Eagnas Combo 910

Lakers4Life

Lakers4Life

Hall of Fame
The machine that aznfatmonkey got is actually dark blue, looks black from certain angles or the pictures he posted.

It does look better than some of the other models I've seen.
 
S

struggle

Legend
tbuggle said:
i looked, read, studied and compared. for my money it was a no-brainer.

if i have to eat my words, i'll let you all know about it.

i believe i'll be happy with it.
Click to expand...

i now have a tracking number. i'll be stringing again in a week or so.

looking forward to new-gained independence!

kinda like telling "the man" to PI$$ OFF!
 
gflyer

gflyer

Professional
Congrats for your machine. It looks nice.
After ~ one month are you still happy with it?
I am thinking about a Combo 810.
I have a limited budget ($500) but I'd like a crank.
Can anybody confirm that 810 and 910 are the same machine, the difference being only the stand?
Thank you.
Cheers,
g
 
J

jim e

Legend
gflyer said:
I am thinking about a Combo 810.
I have a limited budget ($500) but I'd like a crank.
Can anybody confirm that 810 and 910 are the same machine, the difference being only the stand?
Thank you.
Cheers,
g
Click to expand...

It looks like the difference is the stand, but the 910 is only $30.00 more, and you would pay more than that for a decent table to put it on, and the stand is made for the machine, and you would be happier with a decent stand as it would make the job easier access. Plus the model with the stand comes in at $499. which is at your price limit.
 
gflyer

gflyer

Professional
jim e said:
It looks like the difference is the stand, but the 910 is only $30.00 more, and you would pay more than that for a decent table to put it on, and the stand is made for the machine, and you would be happier with a decent stand as it would make the job easier access. Plus the model with the stand comes in at $499. which is at your price limit.
Click to expand...
Thank you jim_e. Yeah I think your suggestion makes sense.
With shipping and taxes I guess I will be quite a bit over my budget.
I am also considering Flex 840/940. I understand the difference is only in the clamps (spring assisted vs cone).
Do you guys think it is an important feature?
 
mad dog1

mad dog1

G.O.A.T.
g, i just sold my combo 910 well under your limit...would've been perfect for you.

and shipped it to a nor cal buyer... :(
 
gflyer

gflyer

Professional
mad dog1 said:
g, i just sold my combo 910 well under your limit...would've been perfect for you.

and shipped it to a nor cal buyer... :(
Click to expand...

yeah I know. I saw it on the classified. :-(
I also enjoyed your recent review. Very nice. ;-)
 
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Lakers4Life

Lakers4Life

Hall of Fame
Since you are in Nor Cal, there seems to be a lot of used machines that get listed. If you have the patience to wait, one will pop up sooner or later. You can get a decent machine for about $300. In fact there is a year old Gamma X-St for $550 in the South Bay area Craigslist.
 
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mad dog1

mad dog1

G.O.A.T.
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gflyer

gflyer

Professional
mad dog1 said:
my price limit was pretty much the same as yours so i did the pre-owned route, too. pre-owned is the way to go...

here's what lakers4life was referring to...

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/spo/1759033152.html

here's another...but i can't tell what brand stringer it is.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/spo/1759196378.html
Click to expand...
Thank you mad-dog1. Very helpful. :)
Actually on the same site today they posted a NEOS 1000.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/spo/1760065072.html
that would be an excellent buy...I wish I had that budget.
And it just 5 minutes from my house.
 
S

struggle

Legend
my 910 was "only" ~$570 shipped (to NC), with a starting clamp and spring calibrator (which i think is way inaccurate, wouldn't buy it again).

i'm happy with it so far, but NO it isn't as nice as the more expensive machines. works fine.
 
mad dog1

mad dog1

G.O.A.T.
gflyer, a digital fish scale is fine. actually better imo as long as the range is broad enough. preferably up to 70+ lbs.

tbuggle, since you're outside of CA, you don't need to pay sales tax that gflyer would need to pay.
 
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S

struggle

Legend
gflyer said:
Do I need a calibrator?
Can I just use a fishing digital scale?
Click to expand...

it's a good idea to have something to calibrate with, but only if you trust it's accuracy.

i think that would be fine (fisshing scale), only problem i've had in looking for those is that many only go to 50 lbs. I'd prefer to have one with a larger range to calibrate in the range of most stringing i do (upper 50's).

i have ordered a luggage/pull scale from somewhere in china or somewhere off the BIG site. i'll post up if/when i ever get it...forget the name/brand.

also, once i get it, i'll compare it to the eagnas spring calibrator, perhaps it works fine and my "senses" are off.
 
L

lawdog

New User
tbuggle: do you get any drawback movement in the clamp when you release tension? I'm thinking about a 910, but read a review that there is some movement when tension is released. Wondering what your experience has been.
 
