When the string "locks", every little or bigger piece of that string has the same tension, and every little or bigger piece of that string will lose tension at the same rate, if it is clamped or not.If you clamp quicker, you will lose slightly less tension as it's then a shorter section
When the string "locks", every little or bigger piece of that string has the same tension, and every little or bigger piece of that string will lose tension at the same rate, if it is clamped or not.
I feel for you. When I got back into tennis after a multi-decade break, I took two racquets to a pro shop to get strung with Solinco Hyper-G. For some reason I didn’t ask how much it would cost, so I was shocked when I picked them up and the bill was $82! I decided I would learn how to string.That's a good motivation to get him started!
Yeah, definitely not fair for the parents. We should start charging them. Luckily I am starting to enjoy stringing as long as it turns out good enough. It saves money in the long run. Hopefully it will get faster for me with practice.
BTW, what's eCP? Sorry I'm still new to this.
Thanks for sharing your experience, advice, and encouragement! I also find the wearing part particularly frustrating but it's getting much better now. I learned a trick which was to use a smooth bolt to help bring the string up and down across to make the weaving faster. My son and I have learned a lot more than just stringing but also about various types of strings.I feel for you. When I got back into tennis after a multi-decade break, I took two racquets to a pro shop to get strung with Solinco Hyper-G. For some reason I didn’t ask how much it would cost, so I was shocked when I picked them up and the bill was $82! I decided I would learn how to string.
I bought a used KlipperMate and my first 3-4 attempts took 2-3 hours. My results were inconsistent, the bed always felt loose, I missed some weaves on the crosses, etc. But I got better with each attempt.
Might I suggest getting your son’s racquet strung at the pro shop one more time? Then take the StringMeter you bought and take a measurement across 8 or so of the main strings. Take an average of this make it your “reference tension”. After you string a racquet, take some measurements, increase or decrease your machine’s tension each attempt, until you get to your “reference tension”. Also, follow the great advice already given here about using the same routine each time you string (i.e. wait 5 seconds before clamping).
I’m sure with a little more time, experience, and trail and error you will be able to figure this out (and along the way save your family tons of cash!).
I just bought an Alpha crank stringing machine to string my son's racquets
The goal was to save money
I would suggest just stringing the mains about 4lbs higher than the club stringer if they are using an electronic constant pull machine and the crosses maybe 6lbs higher.
From personal experience I would be careful following this advice That is how I have many many sets and reels of string and have given away 150+ racket experiments! It all started with me getting a used NEOS 1000!Don't be afraid to experiment to find out what works!
That is how I have many many sets and reels of string ...
If you clamp quicker, you will lose slightly less tension as it's then a shorter section
of string that is relaxing.....that you will maintain going forward in the process.
If you wait longer, the entire length will relax even longer
before clamping, then even more relax over time on the short section.
Would you rather clamp at 55 when stringing at 58 reference? Or would you rather clamp at 53?
It might be splitting hairs, but that is what we do here to minimize tension loss during the process.
It's even a good practice on any CP machine (yes, even yours) if only for consistency, to clamp
at a quick yet consistent pace.
Wrong!But, in any case, you always want to clamp as soon as possible regardless of what machine you use
Wrong!
- on a lockout slow or fast clamping after lockout makes no difference. What does make a difference: the position of the tensioning mechanisme, the distance towards the frame before you start tensioning the string.
If it is "as far away" as possible, then every piece of string is tensioned twice, resulting in a stiffer stringbed.
- on a eCP (or a dropweight) you should clamp after the tensioning process is "stable" (and the lasting elongation with that ref.tension is removed)
okay that's something I hadn't thought of, essentially prestretching the string you are about to put in the racquet next. I'll ponder it. I do something a little different: When I'm on a Neos 1500 I start a pull as close to the frame as possible, and when I get ~95% tension on the string I release the clamp on the previous string, to take any slack out of the previous string just before I finish the pull and lock the tension head. Clients seem to like it.Wrong!
- on a lockout slow or fast clamping after lockout makes no difference. What does make a difference: the position of the tensioning mechanisme, the distance towards the frame before you start tensioning the string.
If it is "as far away" as possible, then every piece of string is tensioned twice, resulting in a stiffer stringbed.
- on a eCP (or a dropweight) you should clamp after the tensioning process is "stable" (and the lasting elongation with that ref.tension is removed)
If you mark the "previous string" with a sharpy, do you see it move?, to take any slack out of the previous string just before I finish the pull and lock the tension head
Yes I see the string move.If you mark the "previous string" with a sharpy, do you see it move?
I doubt if your action has any effect caused by the resistance of the curve etc.