This works for Prince Ported frames when doing crosses. You don't need a brake when you do it this way. Tension is very similar to top down crosses if you pull long enough to overcome inter string friction. If you clamp quickly or use a LO, then the mains and earlier crosses in the middle have a chance to relax - lower tension. This will be offset when you start to add more crosses. Eventually, the tension will get back to or approach ref tension. At that point, whether you do crosses top down or middle up/down, the tension should be about the same. The manner to find out is to measure the length of the frame before an after stringing, doing it the traditional way or your innovative way.
Thanks esgee48 for the good advice...much appreciated
I might try measuring length of the racket and width of the frame at several points before and after.
With my 6 point stringer, as you explained earlier, the 6 & 12 won't prevent elongation because they're designed to minimise contraction. The additional 4 points should also help by preventing the frame widening. After I string the mains, I imagine that 4 side points will be applying pressure against the frame to compensate for any shortening of the frame. Then as I continue to string the crosses, the pressure should normalise and take some of the pressure back off the side clamps so that the frame retains its original shape once it's unclamped.
Is that basically how it works?
I imagine there is the potential for more frame distortion with a 2 point machine?
How tight should I adjust the 6 points?
I usually start with the 12 & 6, then make sure the other 4 are tightened softly against the frame, then I tighten 6&12 then the other 4 a bit more until each point is reasonably tight.
Does it make a difference?