Stringers. Help me out here.

[Caloi]

I've strung my racquets about 10 times now. I am not fast and I still wouldn't call myself good, but I'm getting better. Anyway, I'm struggling with one portion of the job and it's when doing a one piece stringing.

After I have strung my mains and am starting the string at my first cross, how to you clamp this to maintain pressure? I'll try to be descriptive: I start my first cross at the head. I weave it and push it through the hole on the other side. At this time I have a clamp still on the last main and one sitting next to me. I string my second cross (one ahead) and pull tension on the first cross...this is where I get confused. How do i clamp it? There's nothing to clamp it to. I have been clamping that one string and letting the lateral force against a main 'hold' it in position, just kind of resting there. After I pull tension on my second cross, after making my third weave(one ahead) I then have two strings to clamp and continue using both clamps, just like doing the mains.

This can't be right. Maybe I am to just pull tension on my second weave and hope it's pulling enough on the first?

Does this make sense? If not I'll try to be more specific.

All the racquets are definately playable when I'm done and I'm very happy doing the one piece on my racquets. I've did do a two piece and don't like having 4 knots just yet. I have no desire to hybrid yet either so I'd like to learn this one piece technique.

I'm about to restring this weekend and figured I'd finally figure this out.

 

[todot62]

I wrote a response but then I read your signature. Give me a bit to rewrite, or someone can beat me to it.

Tod

 

[Caloi]

If you are just doing a regular one piece with fixed clamps (the mains naturally end at the top, and the clamps are not floating) and not an ATW, the solution is easy. Just tie off the short side after you have strung the last main and free up that clamp. Then start your crosses from the long side and your first pull will be on the side of the free clamp.

All your doing right now is double pulling the first two crosses, not really that big of a deal, but certainly not appropriate.

If you are using an ATW pattern, or floating clamps, there are 100 answers.

Tod

I have the Gamma X-2 with whatever clamps they came with. (They are manual clamps)

Reading the bold above, will I have 3 knots then? I'm confused.

I'll start from the last pull on the last main, I've knotted the short side of the main and cut the tag end.

I pull tension on the last main on the long side and clamp...now what? How would you do this?

 

[Richie Rich]

i had a gamma x-2 for a while.

you want to string 1 piece right?

your last main ends up at the top of the frame allowing you to start the crosses from the head down to the throat.

once you tension the last main and clamp it off, weave your first cross. when you are done tension it with your second clamp. the mains will help hold the tension. then weave your second cross, tension it, and clamp it off with the clamp you were using for the mains. then just continue normally

if i had pictures it would be way easier to explain.

 

[Caloi]

i had a gamma x-2 for a while.

you want to string 1 piece right?

your last main ends up at the top of the frame allowing you to start the crosses from the head down to the throat.

once you tension the last main and clamp it off, weave your first cross. when you are done tension it with your second clamp. the mains will help hold the tension. then weave your second cross, tension it, and clamp it off with the clamp you were using for the mains. then just continue normally

if i had pictures it would be way easier to explain.

That sounds like what I'm doing. THe clamp pinching the first cross just wedges up against the mains, right? THere has to be a better way though!

 

[Richie Rich]

That sounds like what I'm doing. THe clamp pinching the first cross just wedges up against the mains, right? THere has to be a better way though!

on your first cross you will be clamping the cross and about 3 or 4 main strings. that's enough to keep tension reasonably well. when you tension the 2nd cross just unclamp the first cross to tighten it up a bit if you think it will be too loose. anyway, it's the top cross. it won't affect anything.

 

[jmjmkim]

There will always be some tension lost. You can pull the first cross a little tighter to compensate.

 

[NoNameZ]

yea, what i do is clamp the last main to hold tension, and then when I tension the first cross, i release the clamp on the main, and tension the cross a little higher, clamp it, and then move on to the next cross.

 

[fuzz nation]

For the record, I've only used the two-piece approach for my string jobs, but I understand what you're asking so I thought about what I do when I start my crosses.

I weave my first and second crosses, take tension on the second, and clamp both crosses with one clamp to hold that tension. While I'm sure that you wouldn't want much of any slack to run back to that last main on your one-piece layout, I can't believe that it would be a big deal, especially if you took an extra pound or two on that last main.

Like I said, two-piece stringer here. Feel free to "illuminate" me!

