So confused about strings...

[mhkeuns]

Hi. i have been playing tennis since the early eighties..., and my string choices back then were: 1. Natural Gut - when my parents were paying for the string job, 2. Prince Synthetic Gut 16G - when I had to pay for it, and lastly, 3. Prince ProBlend - when I was playing High School Tennis and needed the strings to last, and I had to pay for the string.

Presently, I don't have a clue when people talk about full poly, hybrid, multi-filament, or whatever...

Could someone briefly explain the various string types with their strengths and weaknesses.

I have the APD 2013 version and just purchased the 99S. I didn't think much, and since both are string breakers (*more so with the 99s), I thought it would save me some bucks by buying a reel of the 16G synthetic gut. However, a long time forum member who has posted many helpful infos said that those racquets need full poly. I just don't know how they are different. Hopefully someone could explain it in a simple form.

Thank you in advance.

 

[wmilas]

Sure. Glad to help.

synthetic: The cheap stuff you are used to.. ie Prince. It hasn't changed much. Although OGSM, Forten, and a few others are better than Prince now a days.

multi: lots of micro strands of synthetic braided together. Acts more like gut than synthetic. Very easy on the arm, mediumish power.

Gut: Exactly what you used to use, although can come with a coating now to extend life. The best volley string.

Poly: All the rage. Comes in a harder "first generation" and a softer "co-poly". Can be smooth, oval, shaped like a sprocket, or twisted, or any combination there of. Great for baseline and big hitters where newer frames generate a ton of power and you need a low power alternative. Also tends to bit the ball more. also has special properties to allow spin which I'll discuss in hybrid.

hybrid: Any combination of 2 different strings. can be a gut/poly, synthetic/poly, ect. The idea is to blend to string types for various attributes. I'll list them:

Baseline with control: Poly mains with a non poly cross. This tends to soften the bed so that you get the big baseline rips with better volley potential than all poly.

Baseline plus: Poly/poly. Looking for a big baseline stroke with all the benefits of a hard poly in the mains and a softer poly in the cross. Soft polies tend to lose tension faster than hards. In this setup the tension loss is offset by having it in the cross.

Ultimate spin: Gut mains/poly crosses. If your frame is not a string breaker, this will yield the most spin. Research has shown that spin (after technique) is mostly developed from the mains sliding across the crosses and snapping back when you make a "windshield wiper" motion on a ground stroke. So, to accentuate this you want the most movement. The above does this by having a low coefficient of friction along with guts amazing elasticity.

I'm cheap, or my stick shreds strings but I still want ultimate-ish, spin: Replace gut with a smooth hard synthetic (OGSM ect). Multi does NOT work here. Not as good as gut, but a fraction of the price. Still works well.

There are dozens of others. These are the main groups.

Hope that helped.

 

[mhkeuns]

Thank you so much. I guess the best is to try out different set ups... Playing tennis is so much fun, but I guess if I want to maximize the results and squeeze out a little more funness, I should invest a little more time into learning the strings.
Still have the bad habits of looking for something that will last and cheap, rather than looking for something that will get the most out of my playing style. I'm not cheap with the racquet purchases, but I have been overlooking on the importance of the strings... I think my shoulder is telling me something, too.
Thank you again.

 

[wmilas]

If you want cheap and arm friendly try a middle of the road multi full bed. Mikeler has a big list of all the multis he play tested. It'll help you a ton. Its a stup up from full synthetic.

If its too soft and or too powerful consider trying a synthetic in the mains with a cheap poly cross.

Both of these are the best bang for the buck but still easy on the arm.

If you play with a string eater like a Steam try a soft co poly thats cheap but good like the Tourna bhb7. In a 99s it'll feel softish and last a wee bit longer than a synthetic in the main.

Be warned. If you want more than 90-120 minutes out of the 99s you will have to put a poly in the mains. Even so a soft poly with a full swing will only last you 3-4 hours. I break bhb7 in 2.5. Or suck it up and string yourself and just deal with it

 

[athiker]

A few places to poke around:

http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/LC/StringReference.html

http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/LC/

http://twu.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/index.php

My 2c is below...

In general Syn Gut is cheapest with okay all-around performance, okay longevity before it gets a bit dead and okay comfort. Buy a roll and string yourself and its dirt cheap.

