A few random questions!

sansaephanh · Dec 15, 2012

Can someone explain the S hook technique? Sounds like a masterful idea to cure my lack of prince boomerangs. I can't seem to find the youtube vid.

How the heck do you guys get the strings so straight? Multis, monos, synthetic guts all look wobbly and unprofessional when i'm finished. Even some polys.

Any tips on stringing dense string patterns? When i try to do a quality rush job, my hands sweat like crazy. I'm still relatively new to stringing so any tips would help. I keep thinking if I'm having trouble with this noodley stuff, how am i going to handle something stiff like BBO??

How much do you guys increase the tension before tie offs? I actually just recently learned of this and plan to do some light experiments so I can get my tension true to racquet tune. I heard that a increase of between 5-8lbs on the last two crosses/mains(on my dropweight) would compensate for the loose knots and string from tie offs. True or false?

What easy knots do you guys recommend for stringing? 15-17g strings i use all Wilson Pro Knots, but anything thinner I try to do a bulky knot, but it looks sloppy sometimes.

Irvin · Dec 15, 2012

The problem with ported racket is the string must stay near the bottom of the port when you string the racket from the top down. Because the turn table pivot point is below the port in the top half of the racket the string tends to stay in the top of the port. So Prince uses a boomerang to hold the string in the bottom of the port. The S hook holds the string down by hooking into the next lower port with the bottom hook and the string is ran through the top hook. This holds the string an equal distance from the lower port. Problem is that distance is not exactly the same every time so you string are going to be crooked.

The easiest way (for all stringers) to get the strings straight is to use the 2 piece 50/50. That way when you string from the center up the string stays in the top portion of the port because the pivot point of the turn table is below the port. The string will be straight. And when you string from the center because the pivot point is above the ports the string stays in the bottom of the port.

COPEY · Dec 15, 2012

I'm a big proponent of the s-hook method, however, if your machine has a good brake this method is pointless. If you know how to use the 50/50 method you can compare the two and figure out which one you prefer. Quite a few people use the 50/50 or a boomerang. I've tried the boomerang and it works fine, however, on occasion they pop out of place, which isn't a huge deal, but with the s-hook that's never an issue. The 50/50 method was fine as well, but I simply prefer the simplicity of the s-hook. There was something about starting in the middle of the racquet and being obligated to use a starting clamp that didn't quite sit well with me, didn't seem as seamless as using the s-hook. Anyway, your opinion may be different. Try it and see what you think - it's a cheap experiment.

I'll let others address your remaining questions as I'm short on time. Good luck!

COPEY · Dec 15, 2012

Irvin said:
The easiest way (for all stringers) to get the strings straight is to use the 2 piece 50/50.

Ok I do have enough time to address this statement. To be clear, using the 50/50 method allows the string to align properly with the ports, so in that sense they start off straight, but it doesn't mean your strings will be any straighter if you don't push against the string as you tension or straighten them after the job is complete; you'll still have some frowning.

sansaephanh · Dec 15, 2012

i meant straight strings on any racket. I have all sorts of frowning. My jobs just don't look as clean as from someone else

Lakers4Life · Dec 15, 2012

sansaephanh said:
i meant straight strings on any racket. I have all sorts of frowning. My jobs just don't look as clean as from someone else

That's what the setting off tool (Blunt Awl) is for.

sansaephanh · Dec 15, 2012

Hmm... must learn how to use...

mad dog1 · Dec 15, 2012

sansaephanh said:
i meant straight strings on any racket. I have all sorts of frowning. My jobs just don't look as clean as from someone else

Lakers4Life said:
That's what the setting off tool (Blunt Awl) is for.

what L4L says is true, but you can straighten the cross strings as you're stringing w/ your fingers. it's not hard and it's cheaper than buying a blunt awl.

if your cross strings aren't straight as you're tensioning, the tension in the crosses will be lower than if they are as straight as possible.

Lakers4Life · Dec 15, 2012

sansaephanh said:
Hmm... must learn how to use...

Watch a few videos on stringing at a Grand Slam even. I recall US Open and a French Open videos with the stringer using a blunt awl after stringing.

If you have a bench grinder and screw driver you don't really like, you can round off the tip.

True, you can try to straighten the crosses as you tension them, but if you do a lot of rackets, your finger tips will hurt after a while. Unless you have guitar player's callouses.

fortun8son · Dec 15, 2012

I use my fingers, but then again, I have bass players' callouses.

mad dog1 · Dec 16, 2012

Lakers4Life said:
Watch a few videos on stringing at a Grand Slam even. I recall US Open and a French Open videos with the stringer using a blunt awl after stringing.

