Calibration

[rjkardo]

I bought a digital fish scale to check my stringer.
However, it shows the tension to be way off.
About 30 lbs off.

I have strung a bunch of racquets with this stringer, and it seems pretty accurate. Since I just got it, I wanted to test it and so got the scale.

I set it up like the picture here:
http://photostringer.com/images/gamma_progression_II_061114-007.jpg

Any thoughts?

Rjkardo

 

[rasajadad]

Unless either your machine or the fish scale is totally off, my guess is that you have it set to kilos instead of pounds (or vice-versa.)

 

[LttlElvis]

Also remember when calibrating, use the very first reading on a lock out crank. Don't use the finalized reading because different strings stretch at different rates.

Digital scales are nice because you can see the changes on the display.

 

[User Name]

i have the same problem

what kind of knots should i tie

 

[Gamma Tech]

I bought a digital fish scale to check my stringer.
However, it shows the tension to be way off.
About 30 lbs off.

I have strung a bunch of racquets with this stringer, and it seems pretty accurate. Since I just got it, I wanted to test it and so got the scale.
Rjkardo

i'm not saying that your wrong but for a machine to be of by 30lbs is a lot. you'd definitely be able to tell that on your rqts. usually that occurs when somebody has dropped the tensioner or started adjusting screws they should be.

if you need more help please let me know. make sure you are looking at lbs.
bret

 

[rjkardo]

i'm not saying that your wrong but for a machine to be of by 30lbs is a lot. you'd definitely be able to tell that on your rqts. usually that occurs when somebody has dropped the tensioner or started adjusting screws they should be.

if you need more help please let me know. make sure you are looking at lbs.
bret

By the feel of the racquets I strung, the tension seems pretty close.
But I tested the digital scale again, and it is accurate on other items.

The fish scale shows lbs or kg, so that is not the problem. I just tested it again. I set the tensioner on 12 lbs and it fish scale showed 40lbs.

I will try to take pictures to show the setup I use.

Thanks again,
Rod

 

[gjoc]

LOL, I always knew those fish scales read high!

Yeah, you should have seen the "40-pounder" I caught the other day!

 

[morten]

hm, there is something fishy here...

 

[Safina]

do you string at 12lbs? probably not.

try going up to 30lbs and test
then going up to 50lbs and test
and then going up to 60lbs and test.


with my REVO, i thought it was stringing loose so I bought my
digital fish scale and it was 9lbs off.

I calibrated, (over-adjusted, so it reads 64lbs but drops to 60lbs within 2 seconds which is the time it takes me to clamp).
Now my racquets are perfect!!!

oh, in case people are wondering like I was... I thought calibrating would take hours, but it takes about 5 minutes. So I am glad I read about the fish scales on here!

no if i will just always remember to turn the dial back to 9lbs after I am done stringing instead of leaving it at 60!!!! grrrrrr, my poor spring!

 

[mclee025]

no if i will just always remember to turn the dial back to 9lbs after I am done stringing instead of leaving it at 60!!!! grrrrrr, my poor spring!

If you look at the thread below, it seems that on Gamma stringing machines, it's actually a bad thing to do to dial back the tension between string jobs (down to 9) on the crank tensioners. I can't say that this actually applies to the Alpha Revo, but from my limited knowlege of the Revo's, it seems it shares what appears to be common components with similar Gamma models, so I wouldn't be surprised if the same exact rule applies.

Perhaps some more knowledgeable Revo users might have the answer or better yet the folks at Alpha. Of course you have to take anything you read with a grain of salt since someone that presents themselves as knowledgable might be totally off base.

Here's the link mentioned:

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=142656

 

[Safina]

Revo instructions say to dial it back down after stringing.

Gamma says their springs are made to hold up under compression, while I guess Alpha's does better if it "relaxes"
when not in use.

 

[mclee025]

Revo instructions say to dial it back down after stringing.

Gamma says their springs are made to hold up under compression, while I guess Alpha's does better if it "relaxes"
when not in use.

