before the other is pure bunk and speculation. Let’s see a scientific journal. Let’s pretend for a moment it’s true. It MIGHT make a difference with thin or cheap natural gut and very sensitive string such as Zyex (so?) or a Wilson Sensation. That’s a maybe. I’ve never had an issue and have string many racquets with nylons and polys at a variety of tensions. BOLOGNA!!!!

So now I’ve removed one of my clamps and I’m messing around and adjusting it.

@shamaho
Answer these questions by number, please.
1) Your clamps are going into a locking position off of the table?
2) Once on the table, they go into a locking position but still slide on the table?

 

[shamaho]

@shamaho
Answer these questions by number, please.
1) Your clamps are going into a locking position off of the table?
2) Once on the table, they go into a locking position but still slide on the table?

1) didn't quite understand the question - can you rephrase please ?
2) Yes

after @Wes excellent video, my plan is:
1) procure a long 3mm allen wrench - to adjust the FACS and see outcome
2) procure 2mm shims to see if the clamp now locks
3) decide depending on result of 1) and 2)

 

[dak95_00]

Locked

Unlocked

You should tighten them into the table in the LOCKED position. If you tighten them in the UNLOCKED position, you can actually over tighten them so they won’t lock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[am1899]

Not to add further difficulty/confusion to the mix...I thought I had seen these base clamps for sale somewhere before, but they also came with a new set of rails? Would a new set of rails solve this problem? Sorry, I’m having trouble visualizing the issue.

 

[dak95_00]

Not to add further difficulty/confusion to the mix...I thought I had seen these base clamps for sale somewhere before, but they also came with a new set of rails? Would a new set of rails solve this problem? Sorry, I’m having trouble visualizing the issue.

Possibly but my cheap machine doesn’t even have rails. It just has a slot. I think the issue is a very simple one but for some reason our communication isn’t clear to each other and then it’s getting muddled up by other unnecessary comments.

 

[shamaho]

Locked

Unlocked

You should tighten them into the table in the LOCKED position. If you tighten them in the UNLOCKED position, you can actually over tighten them so they won’t lock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ah! so updating your questions:

@shamaho
Answer these questions by number, please.
1) Your clamps are going into a locking position off of the table?
2) Once on the table, they go into a locking position but still slide on the table?

1) tried it both ways
2) yes

 

[jim e]

That Allen wrench adjustment can make a difference. I know when I first bought my machine a good number of years ago, I needed to adjust that screw with the metric Allen a few times in the beginning, as it was necessary to tighten up the base to make switch lever a shorter throw to lock the base on place. It has been a long time now since I had to adjust that since..I know turning the wrench clockwise only a slight amount made the lever travel much less to hold base.
Good luck.

 

[Irvin]

Not to add further difficulty/confusion to the mix...I thought I had seen these base clamps for sale somewhere before, but they also came with a new set of rails? Would a new set of rails solve this problem? Sorry, I’m having trouble visualizing the issue.

There’s a portion of the base on the bottom of the turntable that is bolted to Portion of the base that sits on top which as a pair acts like a friction brake. The distance between the top and bottom friction pads is make for a turntable that is 9 mm thick. @shamaho’s turntable is 7 mm thick so when the base is locked there is still a 2 mm space and not friction so the base will not hold.

If @shamaho has rails on his machine, and if the new rails it, and if the rails are 9 mm thick then they will work. My suggestion was to aDjust the base back in post #67. By adjusting the base you may be able to account for the 2 mm difference. I’ve not seen anything since then if that was actually tried or not.

 

[dak95_00]

ah! so updating your questions:


1) tried it both ways
2) yes

Then your table must be too thin. That stinks. I can’t imagine that 2mm makes that difference but it must.

 

[Rabbit]

@Rabbit - Can I get an AMEN!!!

is there such a thing as a metric amen?

 

[shamaho]

If @shamaho has rails on his machine, and if the new rails it, and if the rails are 9 mm thick then they will work. My suggestion was to aDjust the base back in post #67. By adjusting the base you may be able to account for the 2 mm difference. I’ve not seen anything since then if that was actually tried or not.

That measure of shaving off the 2mm from said bolt will be the measure of last resort.

@Wes in his video has perfectly captured the issue, but for the benefit of future people he was vaery thorough in his explanation which makes for a long 20 video. But he got the issue perfectly.

Currently, my plan is:
1) procure a long 3mm allen wrench - to adjust the FACS and see outcome - pending !!
2) procure 2mm shims to see if the clamp now locks - trying this now....

3) decide depending on result of 1) and 2)

and BTW, Many thanks for every contributor no matter if moving the issue forward or not - all contribs are appreciated!
will report on 2) soon as possible.

 

[shamaho]

That measure of shaving off the 2mm from said bolt will be the measure of last resort.

@Wes in his video has perfectly captured the issue, but for the benefit of future people he was vaery thorough in his explanation which makes for a long 20 video. But he got the issue perfectly.

