Discussion in 'Stringing Techniques / Stringing Machines' started by Tennisguy777, Jul 27, 2008.
That's what I mean it won't stay like pic when I am not using it.
Really? Hmm, does it say anything about a stop screw or something of that sort in the manual. loco, any help?
if this is the problem, than the "rocker bumper" need to be tightened (page 3), and placed just like on that diagram
rocker bumper stops the bar from falling too far forward
you should never have to hold the drum while tension is being applied, push it down or up to get it to parallel possition to apply the tension
the picture you posted is in its resting state
you are a genius it has a stop screw now the clamp problem they let go of strings
Am I supposed to turn the bolt at the bottom of the clamps cause the clamps aren't holding the string
here is what i do to tighten the flying clamps
loosen the nut on the clamps, very loose
lossen the knobs at the bottom of the clamp, these are your tightening knobs, the less you tighten the bigger the space gets on the clamp teeth, while the clamp is closed or opened
close clamp with string on either side
tighten bottom knob until the teeth are snugg on string, not too tight
tighten knob about 1/4 turn more
test by clamping on string,
release clamp and see if it leaves a mark or string, white mark or deformation of string, not good either way, if it does, too tight, you need to unturn the bottom knob a bit
once the knob is set and you think you have the correct tightness on the strings, give the 2 strings a tugg to make sure their is not slipage
after thats done, tighten the nuts on the clamps to the top, this stops the bottom knot from moving acsidentally while stringing
i should also mention that where you test and where you clamp on the teeth is important
for the mains, you can let the string rest as far down in the clamp as possible, and keep all main string at that level, if you test just on the teeth part almost all the way up on the top of the clamp, the pressure on the bottom of the clamp is gonna be greater
when you do the crosses, where the string clamps is gonna move up a bit, so you might have to readjust your clamps to where you are gonna clamp
their is a thread on this, i'll try to find it
found it, here it is
i use option 2 mosttly, but like i said, where you clamps needs to stay constant, other wise the further up you clamp the loose the grip is gonna be
they clamp fine without strings but once I put strings they won't hold
i bought myself a x-2
the mounts on the klipper suck. but it will get the job done
I am going to bed @#$@ this #$@%.
ok awake bright and early LOL
My clamps worked great, but you have to follow the instructions and make sure you clamp the string just below the teeth of the clamp. These clamps are altered vice grips, which if you tighten them too much will flatten the string like a pancake.
my problem is step 2 in the book after i clamp the the left center main and the second left main when i drop weight the weigth just falls.
I am stuck at step 5.
Ok, it sounds like it is your technique of putting the string through the tensioner.
What kind of string are you using? Some are more flexible than others and I have had to double clutch, meaning lifting the arm and pulling out the slack from the string. Also follow the instructions and use your finger in the hole in the tensioner. This always gave me a good grip on the string. When you start, make sure you put the arm up to the 1 o clock position to get the slack out of the string.
I got it now thanks for the help!
Hows it going TG777? Manage to complete the job? I've been off line for a couple of days and just read the last 2 pages of posts.
The floating clamps are factory set and will clamp and hold 16 - 17 gauge strings well. I've adjusted mine so that there is some slight flattening and crimping of the string. a little flattening isn't a prob and I'd rather some flattening than be too loose and let the string slip.
The biggest challenge at first is judging how much string to feed thru the gripper jaws. The first feed is better to feed thru a little too much as it is easier to lift the arm from below horizontal and pull thru a little more string than to lift the arm and release some. Remember that you will need a lot more slack in the string fed thru the jaws if it is a poly. When it is a syn, you virtually pull the strings thru the jaws firmly without leaving any slack. You get a feel for this in no time.
Did you work out the use of the start pin? It is a simple but great idea from Klipper though you need to be inventive to use it with o port Princes.
One more tip: After you do the right center main first up, do the next 3 center mains on the left. That then leaves both clamps at the same end of the racquet (either top or bottom of the hoop). I think from memory that method is different from the manual (I'm typing this in bed on Sat morn here in Brisbane). Then start on the second main on the right side of the frame and do the next one on the right straight away so both clamps are at the same end of the racquet with 6 strings (3 either side) tensioned and clamped. From there it is repitition - left, right, left, right until all mains are done and then tie off.
Tip 2 (Klipper never mention this) - when you go to tension that second main on the right side (remember you have just tensioned the first 3 on the left), let the tension arm rest more above horizontal than normal (say 2 inches at the tip of the arm). This is because on that string only, the tension arm drops a lot more than normal when the clamp is released. I assume that this occurs because that is the first clamp that you use when you initially clamp the right and second right strings right at the start and then is a little slack between those 2 strings. Very hard to explain this, but you will see what I mean and make the appropriate adjustment.
