My Modified BLX 6.0 95 18x20 - Whole 'nother Level of Solid Feel and Precision.

travlerajm

Talk Tennis Guru
I just picked up a used BLX 6.0 95 18x20, extensively modified it how I like it. And I have to say, there is something about this frame that stands out compared to the other frames I've been using.

Even my first time out with it, when I tried it out stock before modifications, I could tell that something about it felt more solid and accurate than any stock racquet.

My Modifications:
1. Add 20g of lead tape (2 layers all the way round the top of hoop from 8:30 to 3:30).
2. Remove buttcap, saw off 1/4" with hacksaw, replace buttcap to create perfect-length frame.
3. Place two layers of thin strips lead tape (first layer 1/4" and 2nd layer 1/8") along left edge of both face bevels to align pallet with stringbed (the pallet of this particular frame was rotated 2-degrees in misalignment, a common but usually unnoticed issue with wilson racquets that affects performance if not corrected for).
4. To create wide and properly contoured butt flare, tightly stretch a yonex overgrip around butt end (over the replacement grip) 8-10 wraps around at base. Over synthetic replacement grip, but underneath outer tournament overgrip.
5. Add about 12g of lead tape wrapped around top of handle to reach my target specs:
Final strung specs (using as received run-o-the-mill tightly strung yellow 17g poly):
Length: 26-5/8"
SW: 364
MgR/I: 21.0
Bal: 12.54"
Wt: 13.53 oz.

I'm actually not sure what is so different. But it just feels like all the mass in the head of the frame is in the right spots to make the impact feel solid. Is it the foam? Is it just the slightly smaller headsize combined with the 18x20 and stiff 22mm beam? Is the throat more twist-resistant? Hard to say. But it's certainly more solid than my Blade BLX 98 or my Speed Pro, both doctored up to similar specs.

The strings in the racquet (as I receive it) are not particular special, and low-powered and not particulary spin-friendly or anything. This frame feels to me like it is probably very string insensitive. Kind of feels like I could put just about anything in there and it would still work well.

Today I was hitting my forehand better and with more confidence than I ever have in my life before. The extra accuracy lets me go for shots I ordinarily wouldn't go for.

And my serve - the extra solidness and accuracy was givng me confidence to take bigger rips on the serve. This helped to resolve a bi weakness in my game recently (I used to have a huge heavy serve, but lately I've developed the bad habit of tentatively babying it in). My explosive serve was back today! I can crush it again.

And volleys might be the the best thing about this frame. It is the perfectly designed volley tool.
 

pitsquared

Rookie
I just picked up a used BLX 6.0 95 18x20, extensively modified it how I like it. And I have to say, there is something about this frame that stands out compared to the other frames I've been using.

Even my first time out with it, when I tried it out stock before modifications, I could tell that something about it felt more solid and accurate than any stock racquet.

My Modifications:
1. Add 20g of lead tape (2 layers all the way round the top of hoop from 8:30 to 3:30).
2. Remove buttcap, saw off 1/4" with hacksaw, replace buttcap to create perfect-length frame.
3. Place two layers of thin strips lead tape (first layer 1/4" and 2nd layer 1/8") along left edge of both face bevels to align pallet with stringbed (the pallet of this particular frame was rotated 2-degrees in misalignment, a common but usually unnoticed issue with wilson racquets that affects performance if not corrected for).
4. To create wide and properly contoured butt flare, tightly stretch a yonex overgrip around butt end (over the replacement grip) 8-10 wraps around at base. Over synthetic replacement grip, but underneath outer tournament overgrip.
5. Add about 12g of lead tape wrapped around top of handle to reach my target specs:
Final strung specs (using as received run-o-the-mill tightly strung yellow 17g poly):
Length: 26-5/8"
SW: 364
MgR/I: 21.0
Bal: 12.54"
Wt: 13.53 oz.

I'm actually not sure what is so different. But it just feels like all the mass in the head of the frame is in the right spots to make the impact feel solid. Is it the foam? Is it just the slightly smaller headsize combined with the 18x20 and stiff 22mm beam? Is the throat more twist-resistant? Hard to say. But it's certainly more solid than my Blade BLX 98 or my Speed Pro, both doctored up to similar specs.

The strings in the racquet (as I receive it) are not particular special, and low-powered and not particulary spin-friendly or anything. This frame feels to me like it is probably very string insensitive. Kind of feels like I could put just about anything in there and it would still work well.

Today I was hitting my forehand better and with more confidence than I ever have in my life before. The extra accuracy lets me go for shots I ordinarily wouldn't go for.

And my serve - the extra solidness and accuracy was givng me confidence to take bigger rips on the serve. This helped to resolve a bi weakness in my game recently (I used to have a huge heavy serve, but lately I've developed the bad habit of tentatively babying it in). My explosive serve was back today! I can crush it again.

And volleys might be the the best thing about this frame. It is the perfectly designed volley tool.

How does your placement of lead tape around the hoop from 8:30 to 3:30 affect the frame in contrast to placing the lead at 10 and 2? Does it increase stability on off-centered shots to a similar degree? I play with an H22 which is incredibly stable and powerful while still being relatively not-too-heavy and headlight and I've been trying to replicate that in a retail frame. I've had my eye on the most current 6.1 95 since its so cheap and tinkering with lead tape.
 

travlerajm

Talk Tennis Guru
How does your placement of lead tape around the hoop from 8:30 to 3:30 affect the frame in contrast to placing the lead at 10 and 2? Does it increase stability on off-centered shots to a similar degree? I play with an H22 which is incredibly stable and powerful while still being relatively not-too-heavy and headlight and I've been trying to replicate that in a retail frame. I've had my eye on the most current 6.1 95 since its so cheap and tinkering with lead tape.
I think having the lead tape spread more uniformly does tend to improve the feel a little bit in general. If the frame is mass-deficient at 12 o'clock, then the power gradient in the upper hoop becomes noticeably steeper (bigger power dropoff higher in the hoop). So spreading the mass more evenly around the upper half of the hoop flattens out the power gradient (enlarges the sweetspot).

I'm actually not sure why this frame feels so connected compared to my Blade and my Speedpro - the groundies of these slightly larger frames are quite good, but the 6.1 95 clearly outshines the larger heads on serves - the serve trajectory accuracy is clearly better with the 6.1 95 18x20, which gives me more confidence to swing harder, resulting in bigger serves with better dipping action. It feels like the sweet spot is more directly connected to the frame than with my other racquets, so that the mass of the frame is transferred more efficiently to the ball. A bit of a paddle-like feel, but a paddle that still harnesses the energy-return of the strings, with the direction of the rebound more closely linked to the racquetface angle (thereby improving accuracy). I'd actually describe it as a hammer-like feel. It may be simply that I hadn't leaded up a small-headed frame to this extent before that had sufficient stiffness for this "connected feel" effect. Notably, this modified 6.1 95 has equivalent mass in the upper hoop to a standard length frame with 380 SW. The only other similar-headsize frame that I've leaded up to similar swingweight was my Diablo mid, but since the Diablo is much thinner beam and flexier, it doesn't give nearly the connected popping feel on serves (where the sweet spot is higher in the stringbed).
 
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