Pro String Claws--best way to use?

[Robert F]

Got a pair of Pro Stringer 2.0 Claws. They are sleek. Seem like they are the Ferraris of floating clamps/claws.
Really well built and smooth action to open and close.

I have old floating clamps that came with my Klippermate stringer. Those have worked well for several years, but as they have aged once in a while I'd have some slippage, hence me wanting to try the Pro Stringer Claws.

I tried using today. Honestly, the Klippermate Clamps are easier to put in place and clamp and unclamp.

How deep should one put the strings on the Pro Stringer Clamps?

If I clamp them on the top of the string bed, they fall onto the racquet, is that OK?

They also seem a little harder to align with all the strings compared to my Klippermates (which are not Ferrari's in appearance--more like a stock car).

 

[Tennis_dude101]

I don't have them, but I'm guessing you push the claws in so that the width if the V matches the spacing of the string.
If your having trouble with them falling try placing them from underneath...I've used this method before with my SW clamps.

A video of Tennis Spin using them here:

TD

 

[Robert F]

I watched the vid earlier. As always good stuff. On my klippermate using them underneath works well with the klippermate clamps but are hard to maneuver with the pro stringer clamps. I’ll play around more.

Thanks.

 

[Steve Huff]

Yes, I would use them underneath the strings, not on top of them. They aren't very long, so should fit easily, even under a K-Mate

 

[Irvin]

How deep should one put the strings on the Pro Stringer Clamps?

The claws will clamp different width strings. Place the clamps so there is as little string distortion as possible. The deeper into the string the farther the strings will be pushed apart

If I clamp them on the top of the string bed, they fall onto the racquet, is that OK?

I prefer to clamp from the bottom but it does not matter. With the claws on top they get in the way when weaving. Sometime on the top crosses they get in the way of frame supports, so I must clamp on top but I move them to the bottom as soon as possible.

 

[Sardines]

That is the beauty of the claws, since it can adjust to the string gap, unlike most other floating clamps. There is much less pulling of the string like the Stringways (which I have). Just lock at the natural string gap, which is intuitive. Just make sure you adjust for the right width, which is the problem with all floating clamps. I'm not familiar with the Kiippermate, but on my PS2.0, it's easier to clamp from top for the first 4 mains, due to the center mount, especially when stringing sitting down.
As for the clamp dropping down, that's based on tension. You'll find by the 3rd main, it will stay up. As long as the strings don't slip in the clamp, it's not an issue.

Got a pair of Pro Stringer 2.0 Claws. They are sleek. Seem like they are the Ferraris of floating clamps/claws.
Really well built and smooth action to open and close.

I have old floating clamps that came with my Klippermate stringer. Those have worked well for several years, but as they have aged once in a while I'd have some slippage, hence me wanting to try the Pro Stringer Claws.

I tried using today. Honestly, the Klippermate Clamps are easier to put in place and clamp and unclamp.

How deep should one put the strings on the Pro Stringer Clamps?

If I clamp them on the top of the string bed, they fall onto the racquet, is that OK?

They also seem a little harder to align with all the strings compared to my Klippermates (which are not Ferrari's in appearance--more like a stock car).

 

[Irvin]

it's easier to clamp from top for the first 4 mains,

I like to start mains using a starting clamp outside the frame on the 3rd main, then tension the 2nd main adjacent to the string with the starting clamp and work my way out to the 3rd main on the opposite side. That way claws or clamps never get in the way of each other. Also because of twisting drawback on tie offs I like to string one piece tying off both ends only after all mains and crosses are complete. The pattern of intersecting mains and crosses help to reduce twisting and drawback to almost nothing.

 

[Robert F]

Yeah, just seems clipping from the bottom with the mains get clunky with the center base. It's possible, just takes more work. The Klippermate clamps are angled and can easily angle in and out without really getting in with the frame.
I'm going to try some more, It might just me getting the hang of it

 

[Robert F]

Strung my Blade V7 16x19 using the Pro Stringer Claws. Took everyones advice and clamped from below. Also got the feel of how you angle them in place. They just slide in easily and really clamp the string well.
They clamp and unclamp very easily. Even for the crosses you just angle them in and it grips easily.

Compared to my Klippermate clamps, what is nice is that the Prostringer captures more string when doing mains and more crosses when doing crosses. I think that really prevents any slippage. The disadvantage is they are a little harder to get in when crosses are close to the frame, where the Klippermate were a little easier to maneuver. Klippermate also a little easier to get close to the frame.

Both are good. Much more comfortable using the Pro Stringer claws now that I got the hang of it.

 

[Sardines]

I'm referring to the Pro Stringer mount.