Thanks for the clarification Safina.

 

[rjkardo]

do you string at 12lbs? probably not.

try going up to 30lbs and test
then going up to 50lbs and test
and then going up to 60lbs and test.


with my REVO, i thought it was stringing loose so I bought my
digital fish scale and it was 9lbs off.

I calibrated, (over-adjusted, so it reads 64lbs but drops to 60lbs within 2 seconds which is the time it takes me to clamp).
Now my racquets are perfect!!!

oh, in case people are wondering like I was... I thought calibrating would take hours, but it takes about 5 minutes. So I am glad I read about the fish scales on here!

no if i will just always remember to turn the dial back to 9lbs after I am done stringing instead of leaving it at 60!!!! grrrrrr, my poor spring!

I have checked it at a number of different tensions, from about 10 lbs to 50 lbs. All of them show the tension way off, 25 to 30 lbs (or up to the limit of the scale.) However, from the racquets I string, the tension seems about right.

rjkardo

 

[rjkardo]

Calibration Pictures

Hello, I am still having problems getting the scale to work correctly. Having strung a bunch of racquets, it seems that the tension on my stringer is accurate. However, when I put the digital scale on it the results are way off.

Is it the way I am setting it up? The scale seems accurate, as I have tested it on various items around the house and it seems ok. But on the stringer it shows almost 30 lbs off and that just does not seem right.

I put up some pictures on my webshots page. Please let me know if I am doing something wrong.

Thanks,
Rod

 

[gjoc]

Hello, I am still having problems getting the scale to work correctly. Having strung a bunch of racquets, it seems that the tension on my stringer is accurate. However, when I put the digital scale on it the results are way off.

Is it the way I am setting it up? The scale seems accurate, as I have tested it on various items around the house and it seems ok. But on the stringer it shows almost 30 lbs off and that just does not seem right.

I put up some pictures on my webshots page. Please let me know if I am doing something wrong.

Thanks,
Rod

I think that the high reading that you’re seeing is the peak instantaneous weight/tension that occurs as the slack is being taken up and tension pulled.

The faster the tension head draws, the higher that number will be. This is why often strings break as they’re being drawn/pulled by the tension head, and slowing that speed down can help reduce/minimize breakages.

The fish scale in the picture is a Berkley FS50, and the ability to display the peak instantaneous value is a designed-in feature of that scale (they refer to it as the “peak hold function”).

The FS50 can also show the final, stabilized weight/tension, which is what you want to see in your case, but you’ll have to consult the documentation/manual in order to see/learn how to display that other number instead of the one you’re getting now.

 

[rjkardo]

I think that the high reading that you’re seeing is the peak instantaneous weight/tension that occurs as the slack is being taken up and tension pulled.

The faster the tension head draws, the higher that number will be. This is why often strings break as they’re being drawn/pulled by the tension head, and slowing that speed down can help reduce/minimize breakages.

The fish scale in the picture is a Berkley FS50, and the ability to display the peak instantaneous value is a designed-in feature of that scale (they refer to it as the “peak hold function”).

The FS50 can also show the final, stabilized weight/tension, which is what you want to see in your case, but you’ll have to consult the documentation/manual in order to see/learn how to display that other number instead of the one you’re getting now.

It is a FS50. Unfortunately I did not get documentation with the scale, so I don't know if the 'peak hold' function is affecting it. However, I have tried pulling tension very slowly and I get the same results. Also, once tension locks out it decreases a few lbs on the scale, so it is not holding the tension.

Does anyone have a manual for the FS50 scale?

Rod

 

[gjoc]

It is a FS50. Unfortunately I did not get documentation with the scale, so I don't know if the 'peak hold' function is affecting it. However, I have tried pulling tension very slowly and I get the same results. Also, once tension locks out it decreases a few lbs on the scale, so it is not holding the tension.

Does anyone have a manual for the FS50 scale?

Rod

There’s still a jarring/snap when the tension head locks out though, even if you crank it slower, which causes an instantaneous impulse/spike in the tension.

