Waxing Isospeed Control Classic strings

[ashridge]

A while ago I had read some comments on TT about how ISO Classic multi strings were kind of unique and particularly that they were soft/comfy, so I wanted to try some. Also read about needing to wax the mains. So I got some ISO Control (16) Classic and just strung it up in a full bed in my Prince Classic Graphite 100 today. I waxed the mains before starting the crosses, did so with a tube of bowstring wax. Man, that was kind of messy and sticky.

Questions:

1) Is it absolutely necessary to wax the mains, and what purpose does it serve? Is it only necessary in a full bed, or should I wax them in a hybrid with ISO Classic in the crosses (or in the mains)? Should I always wax the mains (no matter what string I'm hybriding with ISO Classic), or is the point to wax the ISO Classic, whether it's in the mains or crosses?

2) Is there a less messy/sticky way to do this than with a tube of bowstring wax?

Thanks!

 

[scotus]

A while ago I had read some comments on TT about how ISO Classic multi strings were kind of unique and particularly that they were soft/comfy, so I wanted to try some. Also read about needing to wax the mains. So I got some ISO Control (16) Classic and just strung it up in a full bed in my Prince Classic Graphite 100 today. I waxed the mains before starting the crosses, did so with a tube of bowstring wax. Man, that was kind of messy and sticky.

Questions:

1) Is it absolutely necessary to wax the mains, and what purpose does it serve? Is it only necessary in a full bed, or should I wax them in a hybrid with ISO Classic in the crosses (or in the mains)? Should I always wax the mains (no matter what string I'm hybriding with ISO Classic), or is the point to wax the ISO Classic, whether it's in the mains or crosses?

2) Is there a less messy/sticky way to do this than with a tube of bowstring wax?

Thanks!

If you find wax messy, don't use it. Isospeed is not natural gut, so such care is not necessary.

If, however, you are inclined to use wax, use much less of it. I get the feeling you are using too much.

I am not a big fan of the string, because I find its softness greatly compromised by its lack of slickness. I find the mains and crosses lock each other up and create a more stiffish string-bed than I would like.

Perhaps that is one reason to wax the mains (or the entire bed after stringing), or you could also use Babolat Elastocross for better string movement and snapback.

 

[ashridge]

Hmmm....interesting. I thought I had read somewhere that these strings actually moved around very *little*. There was someone else on here also who said they used them as a cross for NG mains and the NG mains had good snapback and stayed straight. But almost everything I read about them said you need to wax the mains. I didn't know if that was for durability reasons, performance, or what? I got kind of excited reading about them being a slick cross for NG mains because it would mean having good snapback like Gut/Poly hybrid, but an overall softer stringbed and more comfy on the arm.

 

[Grieeegoorr]

Oh well you've stung your racquet up that way now, have a hit with it and please report back your findings, always interested to hear about a slick cross that will pair well with NG and is not too plasticky, thanks for conducting the experiment.

 

[scotus]

Hmmm....interesting. I thought I had read somewhere that these strings actually moved around very *little*. There was someone else on here also who said they used them as a cross for NG mains and the NG mains had good snapback and stayed straight. But almost everything I read about them said you need to wax the mains. I didn't know if that was for durability reasons, performance, or what? I got kind of excited reading about them being a slick cross for NG mains because it would mean having good snapback like Gut/Poly hybrid, but an overall softer stringbed and more comfy on the arm.

For a slick non-poly cross to gut mains, I would recommend Head Velocity and Ashaway Monogut ZX. I am personally not a big fan of ZX, but it has quite a following here.

 

[ashridge]

Oh well you've stung your racquet up that way now, have a hit with it and please report back your findings, always interested to hear about a slick cross that will pair well with NG and is not too plasticky, thanks for conducting the experiment.

Looks like I may get to play some doubles tonight, so I will be breaking it in if so. I'll report back on performance.

For a slick non-poly cross to gut mains, I would recommend Head Velocity and Ashaway Monogut ZX. I am personally not a big fan of ZX, but it has quite a following here.

I thought of Velocity as a cross for Gut mains, it's on my list of set-ups to try eventually. I've tried Velocity in a full bed and thought as slick as it was when stringing that it would stay straight and snapback good on itself, but I was wrong. The mains were out of place within 5 minutes of hitting the first ball on it. I do like the control and lower power, though.

I've tried ZX Pro in a fullbed and didn't love it. Have thought about it in crosses with Gut mains, I'm just afraid it will shred the Gut quickly. Probably will get around to trying it at some point, I have several sets of ZX Pro that need to be used.