Multis have very good all-around performance, very comfortable, good spin , good touch but can have a bit of a trampoline effect when really swinging out. Also they can wear fairly quickly for string breakers. More expensive than Syn Gut but not crazy for the most part...cost varies pretty widely. Usually do not go dead and can play till they break.

Polys are very slick and when fresh (so they snap back) provide best spin due to very low friction and relatively low power so players can swing out with high racquet head speed but still maintain control. Can be tough on arm/shoulder comfort if strung high, if poor technique or just nagging injuries (us old guys). Even less comfortable when they start to go dead and lose their spring, which they do pretty quickly...this varies somewhat by particular string and you will see opinions of this all over this forum. Very durable in terms of breaking though. Cost isn't too bad in general but will probably need to restring pretty often to keep fresh strings on the racquet so can add up.

Natural Gut is the most expensive, though there are some cheaper ones out there. The cheaper ones can be okay but some are prone to breaking when stringing if not careful or breaking sooner during play. Are typically strung pretty high to counter high natural power. Offer great "playability" meaning hard and soft shots have a better chance of going where intended. Drop shots, volleys, slices, etc. are very nice. Can shred and break pretty quickly if a string breaker so can get expensive to use. Will play great right up until it breaks though; does not go "dead". Most comfortable ride available.

Hope this helps and is at least mostly accurate.

 

[mhkeuns]

Thanks guys. I think the modern technology really has helped the development of the strings.
I am understanding a bit more on which strings to use for the Steam 99S. I wanted to know what would be a good set up for the player's racquets like the Prestige? Would the full bed of poly help the racquet with more power and control? I'm seeing from other posts that it seems like the hybrid stringing gets the most out of the racquets.
Just have to try and find out. Thank you guys so much.

 

[colowhisper]

I wanted to know what would be a good set up for the player's racquets like the Prestige?.

I am totally smitten with gut mains and co-poly crosses for my Prestige MPs. My current favorite set up is Pacific 17g and Mosquito Bite 18g cross.

 

[mhkeuns]

I am totally smitten with gut mains and co-poly crosses for my Prestige MPs. My current favorite set up is Pacific 17g and Mosquito Bite 18g cross.

Thank you. I will try that! It's a bit overwhelming trying to get to know all the strings out there. Much more study needed... Much more so than the racquets...

 

[parasailing]

Thank you. I will try that! It's a bit overwhelming trying to get to know all the strings out there. Much more study needed... Much more so than the racquets...

Not really, it's about the same as racquets but there are so many different strings out there as well as a constant release of new ones. It's best to as about specifics so we can help you on your tennis journey.

 

[mhkeuns]

Not really, it's about the same as racquets but there are so many different strings out there as well as a constant release of new ones. It's best to as about specifics so we can help you on your tennis journey.

I guess you are right. I've been doing a lot of reading, and it seems like many of the posters have already played with various string set ups. Lots of reading to do... I don't know what it is about tennis. I've played many different sports, and even MMA because I love being active. Nothing gives me as much pleasure as hitting a clean winner. I just want to be as good as I can get while having fun with my hitting partners.

Thanks guys. I will be asking many, many more questions. Newbie when it comes to string, but I enjoy reading your experiences.

 

[Power Player]

Hey there, this thread may help you with the 99s (which is a different animal in terms of string requirements)

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=451250

 

[mhkeuns]

Hey there, this thread may help you with the 99s (which is a different animal in terms of string requirements)

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=451250

Thanks. I really appreciate it.

 

[SCRAP IRON]

Hi. i have been playing tennis since the early eighties..., and my string choices back then were: 1. Natural Gut - when my parents were paying for the string job, 2. Prince Synthetic Gut 16G - when I had to pay for it, and lastly, 3. Prince ProBlend - when I was playing High School Tennis and needed the strings to last, and I had to pay for the string.

Presently, I don't have a clue when people talk about full poly, hybrid, multi-filament, or whatever...

Could someone briefly explain the various string types with their strengths and weaknesses.

