Starting Crosses w/ Flying Clamps (no double pull)

[Alex13]

I just purchased Gamma X-2 and GSS starting clamp. I am trying to find a "how to" video on starting crosses without double-pulling. I do not want to use a starting knot.

Am I correct to assume that the process is essentially identical to the one YULitle uses in this video to start mains?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KO9qWaom4cg&fmt=18

Obviously, instead I would first pull tension on the top two crosses. Then set a flying clam inside the frame as far away from the tension head as possible. Then pull tension on the first cross and set a starting clamp on the outside... ...come back and tie off the crosses with a finishing knot.

Thank for your help

 

[Irvin]

Yes except that you use the starting clamp on the outside of the frame instead of the second clamp.

Irvin

 

[tray999]

I just purchased Gamma X-2 and GSS starting clamp. I am trying to find a "how to" video on starting crosses without double-pulling. I do not want to use a starting knot.

Am I correct to assume that the process is essentially identical to the one YULitle uses in this video to start mains?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KO9qWaom4cg&fmt=18

Obviously, instead I would first pull tension on the top two crosses. Then set a flying clam inside the frame as far away from the tension head as possible. Then pull tension on the first cross and set a starting clamp on the outside... ...come back and tie off the crosses with a finishing knot.

Thank for your help

Here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/user/YULitle#p/u/17/vIbR7OzJJ5k

 

[Irvin]

Here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/user/YULitle#p/u/17/vIbR7OzJJ5k

That video is for fixed clamps not flying clamps (X-2 stringer.) The video the OP listed is the correct one it just shows how to start the mains. Same concept for the crosses.

Irvin

 

[Alex13]

Here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/user/YULitle#p/u/17/vIbR7OzJJ5k

This won't work. In this video he is using a stringer with the fixed (not flying) clamps, that he can lock in place and pull tension. As I stated I have a Gamma X-2 (flying clamps).
Thanks though.

 

[Alex13]

Yes except that you use the starting clamp on the outside of the frame instead of the second clamp.

Irvin

Thanks Irvin! I watched a bunch of videos and feel fairly confident stringing my first racquet. Would it be a mistake to string my main (expensive) stick first? I don’t feel like cutting out the sting on the other frames just so I can train.

 

[tinyman]

Thanks Irvin! I watched a bunch of videos and feel fairly confident stringing my first racquet. Would it be a mistake to string my main (expensive) stick first? I don’t feel like cutting out the sting on the other frames just so I can train.

As a new stringer myself, I really recommend that you cut out strings from old frames first. I was tempted to do my main racquet first (as it needed restringing), but opted for an old one - and I'm really glad I did. I scuffed the frame, I broke strings (cheap synthetics!), and generally made a mess of things. I watched videos, read articles - all that good stuff, but the practical application was a different story.

A couple goes later, and I'm getting better. I'm still having trouble with the top and bottom crosses though - the string spacing is so far apart that I can't get a clamp onto both strings near the side of the frame.

 

[Alex13]

You scare me now. The process looks very straight forward. I do have a starting clamp in case I will fall a bit short on string. I can see how it can take a longer time, since I never strung before, but how can I make a mess of things?

Also, my older/cheaper frames are 16X19 oversizes, but the ones I ply with now are 18X20 Prestige MPs.

 

[tinyman]

You scare me now. The process looks very straight forward. I do have a starting clamp in case I will fall a bit short on string. I can see how it can take a longer time, since I never strung before, but how can I make a mess of things?

Also, my older/cheaper frames are 16X19 oversizes, but the ones I ply with now are 18X20 Prestige MPs.

In my case, the flying clamps would slip and peel back the string, slip teeth etc. In a couple cases, they twisted and came off altogether. It's not scary per-se, but I wouldn't expect the first job to be the best one you'll ever do. It is a straight forward process - for just two piece stringing (what I do) technically there is nothing to it. It just takes a bit to get some of the finesse... what separates a good stringer from me.

How big an oversize frame are you talking? When I learned tennis, I was taught anything over a 95 square inch head was an oversize frame. I've had no problem stringing up to 100 square inch heads with 40 ft. of synthetic gut.

 

[Nellie]

I guess I am confused - how are you doing the crosses without a starting knot unless you are doing a one piece? Are you starting in the center? I am top down only stringer.

About learning to string, don't worry about your racquets- hard to break, really. Instead, get some cheap nylon, because it is really easy to mess up (fray strings, miss a weave, etc.)

 

[spacediver]

The OP is using a starting clamp.

 

[Alex13]

How big an oversize frame are you talking?

The OS frames are 110”. I only touch them if I break strings on Prestiges, which are 98”.

The OP is using a starting clamp.

Precisely, you don’t have to start in the middle to use finishing knots on both ends of your crosses.

 

[tinyman]

I'm not sure how much string you would need for the mains/crosses... maybe like 22/18? Best to use a guide on that one. Do you have a second-hand sports store nearby? I've heard of people finding some decent frames there before (really, all you need is a junker 93-98 frame).