I like to start mains using a starting clamp outside the frame on the 3rd main, then tension the 2nd main adjacent to the string with the starting clamp and work my way out to the 3rd main on the opposite side. That way claws or clamps never get in the way of each other. Also because of twisting drawback on tie offs I like to string one piece tying off both ends only after all mains and crosses are complete. The pattern of intersecting mains and crosses help to reduce twisting and drawback to almost nothing.

 

[Robert F]

I've been enjoying the Pro Stringer Claws now for some time. Very easy to use with poly strings.
Today I strung TNT2 17Gauge at 60 pounds and the claws kept letting the string slip through, wanting to get the string job done I went back to my old Klippermate strings that had no issues holding the string.

Obviously, I just had to tighten the Pro Stringer Claws, but is there any rule of thumb as how tight they should be? I worry if I tighten them too much that they may crunch some of the polys if I forget to loosen them when going back and forth from multifilaments to poly.

 

[Tennis_dude101]

I guess the rule of thumb is tight enough not to slip, a softer nylon string will always need the clamp to be set a bit tighter than poly....

 

[Robert F]

I guess the rule of thumb is tight enough not to slip, a softer nylon string will always need the clamp to be set a bit tighter than poly....

Just frustrating when it slips. Obviously tighten then, just wondering if there was some simple test method or rule of thumb.
Thanks!

 

[topspin2000]

Just frustrating when it slips. Obviously tighten then, just wondering if there was some simple test method or rule of thumb.
Thanks!

Isn't this the same problem with any clamps, including Klippermate clamps? I have the standard Klippermate clamps and am thinking about getting the Pro Stringer claws. But I am not sure if it's worth it. I have to tighten the Klippermate clamps when stringing with synth gut or multi-filaments as they stretch and slip. Polys are never a problem.

 

[Dags]

Just frustrating when it slips. Obviously tighten then, just wondering if there was some simple test method or rule of thumb.
Thanks!

It's not so much as rule of thumb as a tactile response. As you use the clamps, you'll get to know what they should 'feel' like when you close them. Too tight and they require too much pressure to close, too loose and you know they're going to slip before they do.

Unfortunately I think it's one of those areas where it's difficult to give advice other than to keep stringing. The more you use the clamps, the more second nature it becomes. The only other note is to make sure you clean them regularly.

 

[Irvin]

Just frustrating when it slips. Obviously tighten then, just wondering if there was some simple test method or rule of thumb.
Thanks!

I’d take them apart and clean the clamp surfaces well don just rung a shoestring soaked with alcohol through them. When you’re sure they’re clean adjust them.

 

[Robert F]

Isn't this the same problem with any clamps, including Klippermate clamps? I have the standard Klippermate clamps and am thinking about getting the Pro Stringer claws. But I am not sure if it's worth it. I have to tighten the Klippermate clamps when stringing with synth gut or multi-filaments as they stretch and slip. Polys are never a problem.

With my old Klippermate clamps I got them in 2005 or something. Back then I was originally stringing mainly with syn gut. So I either tightened them to hold syn gut/MF, whereas with the ProStringer Claws I've mainly been using them for poly and some hybrids. Didn't really seem to slip with the crosses when having syn gut. But on the mains the syn gut/multifilaments definitely needed the clamps tighter.

Let me add it is much easier to adjust the ProStringer Claws compared to the Klippermate Clamps.
Sometimes the length of the Klippermate Clamps can get in the way of maneuvering them, but on the other hand sometimes the width of the ProStringer's can get in the way too. Seems like an almost even trade off.

 

[topspin2000]

.Didn't really seem to slip with the crosses when having syn gut. But on the mains the syn gut/multifilaments definitely needed the clamps tighter.
.

Exactly my experience with Klippermate clamps. The softer synthetic or multi strings stretch when applying tension on the mains, therefore the strings become thinner and the clamps will slip. That was the most frustrating thing to me. So I have to make sure the clamps are tight enough that these strings don't slip. These strings on cross never slip, only mains. Polys of course don't stretch that much and so never a problem.

 

[EggSalad]

Just frustrating when it slips. Obviously tighten then, just wondering if there was some simple test method or rule of thumb.
Thanks!

I’ve been using the Pro Claws (1.0) for a while now and it really just is a matter of experience. I can look at the tiny gap before I string and decide if I need to tighten a 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn or none at all based on what string type and guage I am using. And of course you can make those adjustments on the fly.

My general finding is that the Pro Claws can be set up to clamp pretty tight without damaging the string, so don’t be afraid to go a bit tighter (visually) than you think you might need.

 

[Robert F]

What's the risk of going too tight? Besides it being a pain to unclamp them?

 

[loosegroove]

What's the risk of going too tight? Besides it being a pain to unclamp them?

Crushing/flattening the string.