 

[GPB]

I have the same problem Caloi does, with my SP Swing. I get around this by pulling a couple lbs extra tension to compensate for the loss you're bound to get up there. That's one of the advantages of fixed clamps!

 

[W Cats]

When you've finished the mains there will be one clam(clamp B) on the long end after you've tensioned the last main on that side. On the short end tie off that main to free up the clamp (clamp A). Thread your first cross and tension it and clamp it off with clamp A and you should be set to go.

 

[GPB]

When you've finished the mains there will be one clam(clamp B) on the long end after you've tensioned the last main on that side. On the short end tie off that main to free up the clamp (clamp A). Thread your first cross and tension it and clamp it off with clamp A and you should be set to go.

He's saying he does exactly that, but pulling the cross against the other mains usually moves the mains a significant amount, and it's obvious that the first cross isn't receiving the full amount of tension.

My answer to this is that you make up for it by pulling the first two crosses with a little more tension. That way, the first cross is a little better, and the second cross can "eat up the slack" left by the first cross. Does anyone else do this, or is my reasoning off-the-wall?

 

[W Cats]

He's saying he does exactly that, but pulling the cross against the other mains usually moves the mains a significant amount, and it's obvious that the first cross isn't receiving the full amount of tension.

My answer to this is that you make up for it by pulling the first two crosses with a little more tension. That way, the first cross is a little better, and the second cross can "eat up the slack" left by the first cross. Does anyone else do this, or is my reasoning off-the-wall?

My bad. Didn't realize it was a floating clamp machine.

 

[GPB]

those darn floating clamps... this situation is definitely my biggest complaint about this style of stringing machine.

 

[Caloi]

I'm very relieved that this wasn't a question that i should have known the direct answer for! Whew!

Since I'm pretty new I've done what works for me. However I want to restring a racquet this weekend and figured I'd finally find out the correct way of doing this.

Thanks for the replies so far. If anyone else has "THE" solution, post it up!

(In before someone says go with a two piece):???:

 

[Nellie]

When you pull the second cross, doesn't pull the clamp on the first cross back, at least part of the way?

Anyway, I would not really worry to much about it since you are not going to feel a slight variation in the top cross - who hits there anyway?

 

[Irvin]

I assume you are using floating / flying clamps. I do not use floating clamps but have an idea for you. When you get all your mains ran use the long side to run you second cross and use the clamp from the long side to hold the cross on the outside of the racket on the short side. Then run the first cross with the short side and hold tension on it with the second cross. You may have to run the two cross strings and then pull tension so every it out of your way.

You will need to make your short side a little bit long to accommodate this extra cross.

Irvin

 

[GPB]

I assume you are using floating / flying clamps. I do not use floating clamps but have an idea for you. When you get all your mains ran use the long side to run you second cross and use the clamp from the long side to hold the cross on the outside of the racket on the short side. Then run the first cross with the short side and hold tension on it with the second cross. You may have to run the two cross strings and then pull tension so every it out of your way.

You will need to make your short side a little bit long to accommodate this extra cross.

Irvin

That's very interesting, and might just work (especially if you have a starting clamp). If you did it this way, would you suggest leaving that second cross in there (from the short side) or pulling tension again, clamping at the last main, and then tying off like normal? I guess leaving the short-side cross there isn't really hurting anything...

 

[todot62]

I assume you are using floating / flying clamps. I do not use floating clamps but have an idea for you. When you get all your mains ran use the long side to run you second cross and use the clamp from the long side to hold the cross on the outside of the racket on the short side. Then run the first cross with the short side and hold tension on it with the second cross. You may have to run the two cross strings and then pull tension so every it out of your way.

You will need to make your short side a little bit long to accommodate this extra cross.

Irvin

This is a good technique. You will have to clamp your last LONG side mains a bit lower to keep from covering the second cross grommet, but not really a big deal. If it were me, I would add 4 pounds to your last two mains and your first two crosses to compensate for: a) flying clamp drawback b) the tie off c) clamping the last LONG side main lower (all tension losers). I would also add 4 pounds to the LAST two crosses for tie off and drawback. However, this is just a personal technique thing. If you just do it the same way every time you'll be good.

Tod

 

[todot62]

That's very interesting, and might just work (especially if you have a starting clamp). If you did it this way, would you suggest leaving that second cross in there (from the short side) or pulling tension again, clamping at the last main, and then tying off like normal? I guess leaving the short-side cross there isn't really hurting anything...