It is of course up to you to string your nice frames, but they are $100 apiece new? Not the most expensive out there obviously (mine was $190 new! I didn't want to risk that), but if you are willing to go for it.

 

[Alex13]

It is of course up to you to string your nice frames, but they are $100 apiece new? Not the most expensive out there obviously (mine was $190 new! I didn't want to risk that), but if you are willing to go for it.

Well, here on TW the new prestiges are still $180 apiece. I would probably get another one if I could find a new one for $100.
I think you have me convinced to restring the old one first. I guess it just won’t be as much fun, since I know I will never play with that stick…

 

[tinyman]

Well, here on TW the new prestiges are still $180 apiece. I would probably get another one if I could find a new one for $100.
I think you have me convinced to restring the old one first. I guess it just won’t be as much fun, since I know I will never play with that stick…

Oh, I must be thinking of another stick... honestly, at $180 I wouldn't either.

It's not so much fun, but I don't think you'll regret it in the end - and it only took a couple times to get things down (I ended up having a faulty clamp, so it took me a bit longer). Once I finished stringing, I cut them out and tried... played with it and it wasn't perfect (my top crosses were laughably loose), but it wasn't too bad. At this point, I can string my own frame without too much trouble.

 

[Irvin]

You scare me now. The process looks very straight forward. I do have a starting clamp in case I will fall a bit short on string. I can see how it can take a longer time, since I never strung before, but how can I make a mess of things?

Also, my older/cheaper frames are 16X19 oversizes, but the ones I ply with now are 18X20 Prestige MPs.

I would not worry about messing up it is not that hard. As a matter of fact it is easier to mess up the string than the racket. I would go for it you have to string it sooner or later.

Irvin

 

[GlenK]

I strung my best racquet first. It took a while, but got it done and it was fine.

 

[JackB1]

You wont mess up the racquet. But you will mess up the stringing process several times until you get the hang of it. We all do

 

[Alex13]

Okay, so I did complete my first stringing job yesterday. I ended up stringing my older/cheaper racquet, only because I broke the string on it yesterday. In any event, the stringing process wasn’t bad at all, but it took me a little over two hours. I am pretty sure I can complete my next stringing job in less than 1 hour.

The only frustrating part of the process was setting tension on the flying clamps. “Tight enough, but not too tight”??? What is that supposed to mean? Are there any threads on TW that provide a little bit more guidance?

Oh, and it was pretty late and I was tired when finishing the crosses. I accidently weaved 3rd and 4th cross closest to the throat over and under the same mains. I only noticed it in the morning before leaving for work. Will it affect the playability? The stick is 16X20, so the crosses with identical weave are way at the bottom.

 

[tinyman]

Okay, so I did complete my first stringing job yesterday. I ended up stringing my older/cheaper racquet, only because I broke the string on it yesterday. In any event, the stringing process wasn’t bad at all, but it took me a little over two hours. I am pretty sure I can complete my next stringing job in less than 1 hour.

The only frustrating part of the process was setting tension on the flying clamps. “Tight enough, but not too tight”??? What is that supposed to mean? Are there any threads on TW that provide a little bit more guidance?

Oh, and it was pretty late and I was tired when finishing the crosses. I accidently weaved 3rd and 4th cross closest to the throat over and under the same mains. I only noticed it in the morning before leaving for work. Will it affect the playability? The stick is 16X20, so the crosses with identical weave are way at the bottom.

I don't think it will affect the playability, you don't use those crosses (uh, normally) to hit the ball with.

As for tight/not too tight, I haven't found a good way. There's no set amount to tighten the clamps. The one piece of advice I got, and it does seem to work well, is to take your clamp (loose) and clamp it to the tip of string (that you will be cutting off). Tighten until you score the string (overclamping), then back off 'a bit' (I did 1/4 of a turn). Just remember you need string on both sides for a flying clamp...

 

[zapvor]

a little misweave is ok. whats the reasoning for not using a starting knot?

 

[yem]

Can YuLitle's method for starting mains be used in the crosses without using a starting clamp?

 

[jim e]

Can YuLitle's method for starting mains be used in the crosses without using a starting clamp?

Yes it can. This is using fixed clamps.as I don't use floating clamps, but fixed clamps can be done as follows:

1.You weave both 1st and 2nd cross strings.
2.Pull both cross strings to set anchor clamp which is on 2nd cross, farthest from tension head.
3.Release tension, (as an optional step I place a starting clamp outside racquet on that 2nd cross as well before releasing tension, but is really not needed, especially if you do not have a starting clamp)
4.Pull 1st cross string, clamp and tie off using your finishing knot.
5.Pull 2nd cross string,release machine clamp which was the anchor clamp (release starting clamp if you so used one, as was optional step), clamp after you pulled that 2nd cross, and continue as normal, weaving one ahead of course.

This is a way,to start cross strings if you do not like pulling against a starting clamp when starting cross strings, and still use a finishing knot, and also not be pulling against a starting knot. Works very nice! Just be sure to give yourself a few extra inches of string when you start your cross strings with a finishing knot, as it takes a little more for those who like to cut it short from a reel.

