Adding silicone to buttcap/hairpin (best way)

[philbhp]

Please share your experience/advice for adding silicone to a buttcap/hairpin.

I am considering two methods and I would like your feedback/advantages/disadvantages etc.

Method #1 - Add silicone to hairpin chambers (both) by first creating a cotton dam and then stapling buttcap on

Method #2 - Add silicone to buttcap (like filling a cup/bowl) and then insert handle into buttcap and let dry (no staples)

Note: I do not care about how easy it is to remove buttcap once the silicone has dried. I have plenty of replacement buttcaps.

Thanks,

P

 

[StringingIrvine]

I've only done the silicone with a cotton damn and found it to be fairly easy if you are good at do it yourself stuff. I tested it on a older racket I no longer use but i'm currently using blue tack and I like it a lot better. The application process with silicone wasn't that hard but the worry of the cotton dam not catching all the silicone and waiting for the drying time can all be avoided.

I can't directly compare it to silicone to blu tack in dampening effects as i have them in different rackets with different feels. I'd highly recommend taking a look at the putty alternative. I know TW racket customization guy uses tungsten putty which is a bit stickier and heavier than blu tack but more expensive.

Its just so easy to apply with no dry times. Its also easier to measure out the weight. I've had blu tack putty in my racket for 3 months and I check every time I restring to make sure it is hasn't moved. No movement so far.

Just google Blu-Tack.

 

[ChicagoJack]

Hmm, something seems not quite right with how you are envisioning your #2 method.

1. Silicone isn't going to replace staples. It won't create a secure bond btwn the cap and the pallet. Maybe you are thinking that it's like epoxy?

2. If you "fill up the cap like a bowl" and then attach it to the pallet, one of two things will probably happen. Either the silicone will squish down into to the chamber, because there really is not much space btwn the cap and the pallet. Or, if the silicone is dry, it will prevent the cap from fitting on the end completely. You will be, essentially adding length to your frame by sliding the buttcap down the pallet.

-Jack

 

[philbhp]

I've only done the silicone with a cotton damn and found it to be fairly easy if you are good at do it yourself stuff. I tested it on a older racket I no longer use but i'm currently using blue tack and I like it a lot better. The application process with silicone wasn't that hard but the worry of the cotton dam not catching all the silicone and waiting for the drying time can all be avoided.

I can't directly compare it to silicone to blu tack in dampening effects as i have them in different rackets with different feels. I'd highly recommend taking a look at the putty alternative. I know TW racket customization guy uses tungsten putty which is a bit stickier and heavier than blu tack but more expensive.

Its just so easy to apply with no dry times. Its also easier to measure out the weight. I've had blu tack putty in my racket for 3 months and I check every time I restring to make sure it is hasn't moved. No movement so far.

Just google Blu-Tack.

Thanks for the tip. I bought a generic of blu tack at CVS and I am planning on using it if the silicone does not work out.

 

[philbhp]

Hmm, something seems not quite right with how you are envisioning your #2 method.

1. Silicone isn't going to replace staples. It won't create a secure bond btwn the cap and the pallet. Maybe you are thinking that it's like epoxy?

2. If you "fill up the cap like a bowl" and then attach it to the pallet, one of two things will probably happen. Either the silicone will squish down into to the chamber, because there really is not much space btwn the cap and the pallet. Or, if the silicone is dry, it will prevent the cap from fitting on the end completely. You will be, essentially adding length to your frame by sliding the buttcap down the pallet.

-Jack

Ok you are validating some potential issues I was wondering about. Do you foresee any problems if I push the pallet so that the silicone enters the chambers and then staple? This will (hopefully) also eliminate the problem of lengthening the racquet. I will then keep the racquet buttcap down (head up) so the silicone does not drip down the handle/into the layup while it dries.

 

[ChicagoJack]

Ok you are validating some potential issues I was wondering about. Do you foresee any problems if I push the pallet so that the silicone enters the chambers and then staple? This will (hopefully) also eliminate the problem of lengthening the racquet. I will then keep the racquet buttcap down (head up) so the silicone does not drip down the handle/into the layup while it dries.

Hi Phil,

Yeah, I see what you have in mind but, there's really no advantage at all to filling the buttcap with silicone first. If you put it there, its either going to squish back out to the outside of the pallet leaving a big mess to clean up, or its going to be forced back down the chambers in the center. You are much better off going with the cotton dam method you've suggested, just squirt the silicone down the chamber, it's much easier to control this way.

If this is your first attempt at tail weighting, you might try something easily removed first. (see photos below) Blue tac, folded up lead covered with old grip tape, fishing weights, whatever. Something just to get the feel of the weight down there first, and to give yourself some experimentation time. One you get something you like, then weigh that, and replace with silicone. A good approximation is 10-12 grams for every inch of silicone, but weigh as you go. Many times I will stash some lead in the pallet, just to give the player something to hit with, just to get a sense of how much tail weight is needed. Sometimes they like the lead in there so much that they don't give me the racquet back and I never get to swap out it out for the silicone. Just make sure that it's snug, but leave a few edges of wrap exposed so you can yank it out if needed.