Currently, my plan is:
1) procure a long 3mm allen wrench - to adjust the FACS and see outcome - pending !!
2) procure 2mm shims to see if the clamp now locks - trying this now....

3) decide depending on result of 1) and 2)

and BTW, Many thanks for every contributor no matter if moving the issue forward or not - all contribs are appreciated!
will report on 2) soon as possible.

Excellent news people!!

With solution 2) I added 3mm wood shims, and the clamp locked in tight without any further adjustment, and when unlocked glided smoothly.... SUCCESS !!

Which means it's them 2mm making all this trouble!

Now for the permanent solution....

a) keep those wood shims....
b) shave 2mm off the bolt on the underside of the base clamp
c) remove shims and attempt the FACS adjustment

what say you ?
I'll definitely try c) and if it works, then perfect! no need for shims... otherwise I'll try to live with those shims...

Have a picture here of the shims applied for the test : https://photos.app.goo.gl/yMVtDunMHG6dj37j6

 

[Wes]

Now for the permanent solution....

a) keep those wood shims....
b) shave 2mm off the bolt on the underside of the base clamp
c) remove shims and attempt the FACS adjustment

what say you ?
I'll definitely try c) and if it works, then perfect! no need for shims... otherwise I'll try to live with those shims...

Have a picture here of the shims applied for the test : https://photos.app.goo.gl/yMVtDunMHG6dj37j6

I can't really understand why you wouldn't have tried that option (c) first... before going out to obtain shims and such.
Nonetheless, it doesn't seem that the FACS adjustment is going to be enough to account for the missing 2mm. It does appear that your 7mm turntable really is the crux of the issue.
BTW, I don't think the wood shims are going to be a lasting solution.

b) shave 2mm off the bolt on the underside of the base clamp

I definitely think you should be attempting the FACS adjustment BEFORE you shave 2mm off of the top side of the BLOCK - not the BOLT(S).
It's the thickness/thinness of the metal block that dictates the spacing/gap - not the length of the bolt(s).
Cutting the bolt(s) down by 2mm isn't going to eliminate the 2mm gap.

I think it will likely come down to 1, of 3, options -
1) remove 2mm (or even just a touch more than 2mm) from the TOP side of the metal block that you have.
2) have a machinist fabricate/mill you a completely NEW metal block (using the one you have as a basic template).
This new block would have the bottommost portion (the "wings" for lack of a better term) being slightly more than 2mm thicker than the normal block.
3) get the replacement (9mm?) rails and swap out your 7mm thin ones.

 

[jim e]

Get the wrench and adjust the screw.

 

[shamaho]

I can't really understand why you wouldn't have tried that option (c) first... before going out to obtain shims and such.

Simplest explanation in the world really I don't have a long 3mm Allen wrench, nor could I find one in two stores near my place - so it will be tomorrow.

Regarding shims... well, it happened that I had them lying in my home, my wifey alerted them to me....
so I just went out and try to see if the 2mm was a solution...

all other things make sense and are obvious anyway (I mistakenly spoke bolt when I meant block)

 

[Wes]

all other things make sense and are obvious anyway (I mistakenly spoke bolt when I meant block)

Roger that.
I just got a little panicked when I read about you cutting down the bolt(s)!

 

[jim e]

Wondering if you got the wrench and made the adjustment.

 

[shamaho]

Wondering if you got the wrench and made the adjustment.

You won't believe but I can't find it even in large stores and I gave up looking... had to go to that big store in the cloud and... I'll get it end of comign week (the store warehouses though sit across the channel or across the border so... takes a few days to arrive).

Meanwhile:

2) have a machinist fabricate/mill you a completely NEW metal block (using the one you have as a basic template).
This new block would have the bottommost portion (the "wings" for lack of a better term) being slightly more than 2mm thicker than the normal block.

This insight, made me reconsider the shims design so I applied the shims to the block's wings.... tested and seem to work just as good. So this solution will have to do until either the long allen wrech arrives, or my shims solution proves unreliable, breaks-down or whatever...

I'll be stringing a racket today to see how it goes...

 

[esgee48]

Feel free to ignore this post.

After all this effort to get the machine functional again, I would think it would behoove you to NAME your machine. First, decide if it is MALE or FEMALE. At the risk of offending the other sex, I would suggest FEMALE. Now to pick a name. Who does the new version of this machine remind you of? Maybe a temperamental Italian female like Monica Belluci? And of course to avoid defamation, it needs a suffix. Monica 2.0.

 

[shamaho]

Feel free to ignore this post.

After all this effort to get the machine functional again, I would think it would behoove you to NAME your machine. First, decide if it is MALE or FEMALE. At the risk of offending the other sex, I would suggest FEMALE. Now to pick a name. Who does the new version of this machine remind you of? Maybe a temperamental Italian female like Monica Belluci? And of course to avoid defamation, it needs a suffix. Monica 2.0.

LOL! most excellent idea! I'll be taking suggestions...

Can't use Monica though, because it's the name of the tennis store owner at my club eheh - and quite the player also !

But yeah, a temperamental and high maintenance female character will be an apt name !