Hole to use for start on cross tied on cross.

[slipgrip93]

I'm very new to self-stringing having started last fall on a klippermate. Having learned from their instructions, I usually start the cross tie on a main such as 5T. Now suppose I just want to start-tie the cross string to the cross itself for the goal of later being able to easily cut out just the cross or the main to replace stringing with a new cross or main later. Does it matter if I tie start at like the second cross row at 9T, or should I go farther for the 11T similar to the bottom tie-end at the 3rd row of cross from the bottom at 11B? Also, should I actually start the cross tied to the 5T on the main for the start tension, leaving enough string to untie the 5T with the awl to then tie the start-tie to the 9T or 11T after the first pull, or will starting the first pull from the cross tied to cross be ok? The example racquet I'm referring to is a 16 x 19 wilson frame. Thanks.

 

[esgee48]

Run on paragraph will get you a D in English 1A. What you want to do is tie your mains off normally. Since you want to tie cross to cross, you really want to start your crosses like you would do your mains. Go towards the top. When you finish tensioning cross 1, tie off on the 2nd cross. Then finish doing the remaining crosses. And tie that cross to the next to last cross. Before doing this, make sure that 2 strings will fit in the tie off holes. If needed, enlarge them so 2 strings will go thru. Do not play around with a preliminary starting knot for the 1st cross. If you had a starting clamp or fixed clamps, the technique is still the same.

 

[TagUrIt]

All of your questions can be answered by following the manufacturer's recommended stringing patterns. It literally gives you instructions on where to tie off and start. Generally speaking, it's better to follow the recommended stringing pattern to get the best performance out of the racquet. When you start deviating and modifying on stringing, you can potentially damage the racquet.

 

[struggle]

Use a starting clamp at first cross, once you have a few crosses tensioned (at least) go back up, re-tension the first
cross.....clamp it off with the machine clamp (or floating if that's your jam) then tie off where you wish.
The shorter the distance to the tieoff (cross), the better. You will likely need to enlarge a grommet to accommodate
two strings as crosses aren't run through large grommets (normally anyhow).

 

[Steve Huff]

Most likely, you'll have to enlarge the hole with an awl. Of course, you probably know that replacing just the crosses (or especially just the mains) is not recommended at all. Replacing just the mains will probably get you a cracked frame. Some Wilsons have large enough holes that getting 2 strings through them shouldn't be a big problem.

 

[Irvin]

I'm very new to self-stringing having started last fall on a klippermate. Having learned from their instructions, I usually start the cross tie on a main such as 5T. Now suppose I just want to start-tie the cross string to the cross itself for the goal of later being able to easily cut out just the cross or the main to replace stringing with a new cross or main later. Does it matter if I tie start at like the second cross row at 9T, or should I go farther for the 11T similar to the bottom tie-end at the 3rd row of cross from the bottom at 11B? Also, should I actually start the cross tied to the 5T on the main for the start tension, leaving enough string to untie the 5T with the awl to then tie the start-tie to the 9T or 11T after the first pull, or will starting the first pull from the cross tied to cross be ok? The example racquet I'm referring to is a 16 x 19 wilson frame. Thanks.

It will depend on the racket you’re stringing. There is no good answer or reason for what you’re suggesting doing.

 

[Ronaldo]

So old I thought he was trying to patch a broken string. That never seemed to work out well with the loss of tension.

 

[slipgrip93]

Thanks for the suggestions and replies all. I'll think about trying some ideas (on a cheap test racquet first, maybe). Mainly I just want to tie off the crosses only to themselves and not one tie-off on a main. In order to more easily replace and restring only the mains or crosses.

Of course, you probably know that replacing just the crosses (or especially just the mains) iRs not recommended at all. Replacing just the mains will probably get you a cracked frame.

I didn't know this yet, thanks. Something for me to seriously think about the risk.

 

[Knife]

Most likely, you'll have to enlarge the hole with an awl. Of course, you probably know that replacing just the crosses (or especially just the mains) is not recommended at all. Replacing just the mains will probably get you a cracked frame. Some Wilsons have large enough holes that getting 2 strings through them shouldn't be a big problem.

Thanks for the suggestions and replies all. I'll think about trying some ideas (on a cheap test racquet first, maybe). Mainly I just want to tie off the crosses only to themselves and not one tie-off on a main. In order to more easily replace and restring only the mains or crosses.



I didn't know this yet, thanks. Something for me to seriously think about the risk.

Like Steve said you can restring the crosses, avoid restringing just the mains. I have done this many times when i use nat gut in the mains and some cheaper string for crosses, no problems. I tie crosses to crosses on my Q-tours flawlessly without having to enlarge any holes. This would certainly be harder on some other racquets for sure. I have a couple of Donnays P1, and they are actually designed for being stringed 2-piece with tie-offs of crosses on crosses (and still mains on mains naturally) Good luck with your stringing!

 

[Ronaldo]

Never had to enlarge the holes on my Prince racquets