Alpha Pioneer DC Plus

[kabrac]

New to stringing. Thinking of getting the Alpha Pioneer DC Plus and later upgrading it with the Wise 2086 like some on here have done.

I use prince racquets with the o holes (03 hybrid tour, ex03 black team).

Would this be a good machine to use as I know these Prince racquets are somewhat tricky to string.

Basically, has anyone used this machine to string Prince racquets with the o holes?

Other thoughts on the machine. Do you order it from their website or call them or find a dealer?

 

[kabrac]

Also, any benefits of having glidebar clamps vs. fixed swivel clamps?

 

[gotwheels]

kabrac, The Alpha Pioneer DC Plus is a solid, reasonably priced drop-weight stringer. The mounting system is solid, the clamps are good, and you have a linear gripper, with a ratcheting clutch. The build is solid and the stringer will perform and last for a long time. The best part is the service and support you will receive from the Alpha team (call and/or newtechtennis dot com). If you think you will be serious about stringing, I would recommend you, also, get their starting clamp.

The Alpha Pioneer DC Plus's quasi-break is not adequate for locked table Prince port style frame stringing (the same with many stringers). For the Prince port style frames,I would rcommend the GSS home fabricated accessory, the modified "S" hook, or the 50/50 cross stringing pattern (and only if you alternate head/throat cross stringing with the 50/50 pattern or it is not really any better for the frame than stringing crosses from throat to head; this is why I recommend the starting clamp). The Prince boomerang tool can, also, be used.

Clamp style is your preference. Most newer machines use double action swivel clamps because of their flexibility of use in stringing. A good glide bar system is fast and efficient, just not as flexible in use.

If the budget allows, take a look at the Stringway products (sold through Alpha/newtech). They are unique and well constructed. Their entry level product with the Stringway double and triple flying clamps will produce high quality string jobs.

 

[kabrac]

Can't I just buy some different clamps. I see alot of people like the 3 vs. the 5 jaw clamps. Why is this? Isn't more better? Does the triple give you a more clean job?

Please explain...

 

[gotwheels]

kabrac, I am not sure what your clamp question is. The supplied 5 tooth swivel, fixed clamps (I am assuming this is the supplied clamp) are very adequate. The Stringway triple clamp I referenced is a flying clamp.

I recommend that you speak with Alpha. Also, search in the post archives and you can probably answer most of your questions.

Good luck!

 

[kabrac]

You answered my questions....Thank You.

 

[oldcity]

I just got mine two weeks. ago. They are solid. I don't know about the wise upgrade or prince port. I have a pure storm. here a pic of the alpha pioneer dc plus as it came out of the box.

 

[oldcity]

I just got mine two weeks. ago. They are solid. I don't know about the wise upgrade or prince port. I have a pure storm. here a pic of the alpha pioneer dc plus as it came out of the box.

that didn't work...how 'bout this one....

[/IMG]

 

[kabrac]

Where did you get that one?

Does it set-up easy out of the box?

How impressed are you with it's results?

 

[kabrac]

Also, is there a locking mechanism or is that just on the table tops?

 

[oldcity]

I got it at newtechtennis. great price for what you get. comes with string, tools, an instructional dvd and manual. you can specify what string you want too. its a table top model. no brakes or anything.
it comes out of the box like this and you have to spend a whole 5 minutes dropping the mounts in place and a couple other odds and ends. thats it.
I later ordered a starting clamp. everything is solid and nice quality. nothing cheap looking or flimsy. i've only had it two weeks so only one string job so far.
My first job took just over 2hrs which is normal for all machines. i was about to tie off the mains, all excited and then noticed the clamps were slipping. had to adjust clamp tension and start over. made a few more mistakes but by the end i was gaining some proficiency with the machine. it was fun too. I might do another tonight during Spartacus. I see no problem getting under an hour after a few jobs and down around a half hour when you get good at it.

 

[kabrac]

Thanks for your replys. I'll be ordering mine soon.

 

[Xpherex]

I just got mine two weeks. ago. They are solid. I don't know about the wise upgrade or prince port. I have a pure storm. here a pic of the alpha pioneer dc plus as it came out of the box.

that didn't work...how 'bout this one....

