Problem after stringing Prince Beast with PT Fire

[Bedrosian]

Hello everyone

I started stringing my own rackets just a month ago, and after some practice I decided to string my game racket with one of my favourite string. Then I tested it for a couple of hours, but after just a couple of shots I noticed that the crosses were already moving a lot and simply wouldn't stay in place.
What could have caused that? I strung it at about 22.5/21.5 kg and it took me 50 minutes, is it just a matter of tension loss or does it concern the fact that I don't have a setting off awl to align the strings properly at the end of the process (I do with my fingers)?
I know that something like this happens if the racket is not strung properly, and I can accept it, I just would just know why.

Thanks in advance for your attention
Ciao!

Giorgio

 

[esgee48]

I am not that familiar with the Prince Beast line. Do they have the ports or the regular grommet holes? When pulling string thru a port, you must make sure that the string is aligned correctly against the frame. If it is pulled towards the other side of the port, you are doing it wrong. Prince use to provide a boomerang for this (there are substitutes) or use your turntable brake. The extra length from not aligning the string means a large tension loss when you do straighten them out. You have to align or straighten the string before applying tension if LO or while the string is pulled if CP.

 

[1HBHfanatic]

could be a couple of issues could attribute to the loss in tension on the crosses:
1 (not sure if this is it, since you said you stratighten by hand??!!), straightening the strings after stringing is a likely culprit IMO though,, the string relax after the first 24hours, if they are not straight after you string them, then they will relax in a crocket position, attributing to tension loss on the crosses
2 could be that the clamps where not tight enough when doing the crosses!?!, when doing the mains, the clamps clamp lower on the teeth, and less pressure is needed, but while doing the crosses, the clamps will grab the strings higher up on the teeth, where more pressure is needed to close on that same string (sometimes I have to adjust a bit more on the crosses than the mains because of this),,

 

[esgee48]

align the strings properly at the end of the process (I do with my fingers)?

This wording says he has smiles or frowns in his crosses. They should be straighten before pulling tension with LO or while pulling with CP. Doing it after the job is finished means his crosses are not even close to ref tension. Still waiting on whether his Beast has ports or grommets. And how he handles pulls to the wrong side of the port.

 

[Irvin]

Hello everyone

I started stringing my own rackets just a month ago, and after some practice I decided to string my game racket with one of my favourite string. Then I tested it for a couple of hours, but after just a couple of shots I noticed that the crosses were already moving a lot and simply wouldn't stay in place.
What could have caused that? I strung it at about 22.5/21.5 kg and it took me 50 minutes, is it just a matter of tension loss or does it concern the fact that I don't have a setting off awl to align the strings properly at the end of the process (I do with my fingers)?
I know that something like this happens if the racket is not strung properly, and I can accept it, I just would just know why.

Thanks in advance for your attention
Ciao!

Giorgio

What machine and clamps did you use to string your racket?

 

[Irvin]

If you’re using a LO machine it would be a good idea to pull every cross 2 or 3 times. The LO engages when the opposing force builds up to the set tension. It takes a lot of force to pull poly through a hard poly weave, and that’s what you have if you’re tensioning on a LO with poly. After you clamp the string equalizes and you’ve lost a lot of tension then your crosses are loose.

EDIT:Tension each main twice and each cross three times.

 

[Bedrosian]

First of all thanks everyone for your reactions. Then I want to apologize for my poor english.

I use indeed a LO, a 20 years old Alpha Axis with original clamps (as soos as I'll get the insert image error solved I will post a pic). The racket is a Beast 100 300 with grommets.
After I finished to string my racket I checked for smiles, then adjusted it with my fingers since I don't have a setting off awl to "stab" the racket between the strings.

Irvin, I had already seen that video but I didn't realize yet how important it is with LO machines to repeat the pulling. In fact, I normally do it only for the last 3 crosses.
My question is now: by pulling the cross 3 times, is there any chance I am going to damage the mains (saw effect)?

I guess I'll just have to make it on a regular basis from now on. And I will pay attention with aligning every cross string already before pulling it.

Thanks again, I'll try again and let you know what the new result is going to be.

Ciao!
Giorgio

 

[Arzivu]

Tension each main twice and each cross three times

Is that a general consensus of using a lockout machine? I understand that you are aiming as close as possible to the reference tension, but that seems quite tiring

 

[Bedrosian]

20191110 185652 — Postimages

postimg.cc

 

[esgee48]

I am not sure there is a general consensus. If you want to make a LO string job feel like a CP string job, you can do what Irvin suggests or just increase the ref tension on the LO by 3-5#. The major issue we tried to address is straightening your crosses before you crank.