I have the APD 2013 version and just purchased the 99S. I didn't think much, and since both are string breakers (*more so with the 99s), I thought it would save me some bucks by buying a reel of the 16G synthetic gut. However, a long time forum member who has posted many helpful infos said that those racquets need full poly. I just don't know how they are different. Hopefully someone could explain it in a simple form.

Thank you in advance.

Trust me- With all the options and scientific data currently available for strings, you will wish that you never knew that they existed. They say ignorance is bliss, and "they" are right on the money!

 

[mhkeuns]

Trust me- With all the options and scientific data currently available for strings, you will wish that you never knew that they existed. They say ignorance is bliss, and "they" are right on the money!

LOL... I'm kind of with you on that. Poly, co-poly what? Hybrid??? LOL...It's still fun, though.

 

[user92626]

S

I'm cheap, or my stick shreds strings but I still want ultimate-ish, spin: Replace gut with a smooth hard synthetic (OGSM ect). Multi does NOT work here. Not as good as gut, but a fraction of the price. Still works well.

There are dozens of others. These are the main groups.

Hope that helped.

You seem very knowledgeable. How cheap can you get for your set-up. I'm cheap,too but I found a full bed of cheap (or on sale) co-poly to work great. A set doesn't go above 4usd and last me 6 weeks nicely, and a full copoly bed string feels less complicated and looks nice than your variety combo. I dunno.

I use cheap red pro's pro for crosses and sale Kirschbaum Smash or Pro line X for mains. Looks great and behave uniformly.

 

[mhkeuns]

You seem very knowledgeable. How cheap can you get for your set-up. I'm cheap,too but I found a full bed of cheap (or on sale) co-poly to work great. A set doesn't go above 4usd and last me 6 weeks nicely, and a full copoly bed string feels less complicated and looks nice than your variety combo. I dunno.

I use cheap red pro's pro for crosses and sale Kirschbaum Smash or Pro line X for mains. Looks great and behave uniformly.

So..., are you saying the more expensive strings do not always guarantee better performance? I'd rather be spending less on the similar quality... I've played with the nylon strings of the 80's, so I don't think it could get much worse than that. I'm leaning towards the hybrid set up with poly mains with multi crosses, which seem to give durability and the playability at the same time... I'm still guessing, though. Gotta string up my newly arrived 99S.

 

[wmilas]

If I had to string a players racket I'd go gut mains and a poly cross all the way just as Pbarrow says. If you can get 5+ hours out of this setup, IMHO this is the sweetest most well rounded setup that exists.

 

[wmilas]

user92626: In my steam 99s pretty much anything breaks at max 6-8 hours. I'm older now (40) so I can't always string fully poly. When I do its a co-poly and I'll still hybrid it with a super soft poly cross.

The cheapest setup for me that's acceptable is OGSM mains (2 bux for the mains from a reel) and any of the soft Pro's pro by the reel (another 2-4 bux) depending on what I pick.

This only lasts me 2 hours but hey, feels great and is pretty damn cheap. I string myself.

Right now I'm working through a reel of Polyfibre tcs for the crosses. Its a bit more expensive (I splurged) but it plays REALLY nice. It goes into ball launcher mode in the mains in 2-3 hours but as a cross its great and I break the mains too fast before it becomes an issue.

 

[mhkeuns]

Man... I wish I could string myself. It would make things so much easier... Is it very difficult to learn?

 

[Muppet]

It's not difficult to learn at all. And you always know what you're getting. No mis-communications, etc. Also, you can stock your own favourite strings and you can get a racquet done whenever you need it, no waiting and no travelling. And I really enjoy the monotonous, repetetive process. It's very meditative. I spent $425 on my first stringer 3 years ago. You can go lower, but the build quality and features might not be as good. I only string for myself and I'm very happy with it as a hobby.

 

[wmilas]

It depends. If you are the kind of guy that likes fishing, you'll like stringing. If you can't sit still for 45 minutes, you'll hate it.

That said, I love it. I get the EXACT string job I want every time. It lets me play with tensions and strings at my convenience and not someone else's.

It also saves a ton of money if you or your family play a lot. If you play on and off I'd have someone else string.

Its very easy to learn. It looks insanely complicated if you watch for the first time but its really not.