 

[Robert F]

I've had that happen more so in the string jaws on the tensioner, if I don't clean the jaws enough the string starts to slide and then it tries to catch then flattens the string. So I clean those fairly frequently.

 

[Sardines]

I've been enjoying the Pro Stringer Claws now for some time. Very easy to use with poly strings.
Today I strung TNT2 17Gauge at 60 pounds and the claws kept letting the string slip through, wanting to get the string job done I went back to my old Klippermate strings that had no issues holding the string.

Obviously, I just had to tighten the Pro Stringer Claws, but is there any rule of thumb as how tight they should be? I worry if I tighten them too much that they may crunch some of the polys if I forget to loosen them when going back and forth from multifilaments to poly.

Which version clamps? The V1 has a little bit more resistance when clamping on strings while adjusted too tight. V2 adjustment is easier. I stripped and reassembled the V1 clamps, and found approximately every ¼ turn of the screw is about 0.05mm on claw 1 and 3 (large), and 0.04 on claw 2, at least for mine. They do show slow use change so require regular maintenance.
V2 claws are a little harder to gauge because of the dial, and the longer fulcrum of the handle makes it stronger but a little less feel on resistance. 1/5th increments seem to work better, esp for gut. We use different color marks for our string preferences. The initial clamp with the starter pin is with V1 claw, cos the pin does scrap off the grip surface. So it is better to use 1 claw on 1 side specific for that.
It's easier to clamp on polys in general because of the extrusion process, which gives a lower variation of thickness than multis and gut, which are also more malleable and thus, as others have mentioned, require a bit more tightening.

 

[Robert F]

I've got Version 2.0. Very sleek. Easy to adjust, just wish there was a way to have clear settings on the dial.

 

[Sardines]

I've got Version 2.0. Very sleek. Easy to adjust, just wish there was a way to have clear settings on the dial.

Well, we put a sticker to mark the dial, and then put markings in color code for the strings we use. For instance, I use 16g gut and 1.18 or 1.20mm poly. So I color code red for me. My kids have blue and yellow for their strings. It's messy but works. Remember that there are variances in thickness of string, especially in multis, so being a smidge tighter isn't always bad.

 

[Pcgolfer]

I just acquired the pro claws, and also own Stringway (2 triples 1 double) and 4 of the gammas. I really enjoy the ability to easily use the pro stringers on varying widths. The pro stringers are great; however, I have one word of caution. The edges of the pro stringers are sharp and can nick the strings as you pull loose string. I had them hang up on a couple occasions. I think an improvement would be to polish the sharp edges. It was a learning experience.

It’s nice having a triple when doing the mains. I use the Stringway triple clamps when spacing is normal. Lastly, there seems to be a lot of hate for the gammas. I have not have had them slip yet. They are not in the class of the other two, but they are adequate. I use the pro claws on the crosses, and occasionally use one Stringway double in tandem with them on the crosses. I even add the gammas in as well on some occasions.

 

[Sardines]

I just acquired the pro claws, and also own Stringway (2 triples 1 double) and 4 of the gammas. I really enjoy the ability to easily use the pro stringers on varying widths. The pro stringers are great; however, I have one word of caution. The edges of the pro stringers are sharp and can nick the strings as you pull loose string. I had them hang up on a couple occasions. I think an improvement would be to polish the sharp edges. It was a learning experience.

That is a lot of clamps! Interesting about the edges. We've string hundreds of times with the claws V1 and 2, and never had an issue with the edges cutting string. The strings are straight when you clamp, no? Even when releasing tension, the pullback of the strings isn't so pronounced that the edges cut into the strings. If anything, the slight give of the clamp pulls one side of the clamp a mm or 2 back. Only when clamping from the top, on the 2nd or 3rd string, would the tension be low where the clamp may lean over more. This problem is more prevalent with the V2, as they are longer, larger and heavier. What machine do you use?

 

[Pcgolfer]

Let me be more specific. The issue was more due to my carelessness. It occurred when I was pulling the slack aver weaving the crosses. On a couple occasions, one of the teeth snagged the string. The sharp edges are on the sides of the teeth. The Stringway edges are rounder. Based on your message, I think it’s more poor technique on my part.

 

[Pcgolfer]

Oh and that doesn’t include the metal clamps from the Klippermate I own. I have a gamma 602 an x-2 and a Klippermate. I rarely use the Klippermate, but it is awesome if you are traveling with it. The entire unit fits in a standard toolbox.

 

[Sardines]

Oh when it comes to portability, we are very happy traveling with the Pro Stringer. It's been to 4 continents already. So much so I'm being pressured by my kids to get a 2nd one so they can start going to different tournaments and I get left having to deal with ITF stringers, wherever I am.