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A crank machine is more complex than a drop weight. The tension head has quite a few parts and needs to be well built to maintain accuracy. In contrast, a drop weight's tension head is quite simple. Some have a ratcheting mechanism or clutch, but they are still relatively simple. Also, most...

The gripper on my Wise tension head never crushes the string. You just have to make sure the gripper plates are clean and that the tension on them is adjusted properly for the string you're using.

If he untied the knot, I doubt he'd have enough string left to reach the tension head without using the starting clamp as a string extender. That's fine if he has two starting clamps. I think I'd just leave it if it was my racquet and count it as a lesson learned, but if it was for someone else...

As far as the tension head, you're comparing apples to oranges. The Gamma has a rotating tension head, which requires more string and you can get caught short on the last string because you don't have enough string left to wrap around the head. You may also run into complications with using a...

I had an ATS Traveler(my first machine) and it was a solidly built machine. It's built to be broken down and carried to different sites. The ATS Superstring II was the equivalent machine at the time and is very similar to the X-2, although built out of steel instead of aluminum. If...

LP, I've been on the TW and GSS boards for a long time and I don't recall ever seeing a post about a conversion from glide bar to swivel clamps. You might be able to salvage the stand, but the turntable and clamps would have to be swapped out and perhaps the frame supports as well. The bushing...

Based on the turntable and the spring assisted clamps, the Combo 910 is the way to go, IMO. The only caveat being it's an Eagnas machine and you have to live with all that brings with it.

I agree with looking at the thread that Burghking mentioned. This is a somewhat subjective issue and a lot depends on how much you want to spend. But, if you're just starting out and don't really know if you'll continue stringing and enjoy it the best way to go, IMO, is with a drop weight...

As far as I'm concerned, the boomerang tool is a PITA. I just lock the turntable when I need to and string away.

I've never used ALU Rough, but the regular ALU Power 16L is my favorite poly string and also some of my customers. I've not experienced a drop off in performance after just a couple of playing sessions and my customers haven't complained of it either. In fact, one of them likes the way it feels...

LUX ALU Power 16L...by far my favorite poly for lack of string movement and playability. Combined with NG in a hybrid this is my favorite string job.

There's no absolute rule of thumb on this. In the USRSA string testing data there is some percentage of strings(as high as 40% as I recall) that is stiffer in a 17g vs a 16g gauge. As a general rule, a less stiff string will compress the ball less and leave more energy in it for the shot...

Stan, you lost me on this :-). The crosses lose tension when pulled because of friction with the mains and the further down the string bed the more tension is lost as the stagger in the mains increases and the string bed stiffness increases. They aren't going to retain more than the 60# set...

I don't think you're going to eliminate this by using a starting clamp. I recall some past discussions about this, but can't remember the specifics about the methods used to get around this. It seems like Klippermate uses what they call a "starting pin" to help with this. You might look at their...

There is some instructional material on stringforum.net. However, I'd suggest joining the USRSA. The membership includes a copy of their stringing guide and racquet string patterns.

There isn't any real difference, in my experience and with those that I string for. However, for the purest, there are some differences. For instance, with a two piece job you'll have the bottom cross(assuming you string the crosses top down) and two outside mains that will have less tension on...

Not to worry with a synthetic string. Different story with NG. Heat is the worst enemy of any string. It's not a good idea to leave your racquets inside a hot car. The temp can reach 140o or more.

IMO, the advantage of a multi over a poly is comfort and feel. It's also more arm friendly, so as you said, if you can control it, by all means use the multi.

You could do a heck of a lot worse for your first machine than with either of these. Having the foot pedal frees your hands up for other tasks. I think Diredesire covered all of the points from an experienced users perspective on the Gamma machine. The REVO 4K has an excellent reputation among...

I'd recommend the Gamma X-2 to start with(it's relatively easy to string on because of the ratcheting string gripper) and also a membership to the USRSA so you get their stringing how-to manual and access to all of the string patterns for the hundreds of models of racquets that are out there...

Ditto what Eagle said. Well worth the investment. It's an inexpensive tool with many uses. I often use it to make a tie off grommet out of a normal grommet when I run in to one that is split, but the rest of the BG/grommet strips are o.k. I just cut out the damaged one with a grommet grinder...

I'm not a big believer in pre-stretching. In my mind, all it does is increase the string bed stiffness which some people interpret as reducing initial tension loss. If someone insists(very rarely), I do it, but otherwise I only do it on strings that have very high coil memory like LUX ALU Power...

888, as I recall, the Revo 4k retails for around $549. I have no connection with Alpha other than owning one of their machines, so you'd need to double ck with them. On the Neos, I think these are almost a matter of personal taste or lack of for 2 pt mount, glide bar machines. The Neos is very...

Bret, I thought he'd already tried all of the tension adjustments and still couldn't get it close. That's why I suggested he might need a new spring. Sorry for any confusion. Glad to hear Gamma's machines are made with springs that are meant to never need changing and that the high-low tension...

I've had one for several years on my Alpha Apex. It' been very reliable and it's a great way to get accurate constant pull tensioning on an existing crank machine. One of the best and least expensive set-ups has been the Alpha Revo 4K with the Wise 2086 head if you don't already have a machine...

This sounds like an inexperienced stringer at work. You have to check the twist of the string while you're weaving the crosses when stringing NG to make sure that when you push the string through the near side hole and pull out enough string to reach the other side and start weaving that you...

No experience with the electric rotational grippers, but one word of caution before buying one. Not all the models have the same accuracy. If they use a spring to set and detect the tension, they may have to see a large tension drop before they re-pull. One of the signs of this is an adjustment...

I'd also suggest a hybrid using NG mains and synthetic crosses given that you like the playability of NG so much. You might want to try Klip Legend NG in the mains and Excellerator in the crosses. I you do this you'll reduce your cost to about $19 per job for the strings and have most of the...

That's good news. I suggested that your tension head might need a new spring because I thought you'd already tried to set the calibration on the tension head and couldn't get it close. BTW, on it being off at lower tensions, this is a common effect on sprint tension machines. It's not unusual to...

Paul, plz clarify for me...are you saying you weave and tension the strings on only half of the frameA(the short side), then do the 1st two crosses, then weave and tension the mains on the long side and then the rest of the crosses? Doesn't this put the frame under a tremendous imbalance of...