You must spend a lot of time using the bold and underline buttons.
How about some italics?
FWIW, I don't mean to endorse the pre-stretch feature, but manual pre-stretching.
Is stringing poly on a crank an issue ?
- Thread starter counterpuncher
- Start date
You must spend a lot of time using the bold and underline buttons.
How about some italics?
FWIW, I don't mean to endorse the pre-stretch feature, but manual pre-stretching.
For what its worth, all of the text is put into italics once it has been quoted, IMHO FWIW lazy people who only read a post in diagonal or retain very little, if their attention is only drawn to the most interesting points, then perhaps it was worth taking the time to use the bold and underline buttons. Once you get the hang of it, it doesn't take too long, you should give it a try, you may even enjoy it.
I agreed with you on manual pre-stretching, thanks for the explanation.
JB
PS. how about some colours ?
kashgotmoney
Professional
crank is good, the more you do it, the beter your string jobs, because the more you do it, the more consistent you get in pulling the crank so its the right tension...
im some way crank is better than constant pull, lets say you clamp one main one second or couple seconds later or earlier than the other main, since its constant pull, it pulls for a couple seconds longer causing different tensions.
so all you have to do is be consistent with your timing on pulling the crank on your machine. thats all.
im some way crank is better than constant pull, lets say you clamp one main one second or couple seconds later or earlier than the other main, since its constant pull, it pulls for a couple seconds longer causing different tensions.
so all you have to do is be consistent with your timing on pulling the crank on your machine. thats all.
You have that backwords.That is exactly why a constant pull is more accurate than a crank, as a constant pull will continue to pull the exact tension you set, until you clamp that tension.So if you set it at 60lbs. you will clamp 60 lbs. reference tension. Whereas with a crank, if you clamp at different time intervals, the reference tension finally clamped can vary, as the string can stretch.
Also on stringing crosses, a constant pull will allow you time to straighten those strings while it is pulling, whereas a crank is more difficult to straighten at same time it is being pulled, and if it is straightened later, this will give you inconsistencies, due to different amount of straightening on each string resulting in different tensions.
I am not saying you cannot do a good job with a crank, it is just that you have to be more careful with one when stringing,compared to a constant pull, just the opposite of what you said.
Jim e
I am quite surprised that your very constructive comments have not led to further discussions on this subject.
In fact your explanations are not only true, but you have not attempted to discredit the crank machines, which when used by a stringer who is well aware of the potential inconveniences can compensate and minimize the negative effects that could result from the use of a lock-out tensioner.
It is of course a "touchy" subject, but rather than fighting over the the rights and wrongs of the LOs and the CPs, look at the ways to make the most out of your stringing machine to get the best possible results.
Understanding the way these machines really work, recognizing the risks when stringing polys and co-polymer monos is not an attack on the lock-outs (nor the electonics), you can do a quality string job on these machines, but it's not as easy as a top-end DW and the risks of damaging the strings are much higher, but this has been already explained in detail.
What you should be looking at are the SBS readings on the finished string job and compare these results with the set tensions required to obtain these values. If you don't have an ERT or a StringLab, you can always check the tensions on the mains with a Stringmeter. If the average readings show a tension loss of -15% less than the set tension, then you need to take a close look at the way you string and take steps to improve the results.
Otherwise, it would be preferable to avoid stringing polys, this was the initial object of this thread.
JB
counterpuncher
Hall of Fame
All of the replies and discussion have been much appreciated and it has been interesting to hear the debate about constant pull vs. lock-out. It has definitely influenced my decision and I am now leaning towards a laserfibre quantum - given that they do now exist : )
Bud
Bionic Poster
Cool... let us know if they ship it in a timely manner and don't give you the runaround
origmarm
Hall of Fame
Many thanks JB, LSS, Bud, Jim for an excellent thread. I feel I've really learned a lot reading this. I'm going to experiment a bit with my dropweight next time I string mono i.e. deliberately string two racquets at the same tension in different ways and see how it works out.
kashgotmoney
Professional
ok so i just calibrated my eagnas 700 le and after it locked out, it still read 60 lbs after 30 seconds. i know its not poly but if it takes you longer than 30 seconds to clamp, your in trouble, it takes me a couple seconds to clamp.
since you string your own racquets, you get more and more consistent in the timings and you eventually get used to the tension and thats why your tension on your crank machine is different than electric ones, because on crank you find something comfortable you like thats the right tension.
so basically if you are really consistent with the timings with clamping you should be fine.
yes, cp is better but crank does a phenominal job also, maybe one pound difference, so string one pound up.
so just now, i calibrated with a poly and it lost 1 pound in 15 seconds.
i was using scrap piece of bigbanger
so just be consistent with your timing,
slow on cranking but fast and consistent on clamping.
since you string your own racquets, you get more and more consistent in the timings and you eventually get used to the tension and thats why your tension on your crank machine is different than electric ones, because on crank you find something comfortable you like thats the right tension.
so basically if you are really consistent with the timings with clamping you should be fine.
yes, cp is better but crank does a phenominal job also, maybe one pound difference, so string one pound up.
so just now, i calibrated with a poly and it lost 1 pound in 15 seconds.
i was using scrap piece of bigbanger
so just be consistent with your timing,
slow on cranking but fast and consistent on clamping.
kashgotmoney
Professional
yes, for ultimate precision in tension, use constant pull but only for half a pound to one pound difference, that you dont care about because you string one pound up, get crank.