 

[user92626]

So..., are you saying the more expensive strings do not always guarantee better performance? I'd rather be spending less on the similar quality... I've played with the nylon strings of the 80's, so I don't think it could get much worse than that. I'm leaning towards the hybrid set up with poly mains with multi crosses, which seem to give durability and the playability at the same time... I'm still guessing, though. Gotta string up my newly arrived 99S.

I don't know how good you can get with strings. For sure I don't want to spend 40 bucks or more to find out. That's because I already feel very good with my current strings and do not believe strings contribute that much more, especially in relation to cost.

IMO, you're doing it wrong with poly mains and multi crosses. Poly greatness comes from its elasticity and smoothness where it can move and reset freely (and it takes capable strokes to stretch them). Multi is not smooth and tends to fray. If you insist you should do the other way around, ie multi main and poly cross, which basically you put all the load on the multi. Multi will stretch but not poly, kinda uneven for the stringbed.

If you play tennis for more than a year, getting a 200 under stringer is a wise investment. It's very easy to string. I have my own way that makes it easy for me, too.

 

[user92626]

It depends. If you are the kind of guy that likes fishing, you'll like stringing. If you can't sit still for 45 minutes, you'll hate it.

Even if you don't like, you can't hate it when you think about the money and time you save and the benefit of your game when you always have a consistent and new string job.

Before I got my cheap gamma x-2, I spend $25 at the shop, planned and took at least 1 1/2 hour for it, and then always wondered if I should have gone with a different set-up.

With a stringer, it's completely opposite for the better.

 

[mhkeuns]

I don't know how good you can get with strings. For sure I don't want to spend 40 bucks or more to find out. That's because I already feel very good with my current strings and do not believe strings contribute that much more, especially in relation to cost.

IMO, you're doing it wrong with poly mains and multi crosses. Poly greatness comes from its elasticity and smoothness where it can move and reset freely (and it takes capable strokes to stretch them). Multi is not smooth and tends to fray. If you insist you should do the other way around, ie multi main and poly cross, which basically you put all the load on the multi. Multi will stretch but not poly, kinda uneven for the stringbed.

If you play tennis for more than a year, getting a 200 under stringer is a wise investment. It's very easy to string. I have my own way that makes it easy for me, too.

That's why I'm so confused. It seems like many members are getting better results with certain set ups, though. BTW, thanks for clarifying the poly and the multi...

 

[Power Player]

at first I hated stringing. Almost just stopped. But that was because I got a cheap drop weight machine. It is much better to find something used that is higher quality and then commit to stringing. The reason is because it will pay for itself. Since stringing is around $12 at minimum, plus waiting for it, I calculated that I save over $550 a year. I spent $500 on my used stringway that TTer hooked me up with, and I paid for it in one year.

 

[mhkeuns]

It's not difficult to learn at all. And you always know what you're getting. No mis-communications, etc. Also, you can stock your own favourite strings and you can get a racquet done whenever you need it, no waiting and no travelling. And I really enjoy the monotonous, repetetive process. It's very meditative. I spent $425 on my first stringer 3 years ago. You can go lower, but the build quality and features might not be as good. I only string for myself and I'm very happy with it as a hobby.

I'm really enjoying tennis right now with great hitting partners. I think I'm going to invest into buying a stringer. Can you guys recommend me an easy - to - use machine that has decent build quality? I know I should be doing some research on it, but my head hurts from trying to understand the various strings. Thanks in advance.

 

[mhkeuns]

at first I hated stringing. Almost just stopped. But that was because I got a cheap drop weight machine. It is much better to find something used that is higher quality and then commit to stringing. The reason is because it will pay for itself. Since stringing is around $12 at minimum, plus waiting for it, I calculated that I save over $550 a year. I spent $500 on my used stringway that TTer hooked me up with, and I paid for it in one year.

Honestly, I bought a cheap one in the 80's and ended up giving it away. I gave up stringing because of that POS..., and I didn't quite have the funds as a kid. Looking to.get a nice used one. Hopefully you guys can help me with the some brands and models. Thanks.

 

[Power Player]

This is a whole other rabbit hole, and can be a little overwhelming. I'd suggest looking on craiglist for used machines and then looking up review on them here by going to google, typing talk tennis and then the name of the machine.