 

[Steve Huff]

I'm not sure who told you to wax these strings, but I'm guessing the guy who did has another great tip coming soon, like buying his "like new" Fiat for the new MSRP since it is an instant classic. Don't wax your strings unless you are using an uncoated natural gut.

 

[ashridge]

I'm not sure who told you to wax these strings, but I'm guessing the guy who did has another great tip coming soon, like buying his "like new" Fiat for the new MSRP since it is an instant classic. Don't wax your strings unless you are using an uncoated natural gut.

Look at the listing for Iso Control Classic 16 right here at Tennis Warehouse, and in the "Product Details" section, it says: "Note: Iso-Speed string is pre-stretched. However, due to the string's unique properties, the manufacturer recommends that stringers increase tension by 10% and wax the mains before installing cross strings".

I've seen reference to it in several other places as well.

 

[Steve Huff]

I wouldn't bother with a string that needed waxing. too many other good strings out there that don't mess up your clamps.

 

[Deleted member 54265]

A while ago I had read some comments on TT about how ISO Classic multi strings were kind of unique and particularly that they were soft/comfy, so I wanted to try some. Also read about needing to wax the mains. So I got some ISO Control (16) Classic and just strung it up in a full bed in my Prince Classic Graphite 100 today. I waxed the mains before starting the crosses, did so with a tube of bowstring wax. Man, that was kind of messy and sticky.

Questions:

1) Is it absolutely necessary to wax the mains, and what purpose does it serve? Is it only necessary in a full bed, or should I wax them in a hybrid with ISO Classic in the crosses (or in the mains)? Should I always wax the mains (no matter what string I'm hybriding with ISO Classic), or is the point to wax the ISO Classic, whether it's in the mains or crosses?

2) Is there a less messy/sticky way to do this than with a tube of bowstring wax?

Thanks!

I have been playing the 17g versions for years, mainly as a cross string with gut. I dont like the 16g so much. 17g much much better playability, 16 g feels kind of dead. Make sure you try the 17g before making your final verdict.

It is a unique string, that does not increase stiffness if you string tighter (unlike any other strings except gut), I think this is one of the reasons that this works so well in a hybrid with gut. In a full bed the string can lock, but not in a gut hybrid. After about 15-20 hours the string will fray and the coating will wear off, I cut the string out and replace with a new iso. I was the mains (gut) when restringing. No need to wax the iso. I use fastfred guitar string wax and it works very well.

I have tried almost everything else as cross string for gut - soft polys, ZX, Velocity, Origin. I have several frames, and always gut / iso in one frame. I have not tried a better combo for my likings.

I string the iso cross string 1 kg higher than the gut main, as the iso will loos a lot of tension initial. Then the string settles and play well for a long time, when the string start to fray (coating wear off) then it is time to restring.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Toby

 

[ashridge]

I have been playing the 17g versions for years, mainly as a cross string with gut. I dont like the 16g so much. 17g much much better playability, 16 g feels kind of dead. Make sure you try the 17g before making your final verdict.

It is a unique string, that does not increase stiffness if you string tighter (unlike any other strings except gut), I think this is one of the reasons that this works so well in a hybrid with gut. In a full bed the string can lock, but not in a gut hybrid. After about 15-20 hours the string will fray and the coating will wear off, I cut the string out and replace with a new iso. I was the mains (gut) when restringing. No need to wax the iso. I use fastfred guitar string wax and it works very well.

I have tried almost everything else as cross string for gut - soft polys, ZX, Velocity, Origin. I have several frames, and always gut / iso in one frame. I have not tried a better combo for my likings.

I string the iso cross string 1 kg higher than the gut main, as the iso will loos a lot of tension initial. Then the string settles and play well for a long time, when the string start to fray (coating wear off) then it is time to restring.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Toby

Thanks Toby, I remember now you were the one who said you used a Gut/Iso hybrid and you wax the mains. Do you feel that waxing the mains increases the durability of the Iso crosses, or increases the snapback period, or what?

I am definitely planning to try a Gut/Iso hybrid once I find the racquet I want to buy and keep. Currently I strung Iso Control up in my back-up racquet, a Prince Classic Graphite 100. I don't want to try Professional Classic (17) in a full bed because I know it wouldn't be durable enough for my topspin game, but I will try it as the crosses in a Gut hybrid. Do I remember correctly that you play that set-up in a Prince TT100p? How long do your Gut mains last before breaking in that set-up, and are you more of a topspin hitter or a flat hitter?