In any event, it can definitely measure and display the instantaneous/peak value, so if you don’t know how to select which value (final or peak) to display, you can’t know which value you’re looking at.

That scale also has a tare mode, so maybe that’s set to non-zero, and it has a way to reset zero, so maybe what it thinks is zero isn’t?

Since you didn’t get documentation with it, I’m wondering if you got it used, and if someone got rid of it used, maybe it was because it was broken and didn’t read right? Maybe it got dropped/broken somewhere along the way?

It might just need to be recalibrated internally if it’s out of whack, but that’s probably not something you can do yourself--you might have to return it to the manufacturer for that.

Lastly, could the batteries just be weak and need to be replaced? Not sure if that would cause it to read high though, but it seems a possibility.

 

[rjkardo]

There’s still a jarring/snap when the tension head locks out though, even if you crank it slower, which causes an instantaneous impulse/spike in the tension.

In any event, it can definitely measure and display the instantaneous/peak value, so if you don’t know how to select which value (final or peak) to display, you can’t know which value you’re looking at.

That scale also has a tare mode, so maybe that’s set to non-zero, and it has a way to reset zero, so maybe what it thinks is zero isn’t?

Since you didn’t get documentation with it, I’m wondering if you got it used, and if someone got rid of it used, maybe it was because it was broken and didn’t read right? Maybe it got dropped/broken somewhere along the way?

It might just need to be recalibrated internally if it’s out of whack, but that’s probably not something you can do yourself--you might have to return it to the manufacturer for that.

Lastly, could the batteries just be weak and need to be replaced? Not sure if that would cause it to read high though, but it seems a possibility.

I have tested it as best I can with weights and other objects I put on a digital scale here at the house. It weighs the other stuff accurately. If I set the tension on the stringer at 30 lbs and pull, I can watch the digital readout on the scale slowly increase till over 50 lbs. It is not the lock-out that is causing the problem.

I got the scale from the large auction site. It did not come with documentation, but it works for everything I have tested it with other than the stringer. The battery is brand new, I installed it myself.

I don't know what the problem is, but I have strung on the stringer and it is in no way off by 30 lbs. I just cannot figure out what is going wrong with the scale.

It is definitely set on lbs and not KB. Everything else I weigh is pretty accurate.

Rod

 

[gjoc]

I have tested it as best I can with weights and other objects I put on a digital scale here at the house. It weighs the other stuff accurately. If I set the tension on the stringer at 30 lbs and pull, I can watch the digital readout on the scale slowly increase till over 50 lbs. It is not the lock-out that is causing the problem.

I got the scale from the large auction site. It did not come with documentation, but it works for everything I have tested it with other than the stringer. The battery is brand new, I installed it myself.

I don't know what the problem is, but I have strung on the stringer and it is in no way off by 30 lbs. I just cannot figure out what is going wrong with the scale.

It is definitely set on lbs and not KB. Everything else I weigh is pretty accurate.

Rod

Maybe it’s displaying the “average weight” or the “total catch weight” (both of which it also does)? Or maybe something with one of its ten memories?

You just need to find a copy of the documentation/manual.

If you don’t just find it on the web, or call the company and get it from them, maybe a “fishing” forum would have info?

If it’s that complicated, that it does that many different things and only has two buttons, surely there are going to be lots of confused folks out there with questions about how to use it!

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FS50 Digital Fish Scales weigh in pounds/ounces or kilograms. With an easy to see LCD readout anglers can quickly know the weight of the catch. The peak hold function gives an accurate instantaneous reading, beneficial for weighing fish that refuse to hold still for very long. The built in memory can record the weights of ten different fish, provide an average weight and total catch weight. The tare function allows for weighing in a bucket.

The water resistant handle shape is easy to securely grip and the stainless steel hook resists rusts. Up to 500 hours of operation are provided by the CR2032 battery that is included with the FS50. The automatic shut off helps extend battery life.

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For more information about Berkley or the location of the nearest Berkley retailer, call Berkley Angler Services or visit the web site.