My Stringway ms200tt is perfect for a home stringer. It may be one the ultimate choices due to auto drop weight, which is perfect for stringing poly, but you can string anything with it. It just is a constant pull which means that it always is stretching the string while tensioning it. It uses gravity to get the tension right, so if you hold the string in there while it is being tensioned, it will slowly adjust the tension arm to keep the string at tension - great for poly.

If you can find a used one for $500 or so, and it is is good shape, just get one. You also can find some classic Prince machines on craigslist as well..it boils down to luck, but I would suggest against starting with a klippermate or similar machine. I did that, and it is just too difficult to learn on IMO. Some people do just fine, but I can string a steam in 30 minutes on my string way at perfect tension, and it just is a much more pleasurable experience.

 

[mhkeuns]

This is a whole other rabbit hole, and can be a little overwhelming. I'd suggest looking on craiglist for used machines and then looking up review on them here by going to google, typing talk tennis and then the name of the machine.

My Stringway ms200tt is perfect for a home stringer. It may be one the ultimate choices due to auto drop weight, which is perfect for stringing poly, but you can string anything with it. It just is a constant pull which means that it always is stretching the string while tensioning it. It uses gravity to get the tension right, so if you hold the string in there while it is being tensioned, it will slowly adjust the tension arm to keep the string at tension - great for poly.

If you can find a used one for $500 or so, and it is is good shape, just get one. You also can find some classic Prince machines on craigslist as well..it boils down to luck, but I would suggest against starting with a klippermate or similar machine. I did that, and it is just too difficult to learn on IMO. Some people do just fine, but I can string a steam in 30 minutes on my string way at perfect tension, and it just is a much more pleasurable experience.

Thanks. I think the one I ended up giving away was the Klippermate... I really appreciate it.

 

[Muppet]

It's not difficult to learn at all. And you always know what you're getting. No mis-communications, etc. Also, you can stock your own favourite strings and you can get a racquet done whenever you need it, no waiting and no travelling. And I really enjoy the monotonous, repetetive process. It's very meditative. I spent $425 on my first stringer 3 years ago. You can go lower, but the build quality and features might not be as good. I only string for myself and I'm very happy with it as a hobby.

I'm really enjoying tennis right now with great hitting partners. I think I'm going to invest into buying a stringer. Can you guys recommend me an easy - to - use machine that has decent build quality? I know I should be doing some research on it, but my head hurts from trying to understand the various strings. Thanks in advance.

For a home stringer there are 4 basic specs to consider, besides build quality:

type of mount
-2 point
-6 point
-others

type of clamps
-floating (flying) clamps
-fixed clamps
-glide bar clamps (kind of fixed)

type of gripper
-linear
-rotational

type of tensioner
-dropweight
-lockout
-electronic
-electric

Not to scare you off, but I thought it would help you to have a list like this. Now you will be able to recognize what category something falls into when you see it advertised or discussed. And for build quality, it's best to go by reputation, and a comprehensive warranty helps too. My Alpha Pioneer DC+ machine is very solid. It has a 6 point mount, fixed clamps, a linear gripper, and a dropweight tensioner. If I needed to do a higher volume of racquets, I would have chosen another stringer. Dropweights are slow.

 

[Power Player]

For home use I prefer the auotdropweight system of the Stringway. It is unique though. But I rank it #1 for home stringing cost to performance.

I would recommend after that a lockout than an electronic (more expensive).

If cost is no issue, an electronic stringer is ideal. Constant pull, high rate of speed.

Since cost usually is an issue, auto drop or lockout is best.

I would be wary of EAGNAS. Their prices are awesome, but there are a lot of people who have had problems with their customer service. They do make a copy of the Stringway machine, and that may be worth exploring if you can find a used one. The problem would be maintenance or replacement parts. If you deal with Alpha, who now handles Stringway machines, you will be dealing with top notch customer service, and that makes a huge difference if you ever need a repair.

No matter what machine you get, I would suggest getting a starting clamp. Add that to your budget.

As for mounting - It is very important. You will want to have a good mounting system on your machine.

I much prefer fixed clamps over floating as well.

