Used Prince Neos 1000 Inspection

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
I found a used Prince Neos 1000 locally. It looks to be a little rough cosmetically with some paint wear but the seller says it's in good working condition. He bought it from a country club but never used it since his son lost interest.

I don't know much about these machines except that they are pretty durable and easy to use. What should I look for as far as things that might be broken or out of spec when I inspect it in person?

Do they need to be calibrated? Are there any special parts that should come with it that I should look for to make sure they are included?
 

Rabbit

G.O.A.T.
the easiest thing to do is ask if you can string a racket on it.

Things to look for are:

1. All the mounting parts - throat retainer parts ($20.00 for all if they don't have them)
2. The table turns smoothly; i.e. the brake is not interfering
3. If you have a calibrator, take it and test the tension head
4. Do they have a manual
5. If you string a frame, just check the clamps aren't worn out ($85/each)

Other than that it should be good to go
 

esgee48

G.O.A.T.
^^^^^

I would also ask about the short glide bar or any other parts that are not attached to the machine. And don't forget about the flying clamp that is now included for fan shaped patterns. May or may not have that; may not be needed unless you know someone with fan shaped string patterns.

I would check carefully where there is any corrosion. Surface rust is easy to buff off and repaint. Corroded clamps or tension head is another matter.

PDF manual can be obtained from Max Ply, but easier if you have the OEM version.
 
Check the condition of the glide bars themselves. Do they slide smoothly in the track? Mine are worn so have more play than new, and can bind up if you don't push evenly on the centre of the bar. You can adjust the glide bar feet to a degree, or as I and others have done (but not recommended), apply some grease to them. Just means that you can't string as quickly as in the TW video.

Mine is also missing the tension cover, rubber thumbguard and bolts for the brake and has a broken tension adjuster knob. But really, none of this has prevented me from stringing my racquets. For $175, it was a great deal.

BTW, all the missing pieces can be had through TennisMachines.com
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
the easiest thing to do is ask if you can string a racket on it.

Things to look for are:

1. All the mounting parts - throat retainer parts ($20.00 for all if they don't have them)
2. The table turns smoothly; i.e. the brake is not interfering
3. If you have a calibrator, take it and test the tension head
4. Do they have a manual
5. If you string a frame, just check the clamps aren't worn out ($85/each)

Other than that it should be good to go

Thank you for the items to check with. I am a complete beginner so I appreciate the patience.

I suppose the complication is I've only strung a few racquets on a drop weight last year so I'll probably have to re-learn how to string a racquet from scratch again and I've never used a drop weight so I don't know how to check if it's operating smoothly. I will watch some Youtube videos on how to use a Prince Neos. I probably won't be able to string a racquet on it since I'm meeting him in a public place and it will be partially disassembled for transport.

1. Those are the silver pins that are inserted once the racquet is set in the machine? They were there in the pictures.
2. Which piece is the brake, is it just to lock the table from rotating?
5. Any way to check the clamps without actually stringing a racquet? I guess I could bring a piece of string and clamp it in and see if it remains tight when I pull by hand.
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
Check the condition of the glide bars themselves. Do they slide smoothly in the track? Mine are worn so have more play than new, and can bind up if you don't push evenly on the centre of the bar. You can adjust the glide bar feet to a degree, or as I and others have done (but not recommended), apply some grease to them. Just means that you can't string as quickly as in the TW video.

Mine is also missing the tension cover, rubber thumbguard and bolts for the brake and has a broken tension adjuster knob. But really, none of this has prevented me from stringing my racquets. For $175, it was a great deal.

BTW, all the missing pieces can be had through TennisMachines.com

Any chance you could point out the pieces you are missing in a picture?
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
I looked at some of the pics and it appears one of the glide bars and a clamp is not assembled to the machine but sitting in the lower tray area. Is that a problem? Are the glide bars and clamps supposed to be removable?
 

struggle

Legend
I looked at some of the pics and it appears one of the glide bars and a clamp is not assembled to the machine but sitting in the lower tray area. Is that a problem? Are the glide bars and clamps supposed to be removable?

Yes, that would not be abnormal. They are removable.

What is the asking price? If low enough, it won't matter the condition.
They are built like tanks and if all/most parts are there, it will function
without much input.
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
Yes, that would not be abnormal. They are removable.