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[rjkardo]

Maybe it’s displaying the “average weight” or the “total catch weight” (both of which it also does)? Or maybe something with one of its ten memories?

You just need to find a copy of the documentation/manual.

If you don’t just find it on the web, or call the company and get it from them, maybe a “fishing” forum would have info?

If it’s that complicated, that it does that many different things and only has two buttons, surely there are going to be lots of confused folks out there with questions about how to use it!

Yeah, I agree. I have been looking for a copy of the manual on the web and cannot find it. The website is short of answers.

Thanks for your comments, I do appreciate it.
I think the stringer is accurate, I just want to figure out how to be sure.

Rod

 

[rjkardo]

Yeah, I agree. I have been looking for a copy of the manual on the web and cannot find it. The website is short of answers.

Thanks for your comments, I do appreciate it.
I think the stringer is accurate, I just want to figure out how to be sure.

Rod

OK, I just ran to Wal-Mart and bought a new Berkley FS50 digital fish scale and got the directions. After reading them carefully I reset the scale and tested it again. It still shows the stringer being way off. So I tried the new scale and got the same reading.

I am beginning to believe that the tension is really off on my stringer.

Rod

 

[Thiseas]

I think that the problem is the angle at which you are pulling the string. Try this: mount an unstrung frame on your machine, fix your scale like you would the first main .This way the scale is inside the frame and the end of the string that you are pulling comes out of a grommet.

 

[rjkardo]

I think that the problem is the angle at which you are pulling the string. Try this: mount an unstrung frame on your machine, fix your scale like you would the first main .This way the scale is inside the frame and the end of the string that you are pulling comes out of a grommet.

Ok, I will try that right now.
It is 0210 here, but I cannot sleep.
Give me 5 minutes...

Rod

 

[rjkardo]

Ok, I will try that right now.
It is 0210 here, but I cannot sleep.
Give me 5 minutes...

Rod

Just set it up inside a frame and pulled tension. It was about 20 lbs off.

I am very confused. I cannot see that the tension is off that much, but I have two scales now and they both seem to work on everything I test them with. Everything but the stringer.

Rod

 

[gjoc]

Just set it up inside a frame and pulled tension. It was about 20 lbs off.

I am very confused. I cannot see that the tension is off that much, but I have two scales now and they both seem to work on everything I test them with. Everything but the stringer.

Rod

And there’s no chance you’re setting the tensioner on your machine to KGs instead of lbs, right? That was the one photo that was way blurry.

It’s hard to imagine the racquets could be that much tighter and you wouldn’t notice, but before you go recalibrating your machine, maybe you should try one more thing...

Try setting the machine to whatever setting gives you the tension you want on your racquet, per the scale, and see how that racquet comes out, “about right” or “kind of soft/loose”.

(I’m assuming you don’t have any way of quantifying the stringbed stiffness?)

 

[rjkardo]

And there’s no chance you’re setting the tensioner on your machine to KGs instead of lbs, right? That was the one photo that was way blurry.

It’s hard to imagine the racquets could be that much tighter and you wouldn’t notice, but before you go recalibrating your machine, maybe you should try one more thing...

Try setting the machine to whatever setting gives you the tension you want on your racquet, per the scale, and see how that racquet comes out, “about right” or “kind of soft/loose”.

(I’m assuming you don’t have any way of quantifying the stringbed stiffness?)

There is no way. The KG and LBS are very clearly marked.
But that is a good idea, before I mess with the tension that much I will string a racquet at what the scale tells me is 55lbs. That will give me an idea.

I just slept for almost 3 hours. That is the longest stretch of sleep I have gotten since I hurt my back.


Rod

 

[volusiano]

I'm thinking maybe your stringer is actually miscalibrated and you're just used to the high tension level it's been stringing at, so you think it's all good, just because at least it's been consistent (consistenly high, although not accurate).

I read something a while ago from this link (http://marc.roettig.org/tennis/freqmess.php) in the first 2 FAQ questions posted there, that you can typically expect about 22 lbs or up to 35% loss of tension after the initial stringing.

