bengilmore01
New User
Does anyone have (or had) a pros pro stringer and whats your thoughts on it
Pro's Pro
- Thread starter bengilmore01
- Start date
I also own a comet. Very satisfied with it. No problems with its clamps, though I string mainly polys (their cheap starting clamp can hold a poly well but with multis I have noticed slippage issues). The machine seems robust. I have not encountered any dysfunction or any flaws in its mechanical parts. If you are on a budget and seek a reliable crank machine, it is a great option.
D
Deleted member 369227
Guest
Pro’s Pro Tomcat MT-400 owner here. I’m very happy with it, but it’s my first stringer ever, so I cannot tell you if it’s better or worse than other electronic, linear pull machines.
WYK
Hall of Fame
Comet here as well.
I was looking long and hard at a NEOS, a Gamma lockout, and the Stringway because of the foot thing and foot print, but they had a stupid Christmas sale on the Comet I couldn't ignore. I got a new one delivered to my door for €350 or so with a few tools thrown in. That was about 5 or 6 years ago now. During our short tennis season I string a few dozen racquets. During winter, I test strings if I get bored.
What I like:
Short throw, and short cranking. Loads of feedback when you make a pull. It is a fast, consistent machine. Requires very little lead string from the racquet to anchor a pull. Love the feel and action.
5 finger clamps that actually work very well and don't molest the strings.
Heavy, solid, simple build. Also, very solid. And it's also solid, yet simple.
Super reliable.
Still calibrates same as new.
The stringing platform is the perfect height. Just barely clears the puller, and it allows you to avoid ever going over the frame and pulling off of the frame to tension. It always allows a clear pull.
It has a table lock so you can do up a stupid, stupid, stupid Prince O-port if you are stupid enough to take one in to string.
Stupid. You wanna know why you failed, Prince? This is why.
Full height stand is available, and affordable.
ProsPro actually answer emails. At least they answered all mine before I purchased. Haven't needed to email them since.
What I don't like:
Guide rails and clamp design are a bit more grabby than they should be, so moving clamps can be a pain until they are worn in. They are chrome plated, so they take a while to wear in.
The clamp release can fight you on occasion. Just often enough for me to mention it here. They can be adjusted, tho.
Starting clamp not the best. Get a babolat. Still, tho, I can get away with the ProsPro clamp on 48# and lower string jobs. Not bad for a 5 year old clamp that came with the stringer. I still use it on occasion to clamp off if I am getting creative with a string job, or need to extend a string to anchor it in the puller...so long as it's below 48#...
When the crank stops at tension, the spring causes the entire mechanism to sing. You can silence it a bit, and I have, but it's always there a little bit still. It's fine now, but unsilenced, it really sings. You're not gonna do any late night stringing in a house full of sleeping family unless you have a basement.
Having said all that, this thing paid for itself before it saw it's second year of life. And, in all honesty, I rarely consider upgrading. Though I do love the look and feel of the Gamma lockouts.
I've used a couple of electronic stringers, and though they are a bit more compact, something about no feedback always bothers me. But I love countervail racquets? Crazy, no?!
I was looking long and hard at a NEOS, a Gamma lockout, and the Stringway because of the foot thing and foot print, but they had a stupid Christmas sale on the Comet I couldn't ignore. I got a new one delivered to my door for €350 or so with a few tools thrown in. That was about 5 or 6 years ago now. During our short tennis season I string a few dozen racquets. During winter, I test strings if I get bored.
What I like:
Short throw, and short cranking. Loads of feedback when you make a pull. It is a fast, consistent machine. Requires very little lead string from the racquet to anchor a pull. Love the feel and action.
5 finger clamps that actually work very well and don't molest the strings.
Heavy, solid, simple build. Also, very solid. And it's also solid, yet simple.
Super reliable.
Still calibrates same as new.
The stringing platform is the perfect height. Just barely clears the puller, and it allows you to avoid ever going over the frame and pulling off of the frame to tension. It always allows a clear pull.
It has a table lock so you can do up a stupid, stupid, stupid Prince O-port if you are stupid enough to take one in to string.
Stupid. You wanna know why you failed, Prince? This is why.Full height stand is available, and affordable.
