What tension to string at for wilson pro staff 90 (2014 version)

[yescomeon]

I've been playing with the pro staff 90 for a while now with the strings it came with. I've never had it restrung, but I think I should now. I'm a fairly low-medium level intermediate player, what tension should I have it restrung at?

I have no idea about these things apart from the fact thst low tension = more power/less control, and vice versa for high tension. I don't even know what tension would be classified as high and low tension. I've only ever played with rackets which came strung up when I bought them, so I have no idea what tension I've been playing for 2 years of my tennis experience.

also what strings would you recommend, I need something reasonably affordable and last quite long, so I'm guessing natural gut is a no for me. The strings that came with my pro staff 90 are synthetic gut, and the thing I noticed is that they seem to lose their tension fairly quickly and afterwards they move easily, although it was still perfectly playable-ish

 

[MasterZeb]

Have you had any elbow problems before? Can u generate your own power? What are you looking for? Power, spin, or control?

 

[yescomeon]

Have you had any elbow problems before? Can u generate your own power? What are you looking for? Power, spin, or control?

Luckily I haven't had any elbow problems. I definitely do struggle to generate my own power. Often I go for too much and completely miss hit the ball. I'm looking for all three, power, spin and control. I think I would rank control as my no.1 priority, followed by power, and then spin.

 

[MasterZeb]

Luckily I haven't had any elbow problems. I definitely do struggle to generate my own power. Often I go for too much and completely miss hit the ball. I'm looking for all three, power, spin and control. I think I would rank control as my no.1 priority, followed by power, and then spin.

In that case and as you are starting out, go for a multifilament. Do some research and check out some reviews if different multifilament strings to see what u think u would like. The multifilament string will help you in generating that power u want and won't be harsh on you. I suggest something like Wilson NXT control as it probably the best control orientated multi out there. Tensions I would go for about 50-52lbs, maybe even lower. High tensions are regarded around the 60lb mark, with low being around 45lbs. This is all my opinion though, and it doesn't matter. What matters is what's right for your game and what you feel most comfortable with. I suggest trying different strings and different tensions until u find the Perfect set up. Don't stick to one just yet.

 

[yescomeon]

In that case and as you are starting out, go for a multifilament. Do some research and check out some reviews if different multifilament strings to see what u think u would like. The multifilament string will help you in generating that power u want and won't be harsh on you. I suggest something like Wilson NXT control as it probably the best control orientated multi out there. Tensions I would go for about 50-52lbs, maybe even lower. High tensions are regarded around the 60lb mark, with low being around 45lbs. This is all my opinion though, and it doesn't matter. What matters is what's right for your game and what you feel most comfortable with. I suggest trying different strings and different tensions until u find the Perfect set up. Don't stick to one just yet.

Thanks for the advice

 

[Zodd]

I definitely do struggle to generate my own power. Often I go for too much and completely miss hit the ball.

hi there, i see you're asking for string advice but from your answer above i'm wondering if perhaps you should be looking at racquets as well. How developed and technically sound are your strokes?

 

[esgee48]

Wilson's factory string jobs are normally mid point, e.g. 55# and uses 16 Ga SG. After 2 years, you are probably down to about 40-45#. What you may want to switch to depends on what you want. More control means higher tension. More 'power' means lower tension. You want tension maintenance? Then you basically are stuck using 16 Ga. 17 Ga will lose tension in a hurry because there's less material to handle the stress of ball impacts. I would try something like RIP Control in 16 Ga at 55# or higher. If you want to use a multi, go with NXT Control or OS, both at 16 Ga, because those will hold tension better than the regular NXT. 2 cents.

 

[yescomeon]

hi there, i see you're asking for string advice but from your answer above i'm wondering if perhaps you should be looking at racquets as well. How developed and technically sound are your strokes?

I think my strokes are technically ok, still very much work in progress, although I think I have the general racket movement correct - racket drop, circular swing follow through. Developed? Probably not. My timing is average, I can't rally at more than medium pace. I figured if I play with a difficult and unforgiving racket like the wilson pro staff 90, then it will force me swing fully as possible. But I'm open to suggestion for rackets

 

[yescomeon]

Wilson's factory string jobs are normally mid point, e.g. 55# and uses 16 Ga SG. After 2 years, you are probably down to about 40-45#. What you may want to switch to depends on what you want. More control means higher tension. More 'power' means lower tension. You want tension maintenance? Then you basically are stuck using 16 Ga. 17 Ga will lose tension in a hurry because there's less material to handle the stress of ball impacts. I would try something like RIP Control in 16 Ga at 55# or higher. If you want to use a multi, go with NXT Control or OS, both at 16 Ga, because those will hold tension better than the regular NXT. 2 cents.