[/IMG]

Looks like Pro's Pro Challenger which I have bought not that long ago. The only difference I can see from the picture is that there was no manual

 

[hornfan75]

I got my Pioneer DC Plus last year and use it to string my Prince EXO3 racquets. I use a 50/50 sting job to account for the port issues. The prince website has sting pattern guides and I've just marked the starting point on the racquet that provides the best stringing result (string up against the frame/port instead of floating in the port). The pictures above are a good representation, it's an easy setup and comes with a video made by a familiar stringer (assuming you've watched any youtube videos). I also found a great/inexpensive stand for mine. It's the perfect size, sturdy, rolls nicely and is made of wood so it looks decent in the house. PM me if you'd like a link to the stand I'm using (I looked for a while).

 

[kabrac]

I got my Pioneer DC Plus last year and use it to string my Prince EXO3 racquets. I use a 50/50 sting job to account for the port issues. The prince website has sting pattern guides and I've just marked the starting point on the racquet that provides the best stringing result (string up against the frame/port instead of floating in the port). The pictures above are a good representation, it's an easy setup and comes with a video made by a familiar stringer (assuming you've watched any youtube videos). I also found a great/inexpensive stand for mine. It's the perfect size, sturdy, rolls nicely and is made of wood so it looks decent in the house. PM me if you'd like a link to the stand I'm using (I looked for a while).

What do you mean by floating in the port. I'm new to this although I have watched alot of Irvin's videos on youtube.

 

[Irvin]

What do you mean by floating in the port. I'm new to this although I have watched alot of Irvin's videos on youtube.

When you string a racket the string from the tensioner to the racket will always be a straight line toward the pivot point on the turntable. When stringing Prince rackets the cross were designed to be strung from the top to the bottom of the racket. The cross strings will always go into the bottom of the O Port from inside the racket and in the top of the O Port on the outside of the racket.

In the O Ports above the turntable pivot point the tensioner will be above the pivot point and the tensioner pulls the string to the top of the O Port (Should always be in the bottom of the port.) So there is the problem you need to find some way to turn the process around (2 piece 50/50 stringing from the center up and down) or use a tool to hold the string in the proper position.

When you get near the center of the racket it is possible the port will be on teh line from the tensioner to the pivot point. If that happens your string will float in the center of the port.

 

[oldcity]

I did my second string job. Took 5 minutes longer than the first. I thought I'd try a full bed of the alpha sphere. At first I thought it was a gag string.It seemed to stretch for an eternity. Took took 4-5drops to get tension right. It slipped out of the gripper a few times and out of the clamps too. The coating peeled off and finally had to junk half and start over. It's got some kind of rectangular coating on it. I had half sphere and figured I'd try a hybrid with vengence poly. Had to tighten the clamps a little anh be careful on the gripper with the sphere.
The other thing about dropweights you learn is the different strings have wildly different stretching. the poly didn't stretch at all. Took some time to figure out where to start the gripper but after that the poly went surprisingly quick. Another learning experience!
Irvin, I,d love to see a diagram on making a dropweight an auto.

 

[jwardb]

I have this machine and use it to string for myself and a few friends and loved ones. None of play with the Prince O ports so I can't help you with that. The Pioneer DC Plus is terrific, as is the customer service from Alpha. No complaints.

I would echo one of the comments above though about the starting clamp. That will make things much easier, especially with certain string types.

 

[kabrac]

Got the machine yesterday, setup wasn't hard. I think Alpha should put a marker as to where the gripper should be positioned after each pull, no problem though, as I just got a sharpie and marked a line.

After 5 hours, 10:00 p.m./3:00 a.m., I am tired. The Prince ports didn't give me any problems whatsoever other than I started the crosses at the middle and I'm not sure I'll ever do it that way again, Although I do see the pros of using that method, just took too long. Had knot troubles so I just tied my own knot. Hopefully the time it takes will go down considerably.

I was more tired after this 5 hr. string job than a 5hr./5 setter on court, on the hottest day of the year!!!

 

[Xpherex]

Got the machine yesterday, setup wasn't hard. I think Alpha should put a marker as to where the gripper should be positioned after each pull, no problem though, as I just got a sharpie and marked a line.

could you make a picture where the string gripper should be, please as I find my string gripper eating a string a bit, sometimes.

 

[kabrac]

could you make a picture where the string gripper should be, please as I find my string gripper eating a string a bit, sometimes.