You are correct Many people string a one piece tying off the short side after the first cross. This is a very accepted technique. You need a starting clamp to do this (or a flying clamp) but IMHO, I would rather tie off on a cross than a main.

Tod

 

[Richie Rich]

on your first cross, a floating clamp will move depending on the amount of space you have between the teeth of the clamp and the first main string. clamp the cross off properly and you will minimize movement and tension loss.

 

[t0nym4c]

In order for a flying clamp to work properly you have to clamp onto two strings. On your first cross you are only clamping on one string, there is nothing keeping the string from sliding. You might have to tension two crosses before you clamp.

 

[origmarm]

In order for a flying clamp to work properly you have to clamp onto two strings. On your first cross you are only clamping on one string, there is nothing keeping the string from sliding. You might have to tension two crosses before you clamp.

Sure there is, the main string that goes "across" the clamp. It's not perfect by any means but that's what holds the tension.

 

[Caloi]

on your first cross, a floating clamp will move depending on the amount of space you have between the teeth of the clamp and the first main string. clamp the cross off properly and you will minimize movement and tension loss.

Sure there is, the main string that goes "across" the clamp. It's not perfect by any means but that's what holds the tension.

This is what I'm doing.

I'm going to continue doing this but on my second cross I'll bump up the weight a few pounds to see if I gain anything. Sure you don't hit too many balls that high up but I'll feel better if I can NOT loose some of the tension by applying the method above.

Thanks for the input!

 

[Irvin]

That's very interesting, and might just work (especially if you have a starting clamp). If you did it this way, would you suggest leaving that second cross in there (from the short side) or pulling tension again, clamping at the last main, and then tying off like normal? I guess leaving the short-side cross there isn't really hurting anything...

If you have a flying / floating clamp you don't need a starting clamp. Run the short side string for the first cross and use the flying clamp from the short side mains on the outside of the frame where the long side is to hold the cross. Then use the long side to run the next cross and clamp it with the other flying clamp. Now pull tension again on the first cross and move the clamp from the outside of the frame to the inside and tie off the first cross. Continue stringing the crosses.

Irvin

 

[Irvin]

This is a good technique. You will have to clamp your last LONG side mains a bit lower to keep from covering the second cross grommet, but not really a big deal. If it were me, I would add 4 pounds to your last two mains and your first two crosses to compensate for: a) flying clamp drawback b) the tie off c) clamping the last LONG side main lower (all tension losers). I would also add 4 pounds to the LAST two crosses for tie off and drawback. However, this is just a personal technique thing. If you just do it the same way every time you'll be good.

Tod

Wow? You confused me. First you said lower the tension on the mains then you said add 4 pounds. I am not a big fan of raising tension on the last strings but many people do that when tying off and I see no problem with it.

Irvin

 

[Irvin]

In order for a flying clamp to work properly you have to clamp onto two strings. On your first cross you are only clamping on one string, there is nothing keeping the string from sliding. You might have to tension two crosses before you clamp.

If you clamp the string inside the frame that is true. But if you use the flying clamp on the outside of the racket to hold the first cross the frame will keep the string from drawing back. Then you can run the second cross and clamp on two string inside the frame.

Irvin

 

[toeknee]

I'm very relieved that this wasn't a question that i should have known the direct answer for! Whew!

Since I'm pretty new I've done what works for me. However I want to restring a racquet this weekend and figured I'd finally find out the correct way of doing this.

Thanks for the replies so far. If anyone else has "THE" solution, post it up!

(In before someone says go with a two piece):???:

Sorry for the SUC drawing but here is a method that I've been using.

What you need is a scrap piece of string with a knot at the end (purple string). I prefer poly because it doesn’t stretch as much. You will also need a starting clamp. If you don’t have one get a good old vice grip. Don’t worry about damaging the string since you will only be clamping the scrap string. Pull tension on the scrap string, clamp the scrap string on the outside of the frame using a starting clamp or vice grip and you have yourself an anchor string. Pretty simple, eh? lmk if you have any questions. Good luck!!

Btw, I own Wilsons that are 16x19s and I always do box patterns on them.

 

[origmarm]

This is what I'm doing.

I'm going to continue doing this but on my second cross I'll bump up the weight a few pounds to see if I gain anything. Sure you don't hit too many balls that high up but I'll feel better if I can NOT loose some of the tension by applying the method above.