 

[mhkeuns]

For a home stringer there are 4 basic specs to consider, besides build quality:

type of mount
-2 point
-6 point
-others

type of clamps
-floating (flying) clamps
-fixed clamps
-glide bar clamps (kind of fixed)

type of gripper
-linear
-rotational

type of tensioner
-dropweight
-lockout
-electronic
-electric

Not to scare you off, but I thought it would help you to have a list like this. Now you will be able to recognize what category something falls into when you see it advertised or discussed. And for build quality, it's best to go by reputation, and a comprehensive warranty helps too. My Alpha Pioneer DC+ machine is very solid. It has a 6 point mount, fixed clamps, a linear gripper, and a dropweight tensioner. If I needed to do a higher volume of racquets, I would have chosen another stringer. Dropweights are slow.

:shock:

Thank you. I am intimidated for sure..., especially with all the categories. I'm sure there are benefits and disadvantages for each..., but wow! I was really happy that I finally have a collection racquets I really love... Now onto the strings and stringing machines... I really appreciate all your help. I can't believe I'm such a newb at this, and my hitting partners think I know a lot about tennis.

 

[mhkeuns]

For home use I prefer the auotdropweight system of the Stringway. It is unique though. But I rank it #1 for home stringing cost to performance.

I would recommend after that a lockout than an electronic (more expensive).

If cost is no issue, an electronic stringer is ideal. Constant pull, high rate of speed.

Since cost usually is an issue, auto drop or lockout is best.

I would be wary of EAGNAS. Their prices are awesome, but there are a lot of people who have had problems with their customer service. They do make a copy of the Stringway machine, and that may be worth exploring if you can find a used one. The problem would be maintenance or replacement parts. If you deal with Alpha, who now handles Stringway machines, you will be dealing with top notch customer service, and that makes a huge difference if you ever need a repair.

No matter what machine you get, I would suggest getting a starting clamp. Add that to your budget.

As for mounting - It is very important. You will want to have a good mounting system on your machine.

I much prefer fixed clamps over floating as well.

You are awesome! You have saved me from so much trouble already...

 

[BretH]

I have the Klippermate and while I am sure I would enjoy and appreciate another stringer I don't have any complaints. I take my time and still can do a racquet in an hour or so. Last job I did was all natural gut so I can attest that even a cheap stringer will do the job.

Whatever you decide I have to give the home stringer two thumbs up on concept. I bought mine the first time I had my racquet strung by a shop in town that sold me some super durable Wilson poly 16 gauge at 60 lbs telling me thicker strings were "better for power". After hitting 15 min with it I decided then and there to buy a stringer and learn to do it myself.

I couldn't be happier.

 

[mhkeuns]

I have the Klippermate and while I am sure I would enjoy and appreciate another stringer I don't have any complaints. I take my time and still can do a racquet in an hour or so. Last job I did was all natural gut so I can attest that even a cheap stringer will do the job.

Whatever you decide I have to give the home stringer two thumbs up on concept. I bought mine the first time I had my racquet strung by a shop in town that sold me some super durable Wilson poly 16 gauge at 60 lbs telling me thicker strings were "better for power". After hitting 15 min with it I decided then and there to buy a stringer and learn to do it myself.

I couldn't be happier.

Yeah... If I want to be more serous about improving my game, it only makes sense to string it myself. You must be really skilled at doing things like that. The Klippermate made me feel dumb, which I probably am, and I had to get rid of the thing. Looking forward to string up my first racquet shortly.
How was your first time stringing experience?

 

[athiker]

I have a Klippermate, bought it used off Craigslist for $50 back about 2009 when I wasn't sure how into the sport I would get. Quality and value has been ridiculous, nothing bad to say.

That being said I don't really break strings fast enough to justify upgrading. I also stopped using poly due to shoulder issues from a skiing accident. If could justify it however the number one change from the Klippermate would be fixed clamps. My 2c.

Back when I was trying all kinds of different racquets and strings I came very close to upgrading my stringing machine. Now, I just don't string enough to justify it. Its pretty easy to find a few tennis buddies to string for and make back the money pretty quickly. I've had a number of people ask me. If I enjoyed stringing more or really felt I needed a better machine I would, but haven't. If I had discovered stringing and been into tennis in high school or college I would be all over it as a side business however.