Make sure it is in the 1 o'clock position, then get a marker or whatever and draw a line UNDER the string gripper.

I'll see if I can get a picture, but just rotate the string gripper to the 1 o'clock position, take a sharpie and mark a line all the way across to the weighted clutch so that every time you adjust it, all you have to do is make sure your lines line up together. Simple.

 

[Xpherex]

Make sure it is in the 1 o'clock position, then get a marker or whatever and draw a line UNDER the string gripper.

I'll see if I can get a picture, but just rotate the string gripper to the 1 o'clock position, take a sharpie and mark a line all the way across to the weighted clutch so that every time you adjust it, all you have to do is make sure your lines line up together. Simple.

isn't it too high? I usually get it to 3-4 o'clock because otherwise I do not know how the string gripper will pull the string itself. What type of string have you strung your racket? and did you have a feel that the gripper scratches the string sometimes?

 

[KoaUka]

I don't think the "exact" position of the string gripper is really that important. Cause it can also vary depending on what type of string your using (poly/synthetic/etc.) So far with my Alpha, I've been raising the bar to 12 o'clock (that moves the gripper from 1 o'clock to about 3 o'clock or so), set the string in the gripper, then lower the bar slowly. For poly, I lower the bar past 12, set the string, raise the bar and lower slowly. So for the poly I set the gripper a little higher than 1. Pretty much going by feel the whole time.

Does this make sense? Or am I doing it wrong?

 

[oldcity]

I don't think the "exact" position of the string gripper is really that important. Cause it can also vary depending on what type of string your using (poly/synthetic/etc.) So far with my Alpha, I've been raising the bar to 12 o'clock (that moves the gripper from 1 o'clock to about 3 o'clock or so), set the string in the gripper, then lower the bar slowly. For poly, I lower the bar past 12, set the string, raise the bar and lower slowly. So for the poly I set the gripper a little higher than 1. Pretty much going by feel the whole time.

Does this make sense? Or am I doing it wrong?

that what i've found in my limited experience. with the bar straight up, i put the string in about 3o'clock position. better you have to lift the bar again than start over because it didn't go down far enough. poly was way different. with bar straight up i was having to move the gripper down to 5o'clock . its going to be a little rough the first couple times while you figure things out.

 

[kabrac]

I just strung some Luxilon Big Banger Timo 18 and it kept stretching, so yeah, I'd move the gripper up to about 1 o'clock, tilt the weight bar back to the 1 o'clock, put the string in the gripper and string. It usually took about 3 times to finagle with the bar to get it at level. Also, strings that have a slimy coat will also do this. No big deal. Basically, the weight bar and the string gripper should look like the letter L when you have it in the right position.

 

[kabrac]

I don't think the "exact" position of the string gripper is really that important. Cause it can also vary depending on what type of string your using (poly/synthetic/etc.) So far with my Alpha, I've been raising the bar to 12 o'clock (that moves the gripper from 1 o'clock to about 3 o'clock or so), set the string in the gripper, then lower the bar slowly. For poly, I lower the bar past 12, set the string, raise the bar and lower slowly. So for the poly I set the gripper a little higher than 1. Pretty much going by feel the whole time.

Does this make sense? Or am I doing it wrong?

I think you're right. This is what I've been doing.

 

[mixedmedia]

I got my Pioneer DC Plus last year and use it to string my Prince EXO3 racquets. I use a 50/50 sting job to account for the port issues. The prince website has sting pattern guides and I've just marked the starting point on the racquet that provides the best stringing result (string up against the frame/port instead of floating in the port). The pictures above are a good representation, it's an easy setup and comes with a video made by a familiar stringer (assuming you've watched any youtube videos). I also found a great/inexpensive stand for mine. It's the perfect size, sturdy, rolls nicely and is made of wood so it looks decent in the house. PM me if you'd like a link to the stand I'm using (I looked for a while).

Tried to PM you but wasn't able to send the email. It seems you have that disabled.

 

[kabrac]

Okay, so I been using this and would like to upgrade to an electric (Gamma 6900 6pt), but have also looked at the Neos 1000 and 1500 and maybe a Wise, or do you think it's best and upgrade to the electric Gamma 6900? There are already numerous things I don't like about a dropweight tabletop and wish I would have gotten a stand-up stringer instead and would like to string faster and have true full 360 dergree rotation.