What is the asking price? If low enough, it won't matter the condition.
They are built like tanks and if all/most parts are there, it will function
without much input.

Asking price is 400 but I am going to try and get it for less. It's been sitting in his house for 4 years unused. Formerly belonged to a country club and he bought it for his son to string but he lost interest so I think he just wants it gone.
 

Rabbit

G.O.A.T.
You will find using a Neos much easier than a drop weight. From the pictures above, I do not see the flying clamps ( you don't have to have them and they can be purchased from TM as mentioned). The pieces I was referring to are present, they are in the baggie on the tool tray. Those are used to fit the throat of the racket. Basically you can find some that fit 99.9999% of the frames you'll string. No biggie.

I have to say, $400 is a great price if all the tools are included. There is a (appears to be a Gamma) starting clamp and that by itself is $40. The calibrator present is another $30 (which you will use once to check the machine and then you can basically put it in a box). Assorted awls and such....there's probably $150 worth of tools there. $400 is a really good price for all that.
 
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CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
You will find using a Neos much easier than a drop weight. From the pictures above, I do not see the flying clamps ( you don't have to have them and they can be purchased from TM as mentioned). The pieces I was referring to are present, they are in the baggie on the tool tray. Those are used to fit the throat of the racket. Basically you can find some that fit 99.9999% of the frames you'll string. No biggie.

I have to say, $400 is a great price if all the tools are included. There is a (appears to be a Gamma) starting clamp and that by itself is $40. The calibrator present is another $30 (which you will use once to check the machine and then you can basically put it in a box). Assorted awls and such....there's probably $150 worth of tools there. $400 is a really good price for all that.

Thanks, my understanding is the flying clamps are for fan shaped racquets which I don't own nor will I probably ever string. Is the calibrator the green tube looking thing? From the pics does it look like I would have everything I need to string a normal racquet and the machine is not missing or have any broken parts?
 

Turbo_Bob

New User
Thanks, my understanding is the flying clamps are for fan shaped racquets which I don't own nor will I probably ever string. Is the calibrator the green tube looking thing? From the pics does it look like I would have everything I need to string a normal racquet and the machine is not missing or have any broken parts?
Yes the calibrator is the green tube looking thing. From the pics it looks like you have everything you need to string a racket using 2 pieces of string - one for the mains and one for the crosses. I would make the purchase and possibly add a Wise Tension head later on.
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
The calibrator is indeed the "green tube looking thing". The machine looks in pretty good shape for $400. Lots of awls that you won't need that often but the starting clamp and calibrator are nice to haves. You will need some needle-nose and/or curved pliers and you'll be all set. You can clean it with alcohol using rags, Q-tips, toothbrush, pipecleaners and a shoe laced dipped in alcohol for the tension head string plates. If you want to paint it, you can use a good KILTZ metal primer and flat black appliance paint--do not paint the tracks for the glidebars though. Let me know if you want the manual--will just need your e-mail address. Good luck.
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
Thanks guys, this forum is awesome especially this section so much good knowledge.

I don't really care about the cosmetics as long as it works well. I was concerned the glide bars may not glide smoothly due to the finish chipping off but I'll test it when I check it out in person.

Another member was kind enough to send me the Ektelon Neos manual, I think that's the same as the Prince once.
 

Rabbit

G.O.A.T.
The only difference between the Ektelon & Prince Neos is the color. Ektelon is blue and Prince is green.
 

Steve Huff

G.O.A.T.
I don't see a half-length slide bar, which esgee mentioned. It's not a necessity, and you may be able to get one. I comes in handy for around-the-world patterns and when you're doing a one piece. You can easily get by without one though.
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
I don't see a half-length slide bar, which esgee mentioned. It's not a necessity, and you may be able to get one. I comes in handy for around-the-world patterns and when you're doing a one piece. You can easily get by without one though.

