How to transition from indoor hard to outdoor clay?

[JT_2eighty]

I'll admit, I'm spoiled by indoor conditions. I mostly play indoor from Sep thru May, and then 98% of the "outdoor" season, I still play on hard courts.

I wish I could play more clay, since I mainly play a baselining, counter-puncher game, and would like more clay for all the abuse the hard courts rack up on my body over the years, but I rarely get the chance (play at an indoor only club, no outdoor courts at all).

Does anyone have advice for me as far as what are the main things I should be ready for when it comes to the green-clay court? There are a few outdoor clay tourneys this summer I want to compete in, but I will not have access to practicing on clay beforehand. I have a bad feeling I'm just going to get waxed first round since I'll simply be adjusting right on the spot, still trying to play my "indoor" game. (which is moderate topspin both sides, 4.0-4.5, 2hbh, very consistent server).

Just looking for good advice, or some key things to be ready for, etc etc? Or, any tips to keep in mind that others have found useful when they make the hard to clay transition?

Thanks!

 

[JT_2eighty]

And to add, obviously I'm ready for slower surface, high-bounces, etc. I guess I'm just looking for odd tips or hints (like: "go to a park to an unused baseball field and slide around on the dirt to practice your footing"... i dunno, maybe that's a terrible idea)

 

[goran_ace]

And to add, obviously I'm ready for slower surface, high-bounces, etc. I guess I'm just looking for odd tips or hints (like: "go to a park to an unused baseball field and slide around on the dirt to practice your footing"... i dunno, maybe that's a terrible idea)

I would recommend working on your fitness. If points on clay last 3-4 shots longer than on hard, that really adds up over the course of a match. Even more so if you are grinding it out at the baseline. Also, because the ball slows down a lot after the bounce on clay, you have to get in the mind set that the point is not over until it is really over. Don't give up on a point because you think you hit a winner or because your opponent put something out of your range because it still might come back. Finally, I would recommend warming up as long as possible before your match to get acclimated to the clay. Use every minute of the warm up that is allowed.

 

[EP1998]

What Goran Ace said. With clay you need stamina but ability to pick your spots. Playing defense at times and switching to offense is big on clay.

Get a good practice partner, ball machine, or pay a coach to do consistency drills to reinforce that feeling that the point may not end after two or three shots. For example:

1. play a game to eleven where you lose point if you hit past service line (or miss long, wide, into net as usual). Point is over when someone hits short. Try to use topspin to really work each other and force the short ball
2. play a game to eleven where you have to hit past the service line as above, and when person hits short, you have to go offense and either nail approach and come in and play out the point (try to angle off the volley if you can) or you can drop. If you dont come in or drop off the short ball you lose two points.
3. have partner hit second serves only and you have to attack the second serve. people dont do this enough and if you practice it you feel what return works when
4. the old standby drill where one person hits cross court and the other down the line - good for point fitness and defending skills
5. practice placing your serve to targets to set up the point
6. use the drop shot. make sure you practice it each time you play.

dont worry about sliding either, that will take care of itself.

Use your indoor skills to take the ball early sometimes. You dont have to do it on every point - unless its working - but its a good thing to do on clay, especially if you are playing retriever. You have to think about how you win points and translate that to clay.

 

[papa]

Well, as you know there really aren't any clay courts as such so were talking about Har-Tru (two mixtures of crushed stone - base and topcoat). Red courts are generally crushed brick. OK, everyone already knows that.

What I would suggest is start using shoes that are worn a little so you can slide a spec - doesn't have to be a lot at first. You have to lean back a spec to slide effectively but its really no big deal. New shoes grab too much, at least for me anyway.

Make sure you have hat and or sunglasses because the sun will come into play more often than you might think.

Depending on the hard courts your used too, Har-Tru courts will be much slower. The ball will slow to more than 50% of its original speed and a great deal of that is when it contacts the court surface. So you can't stay back as far and the bounce will generally be higher - in some instances, a lot higher.

If you play with a lot of spin, you can kiss that factor goodbye outside because again, the surface neutralizes a great deal of the spin. Many of the spin doctors won't even play outside for that very reason although they manage to come up with a variety of excuses.

I happen to like the feel of Har-Tru but many feel it too slippery.

Another thing, if you go down - and you will, its only a matter of time, make sure you scrub your scrapes so you don't end up with infections. You might laugh but its a serious problem. Get them scrubbed clean with soap and apply first aid cream and cover them up. Har-Tru surfaces collect a lot of bad stuff and you don't want to end up in the hospital.

 

[JT_2eighty]

Thanks all! Some great tips. Played a benchmark 5.0 and lost 3 & 2, so considering how I'm not a 5.0 and not accustomed to har-tru, I was pretty happy to have held serve 5 times...

FWIW, I also found these to have useful info:
http://www.tennisserver.com/turbo/turbo_99_08.html
http://www.tennisserver.com/mental-equipment/me_99_06.html