 

[athiker]

One other comment. This message board can teach anyone to string. I barely knew restringing a racquet was possible when I showed up here! There are links to videos and tremendous support for questions re: stringing available for the asking.

 

[Egoista]

Sure. Glad to help.

synthetic: The cheap stuff you are used to.. ie Prince. It hasn't changed much. Although OGSM, Forten, and a few others are better than Prince now a days.

multi: lots of micro strands of synthetic braided together. Acts more like gut than synthetic. Very easy on the arm, mediumish power.

Gut: Exactly what you used to use, although can come with a coating now to extend life. The best volley string.

Poly: All the rage. Comes in a harder "first generation" and a softer "co-poly". Can be smooth, oval, shaped like a sprocket, or twisted, or any combination there of. Great for baseline and big hitters where newer frames generate a ton of power and you need a low power alternative. Also tends to bit the ball more. also has special properties to allow spin which I'll discuss in hybrid.

hybrid: Any combination of 2 different strings. can be a gut/poly, synthetic/poly, ect. The idea is to blend to string types for various attributes. I'll list them:

Baseline with control: Poly mains with a non poly cross. This tends to soften the bed so that you get the big baseline rips with better volley potential than all poly.

Baseline plus: Poly/poly. Looking for a big baseline stroke with all the benefits of a hard poly in the mains and a softer poly in the cross. Soft polies tend to lose tension faster than hards. In this setup the tension loss is offset by having it in the cross.

Ultimate spin: Gut mains/poly crosses. If your frame is not a string breaker, this will yield the most spin. Research has shown that spin (after technique) is mostly developed from the mains sliding across the crosses and snapping back when you make a "windshield wiper" motion on a ground stroke. So, to accentuate this you want the most movement. The above does this by having a low coefficient of friction along with guts amazing elasticity.

I'm cheap, or my stick shreds strings but I still want ultimate-ish, spin: Replace gut with a smooth hard synthetic (OGSM ect). Multi does NOT work here. Not as good as gut, but a fraction of the price. Still works well.

There are dozens of others. These are the main groups.

Hope that helped.

informative posts. Abit confused about your frame string breaker comment.

YOu mean some racq frames tend to enable you breaking strings more often that others?

 

[Egoista]

informative posts. Abit confused about your frame string breaker comment.

YOu mean some racq frames tend to enable you breaking strings more often that others?

I guess there is no answer from anyone on my above question?

Anyone? Anyone

 

[athiker]

I guess there is no answer from anyone on my above question?

Anyone? Anyone

All I've ever read re: this is some feel an more open string pattern allows for more string movement causing strings to wear and break more frequently. Say a 16 x 19 pattern vs an 18 x 20 pattern.

I don't know if there is variety among mfg frames or models with the same string pattern. Grommet design could be a factor I guess. Some raquets are said to be more "spin friendly" than others or maybe need the player to use more spin to keep the ball in play thus may wear through stings faster?

The Babalot Aeropro comes to mind as a spin friendly racquet. So if I use that racquet is it b/c I'm a big topspin hitter and it fits my game?...or do I have to hit big top spin to maintain control with that racquet? If I play the same with that racquet as any other racquet will I break strings faster, slower or the same...I don't know!

I do know hitting bigger topspin goes through strings faster regardless of the racquet.

 

[eelhc]

If could justify it however the number one change from the Klippermate would be fixed clamps. My 2c.

I've had 5 machines thus far... A floating clamp machine (dropweight) and 4 fixed clamp machines (a dropweight, an automatic dropweight and 2 lockouts).

I've used Gamma, Eagnas and Stringway floating clamps but have not used the Klippermate's.

Stringway >>>>>>> Eagnas >>> Gamma

My personal experience that the Stringway triple and double flying clamps are as good as fixed clamps. In fact, they are much better than the ones on low end/entry fixed clamp machines.

If I was purchasing an entry machine, I would go with the following:

1. linear gripper dropweight machine with a ratchet
2. add a starting clamp
3. upgrade to Stringway Triple + Double Clamps

I was able to find used machines easily at considerable savings (usually 2/3 or lower than a cost of a new machine).

Starting clamps and Stringway floating clamps are not available used very often... Folks who have them will keep them.