If you have a bench grinder and screw driver you don't really like, you can round off the tip.

True, you can try to straighten the crosses as you tension them, but if you do a lot of rackets, your finger tips will hurt after a while. Unless you have guitar player's callouses.

i doubt if sansaephanh does as much volume as you. probably strings a couple of sticks per week so likely not enough to hurt the fingertips.

Lakers4Life · Dec 16, 2012

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zP1aZUO8C0s

All joking aside, at 5:27 of this video an example of using a blunt awl:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VC0Q-ZXJ9Y

coachrick · Dec 16, 2012

sansaephanh said:
i meant straight strings on any racket. I have all sorts of frowning. My jobs just don't look as clean as from someone else

Weaving one cross ahead of the one you're tensioning will eliminate much of the 'frowning'; but you will still need to fine-tune as you go and when finished.

I've strung 22 rackets non-stop with 'typical' synthetic and didn't need a blunt awl for any of them. On the other hand, all it takes is one small cut or split in your fingertips to create an entirely different type of 'frown'

. My blunt awl is around here somewhere in case I need it.

Actually, I use a pair of smooth curved-needle-nose pliers to straighten the difficult strings when needed.

Tennusdude · Dec 16, 2012

COPEY said:
I'm a big proponent of the s-hook method, however, if your machine has a good brake this method is pointless. If you know how to use the 50/50 method you can compare the two and figure out which one you prefer. Quite a few people use the 50/50 or a boomerang. I've tried the boomerang and it works fine, however, on occasion they pop out of place, which isn't a huge deal, but with the s-hook that's never an issue. The 50/50 method was fine as well, but I simply prefer the simplicity of the s-hook. There was something about starting in the middle of the racquet and being obligated to use a starting clamp that didn't quite sit well with me, didn't seem as seamless as using the s-hook. Anyway, your opinion may be different. Try it and see what you think - it's a cheap experiment.

I'll let others address your remaining questions as I'm short on time. Good luck!

I really dont agree that the boomerang works fine. Cross strings seem to lose a substantial amount of tension especially on the Prince EXO3 Silver, although there seem be tension loss on all Prince EXO3 when using boomerang due to the fact that cross string is not even close to being horizontal while being tensioned. Irvin what is your opinion on this?>

zapvor · Dec 16, 2012

Lakers4Life said:
Watch a few videos on stringing at a Grand Slam even. I recall US Open and a French Open videos with the stringer using a blunt awl after stringing.

If you have a bench grinder and screw driver you don't really like, you can round off the tip.

True, you can try to straighten the crosses as you tension them, but if you do a lot of rackets, your finger tips will hurt after a while. Unless you have guitar player's callouses.

i just use my fingers. for me its crucial to do this with prestiges because of the pattern.

Lakers4Life · Dec 19, 2012

coachrick said:
Weaving one cross ahead of the one you're tensioning will eliminate much of the 'frowning'; but you will still need to fine-tune as you go and when finished.

I disagree, all "one ahead" does is make it easier to weave the crosses, because the last tensioned cross will be the same weave. I don't think it prevents frowning, becuase the "one ahead" weave has no tension.

sansaephanh · Dec 24, 2012

so guys. What is the general rule of them for tension higher for the last crosses/mains? I lose a ton when i tie my knots and am just wondering what I can do to make sure I account for it.

Irvin · Dec 24, 2012

sansaephanh said:
so guys. What is the general rule of them for tension higher for the last crosses/mains? I lose a ton when i tie my knots and am just wondering what I can do to make sure I account for it.

There is no general rule. Best thing to do is learn to tie your knots better or use a better knot. Have you tried the VS Starting knot?

Chotobaka · Dec 24, 2012

You can always "cheat" by hand pulling tension with cam pliers and holding tension with a lubed awl. Or, over-tension your last pulls to compensate. Best is to just keep developing your tie off skills as mentioned by others here.

sansaephanh · Dec 25, 2012

Irvin said:
There is no general rule. Best thing to do is learn to tie your knots better or use a better knot. Have you tried the VS Starting knot?

No i haven't I usually just use wilson pro not until the gauge is too thick

volusiano · Dec 26, 2012

I've come across threads here before that suggested as much as 8 lbs increase on the last pull to compensate for the tension loss due to the knot. But that was a long time ago. It's really up to you to know how tight of a knot you can tie and decide how much to compensate for it.

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