I like to string ATW, so the NEOS 1000 might be out as you will have to switch back/forth the NEOS glide bar system and I want a constant pull, so I'd like to get the Gamma 6900, or is this a lower end electric and would be better getting the NEOS 1500 with the Wise. It would be about the same cost to get either.

Thoughts? My max budget is the $1899 for the Gamma, so no reccomendations for Babolat or Tecnifibre, although I see myself getting one of these much later. Would the NEOS w/ Wiser hold it's value better than the Gamma 6900 if I wanted to upgrade later?

 

[tennytive]

I have the previous model, the DC. (green, not blue)

I start with the bar in the down position. The gripper is set to horizontal (9-3 o'clock). I wrap the string twice around the gripper, then through the slot, then while holding the gripper in place, raise the bar somewhere between 11 and 1 o'clock and slowly lower it down as I release my hold on the gripper.

Mains, the bar is usually started closer to 11, crosses, noon to 1. The bar usually rests horizontal after the drop or is slightly lower.

Since starting with the bar in the down position I haven't had as many problems with having to release the string due to the bar not reaching horizontal and having to start over.

Something you may want to try/consider if you're still having trouble getting a consistent drop. It's been working for me.

 

[Xpherex]

Make sure it is in the 1 o'clock position, then get a marker or whatever and draw a line UNDER the string gripper.

I'll see if I can get a picture, but just rotate the string gripper to the 1 o'clock position, take a sharpie and mark a line all the way across to the weighted clutch so that every time you adjust it, all you have to do is make sure your lines line up together. Simple.

I don't really get how the gripper hold the string at 1 o'clock, do you go one time around and then put it in the string gripper

 

[kabrac]

I don't really get how the gripper hold the string at 1 o'clock, do you go one time around and then put it in the string gripper

IT won't. This is how I do it, YOU DON'T HAVE TO.

(FOR RIGHT HANDERS)

Make sure gripper is in the 1 o'clock position.

With your right hand holding the gripper and string, and your left hand holding the tension arm, Raise the tension arm to 12 o'clock and turn the string gripper to the 3 o'clock position.

Put string in gripper and lower tension arm until it stays level (DO NOT PULL THE BAR UP MORE THAN 3 TIMES TO GET IT LEVEL OR THE STRING GRIPPER WILL ROTATE ALL THE WAY AROUND AND PULL THE STRING OUT OF THE GRIPPER AND WILL THEN CAUSE THE TENSION BAR TO SLAM DOWN).

Tension string then clamp your string.

With your thumb, push the paddle level under the tension bar and bring the tension bar bck up.

THEN ROTATE THE STRING GRIPPER ALL THE WAY AROUND (IN A CLOCKWISE MOTION) UNTIL IT IS IN THE 1 O'CLOCK POSITION.

Repeate above steps for each string you tension.

 

[KoaUka]

I don't really get how the gripper hold the string at 1 o'clock, do you go one time around and then put it in the string gripper

You don't wrap it around the gripper. Just insert the string into the slot, as you begin to lower the bar, the gripper will clamp down on the string. So you have to kinda help it get started. Once the gripper is clamped on the string, you're good to go.

Just watch Yulitle's video that comes w/ the machine.

 

[Doulers]

Got the machine yesterday, setup wasn't hard. I think Alpha should put a marker as to where the gripper should be positioned after each pull, no problem though, as I just got a sharpie and marked a line.

After 5 hours, 10:00 p.m./3:00 a.m., I am tired. The Prince ports didn't give me any problems whatsoever other than I started the crosses at the middle and I'm not sure I'll ever do it that way again, Although I do see the pros of using that method, just took too long. Had knot troubles so I just tied my own knot. Hopefully the time it takes will go down considerably.

I was more tired after this 5 hr. string job than a 5hr./5 setter on court, on the hottest day of the year!!!