Have fun, but practise a couple of times on an older frame before you try your AG 300's.
well after some hiccups the mains are done. not sure if i tied off at the right places since I couldn't find a pattern, here it is
I also over measured the mains so my cross string is only 14.5 feet long will it be enough to do this 90 sq in racquet. I have a few scraps of string left from the mains is there away to connect it or something. If not I can use another set of synth gut but don't want to unless it's necessary.
Sorry, you have to get some fresh string. Also, if you go to the Klipper USA site they list just about every racquet's specs when it comes to the main and crosses tie off points. The pamphlet that comes with the machine does not have all make and model racquet's in it. Keep at it, you will get the hang of it after about 4- 5 string jobs.
on most racquets, you will mosttly need 20' for mains and 20' for crosses, that is a good general measurement, there are exceptions however, some racquets require an entra 1' on the mains, so find out your pattern and string needed before you cut
looking up your racquet on the racquet pattern page online will also tell you how much string you need for that perticular racquet
not all racquets are listed there, but they do show agreat deal of them, and sometimes they will have a very similar size to the one your are looking for
as you continue to string, you'll also notise that cross strings require usually less than 20', this is also a specific number per model of racquet
the 14.5 how ever might be too short, and tieing it off and then continuing with another string is not a good thing
measure out a 20' length from another set of string to finish this racquet, how much you are left with at the end is how much you can save next time you do the crosses on this same racquet
Well I tied off the next to last cross and used another string to finish it off. i had a total of 6 knots on racquet. Racquet had small cracks at 9 o'clock and also a harline one at 12 o'clock the 9 o'clock one can be observed in above picture. It did develop a crack at 3 o'clock but more like the paint pealling around the grommet more than anything. I guess too much stress. I'll hit with it and see how it goes. This was the first racquet I ever owned so i'll probably leave it in the closet. I think I got the hang of things this time it won't take like 12 hrs hopefully. I'll next do my LM Radical a more modern racquet and stronger racquet lets hope I don't crack that one!
Hey 777 I just got my Klipper today, I took my lady's nFury and let it rip with that Nylon that came with, there was almost no pressure on breaking the string or the stick and I stumbled through in about 2.5 hrs. The mains were a breeze for me but the crosses kind of sucked. Anyway going to try this ultimate hybrid on one of my Dunlop's next. Did anyone actually like this string?
Are you sure you caused the cracks because if you mounted it properly and didn't set a ridiculous tension there is no reason why you would have caused the cracks. Always pull the mounting arms with the frame plates out very tightly against the frame and screw down very firmly. Once mounted, try to twist and move the frame - if it is mounted correctly it won't budge.
Yeah, it's good to get that first one out of the way. You'll feel more confident for your second. Duly noted that you didn't string your own frame first up :wink: Crosses always take longer - the more you weave the better you'll get. Speed is not everything, but accuracy coupled with consistency is. Next you'll be ordering different types of strings and gauges and there'll be no holding you back.
happend to me too... load the string into the jaws more tighter then you might think is right.also clamp the string right next to the frame
2 things of interest. Your knots are so bulky that they must have added considerable weight to the head!!! Double half hithes are all you need for tie offs or a Parnell when you're up to it. And, is that the AG 300 lying on the floor unsuspecting it is about to become your next victim? Well done on your first, it gets easier from here.
sounds like it might be all that stress from being on the machine too long
one thing you dont want to do is leave the racquet half done on the machine, this creates deformation of the racquet, from all the pressure pulling on them mains only, once you do the mains continue with the crosses,
if you dont think you have 2 hours to do a racquet from now on, dont start; i say 2 hours because thats really about the time it takes until you get good at it; there are other aspects of the string job that will take up the 2 hours, like cutting, measuring stringing, seting up, etc
as per how long the mains can be on the racquet without the crosses strung up, well,, i think a quick bathroom break and/or going to get a glass or water would be the extend that i would make, so i try to keep this to a minimum
How do you have six knots?
Well I managed to break the polyester string that came with the Klippermate, apparently its a little bit trickier and requires more patience than syn gut. Reviewed my first job on the nFury and realized that while I did alternate over unders on the bottom 3 and top 3 crosses, I didn't go back and make sure it lined up everywhere else so it's not strung right. Anyone know if that will lead to problems, as its only at the very top and bottom of the frame?
i had six knots once because a ran out of string 2/3 done with my crosses so I had to take some leftover sting and make another knot
yeah, when you get arround to it, redo the racquet, this was ok for your first string job, it gave you good practise on tieying knots
but as far as tension goes, who knows whats on there now
i think you mentioned this was a spare racquet, playing with it would not be good for it
so for 2 piece stringing there are 4 knots? also for a LM radical MP is it 1 piece cause I only see 2 knots.