So while your stringer has been stringing at higher tension than expected, perhaps a combination of things might have led to significant tension loss after the initial stringing that you ended up with rackets at the final lower tension that you've been happy with.

 

[rjkardo]

I'm thinking maybe your stringer is actually miscalibrated and you're just used to the high tension level it's been stringing at, so you think it's all good, just because at least it's been consistent (consistenly high, although not accurate).

I read something a while ago from this link (http://marc.roettig.org/tennis/freqmess.php) in the first 2 FAQ questions posted there, that you can typically expect about 22 lbs or up to 35% loss of tension after the initial stringing.

So while your stringer has been stringing at higher tension than expected, perhaps a combination of things might have led to significant tension loss after the initial stringing that you ended up with rackets at the final lower tension that you've been happy with.

This makes a lot of sense. So let me fill in what I have done since you posted.

I put the Berkley scale on the stringer and checked the tension. Then I adjusted the tension on the stringer till it was down in the range I wanted.

To string my wife's backup W2 I planned to string it at about 55 lbs, so I ended up setting the stringer to 24 lbs and the Berkley told me that was pulling 55 lbs. So then I mounted the racquet and strung it.

Seems ok. I 'pinged' it next to her main racquet and they are comparable. Of course, it has been a while since her main racquet was strung but it was strung on a Star 3 with 'constant pull' unlike my crank 5003.

Still I am encouraged. I am going to calibrate the 5003 down to meet what the Berkley says and work from there.

Just FYI: I bought the stringer off **** and the guy said he had not used it in a few years. It was also bounced around by UPS. That story is here:
http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=139924

I have to wonder if the years of non-use and the shipping may have contributed to the tension being so far off.

Another FYI: GammaTech sent me info on calibration and has been very helpful with this problem. In no way do I intend to imply any issue with either Gamma's manufacturing or tech support. This stringer was bought off auction and so these are the risks you take. But even with that, Gamma has been very helpful.

Rod

 

[iplaybetter]

hang a barbell from the scale to see if it is right

 

[gjoc]

Hey, that’s good news, Rod--maybe the story is still on track for a happy ending!

Besides not being used for a few years by its previous owner, the machine might also very well have had its calibration screwed up somewhere along the line--kids playing with the knobs, someone trying to adjust it but not knowing what they were doing, etc.

 

[volusiano]

hang a barbell from the scale to see if it is right

I think the OP said he did this and the scale showed the correct weight.

Boy, it is scary, though, isn't it, to realize that you've been stringing at 75-85 lbs tension? It must be at the upper end of the racket's allowable tension limit if not over it. Good thing the rackets held up OK. I go as high as 68-70 lbs on the last string before I tie off (8 lbs higher than normal to compensate for the tie-off tension loss), and I already scringe at the stretching sound the racket makes.

Perhaps the guy that strung your wife's racket on the Star 3 has an ERT300 or ERT700 or something similar that you can ask them to take some stringbed stiffness DT measurement for you. Sometimes they may do that for free in the hope that they will get you to restring with them if the DT shows that it's time to restring. The ERT300 only takes a few seconds to attach and get a reading.

 

[rjkardo]

I think the OP said he did this and the scale showed the correct weight.

Boy, it is scary, though, isn't it, to realize that you've been stringing at 75-85 lbs tension? It must be at the upper end of the racket's allowable tension limit if not over it. Good thing the rackets held up OK. I go as high as 68-70 lbs on the last string before I tie off (8 lbs higher than normal to compensate for the tie-off tension loss), and I already scringe at the stretching sound the racket makes.

Perhaps the guy that strung your wife's racket on the Star 3 has an ERT300 or ERT700 or something similar that you can ask them to take some stringbed stiffness DT measurement for you. Sometimes they may do that for free in the hope that they will get you to restring with them if the DT shows that it's time to restring. The ERT300 only takes a few seconds to attach and get a reading.

