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Wow, I came back to this thread after a busy week to find a lot of interesting info. In particular, the "calibration" procedure outlined by 10SDad was very interesting. In a previous email Fred said that they don't calibrate their machines: "It has nothing to do with the calibration of the...

The concode system lifts only on the side of the racquet handle, so that's not an issue. However, your comments made me examine a few other things, and one of them was the position of the racquet on the platform, if the racquet head is not centered, that means that the side closer to the...

Here is a much more elegant solution to the problem. http://youtu.be/UgFO7NCjGt8 However, since I am so good at adjusting the slack in the string that the lever falls very close to horizontal almost every time (thanks to my old M50), I am not really sure I am going to use this, but we will see.

Well, it's actually closer to 2% to 3% on most occasions, and 0% when the bar is horizontal. I think the machine has so many other redeeming qualities, like the mounting system and solid build quality, which make up for this. As people already mentioned, the "big picture" is that the overall...

Sorry, I don't have experience stringing my crosses from the center. I have only done this once (with a Prince O racket) because I did not have a another way of strinign it on that machine at the time. Not sure how the stringbed fehlt because it was not for me. Perhaps you can open a new...

I used to have this issue with my M50, but with some practice, I managed to eliminate most of the drawback. Granted, I had single action clamps, but the drawback was still quite large, probably the same as you have. All you have to do is preload the clamps before clamping. So I would press...

Wow, lots of great posts in the last few days. And thanks for adding the link to the old thread about this issue. Reading it was interesting to say the least. I did a few more tests, including some while using my iphone to measure the angle of the string going into the gripper. The string...

I think this confirms your theory? http://youtu.be/-QYQ2LJHlEg I actually made this video first, which gave me the idea to put the books under the tension head. I have had a long email discussion with Fred Timmer from Stringway about this. He watched the videos and has been patient and kind...

How to mod your Strigway to be more accurate Here is a video of a modification I invented that improved the accuracy of my brand new Stringway ML100 from a variance of 4 lbs to virtually zero variance. With this modification to your machine, it will now function as advertised: The tension is...

Ok, so after running a few more tests, here are a few things I learned that might help everyone (assuming that this is not just an issue with my machine) 1. The concorde system creates much greater variance. So if you have the concorde system, make sure the lever is horizontal or slightly...

Thanks for the detailed reply and the number crunching effort. I can definitely confirm that the variance in tension is much better than one would expect from a regular drop weight, based on your calculations. I don't have a way to measure the angle, but the difference between perfectly...

When using the concorde system for the first 2 mains, the difference +-5lb on the extremes when the reference tension is 60 lb, and +- 3 lb when the arm is a reasonable distance above and below horizontal.

I finally got some AAA batteries for my tension scale and decided to test the accuracy of the "automatic drop weight" component of the machine. I placed the scale inside the frame so the friction component is taken into account. When the bar is perfectly horizontal, the tension is right on, it's...

Hmmm, that's going to be tricky, these are not tightened all the way, so there is some movement in the legs when trying to move them by hand, otherwise it stands firm. Would be nice to get everything nice and tight.

Add me to the club My ML 100 arrived last week. I haven't had the chance to use it yet. I do have a question, does anyone know what socket is used to tighten the perpendicular side bars/table top stand legs? There are two holes, one on each side, with a little nut inside. 3/8 is too small...

Thanks, this is excatly what I wanted to know! I noticed you are using a starting method that leaves a little piece of string at the top without tension, I have been thinking about the best starting methods which would solve this, using a starting clamp and two tripple clamps to do the mains...

This was like 3 pm in the afternoon, and he didn't really seem in the hurry to get anywhere!

I saw a stringer/coach string the mains on someone elses racquet, dismount the frame and set it down. I asked him what on earth was he was doing? His reply, "I am going to do the croses tomorrow."

Thanks, that's pretty much what I though, I came across some extensive video footage of using a Stringway by a gentleman in Japan, he showed the way the clamps work and I was a bit concerned about the spacing in the open pattern racquets. I was actully thinking of trying out some Wilson Spin...

Hello everyone, I used to own a Stringway M50 with a T92 rail system. It was a second hand purchase and was in ok condition, although not perfect, I managed to mitigate the drawback on the clamps with practice to nearly zero, and I loved using the machine, although it was definitely a step below...

I posted this in the ESP thread, but I thought I should add it here too. I thought I share my recent experience on ESP. Having sold my Stringway a while back prior to moving, I had to go into a sports shop and I paid them so I could string my own racquet. Unfortunately, I had a problem with...

Just want to emphasize that from my experience, this Kevlar/Poly or Kevlar/ZX setup does not work well with a lot of racquets. Anything with an 18x20 pattern is going to feel pretty awful. I tried it with PC600 last year, at low tension and it was terrible. The Volkl C10 Pro is a good frame...

I am going to hop in here and post after about a year of inactivity. The kevlar/poly has been my preferred setup for the last 16 months. With this setup I finally reached a point where shotmaking was no longer the main limiting factor, the limiting factors became fitness and speed on the court...

The braided Dyneema definitely does not have a harder surface than co-poly, the ZX crosses sawed through the 1.10 mm mains in just a few matches, much much faster than 1.10 mm Kevlar. Interesting observations by Trav about natural ZX and good to finally read that Tores tried Gut/ZX, will be...

Yep, that's how I remember it. I also recall loosing some control and the sluggish snapback, which might have also been low(isn) tension, might have been why. What are you going to do with the rest of the reel now?

I would be curious to hear how your experiment with Polymaster goes, I have been wanting to try that string, but you can't buy it in EU. I was planing to order one from TW US, but since I am not usually a natural gut hybrid user i decided not to since it's so expensive. The thin Dyneema...

It's hard to say if the 1.27 might be a better cross over 1.22, I exchanged the wheat color for the red pro, probably should have gotten a pro and a regular red to compare. I would think the 1.27 would be better with gut because the setup would last longer and this is the more controlled version...

That's also how I found the natural zx, exchanged it for red pro, but won't be able to test it with gut and kevlar until July. Can't believe the two "same" strings act so differently.

At least I know my observations were not a fluke, even at higher tension the wheat seems to have less snapback than the red. This is odd as it seems to be stiffer than the red, which should allow for less denting and more sliding, so it must be the surface coating. Perhaps if there is a...

Yes, Plus/ZX would be a brilliant setup, much better than the current basic synthetic gut that comes with it. The only problem I envision is some movement of ZX up and down the Plus mains, since Plus doesn't seem to have the gold/sticky coating of the regular 17g kevlar that notches slightly at...