How to gwt DW parallel

[InsideInForehand]

I recently got my X-2 and I have been struggling to get the dropweight bar parallel as it is way too low, but when I adjust it using the blue thing and the bar, the bar goes way too high. Anyone got any tips?

 

[Irvin]

You must start with the bar below parallel. As you raise the bar go 1 click above level at a time until you learn how many clicks you must have to allow the bar to level.

 

[InsideInForehand]

You must start with the bar below parallel. As you raise the bar go 1 click above level at a time until you learn how many clicks you must have to allow the bar to level.

Thanks Irving. Your video's have been really helpful learning how to string

 

[InsideInForehand]

You must start with the bar below parallel. As you raise the bar go 1 click above level at a time until you learn how many clicks you must have to allow the bar to level.

One more question Irving and I hope I am not bothering you. I was stringing today and I was at the last string on my mains. The DW bar kept being around 30⁰ above parallel. Do you know what could have caused this?

 

[Irvin]

One more question Irving and I hope I am not bothering you. I was stringing today and I was at the last string on my mains. The DW bar kept being around 30⁰ above parallel. Do you know what could have caused this?

You raised the bar too high. Tension is applied as the bar drops. As the bar drops it stretches the string. But for a given tension the bar will only stretch so far. the string reached its limit while the bar was up to high.

as you get to the last few string the string get shorter and shorter and the string has less stretch. You can’t lift the bar as high as you did for the first few mains which are longer and have more stretch.

 

[InsideInForehand]

Thanks. What would be the best way to prevent this from happening?

You raised the bar too high. Tension is applied as the bar drops. As the bar drops it stretches the string. But for a given tension the bar will only stretch so far. the string reached its limit while the bar was up to high.

as you get to the last few string the string get shorter and shorter and the string has less stretch. You can’t lift the bar as high as you did for the first few mains which are longer and have more stretch.

 

[Irvin]

Thanks. What would be the best way to prevent this from happening?

What’s this

 

[InsideInForehand]

What’s this

The bar getting so high and not really being able to get it parallel

 

[Irvin]

The bar getting so high and not really being able to get it parallel

Don’t raise the bar too high. You can hear the ratchet click as it’s being raised. Only allow 1 or 2 clicks at a time until you get used to using the DW and know more about how many it takes. If you string one string and know how many click it too you can feel pretty sure the next string will be about the same.

 

[Trinity110]

Are you starting with the bar up or down? I don't take it for granted that you are starting with the bar down, but starting with the bar down, especially with stiff strings, helps you sneak up on parallel

 

[InsideInForehand]

Are you starting with the bar up or down? I don't take it for granted that you are starting with the bar down, but starting with the bar down, especially with stiff strings, helps you sneak up on parallel

I start with the bar as high as possible and then I let it drop. Is normally works, but this time when I dropped the bar from all the way up on my last string yesterday it was about 30⁰ above parallel. Spent about 30 mins trying to get it parallel by slowly letting it drop

 

[Irvin]

I start with the bar as high as possible and then I let it drop. Is normally works, but this time when I dropped the bar from all the way up on my last string yesterday it was about 30⁰ above parallel. Spent about 30 mins trying to get it parallel by slowly letting it drop

Lift the end of the stringer base up 30 degrees So the bar levels and move your clamp.

 

[InsideInForehand]

Lift the end of the stringer base up 30 degrees So the bar levels and move your clamp.

Cheers. Is there a reason why my last cross always has a lower tension and is easier to move or am I doing something wrong?

 

[Irvin]

Cheers. Is there a reason why my last cross always has a lower tension and is easier to move or am I doing something wrong?

Shortest string, lower tension because of angle bend at grommet, and drawback From tying off.

 

[InsideInForehand]

Shortest string, lower tension because of angle bend at grommet, and drawback From tying off.

So totally normal?

 

[USMC-615]

So totally normal?

Normal for the last string because of the drawback and tie off. Adjust the weight a few lbs/kg’s higher on your last pull prior to clamping off to help compensate for the tension loss if you want.

 

[Irvin]

So totally normal?

Well you could say that it is normal but that why many stringers will increase tension on the tie off string. Look to eliminate clamp drawback when you remove the tensioner. Practice tying knots, the tag end of the string should always go through the loop of the first half hitch. If you’re using a double half hitch the tag end does not go through the loop created by the first half hitch. With hold a half hitch for a base the knot will go into the grommet. You need something to hold the string knot from sinking into the grommet. You’re not tying a DHH are you?

 

[InsideInForehand]

Well you could say that it is normal but that why many stringers will increase tension on the tie off string. Look to eliminate clamp drawback when you remove the tensioner. Practice tying knots, the tag end of the string should always go through the loop of the first half hitch. If you’re using a double half hitch the tag end does not go through the loop created by the first half hitch. With hold a half hitch for a base the knot will go into the grommet. You need something to hold the string knot from sinking into the grommet. You’re not tying a DHH are you?

What is DHH?

 

[loosegroove]

The last cross is also easier to move because it’s not between two other crosses with alternate weaves. DHH is double half hitch.

 

[Irvin]

What is DHH?

Double Half Hitch.

 

[kabrac]

The X-2/Progression II are really great tools. Love mine.