Yeah, I am cutting the strings out of my Babolet tonight.
The guy who strung my wife's other racquet works for a pro shop here in Houston and is also captain of my league team. I am pretty sure I can get him to compare the racquets.

Rod

 

[Gaines Hillix]

Does the captain of your league team have a tension calibrator? You might ask him to borrow it to confirm yours. You also might ask him to put yours on his machine to see if it is correct. My guess is your machine needs a new spring. Gamma may be able to ship you one and walk you through installing it or ship it to them for installation and calibration.

 

[rjkardo]

Does the captain of your league team have a tension calibrator? You might ask him to borrow it to confirm yours. You also might ask him to put yours on his machine to see if it is correct. My guess is your machine needs a new spring. Gamma may be able to ship you one and walk you through installing it or ship it to them for installation and calibration.

Gaines, he does have one and I will try to borrow it tomorrow to compare with my Berkley scale.

I am not sure I understand the part about replacing the spring. I mean, I can order one and I am sure GammaTech can walk me through replacing it but I am not sure why that would be necessary. Could you please explain? I may be missing something important here.

Rod

 

[rjkardo]

Good News!

Ok, I figure everyone is pretty tired of my travails. However, I think I have finally reached a stopping point.

Using the directions that GammaTech sent me, I was able to adjust the calibration on my 5003 to match up fairly close to the readings on the scale. It still is a bit off, but less than a pound and I am comfortable with that.
Maybe as time goes on I will be able to fine tune it more, but for now I am pretty happy. As I am stringing just for my wife and myself, I can get consistent string jobs and that is what I am after. The only issue that I can see is that, when I set the stringer at 54 lbs I get a reading of anywhere from 54.0 to 55.0. That is fine, but when I set it at 32 lbs the reading is off by up to 3 lbs or so. Of course, I don't string at 32 lbs but if anyone has advice I am always glad to hear it.

If anyone is interested, I can take photo's of the steps I used to calibrate the 5003. The directions are correct, but it took a bit of figuring out to get it to work. Pictures may be useful for the next person who tries to do this, so let me know what you think.

Thanks for all the advice and comments on this issue, and I will post updates if anything more happens.

Rod

 

[Gaines Hillix]

Ok, I figure everyone is pretty tired of my travails. However, I think I have finally reached a stopping point.

Using the directions that GammaTech sent me, I was able to adjust the calibration on my 5003 to match up fairly close to the readings on the scale. It still is a bit off, but less than a pound and I am comfortable with that.
Maybe as time goes on I will be able to fine tune it more, but for now I am pretty happy. As I am stringing just for my wife and myself, I can get consistent string jobs and that is what I am after. The only issue that I can see is that, when I set the stringer at 54 lbs I get a reading of anywhere from 54.0 to 55.0. That is fine, but when I set it at 32 lbs the reading is off by up to 3 lbs or so. Of course, I don't string at 32 lbs but if anyone has advice I am always glad to hear it.

If anyone is interested, I can take photo's of the steps I used to calibrate the 5003. The directions are correct, but it took a bit of figuring out to get it to work. Pictures may be useful for the next person who tries to do this, so let me know what you think.

Thanks for all the advice and comments on this issue, and I will post updates if anything more happens.

Rod

That's good news. I suggested that your tension head might need a new spring because I thought you'd already tried to set the calibration on the tension head and couldn't get it close. BTW, on it being off at lower tensions, this is a common effect on sprint tension machines. It's not unusual to have to recalibrate the tension head from switching from stringing tennis racquets to badminton, for instance. It's seems that the springs aren't linear in their behavior.

 

[Gamma Tech]

hi rod,
glad you are getting your tensioner in line. hopefully these few tips will get it where you are really happy with it.