method 1 : 1 piece stringing = 2 knots = one uncut 40' cord (respectably)
method 2 : 2 piece stringing = 4 knots = two 20' cords (respectably)
some racquets require one method over the other, not sure why, but IMO 2 piece is better and safer for the racquet
even tough the pattern for MY racquet says only 1 piece, i string mine with 2 piece because hat way i can use a hybrid setup
the klippermate manual you have, does cover both types of stringing, read the manual if you havent already, it really is good info to know, it is specific to your machine,
i remeber i read it as soon as i got the package, and then read it along while stringing my first racquet, thats why it took me 3+ hours to complete
No, Head LM Radicals are always 2 piece, or ATW pattern, but don't worry about ATW for now.
Yeah, my LM Rad OS can be done 1 or 2 piece, but I always do 2 piece. 4 knots yes, but the way to go so you can hybrid etc and not worry about the 1 long length of string. I always do 2 piece stringing unless specifically requested not to do so.
I can't believe a War Eagle blew those crosses, haha We war Eagles don't make mistakes like that. kidding
Congrats on getting that first one out of the way. You are braver than me. I broke down and got a neos 1000, cause I was afraid I couldn't/wouldn't do it on one of those basic models. Even at $1100, its been a real good investment. 500 sticks later and about $7000 in savings without counting milage for drop and pick up.
For less than 200, just think how well that will serve your wallet!
War Eagle back at you
I am stringing my radical now I'll let you guys know how it turns out! Wish me success!
I know I was quite embarrassed. But that's why in the instructions it says do not force weight into horizontal position. Good to see a fellow Tiger out there.
Here it is my perfect KlippJob 64 LB. Can't wait till morning to hit with it!
Well done TG777. Could I suggest that as you tension the crosses, that you straighten them. In other words, drop the tension rod, release the clamp, straighten the cross being tensioned and the one before it as well, and then clamp the string being tensioned. You'll find that at the conclusion of your stringing, the crosses will all be reasonably straight. Looks good and probably plays better too. Look forward to seeing the completed job on your AG300 in time.
Hey aussie I was thinking of stringing my AG a little tighter than the recomended 55-65#. The last time I had it strung at 65# with a Gamma Electric machine. I was thinking like 68-69# Will it be ok for the frame. I don't want to break it. I had heard going up 10% more wouldn't harm a frame.
the ranges only matter for the warranty, and of course the stick was always strung in the range;-);-)
that said, i would not go to much over 70, especially for you and your machine
with my prince or a babolat, i would go a bit higher
hey , good job, looks good, how long did this one string job take you?
as per the "aussies" statement above, he si correct, straightening the crosses as you tension them will not only make the strings look straighter at the end, but also give you a more accurate tension because of reduction in string sag (thats what im gonna call it), one way to see that change or rather benefit of getting in the havit of this, is by watching the weight drum move when you move the crosses into a straighter line
as per the statement from "iplaybetter", he is also corect in the fact that the tensions suiggestion oin the racquet isfor company warranty reasons mainly, their is also the testing they've done where they say the racquet plays better at thoes ranges, while i do believe their is some truth to that, i also think that once you benture away from the string they used to test, the racquet will pay different as well, and thus leaving you as the ultimate judge as to what tension and what gauge string you should be using on your racquet
one thing about the comment though, is the 70lbs mentioned
the hlippermate can string it up to 90lbs, which means that if the racquet can take it, you can string it that high, but also you need to find a string that will hold up to 90lbs,, and not all strings will hold up to that
Given that the general consenus is that the Klippermate probably strings a little under the required tension, going over the recommended tension range a little should be fine. I string a friend's Head Flexpoint 10 (115 sq in) at 4 lbs over the stated max of 64 because he wants a very firm stringbed. No problems, and he loves the firm bed.
You have a Donnay Pro Ceramic 1??? Is that the one from the 80s? If so, I want to buy it from you.
Hey tennisguy777. Perfect job? Are you sure? That picture of your racquet looks like the head is about to implode. Maybe it is camera angle but that head is unbelievably too round and out of shape. Measure the distance from the tip to the throat and compare it to an unstrung one.
If it's not the camera angle I'd say the mounts failed and distorted the racquet. If so, cut those out ASAP and save your racquet.
I just read you broke another racquet at 3 o'clock? You are not mounting the racquet right. I had a Klipper as my first machine and I broke a couple of racquets too. You HAVE to pay extra attention to the mounts. Every time you break a racquet, you can look at it as adding to the cost of the machine.
So, after hitting with it... is your arm still intact?
A full poly job at 64# on a dropweight will be STIFF! :shock:
How did it feel?
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