 

[kabrac]

Also make sure you have the gripper clicked and angled in the proper position when you tension

 

[InsideInForehand]

Well you could say that it is normal but that why many stringers will increase tension on the tie off string. Look to eliminate clamp drawback when you remove the tensioner. Practice tying knots, the tag end of the string should always go through the loop of the first half hitch. If you’re using a double half hitch the tag end does not go through the loop created by the first half hitch. With hold a half hitch for a base the knot will go into the grommet. You need something to hold the string knot from sinking into the grommet. You’re not tying a DHH are you?

I wa experimenting with a parnell knot as my last knot on the crosses. I think I dit it right, but as I have a lot of extra string I put it into the tension instead of tensioning it by hand. I dropped the bar in a split second. This did not feel right however and I quickly raised it. Were my feeling right here or is it possible to tension a knot by using the dropweight bar? Hope I am not being annoying with all these questions by the way

 

[Irvin]

I wa experimenting with a parnell knot as my last knot on the crosses. I think I dit it right, but as I have a lot of extra string I put it into the tension instead of tensioning it by hand. I dropped the bar in a split second. This did not feel right however and I quickly raised it. Were my feeling right here or is it possible to tension a knot by using the dropweight bar? Hope I am not being annoying with all these questions by the way

You can absolutly tighten a knot by pulling tension with a tensioner. But you will not get the slack pulled out of the string between the knot and the clamp and you will break a lot of strings at the knot. I wouldn’t do that with natural gut or Kevlar.

 

[InsideInForehand]

You can absolutly tighten a knot by pulling tension with a tensioner. But you will not get the slack pulled out of the string between the knot and the clamp and you will break a lot of strings at the knot. I wouldn’t do that with natural gut or Kevlar.

Alright. This was with some cheap poly called Signum Poly power, so it should be good.

 

[Irvin]

Alright. This was with some cheap poly called Signum Poly power, so it should be good.

You will have a lot of tension loss because of the slack string between the knot and the clamp with a polyester string. It may not break at the knot as easily but IMO not a best practice.

 

[InsideInForehand]

You will have a lot of tension loss because of the slack string between the knot and the clamp with a polyester string. It may not break at the knot as easily but IMO not a best practice.

So just better to tension it on your own. By the way what do you exactly mean by slack? Is it like the string between the knot and the clamp? English is not my first language

 

[Irvin]

By the way what do you exactly mean by slack? Is it like the string between the knot and the clamp? English is not my first language

That’s exactly what I mean. The string between the knot and the clamp when you tie off is untensioned or slack string. With a poly string it tends to loop and not bend creating even more untensioned string. If you try to tie a Parnell knot and cinch it using a tensioned using poly you’ll have a lot of tension loss.

 

[InsideInForehand]

That’s exactly what I mean. The string between the knot and the clamp when you tie off is untensioned or slack string. With a poly string it tends to loop and not bend creating even more untensioned string. If you try to tie a Parnell knot and cinch it using a tensioned using poly you’ll have a lot of tension loss.

Thank you very much for clarifying this for me. Now I know that tension a knot by hand is better. Hope that I don't have to bother you too much anymore

 

[Standupnfall]

Thank you very much for clarifying this for me. Now I know that tension a knot by hand is better. Hope that I don't have to bother you too much anymore

I always tighten knots "By hand", but with "starting clamp" type pliers. Not actually with my fingers. Most videos you have seen will show it done like this.

 

[Irvin]

I always tighten knots "By hand", but with "starting clamp" type pliers. Not actually with my fingers. Most videos you have seen will show it done like this.

I always use a starting clamp for knots. The videos I make I do that.

 

[chic]

Thank you very much for clarifying this for me. Now I know that tension a knot by hand is better. Hope that I don't have to bother you too much anymore

A note for OP:

Practically if the last string is a bit looser it doesn't matter as the friction around the bends keeps the strings from really redistributing tension over time.

As a matter of form if you string for other people increasing tension a bit to make it more equal can make people more confident in the string job.
But if you're stringing for yourself and friends, and the last string isn't slacked, just slightly lower tension, you can ignore it. It won't loosen the whole stringbed.

 

[Wes]

@Lasse1910,

It's widely known/understood that it is a bad idea/practice to use the machine's tensioner for the purposes of cinching knots.
Knots should be tightened by hand, rather than the machine.

Now, whether you elect to use only your hands, or implement some type of tool (a starting clamp, parallel jaw pliers, cam-action pliers, etc. etc.), is a matter of personal choice.
A lot of stringers (including myself) opt to use a starting clamp when cinching our knots.

By the way what do you exactly mean by slack? Is it like the string between the knot and the clamp?

Correct - the section of string between the string clamp's last position and the tie-off location where the knot is tied.
You want to eliminate as much slack here as possible.

In the following video, you can see I how use the thumb of one hand to greatly reduce the amount of slack (just prior to my other hand cinching up the knot).

You also may want to read the following thread...

Cinching my parnell knots... why do they feel so loose until I release clamps?

Relative novice here, been stringing for six months and have done maybe 50 racquets so far. And so far, so good. I use a NEOS 1000 with a Wise 2086. When I finish my mains or crosses, I feel like there's a lot of slack in my parnell knots, even when I use my clamps to pull them tighter. It's...

tt.tennis-warehouse.com

Cheers, Wes

 

[Standupnfall]

I always use a starting clamp for knots. The videos I make I do that.

Yes, of course Irvin. You are included in the "Most videos you have seen will show it done like this." Just wanted to clarify for the OP that by hand is not always with just fingers.