1. you can get the tension to be accurate at all tension by getting the high and low lbs. adjusted. you need to adjust the tension curve. If I was working on your tensioner I'd move the nuts at the right end of the tension spring, connected to the arm, down about 1/8". I would make the offset of the tension be the same at high and low lbs. so I would make your tensioner pull 57 lbs and then check it at 30lbs again. if it is still pulling ~33lbs, then I would adjust the offset to by 3lbs and you'll be right on at all tensions (instruction in the manual). this adjustment affects the higher tensions a lot more than the lower that is why i'd recommend to make the higher tension to the lower than the lower to the higher. this info should be in the instructions I sent you too.
2. i don't like to disagree with gaines but i have to this time, our springs are engineered to never need replacing, so you just need to adjust the calibration.
3. check the latch hook that holds the brake lever in, when the brake lever contacts the black hook it wears, if there is a 'u' worn in the hook, it can cause the tension to vary a little bit. you can buy a replacement latch hook block, the hooks are made of a harder steel now.

hope this helps and isn't too confusing.
bret

 

[Gaines Hillix]

hi rod,
glad you are getting your tensioner in line. hopefully these few tips will get it where you are really happy with it.

1. you can get the tension to be accurate at all tension by getting the high and low lbs. adjusted. you need to adjust the tension curve. If I was working on your tensioner I'd move the nuts at the right end of the tension spring, connected to the arm, down about 1/8". I would make the offset of the tension be the same at high and low lbs. so I would make your tensioner pull 57 lbs and then check it at 30lbs again. if it is still pulling ~33lbs, then I would adjust the offset to by 3lbs and you'll be right on at all tensions (instruction in the manual). this adjustment affects the higher tensions a lot more than the lower that is why i'd recommend to make the higher tension to the lower than the lower to the higher. this info should be in the instructions I sent you too.
2. i don't like to disagree with gaines but i have to this time, our springs are engineered to never need replacing, so you just need to adjust the calibration.
3. check the latch hook that holds the brake lever in, when the brake lever contacts the black hook it wears, if there is a 'u' worn in the hook, it can cause the tension to vary a little bit. you can buy a replacement latch hook block, the hooks are made of a harder steel now.

hope this helps and isn't too confusing.
bret

Bret, I thought he'd already tried all of the tension adjustments and still couldn't get it close. That's why I suggested he might need a new spring. Sorry for any confusion. Glad to hear Gamma's machines are made with springs that are meant to never need changing and that the high-low tension curve is adjustable. I'll file that away for future reference .

 

[Gamma Tech]

Bret, I thought he'd already tried all of the tension adjustments and still couldn't get it close. That's why I suggested he might need a new spring. Sorry for any confusion. Glad to hear Gamma's machines are made with springs that are meant to never need changing and that the high-low tension curve is adjustable. I'll file that away for future reference .

no problem, there are at least 4 adjustments for the tension curves and 2 for the offset. if you want the other directions I have send me an email.
bret

 

[rjkardo]

hi rod,
glad you are getting your tensioner in line. hopefully these few tips will get it where you are really happy with it.

1. you can get the tension to be accurate at all tension by getting the high and low lbs. adjusted. you need to adjust the tension curve. If I was working on your tensioner I'd move the nuts at the right end of the tension spring, connected to the arm, down about 1/8". I would make the offset of the tension be the same at high and low lbs. so I would make your tensioner pull 57 lbs and then check it at 30lbs again. if it is still pulling ~33lbs, then I would adjust the offset to by 3lbs and you'll be right on at all tensions (instruction in the manual). this adjustment affects the higher tensions a lot more than the lower that is why i'd recommend to make the higher tension to the lower than the lower to the higher. this info should be in the instructions I sent you too.
2. i don't like to disagree with gaines but i have to this time, our springs are engineered to never need replacing, so you just need to adjust the calibration.
3. check the latch hook that holds the brake lever in, when the brake lever contacts the black hook it wears, if there is a 'u' worn in the hook, it can cause the tension to vary a little bit. you can buy a replacement latch hook block, the hooks are made of a harder steel now.

hope this helps and isn't too confusing.
bret

Hello Bret, I really don't understand.
Are there any pictures that show how this is supposed to work?
Sorry, hate to be such a bother.

Rod