 

[Arzivu]

Yeap, that was just a side topic. Not trying to overshadow OP's main concern...

 

[Irvin]

Is that a general consensus of using a lockout machine? I understand that you are aiming as close as possible to the reference tension, but that seems quite tiring

ABSOLUTELY NOT THAT IS NOT A GENERAL CONSENSUS. But it is my belief A LO machine will engage the brake and at that point no further stretch is applied to the string. The LO does apply a small tension because of the spring but it will never increase the tension again and stretch will not increase (much) unless you pull again. In order to increase the tension after the string relaxes you will need to apply the stretch again. Applying tension again increases stretch but unless you adjust the tension you will never increase tension. Using this method you’re are manually doing what an eCP does automatically except that you will never go over the set reference tension like an eCP does.

If you want to remove slack in the cross strings with a LO, you must either increase reference tension or pull (Apply tension) more than once to get the same stretch as other types of machines do.

EDIT: Another point is straightening your crosses. If your cross is bowed they will loosen as you straighten them. So it would be a good idea to straighten the crosses before you do your final pull On a cross.

 

[Irvin]

I understand that you are aiming as close as possible to the reference tension, but that seems quite tiring

The OP’s concern was to get the tension in the crosses up so they would not move around after stringing the frame. You could set the Ref tension higher, hold the brake release lever so the break does not engage Initially release some tension and pull again, or do multiple pulls. Tiring or not that is the nature of the beast.

 

[Rabbit]

@Bedrosian (@Arzivu ) there are lots of "beliefs" around here. Short of it is, you need to find the tension number on your machine that gives you the desired result. You do not have to pull and re-pull (and re-pull and re-pull ad nauseum) the tension. Again, find the tension number that gives you the desired result and do not fret over "beliefs". All this will do is cause you to worry about nothing important.

One thing you can do is improve your technique when stringing. This comes through practice and repetition. It is important to keep the crosses as straight as possible while stringing, no matter the machine or the tensioner used. You will get better with practice (if you pay attention).

Please don't get sucked into the "this is rocket science" attitude around here. You're pulling a tension and clamping. Spend the majority of your time playing, not trying to prove out some "belief".

Here is a real world story. There is a WTA event that I used to string at. For a time, the only stringing machine available was a lockout. The girls would come in and for the first couple of days, they practiced. When they practiced, they did two things: they got used to the courts and they adjusted their equipment. That adjustment was their tension. They didn't change their rackets, they didn't change their string, they changed their tension. From town to town, they encountered different machines. In each town then, they bumped their tension up or down to compensate for the variable (the stringing machine).

After a few years, the stringing machine (mine) was constant pull. The girls didn't know that. They did the same thing described above, they found their number for the week.

Now what they did do for the week is request the same person string their frames.

It's all about defining constants and eliminating variables. If you pull 82 times on a string, you're introducing more variables. Variables are not good.

In summary, apply the KISS method to stringing: Keep It Simple, Stupid.

 

[Bedrosian]

Is there any chance (with re-pulling) that the mains cold get damaged by the crosses?

Thanks again folks, now I have a clearer idea of this concept.

 

[fritzhimself]

The art of stringing | pro-t-one

@Bedrosian
Maybe the link in your language will help you...!

 

[Rabbit]

@Bedrosian - No, not really.

For the nit pickers (and you know who you are): I make this statement in full realization that any time you pull tension with one string sliding across another friction is incurred. Friction begets notching. However, the notching in this case is so minimal as to be considered negligible. Here ends the disclaimer.

 

[Irvin]

Is there any chance (with re-pulling) that the mains cold get damaged by the crosses?

Thanks again folks, now I have a clearer idea of this concept.

Why would you be pulling the mains with crosses installed? IMO that is a big no no.

EDIT: If what you meant was pulling crosses with the mains installed I misread your comment. Notching is caused by friction and / or rapid movement of perpendicular strings. The movement of the cross will be minimal and it shouldn’t damage the mains. It should not be as bad as hitting a ball once.

 

[Rabbit]

@Irvin - he asked if the mains could get damaged by re-pulling the crosses. Read back, your suggestion was to pull the crosses 2 - 3 times. He's asking if repeatedly pulling the crosses will damage the mains.

Remember kids: Reading Is Fundamental.

 

[Rabbit]

@Irvin - for brevity's sake, you could have just referred to my post preceding yours; ergo the moniker Captain Obvious.

 

[Irvin]

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