Bud
Bionic Poster
The small difference is insignificant.
Do you hit tennis balls with the last main or 2?
Bud
Bionic Poster
How did you measure the tension/tension loss?
kashgotmoney
Professional
While you are on the subject of cp/lockout.
According to the USRSA, their take on this is:
At any given reference tension, the stringbed stiffness will be lower on a lockout stringing machine (those using a spring-tension system) than on a constant-pull stringing machine (those using an electronic or drop-weight tensioning system).
Different string materials and constructions, and different racquet head sizes, will require different amounts of compensation to match the stringbed stiffness produced by a constant-pull machine to that produced by a lockout machine.
So there is a variance on this, with certain things to consider.That is why they developed a calculator on their web site, to convert from one type machine to the other, giving you a high and low range, example,lower range for smaller size heads, and stiffer strings, and higher end range for larger heads with strings that will elongate.On their calculator you type in a reference# of one type machine, and it will give you a high and low range reference #'s of the other type of machine, and then you make the adjustments in that range for the different types of strings, and head size.(taking into consideration not going over manuf. recommendations for tensions).
Therefore it seems like they went to some extreme lenghts to give us a figure to convert from one type to another, and usually when something like this is published, it sort of sets the standard of care sort of speaking, rather than just increasing or decreasing 1 or 2 lbs.
With increasing the knot tie offs, it also helps keep that last string straighter, due to the offset weave of the adjacent string.Also most of the tour stringers up the tie offs as well as a # of the slam stringers.(Also the high end electronic machines put that knot buttton there for a reason). So I see no reason not to make that string the proper tension
Important thing on this issue is to be consistant with what you do, as there are no definite rules on this topic of knot tie offs.
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Robbie_1988
Semi-Pro
Hi Jim, if it is of not too much inconvenience can you please provide a link to this feature on the USRSA site please? Thanks in advanced.
Bud
Bionic Poster
Consistency between all of your stringing jobs is the most important thing.
If the last main is 3-5 lbs off due to the knot/tension loss, don't lose sleep over it. It makes no difference to the part of the string bed that strikes the ball. If you don't believe me, try it and mark the string at every grommet and watch how much they move over the life of your string job.
Bud
Bionic Poster
Agreed.
However, overtensioning the last mains is not a critical component of stringing consistency.
Being consistant on this subject is either increasing all the tie offs on the racquets you string the same, or not increasing them at all, just be consistant with your preference.There is no ruling on this at this time.
There is no overtensioning for the final result.
Overtensioning is making the tension higher than desired, and that is not done here. After you string the mains on a 2 piece job, pluck the mains in order, and you should hear an increase in pitch on each shorter main. The end ones should sound just a slight higher as they do for me when I use that nice knot button to increase the tie offs, once the knot is tied and unclamped.I tie a good cinched up knot as well, as I was taught that parnell knot many years ago before it even had a name, and there is always some tension lost with the knot taking up some of the tension.
I remember a post on the "other site" where R. Parnell stated he ups his tie offs 3kgs. and another slam stringer upped his 5kgs. and had his own reasons.
It was also mentioned that most of the tour stringers up the tie offs as well. I only use the button which is 10%, and that seems just about correct.[ As I said there are no rules governing this issue. Consistancy is what is important,(words from Tim Strawm, from gss)], as this issue can be beatened up over and over, and no one is wrong at this point.
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Here is the page on their site. I believe you will need to be a member to access it.
It is a converter calculator they have , to give you a range, it is all explained there.Jim
http://www.usrsa.com/members/tools/cp2lockout.html
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Bud
Bionic Poster
Give us your username and password so we may access it :lol:
It is very reasonable fee to be a member, and with the string samples you get throughout the year, its just about a payback.(Last year I received Gamma zo tour,Wilson K gut, Wilsons Champions choice, Tecnifibire xr3 and TVG, Prince Recoil,a lux. string, and a pro supex string).A very worthwhile orginization that is there to better the stringing profession.The RSI magazine, web access, their digest that is updated twice a year, and a technician to speak to if you have a stringing problem.They were not around 40 years ago, when I was first stringing, and no internet help as well. Stringers are far better off now with all this wealth of knowledge. This orginization adds to it all.
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Bud
Bionic Poster
So... is that a no on the username and password?? :lol:
D
Deleted member 25923
Guest
If I join USRSA in June, does the fee cover me until June of 2010, or is only good for the remainder of 2009?
D
Deleted member 25923
Guest
Gamma Zo Tour: $13.95
Wilson K gut: $22
Wilson Champion's Choice: $29
Tecnifibre xr3: $12.50
Tecnifibre TVG: $13.50
Prince Recoil: $24.50
Total: $115.45
And that's not including the strings from Luxilon and Pro supex. With those, it would probably be $130-140
And a USRSA member ship costs $109 for a year. Seems like a great deal.