Thanks for the input!

Just thinking about this, why not just start the first cross using a starting clamp/floating clamp on the outside and then pull the next couple and you will have two strings to clamp off on when you go to tie the cross. See here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIbR7OzJJ5k

You could I suppose pull a little more tension on the second string but I would think the starting clamp would be more accurate.

If you are just stringing for yourself at the end of the day as long as you do it the same way each time doesn't really matter all that much

 

[Irvin]

Just thinking about this, why not just start the first cross using a starting clamp/floating clamp on the outside and then pull the next couple and you will have two strings to clamp off on when you go to tie the cross. See here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIbR7OzJJ5k

Caloi is using a Gamma X2 stringer, no starting clamp, two flying clamps, and one piece stringing. If he uses the flying clamp on the outside for the first cross he will not be able to pull tension on the second cross since the clamp is on the outside of the frame for the first cross.

Irvin

 

[origmarm]

Caloi is using a Gamma X2 stringer, no starting clamp, two flying clamps, and one piece stringing. If he uses the flying clamp on the outside for the first cross he will not be able to pull tension on the second cross since the clamp is on the outside of the frame for the first cross.

Irvin

I forgot he was using 1 piece, oops.....

This is all so much easier using two piece

 

[Irvin]

I forgot he was using 1 piece, oops.....

This is all so much easier using two piece

Actually with two flying clamps and no starting clamp it is easier to use the one piece. That way the last main holds one end of the cross string for you.

But if you want to use two piece here is the way I would start the crosses using flying clamps:

Weave the first two crosses and set the tension in the clamp by pulling tension on both strings at the same time. Clamp the strings with the flying clamp at far away from the tension head as you can next to the frame.

Then pull tension on the second cross and clamp the string on the outside of the frame with the other clamp.

Then pull tension on the first cross and move the clamp from the two string to the same strings on the opposite of the racket, release tension, and tie off the first cross.

Pull tension again on the second cross to remove the clamp from the outside of the racket. As an added precaution you could remove the clamp from the inside (while you have tension on the string) reset tension and reset your clamp.

Continue stringing the crosses.

Irvin

 

[origmarm]

Actually with two flying clamps and no starting clamp it is easier to use the one piece. That way the last main holds one end of the cross string for you.

But if you want to use two piece here is the way I would start the crosses using flying clamps:

Weave the first two crosses and set the tension in the clamp by pulling tension on both strings at the same time. Clamp the strings with the flying clamp at far away from the tension head as you can next to the frame.

Then pull tension on the second cross and clamp the string on the outside of the frame with the other clamp.

Then pull tension on the first cross and move the clamp from the two string to the same strings on the opposite of the racket, release tension, and tie off the first cross.

Pull tension again on the second cross to remove the clamp from the outside of the racket.

Continue stringing the crosses.

Irvin

I tend to use the method in the video I linked to below but I will give this a try. I have a starting clamp and 2 floats. Seems like a good variation on this though that you have here

 

[Irvin]

I tend to use the method in the video I linked to below but I will give this a try. I have a starting clamp and 2 floats. Seems like a good variation on this though that you have here

The problem I have with the video is that YULitle was using fixed clamps. With flying clamps you can't hold tension with one string and nothing else.

Irvin

 

[origmarm]

The problem I have with the video is that YULitle was using fixed clamps. With flying clamps you can't hold tension with one string and nothing else.

Irvin

I guess this is what I was getting at earlier, the mains holds the tension. You put a bit of scrap string in the other side of the clamp and clamp it so that the 3 "teeth" of the clamp are against 3 mains. The 3 mains then hold the tension.

If you look here
http://www.sptennis.com/manuals/Swing.pdf
Top of page 12 it explains it and shows a picture.

I tend to use a starting clamp instead of a starting knot but it's the same principle.

Again it's not perfect but I find the loss to be minimal if you do it carefully and retension the first cross after you remove the starting clamp.

 

[jefferson]

Toeknee, pretty simple yet pretty impressive. I would think that this solution is the fastest and the easiest one offered so far. The pic definitely helped the explanation. Nice work!

 

[Irvin]

I guess this is what I was getting at earlier, the mains holds the tension. You put a bit of scrap string in the other side of the clamp and clamp it so that the 3 "teeth" of the clamp are against 3 mains. The 3 mains then hold the tension.