He sent me pics of everything he had so I guess the former owner did not have that or use it. Right now my string does one piece around the world and I like how the racquet plays so I may look into buying the half length slide bar. I'm trying to talk a former string I used who no longer strings to teach me how to do it.
 

ejdtennis

New User
You can't go wrong with that Neos and the tools for $400. Should last many many years. Does look like the bottom rubber retainer pad is missing at the tip. You can either put an old piece of replacement grip under the tip of the racquet when mounting or spring for a $20 set of 4 new rubber tip and throat retainer pads at Tennis Machines.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
I got it home, ended up paying $240 for it. It's a little rough cosmetically but I think everything is in working order. The cover and tensioner head is a little bit wobbly on the rail when moving forward and back but doesn't seem to affect function. I checked the calibration and it seems like it might be 1-2 pounds lower than the stated tension.

I went to adjust the allen bolt that's supposed to be in the tension head but I didn't see an allen screw in the hole, it just looks like a silver hole. Maybe the tiny allen screw backed out and was lost?

Here's what I got with it (not the racquet, that's an old racquet I'm going to practice with)

4_2.jpg
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
You can't go wrong with that Neos and the tools for $400. Should last many many years. Does look like the bottom rubber retainer pad is missing at the tip. You can either put an old piece of replacement grip under the tip of the racquet when mounting or spring for a $20 set of 4 new rubber tip and throat retainer pads at Tennis Machines.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I'm not sure which piece you are talking about. Is it a piece where the racquet frame mounts to the machine?
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
Yes, I believe so. There should be rubber mounts on the top of the standards to keep from scratching your frame.

http://www.tennismachines.com/product/tip-and-throat-pad-set/

You probably ought to order these as well.

What you describe as wobbling on the tension head is normal. You got a great deal.

Are the standards the white bumpers that press up against the frame at the tip?

I got what appears to be an unopened throat retainer pack. Do I need just the pads that go on the tip side then?

Here's what I got with the machine:
http://www.tennismachines.com/product/throat-retainer-pack/

Any other parts I need or should buy while I'm ordering?

Any insights on the tension adjustment screw in the tensioner head? I tried several different allen wrenches in the hole and it doesn't appear as if there's a screw or anything to turn. The tension is pretty close to accurate though when I checked with the gamma tensioner.
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
It is probably a good time to take the manual and it parts illustration and see what you may need. For instance, unless the tip and throat pads are pretty new, it would be time for replacements. Check your throat and tip clamps and plugs and make sure all is in good shape. Those throat and tip clamps should last forever but sometimes the mechanism they fit into (the "Dog Kit") can wear out--but it's super cheap to replace (I have a spare just in case). If you have any concern about your tension head, JC at Tennis Machines can give it a tune up. Given what you saved, you have some house money to get it close to superior condition.

Ah, yours got posted just before mine. This is the link to the pads:

http://www.tennismachines.com/product/tip-and-throat-pad-set/

Re the tension adjustment, I'd either call JC and/or send him the tension head and have him tune it up.
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
It is probably a good time to take the manual and it parts illustration and see what you may need. For instance, unless the tip and throat pads are pretty new, it would be time for replacements. Check your throat and tip clamps and plugs and make sure all is in good shape. Those throat and tip clamps should last forever but sometimes the mechanism they fit into (the "Dog Kit") can wear out--but it's super cheap to replace (I have a spare just in case). If you have any concern about your tension head, JC at Tennis Machines can give it a tune up. Given what you saved, you have some house money to get it close to superior condition.

Ah, yours got posted just before mine. This is the link to the pads:

http://www.tennismachines.com/product/tip-and-throat-pad-set/

Re the tension adjustment, I'd either call JC and/or send him the tension head and have him tune it up.

The pack of 9 tip and throat retainer pads was brand new in package unopened. I think the PO bought some tools and the pads from tennismachines but never used them.

I looked through the manual and parts list and it looks like I should have all the parts. Is the tip and throat pad set designed to just go on the bottom side of the tip and throat clamps while the throat retainer pads are removable and swapped out depending on racquet throat design?

I mounted a racquet and it appeared to be solid with no movement once I locked it down so I assume everything is good.
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
The pack of 9 tip and throat retainer pads was brand new in package unopened. I think the PO bought some tools and the pads from tennismachines but never used them.

I looked through the manual and parts list and it looks like I should have all the parts. Is the tip and throat pad set designed to just go on the bottom side of the tip and throat clamps while the throat retainer pads are removable and swapped out depending on racquet throat design?