Thanks.

 

[Deleted member 54265]

Thanks Toby, I remember now you were the one who said you used a Gut/Iso hybrid and you wax the mains. Do you feel that waxing the mains increases the durability of the Iso crosses, or increases the snapback period, or what?

I am definitely planning to try a Gut/Iso hybrid once I find the racquet I want to buy and keep. Currently I strung Iso Control up in my back-up racquet, a Prince Classic Graphite 100. I don't want to try Professional Classic (17) in a full bed because I know it wouldn't be durable enough for my topspin game, but I will try it as the crosses in a Gut hybrid. Do I remember correctly that you play that set-up in a Prince TT100p? How long do your Gut mains last before breaking in that set-up, and are you more of a topspin hitter or a flat hitter?

Thanks.

Waxing the gut mains when replacing the crosses gives a little bit of lubricity to the strings, I I kind of think that the gut will last longer - but I am really not sure.

I have the gut / iso professional 17 in a Prince Classic Graphite 100 too, and it works very well. For me the TT100P is just a perfect frame, and I like the open 18x20 stringbed.

Regarding gut breaking (TT100P)- I am not sure anyone believes me, but I dont break gut strings they just last, and I play with a lot of spin and hit hard, and I play on clay, totally the opposite as what I have been told. My crosses Isospeed Professional 17 frays (after about 2-3 weeks of playing) then I replace the cross, wax the main, when the iso starts to fray again I replace the cross once again (gut is still fine) next time the iso frays I cut out the string bed (I guess I could go on, but that is just my way). Gut dont great, I cut it out.

I use Tonic+ 135 (Ball Feel) for gut or Klip or Pasific - Tonic+ seems to have better coating for clay. I dont play when raining, there I play a full bed multi.

In my POG OS that I did play for some years, I did break the gut (around the 2 restring on the cross) but not in the TT100P.

Hope this help.

Cheers, Toby

 

[Rabbit]

The recommendation to wax Isospeed is due to the fact that the string is subject to “burning” when pulling the crosses. You can either pull crosses slowly or wax. I always waxed then using paraffin and didn’t find it too messy or inconvenient.

Good luck.

 

[ashridge]

Waxing the gut mains when replacing the crosses gives a little bit of lubricity to the strings, I I kind of think that the gut will last longer - but I am really not sure.

I have the gut / iso professional 17 in a Prince Classic Graphite 100 too, and it works very well. For me the TT100P is just a perfect frame, and I like the open 18x20 stringbed.

Regarding gut breaking (TT100P)- I am not sure anyone believes me, but I dont break gut strings they just last, and I play with a lot of spin and hit hard, and I play on clay, totally the opposite as what I have been told. My crosses Isospeed Professional 17 frays (after about 2-3 weeks of playing) then I replace the cross, wax the main, when the iso starts to fray again I replace the cross once again (gut is still fine) next time the iso frays I cut out the string bed (I guess I could go on, but that is just my way). Gut dont great, I cut it out.

I use Tonic+ 135 (Ball Feel) for gut or Klip or Pasific - Tonic+ seems to have better coating for clay. I dont play when raining, there I play a full bed multi.

In my POG OS that I did play for some years, I did break the gut (around the 2 restring on the cross) but not in the TT100P.

Hope this help.

Cheers, Toby

Remind me what tension you string your Gut/Iso Pro 17 hybrid at in your TT100p? Have you tried Tonic Longevity before, and if so, did you notice much difference between it and Tonic Ball Feel?

What tension do you have it strung at in your PCG 100?

I recently tried a hybrid of Tonic Longevity (15l) in my PCG 100 with the Gut mains @ 60 and Volkl Classic SynGut crosses at 56. It was too tight, so I cut out the SG crosses and re-strung new ones at 52. Still too tight, so I cut those out and strung up Iso Cream crosses at 45, and it was still too tight, so I came to the conclusion that it was the *Gut* that was too tight. Cut out the whole set-up.

Regarding durability of Gut mains, I have a a Tonic Longevity mains x Solinco Outlast poly crosses hybrid in my Prince Graphite II and the Gut mains are going on close to 20 hours now (I replaced the Outlast crosses once already). They have a moderate amount of fraying, but not much notching, and I'd be surprised if they didn't have another 10 hours of life left in them. It's surprised me how durable they've been. And that's in a racquet with a 14x18 very open string pattern, hitting lots of spin. If it lasts this well in a 14x18 pattern, I can imagine it would last even longer in the 18x20 TT100p.