If you look here
http://www.sptennis.com/manuals/Swing.pdf
Top of page 12 it explains it and shows a picture.

I tend to use a starting clamp instead of a starting knot but it's the same principle.

Again it's not perfect but I find the loss to be minimal if you do it carefully and retension the first cross after you remove the starting clamp.

I guess it is all a matter of preference. I always use a starting knot because there is no tension loss.

When you put the scrap string in, as Silent Partner suggests, it is only to keep a constant pressure on the other string as no string in one side effects the the pressure on the other side. when you use the mains to hold tension on the first cross there will be some tension loss on that first cross. When you pull tension on the second cross you will remove some of the drawback but since you are then pulling around the grommet you will not pull the same tension on that first string as if you were pulling it directly. Why not just use a starting knot and pull tension on the first two crosses at the same time? You could double pull them too.

Irvin

 

[topanlego]

I guess it is all a matter of preference. I always use a starting knot because there is no tension loss.

When you put the scrap string in, as Silent Partner suggests, it is only to keep a constant pressure on the other string as no string in one side effects the the pressure on the other side. when you use the mains to hold tension on the first cross there will be some tension loss on that first cross. When you pull tension on the second cross you will remove some of the drawback but since you are then pulling around the grommet you will not pull the same tension on that first string as if you were pulling it directly. Why not just use a starting knot and pull tension on the first two crosses at the same time? You could double pull them too.

Irvin

It doesn't matter if you are doing 2 piece or 1 piece when using flying clamps. Either way, when you do the first cross, you will have only 1 string to clamp onto!

What you were doing in the first place is correct. The mains will hold the tension. If they did not, then the mains would snap. The only thing to add to that is to use a piece of scrap on the other side of the clamp so that the clamp is clamping onto 2 strings so that the clamping pressure is equal.

If you clamp as close to the frame as possible, the amount of tension loss should be minimal as the mains would be holding the clamp close to in place. As soon as you pull the 2nd cross, the tension should be back up. You will notice that the clamp moves back close to it's position when you first clamped it. You could always increase the tension by a couple pounds if you are worried that the tension is not correct.

See pic from Silent Partner's site. It clamps onto 1 cross only in Step 4.

http://sptennis.com/stringer.asp#crosses

 

[Caloi]

Good info here! Much appreciated! I'll have to view the picture above from home, work's net-nanny wns: me.

 

[Irvin]

It doesn't matter if you are doing 2 piece or 1 piece when using flying clamps. Either way, when you do the first cross, you will have only 1 string to clamp onto!

What you were doing in the first place is correct. The mains will hold the tension.

Balogny! Evidently you did not read or did not understand my first post in this thread.

Irvin

 

[GPB]

See pic from Silent Partner's site. It clamps onto 1 cross only in Step 4.
http://sptennis.com/stringer.asp#crosses

The SP manual will get the job done, but look at how they suggest you start the mains... there are much better methods than the ones they suggest. I think maybe they just wrote down the "easiest" way, so that people who need help to get started stringing can get a racket done.

Balogny! Evidently you did not read or did not understand my first post in this thread.

Irvin

Irvin, you saying this made me go back and reread the whole thread again, and I must say thank you to you and everyone else who came here with suggestions. I will never again clamp on a single cross, hoping that the mains will keep sufficient tension on it.

 

[origmarm]

The SP manual will get the job done, but look at how they suggest you start the mains... there are much better methods than the ones they suggest. I think maybe they just wrote down the "easiest" way, so that people who need help to get started stringing can get a racket done.

I didn't actually think that was all that bad ...goes to show right.

Seemed better than double pulling as an idea to me as when you pull the second main you get most of the "lost" tension back.

 

[jim e]

Sorry for the SUC drawing but here is a method that I've been using.

What you need is a scrap piece of string with a knot at the end (purple string). I prefer poly because it doesn’t stretch as much. You will also need a starting clamp. If you don’t have one get a good old vice grip. Don’t worry about damaging the string since you will only be clamping the scrap string. Pull tension on the scrap string, clamp the scrap string on the outside of the frame using a starting clamp or vice grip and you have yourself an anchor string. Pretty simple, eh? lmk if you have any questions. Good luck!!

Btw, I own Wilsons that are 16x19s and I always do box patterns on them.

