PaintJob Problems Case by case, request help..!!
- Thread starter muko
- Start date
case1: Uncovered masking or miss-masking area sprayed...
case1: Uncovered masking or miss-masking area sprayed...
cause:
-missed it,
-some area like grommets place the one where it is slightly goes in. sometimes the masking tape were lifted after a few spray...
solution:
1. sand it with grit600
2. for the one in the grommets just leave it, will be covered by the grommets
3. ?? please add ??
case1: Uncovered masking or miss-masking area sprayed...
cause:
-missed it,
-some area like grommets place the one where it is slightly goes in. sometimes the masking tape were lifted after a few spray...
solution:
1. sand it with grit600
2. for the one in the grommets just leave it, will be covered by the grommets
3. ?? please add ??
Case2: Leftovers of masking tape
cause: i use a fabric like masking tape, bcoz it is more flex to do curves
2.1.marks of masking tape on a still soft yellow paint
2.2.frayed edge leftover of masking tape
Solution:
1. sand it harsher with 200?
2. ?? please help... ?? 2.1 looked quite difficult to clean...
cause: i use a fabric like masking tape, bcoz it is more flex to do curves
2.1.marks of masking tape on a still soft yellow paint
2.2.frayed edge leftover of masking tape
Solution:
1. sand it harsher with 200?
2. ?? please help... ?? 2.1 looked quite difficult to clean...
Case5: chipped and cracked paint (major problem)
5.1. i opened the masking tape and it just comes off.. just that part
5.2. it got chipped, accidentally hit a pillar, i tried to recover by applying paint, doesn't seem to solve it.
this is major for me...
so i would like to know what could possibly cause 5.1?
and what is the best way to recover?
any suggestion is very much appreciated..
5.1. i opened the masking tape and it just comes off.. just that part
5.2. it got chipped, accidentally hit a pillar, i tried to recover by applying paint, doesn't seem to solve it.
this is major for me...
so i would like to know what could possibly cause 5.1?
and what is the best way to recover?
any suggestion is very much appreciated..
humm... this is on sequence:
0. primer 2 layers
1. white 3 layers
2. yellow 3 layers
3. black 3 layers
for every color
in between layers i wait around 2-3 hours
between 1st to 2nd layers i do sanding with grit400
however in some portions colors overlap each other.
like the black in 5.1 overlaps yellow but black in 5.2 is on top primer only.
In 5.1 the crack is layeres of white and yellow, the white is partial as i didn't spray white until the grommet holes. the white only until the side of the beam (ex. like 3.2)
0. primer 2 layers
1. white 3 layers
2. yellow 3 layers
3. black 3 layers
for every color
in between layers i wait around 2-3 hours
between 1st to 2nd layers i do sanding with grit400
however in some portions colors overlap each other.
like the black in 5.1 overlaps yellow but black in 5.2 is on top primer only.
In 5.1 the crack is layeres of white and yellow, the white is partial as i didn't spray white until the grommet holes. the white only until the side of the beam (ex. like 3.2)
What kind of paint did you use? Lacquer? Regular interior/exterior spraypaint?
Frayed edges, overspray, etc... problems: This is the result of applying heavy coats instead of light coats. A thick, heavy coat is going to seep underneath the tape. Problems could also be caused by applying tape improperly or too quickly.
Things stuck underneath paint: You need to wash the racquet off after sanding each coat.
Chips: You should either remove your tape more carefully or heat the adhesive with a hair drier to ease removal.
As a general matter though, you need to allow for a lot more drying time. You should be waiting a little longer in between coats of the same color, but you need to wait a lot longer in between colors. The paint needs to cure, thats where a lot of your problems are coming from.
Frayed edges, overspray, etc... problems: This is the result of applying heavy coats instead of light coats. A thick, heavy coat is going to seep underneath the tape. Problems could also be caused by applying tape improperly or too quickly.
Things stuck underneath paint: You need to wash the racquet off after sanding each coat.
Chips: You should either remove your tape more carefully or heat the adhesive with a hair drier to ease removal.
As a general matter though, you need to allow for a lot more drying time. You should be waiting a little longer in between coats of the same color, but you need to wait a lot longer in between colors. The paint needs to cure, thats where a lot of your problems are coming from.
Hmm thanks for the reply...
I think my whole life i never found any other spray paint not lacquer... maybe it's not common in my area or i am a total newbie... ha..ha.. but anyway laquer seems good...
nice tips on washing and the hair drier... i'll remember that on my second PJ next time...
btw... the prevention is good but is there any ideas on fixing my problems?
will sanding solve all...?
the chipped i am really clueless...
I think my whole life i never found any other spray paint not lacquer... maybe it's not common in my area or i am a total newbie... ha..ha.. but anyway laquer seems good...
nice tips on washing and the hair drier... i'll remember that on my second PJ next time...
btw... the prevention is good but is there any ideas on fixing my problems?
will sanding solve all...?
the chipped i am really clueless...
Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
on the other thread they mentioned nail polish paint (orwath ever you call that stuff) as a alternative for minor problems, might want to look into that, and since it will dry hard it will be easy to sand down afterards, i have yet to try it but it sounds like a good idea, i did try to repaint the small section i missed with the same spray can i used, big mistake, it kinda just melted the spot, a true touch up paint like the nail polish stuff would ahve been better for the small spots
Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
in regards t how long to leave or drying time, i left it for a whole day in between coats, and even then i still ran into the issues you ran into, but for sure let the paint dry a bit longer
symon_say
Rookie
I dont have experience painting raquets but i paint a lot of stuff with spary, remove the masking tape with the paint wet do let it dry cause it will cause some chips.
If you do it with still wet you'll have a nice straight line.
About chips, and damage, you can always sand that part cover the rest and apply paint. Always wash your painting surface with some degrassant soap, dish wash is nice so i wont have and grease on it.
If you do it with still wet you'll have a nice straight line.
About chips, and damage, you can always sand that part cover the rest and apply paint. Always wash your painting surface with some degrassant soap, dish wash is nice so i wont have and grease on it.
Blade0324
Hall of Fame
The first paint job I tried I had a number of the same issues that you have had and I waited in some cases 2 or more days in between coats of paint. On this first try I didn't know better and used regular lacquor spray paint and the end result looked good but was not very durable. The second go round I used and epoxy paint from a hobby store and it dries MUCH harder and the end result is far better as well. I also didn't run into many problems so long as I let it dry well in between coats of paint. I waited at least a full day and I waited about 3 days when changing colors and then a week if I wanted to mask over something that had recently been painted. Painting is definately a slow process for the average joe but if you want the end result to be good you have to be patient and take your time. The last one I did took me a total of about 4 weeks to finish from the time I started painting.
What brand of epoxy did you use? The only sprayable epoxy I can find is Rustoleum which is really meant for metal.
spectraflamed
New User
Your layers are way to thick that is causing most of your problems (chips, leakage etc...) You can buy adhesion promoter and mix it in your paint if using an airbrush or spray a layer if using rattle cans. Also until your final coat you can "rough up" the paint to help adhesion as well. If using an enamel they take forever to dry if lacquer they dry quickly and acrylic is in between.
thanks so much for the reply guys...
i will try washing with soap next time...
it's a good idea...
And now i understand a bit the nail polisher talk... hmmm....
Now also i am really tempted to buy an airbrush kit... because i want to really "draw" on the racquets next time...
i used to draw comics and colored it in Photoshop... it will be nice to do real airbrush....
but maybe later after 2 or 3 more PJs.
btw.. not only i lack in tools and knowledge... i also lack of time.
i can only work it on weekends... he..he.. that's why it is so rushy...
i will try washing with soap next time...
it's a good idea...
And now i understand a bit the nail polisher talk... hmmm....
Now also i am really tempted to buy an airbrush kit... because i want to really "draw" on the racquets next time...
i used to draw comics and colored it in Photoshop... it will be nice to do real airbrush....
but maybe later after 2 or 3 more PJs.
btw.. not only i lack in tools and knowledge... i also lack of time.
i can only work it on weekends... he..he.. that's why it is so rushy...
I worry i missunderstood...
So i should try to removed it while it is still wet is it?
isn't it risky?
coz might have touched the wet paint or something..
How was it in your experience...?
K
[K]Topspin
Guest
nice paintjob. People won't be able to tell from afar.
spectraflamed
New User
I highly recommend getting an airbrush if you are getting serious. Also use the blue painters tape that will not stick as much. Lastly a good paint job is all in prep. People might think I am nuts but you should not need to strip the old paint off but rather sand down all the rough spots then with about 400 grit "rough" it up spray a few primers coats sanding lightly in between each then lay down the color coats and clear. I am doing a frame via the rattle can I will post final pics whe I am done. Also forgot to mention patience is key. It is HARD to wait but better to wait to long than mess up a job because the paint has not fully dried (unless it is your tak coat).
hmm... i am curious about your PJ...
let me know also if you hav any probs...
i am also very lazy to sand down everything...
and i don't think i want to sand down my Dunlop 200G...
i worry of damaging the material...
Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
the problem with not sanding things down is that it will add notisable weight to the racquet, maybe a couple of oz's but enough so you'll notise, i did this to my frist pj and now its heavier then before with the added 6 or so coats i aplied to it over the old paint
Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
5.2. it got chipped, accidentally hit a pillar, i tried to recover by applying paint, doesn't seem to solve it.
this is major for me...
so i would like to know what could possibly cause 5.1?
and what is the best way to recover?
any suggestion is very much appreciated..
for this issue i would buy some BONDO filler, i believe you can pick this up at the automotive places, or maybe even the paint shops might have them, from what i understand, once this stuff id hard you can then sand it down to the right height
Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
the bondo filler is one i saw in the tv show "pimp my ride" they used it to fill up dents on cars, and then they sand it down prior to painting
spectraflamed
New User
Wow that must be a lot of paint to add a couple ounces the racquet I just did for kicks with sanding down before primer (took about 5-10 minutes) added way under 1 oz. Thin coats are key. As for the bondo idea it will work great (you can get marine stick bondo at Home Depot) but that will add weight. If you go the bondo route it is essential that you "rough up" the area so the bondo can get a good grab. I put the first clear coat on my racquet this AM so in a day or 2 I will post a pic. I admit since I have painted for a long time (not racquets) that I just did a quicky with this racquet. I also used only rattle cans but what the heck. Wet sanding is a wonderful thing keeps the sandpaper from getting gummed up quickly. I would suggest 1000 grit for between clearcoats and 2000 grit after your final clear dries. Remember thins coats and patience I know both are tough as it is exciting to see the racquet look so good but it will save you headaches in the long run.
spectraflamed
New User
Also if you use nail polish through an airbrush make sure you thin with lacquer thinner first.
Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
i applayed about 7 or so coats of paint, 2 base paints, 3 main color paints and then about 3 clear coats
i cant be sure as to how much exactly it added to it, but i know i can tell the difference in the weight
i did do another racquet where i sanded the paint off beforehand, and this one is much better in weight wise because of it, again i used about the same number of coats
so i guess if you dont use as many as i did you should be ok and not be able to tell the weight change as much
but i still think that since racquets are so light, any extra oz you can put or take off will have a impact on the final feel of the racquet
i cant be sure as to how much exactly it added to it, but i know i can tell the difference in the weight
i did do another racquet where i sanded the paint off beforehand, and this one is much better in weight wise because of it, again i used about the same number of coats
so i guess if you dont use as many as i did you should be ok and not be able to tell the weight change as much
but i still think that since racquets are so light, any extra oz you can put or take off will have a impact on the final feel of the racquet
Strings And Things
Rookie
PJ an aluminum racquet? That's a lot of effort.
Hey, if that's the frame you play well with, then all the best to you.
Hey, if that's the frame you play well with, then all the best to you.
iplaybetter
Hall of Fame
whate frame is that that you are starting with?
spectraflamed
New User
Pics
well here is my quickie. Pictures are not the best it is more glossy and the paint has a lot of flake in it. I do not understand the idea of painting a racquet to look like another either so this is a total custom job using a bunch of various designs.
well here is my quickie. Pictures are not the best it is more glossy and the paint has a lot of flake in it. I do not understand the idea of painting a racquet to look like another either so this is a total custom job using a bunch of various designs.
Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
i like it, very unique color combination and graphics for sure, i am all for the prokennex logo
give it some time before you string, let the paint dry as muich as possible, also try using tape on contacts points when striging the racquet, mine was messed up a bit because of contact points, but if i had not put tape i think the damage would have been worse
give it some time before you string, let the paint dry as muich as possible, also try using tape on contacts points when striging the racquet, mine was messed up a bit because of contact points, but if i had not put tape i think the damage would have been worse
Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
any chance we could see this baby strung up and ready for the courts??
ps, my racquet looked 10 times better when i took it out on the sun, the yellow colors i choose really poped on the sunlight
so even if we put tape the paint will still get damaged?i like it, very unique color combination and graphics for sure, i am all for the prokennex logo
give it some time before you string, let the paint dry as muich as possible, also try using tape on contacts points when striging the racquet, mine was messed up a bit because of contact points, but if i had not put tape i think the damage would have been worse
spectraflamed do update us if any problem with the paint after stringing playing or usage...
i want to know if there are any durability difference between all sandstripping and lightsanding...
becoz i wanted to try lightsanding for future projects... with better racket... so i am very curious....
i want to know if there are any durability difference between all sandstripping and lightsanding...
becoz i wanted to try lightsanding for future projects... with better racket... so i am very curious....
Light sanding (ie. only removing the clear coat but not the color coats) will work fine with a new racquet with no imperfections. If you have any scratches or chips you are going to have to sand down to that coat and/or fill it with Bondo to smooth out the imperfections.
Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
yeah, for me that was the case, i was definately using the wrong kind of paint, or maybe i was using too much
im gonna try some other type of paint next time, maybe it will work better
Loco4Tennis
Hall of Fame
well here is my quickie. Pictures are not the best it is more glossy and the paint has a lot of flake in it. I do not understand the idea of painting a racquet to look like another either so this is a total custom job using a bunch of various designs.
spectraflamed, hows the racquet?
have you hit with it yet?
any difference in swingweight?
muko some tips !!
muko , nice job . here is what i suggest .
1. dont be too hard on yourself , it looks great .
2. paint and masking tape HAVE to be top quality. you can NOT use dollar can from walmart.same with the masking tape.
3. make sure paint is completely dry. even over night.
4. shoot light coats , rather do 7 light coats then one heavy coat
check this out ..http://s395.photobucket.com/albums/pp40/janster01/
muko , nice job . here is what i suggest .
1. dont be too hard on yourself , it looks great .
2. paint and masking tape HAVE to be top quality. you can NOT use dollar can from walmart.same with the masking tape.
3. make sure paint is completely dry. even over night.
4. shoot light coats , rather do 7 light coats then one heavy coat
check this out ..http://s395.photobucket.com/albums/pp40/janster01/