What does 16 ga and 17 ga mean?

 

[esgee48]

Ga is shorthand for gauge (string's diameter or cross sectional area.) 16 Ga is around 1.30 mm; 17 Ga is around 1.25 mm; 15L is ~ 1.35 mm; etc. For strings that come in different gauges, thinner strings generally hold tension WORSE than thicker strings at the same reference tension.

 

[tk243]

I've been playing with the pro staff 90 for a while now with the strings it came with. I've never had it restrung, but I think I should now. I'm a fairly low-medium level intermediate player, what tension should I have it restrung at?

I have no idea about these things apart from the fact thst low tension = more power/less control, and vice versa for high tension. I don't even know what tension would be classified as high and low tension. I've only ever played with rackets which came strung up when I bought them, so I have no idea what tension I've been playing for 2 years of my tennis experience.

also what strings would you recommend, I need something reasonably affordable and last quite long, so I'm guessing natural gut is a no for me. The strings that came with my pro staff 90 are synthetic gut, and the thing I noticed is that they seem to lose their tension fairly quickly and afterwards they move easily, although it was still perfectly playable-ish

Natural gut lasts for ages if you don't play when it's wet outside and you're not a chronic string breaker. Keeps its tension better than anything else too.
It also opens out the sweet spot on the Pro Staff 90 a bit more (which can have a bit of a dead upper hoop), so you'll be able to hit a slight bit more consistently.

Maybe just go for some Babolat Tonic+ at 52lbs and see what happens?
If you break it too fast then never buy it again

 

[Zodd]

I think my strokes are technically ok, still very much work in progress, although I think I have the general racket movement correct - racket drop, circular swing follow through. Developed? Probably not. My timing is average, I can't rally at more than medium pace. I figured if I play with a difficult and unforgiving racket like the wilson pro staff 90, then it will force me swing fully as possible. But I'm open to suggestion for rackets

While I absolutely follow your reasoning, using a racquet that is too demanding while really trying to improve will hurt your technique much more than it helps, because you will unknowingly (unless monitored by a good coach/instructor) take shortcuts technique wise which will take a good deal of time to unlearn later on. I've seen it several times and it should be avoided at all costs. It is truly a fine line where you need to closely monitor your progress in order to not hinder development. Again only going off what you've written in this thread I would try a few racquets in the slightly lighter players frame category so not to present too big of a contrast to your current stick. If you truly appreciate the feel of your PS90 and want to stick to Wilson then the closest frames feel wise yet lighter and a bit more forgiving would be the Pro Staff 95 (PS95), or the PS95S which is even livelier due to the more open string pattern as well as the the six.one 95S which is slightly stiffer and regarded as slightly "more powerful". Also remember that a lighter racquet with the inherent qualities you appreciate (feel, flex etc) can easily be modded/customized (balance, swing weight, twist weight) to suit your liking as you improve.

 

[yescomeon]

While I absolutely follow your reasoning, using a racquet that is too demanding while really trying to improve will hurt your technique much more than it helps, because you will unknowingly (unless monitored by a good coach/instructor) take shortcuts technique wise which will take a good deal of time to unlearn later on. I've seen it several times and it should be avoided at all cost. It is truly a fine line where you need to closely monitor your progress in order to not hinder development. Again only going off what you've written in this thread I would try a few racquets in the slightly lighter players frame category so not to present a too big of contrast to your current stick. If you truly appreciate the feel of your PS90 and want to stick to Wilson then the closest frames feel wise yet lighter and a bit more forgiving would be the Pro Staff 95 (PS95), or the PS95S which is even livelier due to the more open string pattern as well as the the six.one 95S which is slightly stiffer and regarded as slightly "more powerful". Also remember that a lighter racquet with the inherent qualities you appreciate (feel, flex etc) can easily be modded/customized (balance, swing weight, twist weight) to suit your liking as you improve.

Thanks for the tip. Just out of interest, what do you think of the babolat rackets?

I've seen so many people use them. Most of the best players around my sort of level use them. Although I've never played with them before, I do wonder if they're easier to hit with?

 

[yescomeon]

Natural gut lasts for ages if you don't play when it's wet outside and you're not a chronic string breaker. Keeps its tension better than anything else too.
It also opens out the sweet spot on the Pro Staff 90 a bit more (which can have a bit of a dead upper hoop), so you'll be able to hit a slight bit more consistently.

Maybe just go for some Babolat Tonic+ at 52lbs and see what happens?
If you break it too fast then never buy it again

I do occasionally play in the wet, well not when it's raining, but when the ground is wet and the ball picks up moisture.

