Is Yonex RD7 really such a hassle to string? Advice wanted!

[Ross K]

Am taking a close look at the legendary RD7 and am shortly going to send it off for a new string-job. However, after searching and coming across older posts/threads (not a huge amount of info out there actually), I can't believe the contradictory and complex opinions expressed...

"String it 1 piece with box stringing technique"...

"Follow Yonex's practice of using 2-piece stringing and dropping tension on crosses by 5 per cent over mains (eg, 60 lbs mains would be paired with 57 lbs crosses)"...

"1 piece/2 piece doesn't matter as long as crosses are strung top down... bottom to top is not thought good on Yonex's"...

So... 1 piece?... 2 piece?... crosses strung top down?... dropping tension on crosses by 5 per cent?... what's the strory here RD7/Yonex users/stringers!?

TIA,

R.

BTW, Any thoughts on tensions and which kind of strings work well in the RD7 - gratefully received!

 

[chrisplchs]

those are just different ways to string it.

the only rule is: string crosses top down, which is true for all modern Yonex frames.

Yonex recommended dropping tension 5% on crosses to enhance playability. Quite a few people I know do it and they seem to like it

 

[DennisK]

I always string my Yonex's with 2-piece and the crosses top - down even if not using a hybrid. The squarer isometric head shape concentrates more stress on the hoop, so you want to lessen this as much as possible.

A conventional 1-piece job either makes you string the crosses bottom to top, or puts too much stress on a part of the frame where you don't want to when setting off on your first cross.

I also drop the crosses 2lbs.

 

[nCode747]

Please excuse my ignorance, but does top down mean you start your crosses from the top and work down?

 

[Ross K]

Guys,

Cheers for replies.

So... it seems ppl agree you should always string RD7 with crosses top down... cool ...

But 1 piece or 2 piece?... there's a difference in opinions expressed above... anyone else got a view?... and pardon my ignorance but what EXACTLY is 1 piece and 2 piece - what do the terms mean precisely? (Just want to make sure I'm understanding this correctly.)

Incidentally, originally (before I became confused - LOL!) I was simply considering a good multi full job @ about 57 lbs... is this just not a good idea then?

Basically any views on any of this set up, 1 or 2 piece stringing, as well as string/tension tips for the RD7 very gratefully received!:roll:

TIA,

R.

 

[Standupnfall]

You can use the same type of string for each piece in a 2 piece. 1 piece will have 1 long piece of string and only 2 knots.
2 piece uses separate pieces for the mains and the crosses and will have 4 knots total.

If you are not too familiar with stringing I would probably go 2 piece since less can go wrong,. The USRSA digest also doesnt give info for a 1 piece on an RD7.

For your RD7 2 piece, measure at least 19 feet for the mains and 17 feet for the crosses.

You will then string the mains starting from the middle doing up to 3 strings on each side at a time, then tie off at the 6th hole from the center main on each side, at the bottom (or throat).
Then start the mains at the top tying off at 8H and work your way down ad tie off 8T (8 throat, or 8th hole from a center main which is #1)

good luck and post any more Q's you may have.

 

[goakka]

i string every racket in a two piece, stringing the crosses from top down. who really about the extra foot of string. in a reel it will properly cost you a length of the mains and its so much easier to string

 

[Ross K]

Cheers guys ^^...

And would you agree it's essential to string the crosses 5 per cent or 3 per cent (again, I've heard conflicting reports) lower?... is this what everyone does with their Yonex's and RD7's?

If it is... and presuming a full multi would actually play well in an RD7... am I right in thinking my original idea of something like RIP Control would therefore be strung @ approx. 57/55 lbs?...

Cheers,

R.

BTW, If anyone has any further thoughts on that set up (like, it might completely suck in the RD7 - LOL!) - please chime in!...

 

[DennisK]

Full multi around the mid 50lbs is an ideal place to start. Although personally, I'd love to see what a full bed of poly would be like.

The RD-7 is known to be a total spin machine and full poly would be lots of fun I'd imagine.

 

[Ross K]

^^^

Thanks Dennis... precisely the kind of info I'm interested in...

Agree about the poly comment too... think i'll try try it sometime with a soft poly if it turns out I like the RD7 enough (which really means - if it turns out I can actually swing the hefty RD7 for 3 sets! )

Notice from your sig you use the RDX 500... a recent remark from another TT poster re how it compares (favorably) to the RD7 has got me a bit curious about this frame... hmm... if it does indeed retain something of that big booming, crushing power on serve and groundies, has improved maneuverability, and similarish spin, I might see if I can pick 1 up cheap on fboy or wherever...

Cheers,

R.

 

[pelusi]

Polystar eneregy 23-22 kg
TopSping cyberflasht 22-21 kg

 

[DennisK]

Notice from your sig you use the RDX 500... a recent remark from another TT poster re how it compares (favorably) to the RD7 has got me a bit curious about this frame... hmm... if it does indeed retain something of that big booming, crushing power on serve and groundies, has improved maneuverability, and similarish spin, I might see if I can pick 1 up cheap on fboy or wherever...

Cheers,

R.

Good luck finding a used RDX500MP or mid. People generally like to keep hold of them. I wish I had a second one too.

They do turn up from time to time, but the sellers ask for silly money.

 

[origmarm]

Ross, I don't remember these being a particular problem to string. My brother had them and I always strung them 2 piece, crosses top to bottom. Dropped the crosses 5% or a few lbs to be thereabouts. That's not 100% necessary but I found it played better and it used to be a Yonex recommendation (not sure if it still is). Same with all Yonex frames I've strung.

You can also do an "around the world" 1 piece to allow you to string the crosses top to bottom but it's more complicated than just going two piece.

One piece vs two piece literally means using one piece of string for the whole stringing job or using two pieces, one for the mains and one for the crosses.

Re the string my bro loves SPPP 1.18 in his at 55lbs.

Cheers, Orig

 

[dgdawg]

I haven't read all these posts, but...the USRAS Stringer's Digest shows a 2 pirce for this frame. (as a 1piece length not given)
This is common with most Head frames as well.
My recommendation is: follow the string pattern
This is only MY policy. I know a lot of stringers do Head frames 1 piece that "call" for 2 piece. They just do ATW.
I struggled with this a bit so I called the USRSA and Head.
They both told me the same thing.
It is recommended 2 piece when specified. 1 pc. will void warranty.
With this in mind, I'd hate to break a customers frame and have Head say "it wasn't strung to our spec's"

 

[Ross K]

Thanks Rob and dg... will certainly keep that advice in mind.

 

[Ross K]

pelusi,

I'm already a fan of Poly Energy and can imagine it would play beautifully in the RD7.

 

[DennisK]

pelusi,

I'm already a fan of Poly Energy and can imagine it would play beautifully in the RD7.

Check my sig.

 

[pelusi]

pelusi,

I'm already a fan of Poly Energy and can imagine it would play beautifully in the RD7.

Try it for 22 to 23 kg and then say what was your