I mounted a racquet and it appeared to be solid with no movement once I locked it down so I assume everything is good.
Yes, you are correct on both--the retainers are for different shaped racquets--the pads are just to keep the racquet from being mounted directly on the metal where it could slip and mar the finish.
 

Rabbit

G.O.A.T.
there's a section in the manual that explains how to calibrate. I think a small allen wrench is used
 

Rabbit

G.O.A.T.
I have never used the black plastic support pieces. Don't the white ones support most frames?

No, not on the 1000. The black support pieces are for the throat. There are two posts down there that they fit over. These are designed for different shaped throats and for different sports.
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
Dumb question but what does the brake do? My whole unit (top and bottom tray) spins regardless of whether the bar is locked or not. Is the brake supposed to keep the upper unit from spinning?
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
Yes, it's primarily used for O-port rackets to lock the table.

Thanks, I had not seen anyone the brake it in youtube videos. All the hardware on my brake seem to be intact including the pads that sandwich the round metal disc but it does not appear to do anything as the whole unit free spins regardless if the lever is set to lock or not.

I rechecked the calibration after reading that you should look at the reading right when it locks out not after the the string stretches and settles and in that case my calibration is spot on.
 

struggle

Legend
The brake may need some adjustment (check your manual). When you say the bottom tray is spinning, you DON'T mean
the tool tray, correct? Yes the upper tray should turn as it's part of (the base) of the whole turntable
and mounting system.
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
The whole thing was spinning, the tool tray and the upper tray that holds the racquet because the silver metal lever (is this the brake) was locked. I thought the black rubberized lever that said "Lock/Unlock" was the brake but it turns out that's what locks the slider you use to mount the frame depending on frame length etc.

With some instruction from a very experienced stringer friend I was able to string two racquets, both with a two piece and a one piece setup. Pretty happy with the machine.
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
The brake is located directly under the table--it is activated by pulling what should be a silver lever (given the age of your machine it may be discolored). If you look in the Neos Manual on p. 11 (illustration 7) you can see it (that page also instructs how to adjust it) (the brake kit is illustrated on p. 29 and is pointed out on the the diagram of the machine on p. 35 (see Part #s 9, 18 and 103)--if the adjustment does not work you might need a new one from Tennis Machines (it's not much). If the tool tray is spinning you can likewise adjust that--there should be a set screw to secure it to the machine post (see p. 5, illustration 4 of the Neos Manual).
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
The brake is located directly under the table--it is activated by pulling what should be a silver lever (given the age of your machine it may be discolored). If you look in the Neos Manual on p. 11 (illustration 7) you can see it (that page also instructs how to adjust it) (the brake kit is illustrated on p. 29 and is pointed out on the the diagram of the machine on p. 35 (see Part #s 9, 18 and 103)--if the adjustment does not work you might need a new one from Tennis Machines (it's not much). If the tool tray is spinning you can likewise adjust that--there should be a set screw to secure it to the machine post (see p. 5, illustration 4 of the Neos Manual).

Thanks I figured out the silver lever was the brake. I thought it was the black one. I locked the tool tray with the set screw. Good to go, thank for all the help and advice guys!
 

struggle

Legend
By the way I got a copy of a 2013 USRSA stringing manual if anyone needs any info on any racquets shoot me a PM.

That's nice to have, but you gotta join to get the updates.

I generally do ok with the patterns on the klippermate site, but they're not always spot on.

It's still a good resource.
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
That's nice to have, but you gotta join to get the updates.

I generally do ok with the patterns on the klippermate site, but they're not always spot on.

It's still a good resource.

Yeah luckily I don't play with the newest frames that just came out so this was a good starting point for the stuff I already have. They even had the Angell TC 95, 100 and 105 specs in it surprisingly.
 

CosmosMpower

Hall of Fame
I noticed when I checked the tension head with the gamma calibrator right when I pull tension it's right on the number. If I want 5-10 seconds the tension drops about a pound or so below the set tension on the machine. The calibrator has some kind of generic syn gut tied to each end to pull on so I'm guessing the loss in tension a few seconds later is the string stretching.

Would it be accurate to say that the tension loss from the lock out style machine is only the pound or so it loses after the machine locks? Trying to figure out if I just need to set my tension 1 pound higher than on a constant pull electronic pro grade machine.
 
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