 

[yescomeon]

Ga is shorthand for gauge (string's diameter or cross sectional area.) 16 Ga is around 1.30 mm; 17 Ga is around 1.25 mm; 15L is ~ 1.35 mm; etc. For strings that come in different gauges, thinner strings generally hold tension WORSE than thicker strings at the same reference tension.

ah I see, so the smaller the number, the thicker the strings

I get that thicker strings hold tension better, but what's the trade off?

 

[Zodd]

Thanks for the tip. Just out of interest, what do you think of the babolat rackets?

I've seen so many people use them. Most of the best players around my sort of level use them. Although I've never played with them before, I do wonder if they're easier to hit with?

All the big companies make good racquets. Long time players will have preferences (myself included) which they often strongly voice The important thing though is to find a frame that suits your level (technique and physical ability) and that you like and feel comfortable/confident with. In many cases what decides if one brand is better represented (more popular) than others is the tenacity and success of the local brand rep as well as choices made by the local pro shop/club shop and not because a certain brand is better than others. Babolat have been very successful in their marketing which of course is one part of the explanation of why they are so widely used.

Below is my recommendation, based on transition frames i've used and modified as well as frames i've chosen and modified for students.

Alright, here goes:

Choose a maximum of 3 or 4 frames to thoroughly test - too many to begin with will only get confusing. Head size in the 95 - 100 range. If you are a male of normal build and strength start with static weight somewhere around 10.7 - 11.6 oz and a swing weight roughly in the range of 305 - 325, according to TW's Racquet Finder your pro staff 90 is at 325 but with a high static weight of 12.5 oz. How taxing a frame is to swing is mainly dependent on these two factors. Keep in mind that swing weight is very easy to increase yourself with only slight modification, so if you find a racquet you really like but feels just slightly to light/weak on impact, this is easily remedied.

The only thing to be mindful of is that very stiff racquets, aside from feeling more harsh/unpleasant when miss hit, can cause joint/tendon problems/pain if one is prone to this - Esp. in combination with flawed and improper technique (tense, often miss hitting etc)

Hope this can be of help.

 

[yescomeon]

All the big companies make good racquets. Long time players will have preferences (myself included) which they often strongly voice The important thing though is to find a frame that suits your level (technique and physical ability) and that you like and feel comfortable/confident with. In many cases what decides if one brand is better represented (more popular) than others is the tenacity and success of the local brand rep as well as choices made by the local pro shop/club shop and not because a certain brand is better than others. Babolat have been very successful in their marketing which of course is one part of the explanation of why they are so widely used.

Below is my recommendation, based on transition frames i've used and modified as well as frames i've chosen and modified for students.

Alright, here goes:

Choose a maximum of 3 or 4 frames to thoroughly test - too many to begin with will only get confusing. Head size in the 95 - 100 range. If you are a male of normal build and strength start with static weight somewhere around 10.7 - 11.6 oz and a swing weight roughly in the range of 305 - 325, according to TW's Racquet Finder your pro staff 90 is at 325 but with a high static weight of 12.5 oz. How taxing a frame is to swing is mainly dependent on these two factors. Keep in mind that swing weight is very easy to increase yourself with only slight modification, so if you find a racquet you really like but feels just slightly to light/weak on impact, this is easily remedied.

The only thing to be mindful of is that very stiff racquets, aside from feeling more harsh/unpleasant when miss hit, can cause joint/tendon problems/pain if one is prone to this - Esp. in combination with flawed and improper technique (tense, often miss hitting etc)

Hope this can be of help.

Thank you very much!

 

[esgee48]

ah I see, so the smaller the number, the thicker the strings

I get that thicker strings hold tension better, but what's the trade off?

Trade offs are basically as follows. For the same tension, thicker strings will hold tension better and last longer. Some players will say that the feel is harsher and spin is harder to produce. Some players say thinner strings will feel softer and is easier to produce spin with. I do not fall into either of those categories as I basically use 16 Ga and I can probably produce balls with 700 RPM easily. Pros can produce greater than 1500-2000 RPM. It is technique that produces spin with some help from the strings.

 

[Zodd]

Thank you very much!

No problem, just happy to offer some tips from experience. I've seen many friends and students using too demanding racquets and when they switch for something more suitable, most things tend change for the better quite quickly and both practice and play becomes much more enjoyable. No need to make it unnecessary hard

I can list some of the raqcuets iv'e used as mentioned above if you like. Also when you get hold of frames to try, make sure they're strung similarly - a stiff string strung at high tension will make any frame feel dead/harsh, low powered and just overall unpleasant, esp. the slightly lighter and stiffer frames. If the stringing clearly differs it is well worth having all of them strung with same string and tension - it's the only way to make a truly fair comparison.