Lakers4Life

Lakers4Life

Hall of Fame
All machines have some drawback, some more than others. The best way to counter drawback is the push the base towards the tension before locking down.
 
gflyer

gflyer

Professional
mad dog1 said:
gflyer, a digital fish scale is fine. actually better imo as long as the range is broad enough. preferably up to 70+ lbs.

tbuggle, since you're outside of CA, you don't need to pay sales tax that gflyer would need to pay.
Click to expand...

tbuggle said:
it's a good idea to have something to calibrate with, but only if you trust it's accuracy.

i think that would be fine (fisshing scale), only problem i've had in looking for those is that many only go to 50 lbs. I'd prefer to have one with a larger range to calibrate in the range of most stringing i do (upper 50's).

i have ordered a luggage/pull scale from somewhere in china or somewhere off the BIG site. i'll post up if/when i ever get it...forget the name/brand.

also, once i get it, i'll compare it to the eagnas spring calibrator, perhaps it works fine and my "senses" are off.
Click to expand...

I have a digital fishing/luggage scale that goes up to 80lb.
 
mad dog1

mad dog1

G.O.A.T.
Lakers4Life said:
All machines have some drawback, some more than others. The best way to counter drawback is the push the base towards the tension before locking down.
Click to expand...

yeah, exactly. that's what i was doing when i had my combo 910. the neos still produced more consistent results even when i would push the base away from the tension head when locking down.
 
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gflyer

gflyer

Professional
I've been reading about the eagnas swivel clamps.
Many suggested to go with the spring assisted (combo models) but some complained about them and suggested to go with cone ones (flex model i guess).
Any comments on this?
I am leaning more towards the spring assisted.
mad_dog1 I read I read your review and you said they are pretty much equivalent for you. But if you had to choose one?
Sorry for the too many questions.
The moment I'll get my new machine I'll get drinks for everybody :mrgreen:
 
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S

struggle

Legend
lawdog said:
tbuggle: do you get any drawback movement in the clamp when you release tension? I'm thinking about a 910, but read a review that there is some movement when tension is released. Wondering what your experience has been.
Click to expand...

a little, but i counter it as best i can by pushing the base toward the tension head before clamping it. this seems to work best when clamping against the long axis if the base clamp, not as well when pull is sideways against the clamp. I've also toyed with the adjustment abit for better results (less drawback).

i think any of them will have some drawback, but certainly if one is going to have more DB i'd imagine the eagnas clamps might be first in line.

i believe i can produce quality/consistent stringjobs with the 910, although it it NOT as nice as the name brand machines.

I'd say it was worth the money invested, but i've only strung about 8 frames so far. so, in other words, it almost half paid for itself already....

edit: maybe 1/3 paid for......all depends....
 
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mad dog1

mad dog1

G.O.A.T.
gflyer said:
I've been reading about the eagnas swivel clamps.
Many suggested to go with the spring assisted (combo models) but some complained about them and suggested to go with cone ones (flex model i guess).
Any comments on this?
I am leaning more towards the spring assisted.
mad_dog1 I read I read your review and you said they are pretty much equivalent for you. But if you had to choose one?
Sorry for the too many questions.
The moment I'll get my new machine I'll get drinks for everybody :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

it's six of one, a half-dozen of the other. the cone swivels don't require as much maintenance/adjusting but require a bit more effort to lock & unlock while the spring assisted swivels are easier to lock/unlock but require more maintenance. you need to tighten them every few string jobs to ensure they aren't slipping. if i had a choice, i'd go w/ the cone lock swivels since they require less adjusting.
 
mad dog1

mad dog1

G.O.A.T.
tbuggle said:
a little, but i counter it as best i can by pushing the base toward the tension head before clamping it.
Click to expand...

actually, you should be pushing the base away from the tension head before clamping it because when you release tension the string w/ drawback away from the tension head. if you're pushing toward the tension head, you're going to get more drawback.
 
Lakers4Life

Lakers4Life

Hall of Fame
mad dog1 said:
actually, you should be pushing the base away from the tension head before clamping it because when you release tension the string w/ drawback away from the tension head. if you're pushing toward the tension head, you're going to get more drawback.
Click to expand...

Since you are using a Glide bar machine it's opposite of a swivle clamp machine. I push against the post/hosel, after clamping the string, towards the tension head.
 
S

struggle

Legend
mad dog1 said:
actually, you should be pushing the base away from the tension head before clamping it because when you release tension the string w/ drawback away from the tension head. if you're pushing toward the tension head, you're going to get more drawback.
Click to expand...

i'm trying to maintain as much of the tension head tension as possible, so it seems counterintuitive to me to push the clamp away from the tension head.
i push the base clamp toward the tension head after clamping the string, then lock the base. seems right to me, but i'm new to these clamps and willing to learn more. please explain.

edit: yes, if you are using a ektelon/neos i can see where you are coming from, the bases on those don't move in the same sense during drawback......i think.
 