ProsPro actually answer emails. At least they answered all mine before I purchased. Haven't needed to email them since.
What I don't like:
Guide rails and clamp design are a bit more grabby than they should be, so moving clamps can be a pain until they are worn in. They are chrome plated, so they take a while to wear in.
The clamp release can fight you on occasion. Just often enough for me to mention it here. They can be adjusted, tho.
Starting clamp not the best. Get a babolat. Still, tho, I can get away with the ProsPro clamp on 48# and lower string jobs. Not bad for a 5 year old clamp that came with the stringer. I still use it on occasion to clamp off if I am getting creative with a string job, or need to extend a string to anchor it in the puller...so long as it's below 48#...
When the crank stops at tension, the spring causes the entire mechanism to sing. You can silence it a bit, and I have, but it's always there a little bit still. It's fine now, but unsilenced, it really sings. You're not gonna do any late night stringing in a house full of sleeping family unless you have a basement.
Having said all that, this thing paid for itself before it saw it's second year of life. And, in all honesty, I rarely consider upgrading. Though I do love the look and feel of the Gamma lockouts.
I've used a couple of electronic stringers, and though they are a bit more compact, something about no feedback always bothers me. But I love countervail racquets? Crazy, no?!
WYK
Hall of Fame
I had some questions on how to silence the Comet in PM. I'll also add them here for posterity.
This is your culprit on the Comet - this spring under the crank cover likes to sing(please pardon the dust):
Here I have already fitted a thick piece of leather underneath it. I removed the old piece of leather I had previously installed, which was still very well seated after 5+ years, to show how I did it. I pull the spring up to allow me to place the strip of leather under the spring, on top of the drum, securely. This mechanism rotates maybe 10*, so the strip will stay in place for years once installed.
You can also tell by it's construction that these things are literally hand fitted from a parts bin. Like I said before - very simple. This usually means reliable and easily maintained and adjusted, with no need to purchase expensive proprietary parts for repair most of the time(if any).
Trimmed:
The bracket mount is a thin but strong piece of steel. Just to make sure it doesn't add any harmonics, I add a few grams of lead.
I then add more lead to the arm(about 4-5 inches in two pieces).
I also place a #65 rubber band on the external spring just to be safe, although this one doesn't sing anything like the internal spring.
Now when it locks, it simply goes 'thunk'.
This is your culprit on the Comet - this spring under the crank cover likes to sing(please pardon the dust):
Here I have already fitted a thick piece of leather underneath it. I removed the old piece of leather I had previously installed, which was still very well seated after 5+ years, to show how I did it. I pull the spring up to allow me to place the strip of leather under the spring, on top of the drum, securely. This mechanism rotates maybe 10*, so the strip will stay in place for years once installed.
You can also tell by it's construction that these things are literally hand fitted from a parts bin. Like I said before - very simple. This usually means reliable and easily maintained and adjusted, with no need to purchase expensive proprietary parts for repair most of the time(if any).
Trimmed:
The bracket mount is a thin but strong piece of steel. Just to make sure it doesn't add any harmonics, I add a few grams of lead.
I then add more lead to the arm(about 4-5 inches in two pieces).
I also place a #65 rubber band on the external spring just to be safe, although this one doesn't sing anything like the internal spring.
Now when it locks, it simply goes 'thunk'.
OldManStan
Rookie
Earlier this year, I bought a used pros pro pilot for less than $300 to supplement the stringings this summer. It’s pretty easy to maintain and take apart. A couple of months ago, one of the bearings that holds the gripper head to the arm popped off, but it was easy to find the replacement. I also had an issue with the lockout brake mechanism and the rotor where it would catch or have heavy resistance. I found that there was about a .15mm difference in thickness on the rotor, so I sanded it down as much as I felt comfortable with and now it rotates much more smoothly. I also did have to adjust the height of the tension spring screw so that the spring wouldn’t bow outward when under compression. A little sewing machine oil on the base, also did wonders for the clamp. Overall, despite the little things I had to fix, there’s not much wrong with it. I do wish the tolerances were a bit tighter in spec however.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
am1899
Legend
I would agree.
Fortunately it sounds like Pro’s Pro doesn’t have the same abysmal customer service that Eagnas owners enjoy (ahem...or not).