I am glad that I have fixed clamps and a good machine so this does not really pertain to me, so fortunately I will not have to deal with this.I really don't think I will ever use flying clamps, as I would have no reason to.

But for piece of mind viewing this picture, I am attempting to make some sense of this anyways, and if you clamp your 1st cross to this scrap purple string as you have shown, how do you then proceed to install the next cross, as the purple string is there where the next cross should go, and you cannot remove the scrap string as you will lose tension if it is removed.So the scrap string is in the way of installing the next cross. What am I missing here? Now if you were able to sneek a scrap string below that 1st cross as an anchor (and preparing the racquet ahead of time by enlarging the grommets),I can see that, but not on the way you have your picture shown.But you said this is your method?

 

[toeknee]

I am glad that I have fixed clamps and a good machine so this does not really pertain to me, so fortunately I will not have to deal with this.I really don't think I will ever use flying clamps, as I would have no reason to.

But for piece of mind viewing this picture, I am attempting to make some sense of this anyways, and if you clamp your 1st cross to this scrap purple string as you have shown, how do you then proceed to install the next cross, as the purple string is there where the next cross should go, and you cannot remove the scrap string as you will lose tension if it is removed.So the scrap string is in the way of installing the next cross. What am I missing here? Now if you were able to sneek a scrap string below that 1st cross as an anchor (and preparing the racquet ahead of time by enlarging the grommets),I can see that, but not on the way you have your picture shown.But you said this is your method?

This is my method and welcome to the BOX METHOD.
End of discussion.

 

[GPB]

Since we're on the topic, toeknee, would you shed some light on the box method? I watched YuLitle's video on it, but it's the most confusing video of his (in my opinion). He doesn't really explain why or when he uses it... just says "on this racket it works well." Is there a general rule when the box method works to its full advantage and when it doesn't?

 

[toeknee]

Why use the box pattern? I use the box pattern to eliminate cross-overs. Meaning, when done correctly with the right string pattern there should be NO cross-overs on the outside of the frame. This imo give a racquet a cleaner look. Also, because there are no tie-offs on the outer mains the outer mains tend to be tighter.

When to use the box pattern? It really depends on the string pattern on the racquet. The box pattern will probably work with another string pattern besides 16*19 but it will have to be done differently from YuLitle's video.

 

[The_Question]

But for piece of mind viewing this picture, I am attempting to make some sense of this anyways, and if you clamp your 1st cross to this scrap purple string as you have shown, how do you then proceed to install the next cross, as the purple string is there where the next cross should go, and you cannot remove the scrap string as you will lose tension if it is removed.So the scrap string is in the way of installing the next cross. What am I missing here? Now if you were able to sneek a scrap string below that 1st cross as an anchor (and preparing the racquet ahead of time by enlarging the grommets),I can see that, but not on the way you have your picture shown.But you said this is your method?

Yeah, he's using the box pattern to string a whole racquet, so he use a piece of scrap string as an anchor to his first cross. He's not going to string that 2nd cross right after his 1st cross. After his first cross and use flying clamp to his scrap string, he will do his main instead. So he does not need to string the 2nd cross right after the 1st cross...

 

[jim e]

Yeah, he's using the box pattern to string a whole racquet, so he use a piece of scrap string as an anchor to his first cross. He's not going to string that 2nd cross right after his 1st cross. After his first cross and use flying clamp to his scrap string, he will do his main instead. So he does not need to string the 2nd cross right after the 1st cross...

Been a good # of years since I did any type of a box pattern. The last time was years ago, when the Wilson T-2000 was a popular racquet, as they had a specific pattern to use that was a type of box. (I strung a lot of those in late 60's-early 70's)
Now it seems that with all the hard weaves,on mains and crosses with a box pattern, there seems to be no need for me to utilize a pattern as such.I'm sure that some would like a pattern as such, to each there own.
Now it seems like with all the people requesting hybrids, I find myself stringing mostly 2 piece jobs for almost all the stringing, even if not a hybrid .Once in a while I'll do an ATW, or 1 piece where the mains end at top, but the majority of my stringing is 2 piece.

 

[The_Question]

ATW, or 1 piece where the mains end at top, but the majority of my stringing is 2 piece.

Yes, those 3 are the standard for stringing, the box pattern is rather rare now, so I can understand the confusion.

As for his example of using a scrap string to hold the tension of the 1st cross, it's a great idea.