Don't worry, you will get better and it gets faster with more practice. I bought an Alpha Pioneer DC Plus in 2009 and first time stringing took me like 3 to 4 hours because I was learning as I went. Would watch the YULitle videos on YouTube to learn. Now I can do my racquet in about an hour. Love the machine. Very well made and service with Mark Gonzalez at Alpha is second to none. I am not a particularly mechanically gifted person, but I was able to figure out how to use the machine and get faster with it. The one thing that still slows me down a bit is just weaving the cross strings. Doing all the mains takes 15 to 20 minutes tops. I also used to have trouble getting strings through blocked grommet holes but have gotten much faster doing that after watching YULitle's video on it. I don't even need to use the Chapstick anymore! The more you string, the faster you will get.

 

[MisterP]

Has anyone had any problems with the clamps on their Alpha Pioneer DC Plus? I have to adjust the clamps so tight that they pinch the string to the point that I'm concerned about durability. I'll post a picture later. I'm not sure if there was some sort of rough coating in the clamps that has worn off or what.

 

[illzoni]

I'm at 153 string jobs and haven't had that problem.

 

[Irvin]

Has anyone had any problems with the clamps on their Alpha Pioneer DC Plus? I have to adjust the clamps so tight that they pinch the string to the point that I'm concerned about durability. I'll post a picture later. I'm not sure if there was some sort of rough coating in the clamps that has worn off or what.

Clean you clamps

 

[MAX PLY]

Agree with Irvin . . . I suspect it is a dirty clamp issue. Alcohol (I prefer denatured but rubbing alcohol will work) should suffice. Good luck.

 

[MisterP]

Clean you clamps

I did do that already. Someone suggested taking an emery board to them to rough up the surface a bit.

 

[Irvin]

I did do that already. Someone suggested taking an emery board to them to rough up the surface a bit.

Well that sounds like a good way to get rid of the ruff surface on either the clamps or the emery board. Assuming the emory board wear down first it will leaves the string residue down in the ruff sufrace of the clamps. I suggest you clean them again and use 91% alchohol. I have been using a shoe string soaked in alchohol I rub back and forth in the clamp over and over again. I run the string through the clamp quite a bit every week. That could be after 1 or 2 string jobs and mabe as many as 20, it varies. I also use an old T-shirt with 91% alcohol to cleam the turntable and lubricate the clamp bases/hostle with Break Free CLP. I never have an issue.

 

[MisterP]

Well that sounds like a good way to get rid of the ruff surface on either the clamps or the emery board. Assuming the emory board wear down first it will leaves the string residue down in the ruff sufrace of the clamps.

Yeah, that's what I thought too.

I suggest you clean them again and use 91% alchohol. I have been using a shoe string soaked in alchohol I rub back and forth in the clamp over and over again. I run the string through the clamp quite a bit every week. That could be after 1 or 2 string jobs and mabe as many as 20, it varies. I also use an old T-shirt with 91% alcohol to cleam the turntable and lubricate the clamp bases/hostle with Break Free CLP. I never have an issue.

I'm going to try your shoestring method. Thanks.

 

[MisterP]

Well that sounds like a good way to get rid of the ruff surface on either the clamps or the emery board. Assuming the emory board wear down first it will leaves the string residue down in the ruff sufrace of the clamps. I suggest you clean them again and use 91% alchohol. I have been using a shoe string soaked in alchohol I rub back and forth in the clamp over and over again. I run the string through the clamp quite a bit every week. That could be after 1 or 2 string jobs and mabe as many as 20, it varies. I also use an old T-shirt with 91% alcohol to cleam the turntable and lubricate the clamp bases/hostle with Break Free CLP. I never have an issue.

I used your shoestring method and readjusted my clamps and it's working pretty nice now, so thanks for that.

I have another question for you - once I get the drop weight arm into the horizontal position I'm assuming I should clamp immediately, however there are times when there's a delay for whatever reason and the weight drops below horizontal. Should I adjust it again to get it back to level or release tension and repull to get to horizontal?

 

[Irvin]

I used your shoestring method and readjusted my clamps and it's working pretty nice now, so thanks for that.

I have another question for you - once I get the drop weight arm into the horizontal position I'm assuming I should clamp immediately, however there are times when there's a delay for whatever reason and the weight drops below horizontal. Should I adjust it again to get it back to level or release tension and repull to get to horizontal?

When you're ready to clamp I would go ahead an clamp it. some retention but I would not unless you retention on all your strings.

EDIT: By the way H shoestring wasn't my trick I used to use a pipe cleaner. I think @jim e mentioned the shoestring and I just picked it up.