tennis_pr0
Semi-Pro
When using a 6 point, lets say that I'm doing my crosses and and one of the side mounts is in the way. Do I just loosen it up and move it for that string, or is this a no no?
6 Point Mounting Machine
- Thread starter tennis_pr0
- Start date
You never loosen a mount until the job is completed.
This is what some people here need to know, that not all 6 points are the same. With my machine it is suspension mounting 6 point, (10 position), and it is impossible to block a grommet with it, no matter where you place the supports, I don't even look at where they are in relation to the grommets when mounting, as it does not matter. But with some other types of 6 point, I'm sure all you would need to do is plan ahead when mounting to be sure that they are placed appropriately so this would not happen.
You never release the suspension mounts early.
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tennisman917
Rookie
if it is ever in the way, some 6-pointers have a little gap in between and thts where u should feed the string through for pulling or to weave one ahead
I always check the location of the side mounts before starting to ensure there are no blockages when stringing the crosses. I have still had the rare occasion of dealing with a side mount that was blocking a cross hole however since they were one of the last couple of crosses, i.e. the racquet is over 95% strung I didn't think there was any problem moving the offending side mount to get the string through.
I've been told to never remove a mount during stringing. So I try to set my 6-point up ahead of time to not be blocking any holes. That usually prevents any problems. The first time I didn't realize that might be a problem, and it had a little trouble in a couple of spots. I learned fast on that one!
Steezmuffin
Rookie
It is also good to check the mount to make sure you can get a nice clamp on the last main real close to the frame. The six point mount can sometimes get in the way a little.
Steve Huff
G.O.A.T.
Jim, let me ask you a hypothetical question (well, it's actually happened). Say you're stringing the crosses, top to bottom as normal, when you start to pull the string through, you notice the grommet is split. As is sometimes the case, the split didn't show up, or didn't exist, until you pulled the string through it under tension. So, you think, I'll just tube it. But, the tubing won't fit in the grommet, so you reach for your awl to enlarge the hole. Ah, but the frame support is in the way. Even though you can string around it, you can't insert the awl. What do you do? Plus, you just put that half set of VS in the mains. Besides saying a few choice words, what's the next step?
Virtua Tennis
Semi-Pro
first thing you should do before mounting a racquet is check the grommets never assume the racquet is in good condition.
tennis_pr0
Semi-Pro
So what if a grommet or two is broken, does it matter?
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
I too have a 10 point suspension mounting system and think it is great. The side mounts can also be adjusted so you never block a hole and you can always go straight in from the outside of the grommet. I never worry about blocking a hole because like 'jim e' says you can still get hehind the mount and get the string in even it it is dead center on the grommet hole. I never have released the clamp while the racket is partially strung but I do not think it would be a disaster. I am not going to find out though.
If you feel the need for a awl and can get it in because of the clamp use a nail and go in from the other side. The nail does not have as long a point and you should be able to widen the grommet with it and a little heat from a hair dryer. You may have to find something to hold on to the nail with like some vice grips but where there is a need there is a way.
Irvin
If you feel the need for a awl and can get it in because of the clamp use a nail and go in from the other side. The nail does not have as long a point and you should be able to widen the grommet with it and a little heat from a hair dryer. You may have to find something to hold on to the nail with like some vice grips but where there is a need there is a way.
Irvin
Wow!! Probably say a few more choice words! I guess with the great # of racquets that you string just about every type of sennerio has come up. With your case Steve, you made a point in never say never!! I would try anything to save that one, and would open up the mount to get a tube in or replace the grommet.I was always told to never say never, and case in point! Well taken!
I have had a split show up after the mains were installed, as a split sometimes not that visable until some pressure is on it to open it up.But in my case, the main was opening up the split in the grommet, and was tied off before I noticed it, so I had no choice to cut it out and start over as that string was against the frame.That was k gut before the price reduction, so that was bad enough.
Steve, you made an excellent point!! Not much of a choice in your case.
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You should always check the racquet over for grommet breaks or cracks on first inspection before you cut the strings out,(preferably while your client is there), and also again once the strings are removed. But sometimes the split is not that visable once the strings are removed, and once the pressure of the string is on the grommet it opens up the split, and you see the problem.Like on my above post.
To your question if you see a grommet broken you have the following choices. Tube the area, replace the individule grommet, or if a # are bad, replace the grommet set, if the grommet set is still avail. (manuf. stop grommet production fast, so none are avail. so it forces new racquet sales).
It is ashame that there is no cross reference on grommets where different new sets will fit the older no longer avail ones.I had TW tell me that none were avail. and some good posters here told me what to use from current ones that fit. So there is cross reference compatability.I have even cut up grommet sets to re-grommet areas on a racquet, as that does work as well.
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I have 4 different kinds of tubing here in my shop. Nylon which I rarely use, and 3 diameters of teflon tubing. I prefer to use the widest diameter version of the teflon tubing but in a pinch I will use the thinner ones. Occasionally I have found it necessary to adjust the diameter of a piece of teflon tubing by stretching it. Sometimes just to have a lead end thin enough to get it started in a hole such as described here.
I also have a curved (bent?) awl. I think this is why they are included in the tool kit. No?
