What are all of these Kimony tools for?

g4driver

Legend
The bottom one (a starting clamp) is essential as a stringer. Most stringers I know have at least two or three. @Rabbit could tell you his thoughts on the best ones. Not necessarily Kimony, but two for sure. The starting block works with a starting clamp to start crosses. There are other things you can use, like a parnell pad.

I've been using three long awls for years to install the most stubborn grommets (namely some Babolat frames). Two hold the bumper guard in place while I work the grommets in. So much easier using three long awls, as you basically secure the guard in place with two long awls, and only deal with the grommets.


 

Rabbit

G.O.A.T.
The Parnell starting clamp is the only one for sale now that's like the old GSS starting clamp. I love mine. I also use the Parnell pad when a starting clamp makes contact with the frame paint and I use the Parnell starting block when starting a multifilament or natural gut. Everything @Richard Parnell sells is quality.

I also have one of the knock off Kimony/Yonex clamps. It's good, but I don't really use it any more (read: I think I lost it). I've not spent a lot of time looking for it because I'm happy enough with the other two main ones I used, the GSS and the RP.
 
The bottom one (a starting clamp) is essential as a stringer. Most stringers I know have at least two or three. @Rabbit could tell you his thoughts on the best ones. Not necessarily Kimony, but two for sure. The starting block works with a starting clamp to start crosses. There are other things you can use, like a parnell pad.

I've been using three long awls for years to install the most stubborn grommets (namely some Babolat frames). Two hold the bumper guard in place while I work the grommets in. So much easier using three long awls, as you basically secure the guard in place with two long awls, and only deal with the grommets.



I have two Gamma starting clamps -- obviously this one is quite a bit different from that one.
 
The bottom one (a starting clamp) is essential as a stringer. Most stringers I know have at least two or three. @Rabbit could tell you his thoughts on the best ones. Not necessarily Kimony, but two for sure. The starting block works with a starting clamp to start crosses. There are other things you can use, like a parnell pad.

I've been using three long awls for years to install the most stubborn grommets (namely some Babolat frames). Two hold the bumper guard in place while I work the grommets in. So much easier using three long awls, as you basically secure the guard in place with two long awls, and only deal with the grommets.


I hadn't thought to use multiple awls to install grommets. It's a real pain in the ass of a job, sometimes.
 

loosegroove

Hall of Fame
I also have one of the knock off Kimony/Yonex clamps. It's good, but I don't really use it any more (read: I think I lost it). I've not spent a lot of time looking for it because I'm happy enough with the other two main ones I used, the GSS and the RP.
Didn’t you actually have two of those, one courtesy of graycrait?
 
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g4driver

Legend
I hadn't thought to use multiple awls to install grommets. It's a real pain in the ass of a job, sometimes.
Truly makes painful bumper guards much easier. Head, Wilson , Yonex are generally so easy I never need them, but placing one awl around 10 o'clock and another at 2 o'clock on some Babolat frames with grommets that don't like being "rolled" into place, makes it a breeze.. just work in grommets gently and remove the placeholder awl as you install.
 

MAX PLY

Hall of Fame
My understanding and experience is as follows:
  • The "short awl" is your typical multi-functional awl--use it to open grommets (before stringing), installing new grommets.
  • The "setting awl" (other companies call it a "setting off awl") is typically used to straighten strings after installation (some stringers, myself included, use a bit of a rapid stabbing motion to make final adjustments to the stringbed that weren't quite right after stringing--not particularly necessary unless you are accustomed to using that method (you can do it with your fingers))
  • The "grommet awl" is basically a textured short awl which you can use to remove a single grommet (rare these days) or is useful to smooth out the string holes on a new wood racquet (even rarer these days)
  • The "long awl" and its cousin, the "curved awl" are very thin awls which I think are designed to be used to assist finding the space to encourage a stubborn string through a difficult hole--often with a little chapstick or wax used as lubricant--similar to, although not as clever as, a pathfinder awl--personally, I have little, if any, use for these as I (i) usually plan ahead and map out the potential difficult holes/grommets (and may use the short hole (with or without lubricant) to assist), (ii) put in a spacer string to reserve the extra space needed or (iii) use a "string awl" (usually a sharpened piece of stiff poly scrap) with a little lubricant if need be. I rarely think it's a good idea to use a metal awl in a grommet hole already containing a string under tension (and especially softer strings--e.g., gut, high quality multis).
Actually, none of my awls are the Kimony ones (but I have friends who do have them and I do own some other Kimony tools--very high quality).

For the average stringer, I would think a short awl or two should suffice--for the uses mentioned above. I mostly use them for installing grommets. I use my setting off awl all of the time--but that's just a learned technique that I find useful.
 

Rabbit

G.O.A.T.
@MAX PLY - I have a Kimony awl, the short one. I like it very much. It has a rounded/blunt end which makes it safe to use in a hole that already has a string passed through.
 
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