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Lakers4Life

Lakers4Life

Hall of Fame
Glide bar machine clamps are dual action. There is a slight amount of slack on the glide bar side rails. In order to reduce draw back, the side closest to the tension head needs to be pushed, before clamping to ensure the slack is taken up.
 
mad dog1

mad dog1

G.O.A.T.
tbuggle said:
i'm trying to maintain as much of the tension head tension as possible, so it seems counterintuitive to me to push the clamp away from the tension head.
i push the base clamp toward the tension head after clamping the string, then lock the base. seems right to me, but i'm new to these clamps and willing to learn more. please explain.

edit: yes, if you are using a ektelon/neos i can see where you are coming from, the bases on those don't move in the same sense during drawback......i think.
Click to expand...

when i was using the eagnas, i was first pushing toward the tension head. but i watched the direction that the clamps were getting pulled after i clamped and released tension and the hosels were flexing/getting pulled back away from the tension head so i figured, why not push the hosels the same direction to "preload" the clamps. anyways, i didn't find either method to provide more consistent results. i'm curious if i'd encounter the same inconsistent results on say a star 5 or gamma 6004 stringer. i would venture to guess that i probably would get great results from either of these machines.

but on the neos, i'm definitely doing what you and lakers4life are saying and getting very consistent results.
 
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A

aznfatmonkey

Rookie
locking base clamps

After stringing some racquets, one of my base clamps isn't locking as well. The lever seems like it's loose. I looked on the manual, and the place it told me to adjust doesn't exist on my clamp :confused: If you look at the pictures I posted, it says I'm supposed to adjust something at the place where the black circle thing is, but there's nothing for me to adjust. I tried to see if the black thing was covering something up, but I can't take it off. Help anybody?
 
A

aznfatmonkey

Rookie
I have the ones that came with the machine, so I think they're the swivel lock. I posted pictures of it when I first got it on this thread.
 
Lakers4Life

Lakers4Life

Hall of Fame
aznfatmonkey said:
21mxp9x.jpg
Click to expand...

I think it's that black dot, it's a cap. There was another picture somewhere around here that shows a allen wrench inserted.
 
A

alcheng

Rookie
aznfatmonkey said:
After stringing some racquets, one of my base clamps isn't locking as well. The lever seems like it's loose. I looked on the manual, and the place it told me to adjust doesn't exist on my clamp :confused: If you look at the pictures I posted, it says I'm supposed to adjust something at the place where the black circle thing is, but there's nothing for me to adjust. I tried to see if the black thing was covering something up, but I can't take it off. Help anybody?
Click to expand...

There are 2 ways you can adjust the clamp base, however, the method mention in the manual doesn't really work. So, please read the following:

1) If you look under the clamp-base, underneath the turn-table, there are 2 hex-shape nut, you can use a tool to adjust the nut, BUT, just turn a LITTLE BIT at a time cos there are VERY SENSITIVE to the tightness of the clamp base.

2) On the clamp base, use a tiny screw-driver to take off the plastic cap, which is the round-shape plastic on the clamp base. Once you take off the cap, you'll see a screw which can adjust by the enclosed hex-driver. This screw actually connect to the hex-nut mentioned in (1). Again, adjust this screw LITTLE BIT at a time.

After each tiny adjustment, lock the clamp base to see is it tight enough, I prefer turning the handle about half way to tighten the base. It's up to you to adjust to you desire level.

Hope it helps.

:):)

ps The 'Cap' I mention in (2) is NOT the black cap, it the cap ON the clamp base, which is a plastic cap painted the same color of the base.
 
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A

aznfatmonkey

Rookie
I've tried turning the hex nuts on the bottom, but they turn without tightening for some reason. I want to try the other way, but I can't find the cap you're talking about.
 
mad dog1

mad dog1

G.O.A.T.
aznfatmonkey said:
I've tried turning the hex nuts on the bottom, but they turn without tightening for some reason. I want to try the other way, but I can't find the cap you're talking about.
Click to expand...

check out this thread...there's a diagram in there on page 2 that shows the exploded view of the parts that you can refer to

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=326518

but you should have a black plastic plug that covers this hole that the allen wrench is being inserted into...that's how you make micro adjustments.

IMG_6956.jpg


in fact i see the black cap on the swivel base clamp of your machine in the photo above.
 
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A

aznfatmonkey

Rookie
mad dog1 said:
check out this thread...there's a diagram in there on page 2 that shows the exploded view of the parts that you can refer to

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=326518

but you should have a black plastic plug that covers this hole that the allen wrench is being inserted into...that's how you make micro adjustments.

IMG_6956.jpg


in fact i see the black cap on the swivel base clamp of your machine in the photo above.
Click to expand...

Oh, sorry. I said I couldn't find the cap because somebody else said it wasn't the black cap. Thanks for the quick reply.

One more question. How do you remove the black cap? Do you just pull it off?
 
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