Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by Fedfan4life, Jun 12, 2007.
Great to know. Did you see that pic I posted with the rubber padding on the throat mount?
I did, thanks for posting it. It's a great idea, and I've had no slipping since I taped my retainers.
Great to know. Are you going to put a wise head in the future?
No plans to as of now.
By the way, here's something I did that you may want to consider...
I recalibrated my machine to what I believe is a much truer way than illustrated in the Eagnas manual.
I tied a couple feet of string to each end of the tension calibrater, looped one end through the top center mains and clamped it tight. Ran the other end through a bottom main, and did the usual tension testing at 60 lbs.
I found I had to increase my machines lockout release by several pounds to actually be pulling the correct tension in the stringbed.
Something to think about.
Maybe this picture will more easily explain what I meant.
Because of the friction pulling through the grommet, you will lose some stringbed tension, so calibrating your tensioner this way should give you a much more accurate stringbed tension.
I imagine there's even more tension lost when stringing the crosses, as there's much more friction involved, which is why it's recommended to string a few pounds higher on the crosses. (plus the crosses generally have a little less overall length of string than the mains).
Frank is this you?
Wow. I must say that I've never thought of this before and probably other stringing machine users. Great job Slider
Too bad that I couldn't use this method yet since my 300's tension head accuracy is still spot on from Day 1.
Interesting. Maybe I should bring up this calibration method in another query, I don't know if anyone else does it this way either, but I'd be interested to know how valid my method is. I know for sure that what I pull straight from the clamp to the crank, and what I did in my method are two very different settings on the lockout release mechanism.
I think it mainly has to do with the crank being a bit lower than the grommets, so the added friction results in a "weaker" pull than you are actually pulling, if you tested straight from the clamp (like in the manual).
I've never seen anyone doing it that way but very interesting tho. I usually just do the usual method which clamping the calibrator with 2 clamps then pulling.
I have to try your method and see if your theory is right with my machine.
I finally tried your calibration technique, Slider. It works great, you should send it to the USRSA coz I didn't see that in their stringing books.
have any of you had problems with rackets becoming wider or warping?
Could someone explain how the crosses are done on this machine. What I'm getting at here is how to use the glide bar and all that stuff.
You have to remove both glide bars and put them on the other way. You only need one when you do the crosses.
Does it stay in one groove while stringing the crosses the entire time, or do you need to move it more?
i will use my freinds ektalon and make a vid
Sweet, I'd appreciate it.
i will be a lil while
i saw an ad for this Eagnas 300 on craigslist, and began to look at this thread for reviews and whatnot. reading all these great things, i jumped at the opportunity. my brother-in-law, my cousin, and i split the cost of $150 for this used stringer. it's at my house right now. the three of us have never strung a racquet before (but we all break strings all the time, and getting a stringer, especially at this price, seemed logical). if you guys could send a stringing tutorial, that would be great.
also, if any of you guys could email me an instruction manual that would be much appreciated also. firstname.lastname@example.org
looking forward to your help. i can't wait to get started with my g-stringer.
This will help. The only thing missing is how to mount on your particular machine. If you want, I can walk you through it. Just shoot me an email.
those were great videos. i was able to string my mains and crosses with little problem. there are a couple of questions i have:
1. the guy gave me a reel of poly strings to practice with. towards the bottom crosses, it got harder and harder to weave them. is it suppose to be like this, and is there an efficient way of doing so?
2. i'm still trying to figure out how to tie off the strings and keep tension and pull correctly, and all that crazy ****. maybe i overlooked one of your videos, but i could not find anything to help me on this particular and crucial step.
1. that is normal with all strings
2. you will get better with practice
Does the 300 have a Disc Brake Lock system?
It doesn't have the disc brake, it has the screw in brake system. There is a handle just under the turntable that sets and unsets the brake. It's easy to use, holds good, and works fine on O3 racquets.
I strung about 800 racquets on an EAG-300.
Can you post a picture of your racket loaded in the stringer? I might get the 300 myself too, but im trying to decide btwn 300 and 700, because 700 has a 4 point mounting so yea.
Did you look at the first pages of the thread? There's alot of them for you to decide on.
Grrr. We had a major dump of snow last weekend, and our courts are STILL half covered in snow! I finally got out today for my first practice (some serves.. into the dry court, standing in snow!)
No broken strings yet , but my machine smiles at me every morning.
Glad you tried my tension calibration method FedFan. I'm glad I posted pictures, or I might have forgotten it! (lol, not likely).
Are the Eagnas Flash better than the Eagnas 300??? i'm not too up to date on the eagnas, but i would assume so since they are more expensive??? Whats the difference between the Eagnas 300, 300H and 350? not too sure what a 4 universal V- shaped shoulder support is... do any of you???
and which eagnas to buy???
$400 would be ideal... but a little more for a MUCH better product wouldn't be soo bad either THANKS!
I see the different line of Eag 300s... 300, 350, 300H??, 700le... which one is preferable??? i see the one Fedfan4Life has and i think its sweet... looks and performance... which one is the best?? pros and cons of the different Eag models please Fedfan4Life?? you seem to know your stuff. thanks!
Go for an alpha pioneer dc plus or a revo if your willing to put in extra cash...
As you can see the other models except for the 300 and 300H has extra side supports which I don't think you would need. The 300H however has an H support stand to the usual X stand of the regular 300, again something that is not really important. Get the regular 300, I'm sure you'll be happy.
I picked up a used EAG 300 last night. I found that the glide bars are not glossy - i.e., not shiny finish. It is textured; something like matt-finished. I called Eagnas to find out the price of glide bars (shiny ones), and I was told that each bar is $50 - too expensive.
Have EAG-300 ever had matt finished glide bar?
I also found that moving a clamp on the bar using one hand is not easy. The clamp sticks a lot. Is it normal?
sounds like they need some break-in
On a well used machine, the smooth silver finish can flake off in spots. Someone could have decided to paint the bars. The clamps should slide smoothly.
what vehicle did you use to pick up the eag-300? does it fit in a regular sedan?
yes definitely, I used my 06 corolla to pick it up.
Hey, I have a question for you 300 fanatics
I just took a look at the Eagnas site after reading 15 pages worth of discussion. I took a look at the pro stringing machines, and I saw close to 10 machines that were between 349 to 399 bucks, with the 300 at 349, another at 349, others at 369, etc. Considering these are all in the same price range, what makes the 300 a better buy than the other machines in that price range? Apart from spending an extra 50 bucks that is. Is it just the 300 tends to be better quality?
I can't really judge the other machines that their selling, but the 300 is solidly built and very reliable.
hey fedfan4life, sorry but here's some more questions,
where can you get those rubber padding, and what adhesive did you use?
No problem, always happy to help. I just used a very wide rubber band with "tracks" on them for extra grip. I don't where I got them but I'm sure any arts and craft store might have them. For the glue I just used regular super glue.
What about the time to string a racket on your new challenger? any savings in time? Thanks
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