Wheather using a starting clamp or this method of starting cross string rather than pulling against a starting knot...reasons....
So all knots are the same,and you would not be tying off on a main string and pulling tension against it, and when using thin gut or other 'fragile' multifilament strings, and especially at higher tensions, it is not uncommon to snap that first cross string right at the knot or at the two sharp turns the string makes, With using a starting clamp or method listed here, you do not pull tension against these turns, so less stress placed on strings.

 

[Irvin]

a little misweave is ok. whats the reasoning for not using a starting knot?

1 - Some times your top cross will tie off on a cross (Pure Storm ties off on 11h)
2 - A starting knot is much bulkier than normal and just looks different
3 - A starting knot's tail (depending on starting knot) rides down the string instead of up against the frame like a Pro knot or Parnell knot will
4 - Some people do not like to tie on natural gut or pull tension on a delicate string

Irvin

 

[yem]

Yes it can. This is using fixed clamps.as I don't use floating clamps, but fixed clamps can be done as follows:

1.You weave both 1st and 2nd cross strings.
2.Pull both cross strings to set anchor clamp which is on 2nd cross, farthest from tension head.
3.Release tension, (as an optional step I place a starting clamp outside racquet on that 2nd cross as well before releasing tension, but is really not needed, especially if you do not have a starting clamp)
4.Pull 1st cross string, clamp and tie off using your finishing knot.
5.Pull 2nd cross string,release machine clamp which was the anchor clamp (release starting clamp if you so used one, as was optional step), clamp after you pulled that 2nd cross, and continue as normal, weaving one ahead of course.

This is a way,to start cross strings if you do not like pulling against a starting clamp when starting cross strings, and still use a finishing knot, and also not be pulling against a starting knot. Works very nice! Just be sure to give yourself a few extra inches of string when you start your cross strings with a finishing knot, as it takes a little more for those who like to cut it short from a reel.

Wheather using a starting clamp or this method of starting cross string rather than pulling against a starting knot...reasons....
So all knots are the same,and you would not be tying off on a main string and pulling tension against it, and when using thin gut or other 'fragile' multifilament strings, and especially at higher tensions, it is not uncommon to snap that first cross string right at the knot or at the two sharp turns the string makes, With using a starting clamp or method listed here, you do not pull tension against these turns, so less stress placed on strings.

A better phrased question: can YuLitle's method for starting mains with floating clamps be used for starting crosses?

 

[yem]

The reason I ask about floating clamps is that all of these methods work great for a clamp that clamps one string at a time, where as floating clamps clamp 2 strings at a time. I don't have a starting clamp, so it seems like I am stuck with a double pull? I get my new gamma x2 tomorrow so I am trying to plan/learn as much as I can before it gets here. Thanks for any help.

 

[Azk]

No, you can still use the same method Yulitle showed for the mains on the crosses. In his video, he uses a floating clamp outside of the frame to keep it tensioned.

 

[yem]

Would I have to start with the top 3 crosses? Meaning that I start by double pulling the 2nd and 3rd, clamp away from the tension, pull the 3rd and clamp outside the frame, then Tension number 2, move clamp close to tension, pull tension on cross 1,clamp and tie a finishing knot, them proceed with the rest on cross 4?

Posting from a phone so I apologize for the format.

 

[panta77]

Alex13 and Irvin, when I first pull the 1st 2 crosses, should I do by hand, or can I do it using my gamma x-2 tensioner? If I can do it with the tensioner, should I do it til the bar is parallel (meaning the chosen tension) or just pull a bit so that both strings get a bit tension and they get pulled?
In case I can use the machine to pull both strings, which option would be better, by hand or with the tensioner?
Thanks so much!

 

[jswinf]

The only frustrating part of the process was setting tension on the flying clamps. “Tight enough, but not too tight”??? What is that supposed to mean?

I think you did really well. Unfortunately, the quoted advice about setting the flying clamps is pretty much it. On the other hand, at least for me, once I got the clamps "tight enough but not too tight" I've found that they work well for whatever string I've used without further adjustment, I definitely don't fool with them for every job, just leave 'em be. You always look out for slipping or string damage, of course.

 

[Steve Huff]

To answer your original question, you can avoid a double pull on the 1st cross, even with a floating clamp. Someone, Klippermate I think, makes a little pin that you insert in a hole next to the 1st cross. you then clamp onto that pin and the string. You could use your 2nd clamp as a starting clamp on the outside of the frame by making a loop in the string so that your clamp has 2 strings to clamp onto. Without the pin (which you could probably make yourself), you'll probably have to pull 2 strings on the 1st pull if you have only floating clamps.

 

[spacediver]

interesting steve - I wonder why the klippermate manual doesn't recommend using the starting pin to start the crosses. I never even thought to do it that way. Perhaps next time I string with my klipper I'll see if it works. (it certainly works when starting the mains!)

Anyone else tried this?

 

[fortun8son]

The first cross is not that important, the second is.
Release the clamp while pulling your third cross and that should take up most of the slack.
If you use a starting clamp instead of a starting knot, you can go back and retension no.1 before tying off.