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[ChicagoJack]

If you are going to fill more than 1 or 2 inches of the chamber with silicone I would recco taking a look at a previous post of mine below:

Hi Shroud,

Yeah that can be frustrating at times. Pressure builds and the silicone starts to squish back out of the top. If you are trying to fill the entire pallet, I would try the credit card method I suggested a while back. http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?p=7647905&highlig ht=shroud#post7647905 I cant really see from your photo if that is what you have tried here? Is that blue stuff tape? I just press with my off hand to create the seal. Perhaps the tape alone is not sufficient to create a good seal?

Here's the method I described: Take an old credit card and cut a semi circle about the size of the tip on one edge. Place the tip into a corner of the pallet and place the card against the tip. Now you've got the top sealed. Now when you squeeze the trigger on the applicator, pressure will build, and the silicone has nowhere to go but down. If you have a C - clamp to hold the pallet in place while you are working, that really helps, as you need one hand for the card, and the other on the applicator. It's a bit more awkward, but if you don't have a c-clamp you can secure the racquet between your knees. This technique is basically just creating pressure, and you can create lots of it this way. So be super careful not to blow out the bottom of your cotton dam. If that happens, you might fill up the whole pallet and just keep right on going, filling up the frame as well. I know it can be frustrating. Most important thing is to work calmly and patiently.


1. Cut a slot about the width of the tip. I've used an expired USTA card. See below


2. Use an applicator gun. Don't try this with the silicone tubes you squeeze by hand. Pressure will not be sufficient. See below.


3. Silicone placed into applicator gun. See below.


4. Build a cotton dam to desired depth. See below.

 

[ChicagoJack]

Copy and paste from an earlier thread...

Some Pallets have dual chambers like this one below, some are singles like the one above... but either way, figure about 10-12 grams for every inch. Since most pallets are 7-8 inches long, If you only added 29 grams you've likely filled about 4/10ths of the length.


Once the cap is off (its on in the photo), then place the tip into a corner of the pallet, and place the card over the top. See below.

 

[Hi I'm Ray]

I get 1 or 2 cotton balls, tie a twine around it, compress it & shove it down the chamber, leaving the twine hanging out. I get fast drying silicone and dry it in cubes, cut it to size for a tight fit, and shove it down the chamber with the cotton plug, pack the twine in there and cap it. If the silicone is too much or located too high in the handle, just pull on the twine and pop it out. I've had to remove the silicone a few times while making adjustments, but this way its easy.

 

[philbhp]

Hi Phil,

Yeah, I see what you have in mind but, there's really no advantage at all to filling the buttcap with silicone first. If you put it there, its either going to squish back out to the outside of the pallet leaving a big mess to clean up, or its going to be forced back down the chambers in the center. You are much better off going with the cotton dam method you've suggested, just squirt the silicone down the chamber, it's much easier to control this way.

If this is your first attempt at tail weighting, you might try something easily removed first. (see photos below) Blue tac, folded up lead covered with old grip tape, fishing weights, whatever. Something just to get the feel of the weight down there first, and to give yourself some experimentation time. One you get something you like, then weigh that, and replace with silicone. A good approximation is 10-12 grams for every inch of silicone, but weigh as you go. Many times I will stash some lead in the pallet, just to give the player something to hit with, just to get a sense of how much tail weight is needed. Sometimes they like the lead in there so much that they don't give me the racquet back and I never get to swap out it out for the silicone. Just make sure that it's snug, but leave a few edges of wrap exposed so you can yank it out if needed.



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Thank you. I have seen this before when searching the threads actually. Very much appreciated.

I have tail weighted before, but never with silicone. Currently I have 10 grams of high density lead tape wrapped around the bottom of my pallet underneath the replacement grip. I want to replace the lead tape with silicone to get the added vibration dampening effect. FYI, I have 10 grams of lead under my bumper as well. This setup is 345 grams with a 4 pt HL balance. It made an average racquet into a monster!

 

[philbhp]

I get 1 or 2 cotton balls, tie a twine around it, compress it & shove it down the chamber, leaving the twine hanging out. I get fast drying silicone and dry it in cubes, cut it to size for a tight fit, and shove it down the chamber with the cotton plug, pack the twine in there and cap it. If the silicone is too much or located too high in the handle, just pull on the twine and pop it out. I've had to remove the silicone a few times while making adjustments, but this way its easy.

Thank you. Seems like this is best trial and error method. As opposed to filling chambers with silicone and then removing altogether if the weight/balance is not correct.