 

[ashridge]

The recommendation to wax Isospeed is due to the fact that the string is subject to “burning” when pulling the crosses. You can either pull crosses slowly or wax. I always waxed then using paraffin and didn’t find it too messy or inconvenient.

Good luck.

Ok, guess that makes sense, though wouldn't that be the case on a lot of different types of synthetic strings, not just Iso Classic strings?

I don't pull the crosses slow when I'm stringing, but I do use my awl to pull the crosses down to the bottom of the stringbed with one hand while I'm pulling them through (after I've already woven them), so they're not getting friction burn in one spot the whole time I'm pulling them through.

 

[Rabbit]

Ok, guess that makes sense, though wouldn't that be the case on a lot of different types of synthetic strings, not just Iso Classic strings?

No Isospeed is pretty much the only one.

 

[ashridge]

Got to play this morning for about 2 1/2 hours with the Iso Control Classic in a full bed in my PCG 100 @ 50 mains x 47 crosses.

I have mixed feelings about it. For starters, I think the tension was too low. I had big problems controlling the ball today and sailed a bunch not only long, but way long if the contact was even a little bit flat. Only way I could really control the ball was to try and hit massive topspin, and when I did that, I wasn't getting the ball very deep in the opponent's court or I was dumping them in the net. My one handed backhand in particular was having a lot of problems sailing the ball long. It got to the point where I was hitting mostly slices with my backhand so I could try to control the ball better.

Strings snapped back nicely for about an hour then started moving a bit. Nothing compared to SynGut, but they are moving a bit. I did like the feel of the stringbed, very soft and muted, big sweet spot. There was some instability outside the sweet spot, but no vibration. Not sure if that was due more to the racquet or the strings.

Volleys felt very nice, touch/feel shots were good, serve was pretty good, backhand slices were average to good.

Think I'm going to cut out the crosses and replace with something else before I play with this racquet again. Need to tighten up the stringbed a bit for some control. Might put Velocity in the crosses, or a soft poly, we'll see.

 

[ashridge]

Update on the above. I cut out the Iso Control Classic crosses (left in the mains @ 50) and re-strung the crosses with MSV Co-Focus 17 poly at 35 lbs. Played doubles for a few hours indoors a few nights ago with the new set-up. I got noticeably better/easier spin with the poly crosses than Iso Control full bed. Overall set-up was a little more powerful, but easier to control than the Iso full bed because I was getting much easier spin. Was really bombing some 1st serves and getting some serious kick on my 2nd serves. Mains stayed straight for about half an hour and then started moving a bit, though nothing crazy. Going to experiment with Iso Control Classic mains and poly crosses some more, maybe it will turn out to be a cheaper version of Gut/Poly. Want to try it with Velocity in the crosses as well and see what that's like.

 

[Grieeegoorr]

Update on the above. I cut out the Iso Control Classic crosses (left in the mains @ 50) and re-strung the crosses with MSV Co-Focus 17 poly at 35 lbs. Played doubles for a few hours indoors a few nights ago with the new set-up. I got noticeably better/easier spin with the poly crosses than Iso Control full bed. Overall set-up was a little more powerful, but easier to control than the Iso full bed because I was getting much easier spin. Was really bombing some 1st serves and getting some serious kick on my 2nd serves. Mains stayed straight for about half an hour and then started moving a bit, though nothing crazy. Going to experiment with Iso Control Classic mains and poly crosses some more, maybe it will turn out to be a cheaper version of Gut/Poly. Want to try it with Velocity in the crosses as well and see what that's like.

Did you wax the mains again when you restrung the crosses? I'll be interested to hear how the Iso Control Classic mains hold up to the poly.

 

[ashridge]

Did you wax the mains again when you restrung the crosses? I'll be interested to hear how the Iso Control Classic mains hold up to the poly.

No, I did not wax the mains again when re-stringing the crosses. I was playing doubles for 2 hours, so more like an hour or so of hitting if it had been singles. There is some notching on the mains, but less than after an hour of hitting any kind of SynGut I've tried. Also much less than Gamma SynGut 16 that I tried in the mains a few weeks ago with Gamma IO 17 poly in the crosses. The SG mains were so notched after an hour and a half of playing that they were on the verge of breaking. Not a comfortable hit, either. Going to hit with the ISO/MSV again a bit this morning, will see how it looks afterwards.