Clamping first cross question.

gordo

New User
I have searched and also watched Almerik's video and still can't figure it out.

I am using an X-2 with floating clamps. I tie off my string to the main and weave the first cross, then pull the tension. What do I clamp this first string to after the tension is pulled?

Thanks.
 

gordo

New User
So . . . weave the second cross and pull from the end of the second and then clamp both of them together?
 

YULitle

Hall of Fame
That's one way. I've heard of people just clamping the first cross (after pulling it) on the far end and letting the mains hold the clamp in place. This seems worse than double pulling the first two crosses to me. And since those are the only two that I know about. I'd go with double pulling. But that's just me. :D
 

Loco4Tennis

Hall of Fame
the advise on the manual i have for the klippermate, is weave the first 2 crosses and then pull tension on the second cross, then clamp the 2 crosses, from that point on, just weave a cross and pull tension as normal

there is friction from the first cross coming arround the frame, but i guess it's as accurate as the last main on either side of the racquet and really not that important (that sounds bad), since any ball hit by does particular strings will either be mishits or shanks
 
Last edited:

dancraig

Hall of Fame
the advise on the manual i have for the klippermate, is weave the first 2 crosses and then pull tension on the second cross, then clamp the 2 crosses, from that point on, just weave a cross and pull tension as normal

there is friction from the first cross coming arround the frame, but i guess it's as accurate as the last main on either side of the racquet and really not that important (that sounds bad), since any ball hit by does particular strings will either be mishits or shanks

Yes, and that first cross is shorter than the others. So the actual string stiffness may not be much different than the other crosses.
 
D

Deleted member 25923

Guest
Double pulling. Though Silent partner mentions something about using a piece of dummy string. Elaboration please?
 

Bud

Bionic Poster
So . . . weave the second cross and pull from the end of the second and then clamp both of them together?

That's one way. I've heard of people just clamping the first cross (after pulling it) on the far end and letting the mains hold the clamp in place. This seems worse than double pulling the first two crosses to me. And since those are the only two that I know about. I'd go with double pulling. But that's just me. :D

Either of these will work but use a piece of 'dummy' string for the first suggestion. If you don't have the room to clamp (if the first cross is very close to the top of the racquet), clamp the string from the top and let the clamp bottom point upward.
 
Last edited:

Nuke

Hall of Fame
"Take a good look at this picture and ask what keeps the flying clamp from pulling back with the first cross. The answer, of course, is “the mains”. Note also that because you are only clamping one cross we recommend that you maintain proper pinching by placing a dummy piece of string on the free side of the clamp." --From the Silent Partner Swing manual

The teeth of the flying clamp hold it against the tensioned mains. Not perfect, and there's some drawback, but the only other option is to double-pull the first two crosses, and that's not great either.
 

Nellie

Hall of Fame
Double pulling. Though Silent partner mentions something about using a piece of dummy string. Elaboration please?

With the floating clamps, you may need a string in each side of the clamp, or two strings. The dummy string is just inserted into the clamp to provide proper tension for the other string. The clamp is held in place by the mains.
 

Loco4Tennis

Hall of Fame
Yes, and that first cross is shorter than the others. So the actual string stiffness may not be much different than the other crosses.

while restringing my racquet yesterday i kept this topic on my head and watched as the first 2 crosses where tensioned as i have been doing them all this time,
anyways, as the tension was applied, i saw the 2nd cross pull, but also the first string being shorter i guess, gave some as well, the friction i was expecting from the grommet hole on the frame was not as hard as i tought, so the first cross string also got pulled tight, i would not say the same as the second, but enough, i had to repull because it dropped the bar too low below the parallel level, from all the give from the second and first cross, also i was adding 5 more pounds than my set tension, on thoes first 2 crosses, i do this out of havit, i start with 5lbs more and end with 5lbs more, everytime, on mains and acrosses, to help with the knot issue; after i get the right tension, i clamp the crosses, and move on from there.

OP anyways, this is how the Klippermate mahcine advise you to pull the first 2 crosses
 
Last edited:

Bud

Bionic Poster
"Take a good look at this picture and ask what keeps the flying clamp from pulling back with the first cross. The answer, of course, is “the mains”. Note also that because you are only clamping one cross we recommend that you maintain proper pinching by placing a dummy piece of string on the free side of the clamp." --From the Silent Partner Swing manual

The teeth of the flying clamp hold it against the tensioned mains. Not perfect, and there's some drawback, but the only other option is to double-pull the first two crosses, and that's not great either.

The teeth hold it against the mains and the crosses are clamped.
 

Bud

Bionic Poster
Double pulling. Though Silent partner mentions something about using a piece of dummy string. Elaboration please?

Watch the teeth of a floating clamp when only one side is clamped... If both sides are clamped, the force on the string is higher. Therefore, use an extra piece of string and clamp it along with the single first cross.

I usually just clamp the first cross and leave the second side of the clamp empty. If you do this watch the string for slipping.
 

ARNICOLINI

Rookie
What I do:

Put a starting clamp on the outside of the first cross instead of tieing a starting knot. This is so you can string all the crosses and then come back and re-tension that first cross from the outside.

I double pull the first 2 crosses, I have a drop weight stringer, and I leave the weight a little high (above horizonatal). Then I use my fingers to push the first cross back and forth (like fanning when pulling the crosses) and work this motion from where the crosses start toward the second cross and then the second cross toward the tension head. I find it does indeed help with the friction and the weight will be lower when finished. If its not horizontal then I re drop.

Between the 2 techniques I find I get good consistency on my crosses.
 

aussie

Professional
Double pulling those first 2 crosses is sufficient. As mentioned, the short lengths of the first and second crosses results in increased stiffness which offsets any tension loss. There are many stringers who subscribe to the double pulling of the mains practice, so they would hardly regard double pulling of the first two crosses as an issue.
 

Loco4Tennis

Hall of Fame
their seems to be 4 distinct ways to do the first crosses that i have read so far here, each with their own unique way,
which is better?? i would say consistency it better regardless of method
anyway i'lll list them below, if you have another i missed or has not been mentioned yet please post:

A - Double Pulling the first 2 crosses method
B - Single pulling on second cross method
C - Starting clamp method
D - Single pulling first cross with dummy string method
 
Last edited:

Bud

Bionic Poster
What I do:

Put a starting clamp on the outside of the first cross instead of tieing a starting knot. This is so you can string all the crosses and then come back and re-tension that first cross from the outside.

I double pull the first 2 crosses, I have a drop weight stringer, and I leave the weight a little high (above horizonatal). Then I use my fingers to push the first cross back and forth (like fanning when pulling the crosses) and work this motion from where the crosses start toward the second cross and then the second cross toward the tension head. I find it does indeed help with the friction and the weight will be lower when finished. If its not horizontal then I re drop.

Between the 2 techniques I find I get good consistency on my crosses.

Some people do this... although, the first cross tension (especially if it loses only a few lbs.) will have little if any effect on the remaining stringbed.

It's more personal preference.
 
Top