I had one for awhile (eagnas). Victor was sort of a pain, but with the proper approach he was no big deal. But yes, I would agree
in general.
CharlottesHead
Rookie
I also own one and it's also my first machine!
Do you know how to calibrate it? The "manual" says nothing except spring measures aren't accurate enough and it's calibrated in the factory, but the Pros Pro tension calibrator I have says it's off by +3kg when set to 25kg. At 10kg it's on the mark. ALSO adding to my confusion is the rackets I've strung don't feel too tight when playing with them but do register as high with racquet tune (not that I trust it much).
Any help would be appreciated.
Folsom_Stringer_Musa
Professional
Try another measuring tool first. Something digital (they're cheap) perhaps or at least another spring calibrator.
After that, it likely works like many other lockouts as far as calibration. I have a eagnas 910 Combo manual i can send
you and since i think many pro's pro and eagnas machines are "the same" i'd at very least say the tension heads are
the same/similar enough.
anarosevoli
Semi-Pro
It's all the same, I have a Superstringer and a Pro's Pro, mostly same parts (did buy the second one mainly for spare parts). Same clamps and bases also found on Spinfire and Gamma machines. Pro's Pro has the best prices for the same parts it seems.
CharlottesHead
Rookie
Thanks, I actually did this yesterday. I bought some digital fish scales and the Pros Pro seems to be on the mark. LESSONS LEARNED: Don't trust Pros Pro spring calibrator or phone apps, lol.
CharlottesHead
Rookie
Follow up question...
I don't know (for lack of experience) if this happens on all machines, but I've noticed that when releasing the string from the tension head (while clamped and locked in) it appears the clamp moves back a few millimeters. What's that all about? It feels really solid when I try to move it while locked with my hand.
(Machine: Pros Pro Tomcat MT-400)
I don't know (for lack of experience) if this happens on all machines, but I've noticed that when releasing the string from the tension head (while clamped and locked in) it appears the clamp moves back a few millimeters. What's that all about? It feels really solid when I try to move it while locked with my hand.
(Machine: Pros Pro Tomcat MT-400)
it is normal to have very little drawback. i recall @Irvin has a video explaining about that.
i recall you were asking about the ops manual - if you still want one, ping me your email address. i can send it over. it is by no means a detailed one, but thats what the PP head office sent me.
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
There are ways to reduce drawback. Using knot tension is not one of them. When you apply a knot tension you are applying a higher tension to the string then clamping an equalized string. At the point where you apply the clamp you have the same tension on both sides of the clamp. When you remove the tension applied to one side the tension on the other side draws the string and clamp back. The higher the tension you applied to the string greater The drawback. But because you stretched the string a greater distance the end result is a higher tension after drawback.
A way to cut down on drawback is to preload the clamp a little by pushing the base of the clamp in the direction of tensioner. That way the clamp applies some resistance to the string as the tensioner is removed and reduces some drawback. Using a good starting knot eliminates any drawback in the top cross. There should be less drawback in the bottom cross because of the redpaced string tension because of string to string friction. Stringing 1 piece reduces drawback (especially if you tie off crosses only) because you eliminates 2 knot sources of drawback and both strings you’re tying off have string to string friction. Removing as much slack between the knot and clamp will also reduce drawback.
Drawback is normal but you can minimize bit.
A way to cut down on drawback is to preload the clamp a little by pushing the base of the clamp in the direction of tensioner. That way the clamp applies some resistance to the string as the tensioner is removed and reduces some drawback. Using a good starting knot eliminates any drawback in the top cross. There should be less drawback in the bottom cross because of the redpaced string tension because of string to string friction. Stringing 1 piece reduces drawback (especially if you tie off crosses only) because you eliminates 2 knot sources of drawback and both strings you’re tying off have string to string friction. Removing as much slack between the knot and clamp will also reduce drawback.
Drawback is normal but you can minimize bit.
David Hughes
New User
Dear all, I have just bought a Comet crank machine (used) but the tension is slightly out by 3-4lbs across the range. I can't work out how to adjust the tension head from the brochure. Does anyone have any experience of this? All tips & advice appreciated.
Cheers
David
Cheers
David
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Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
Be very careful adjust a LO machine. The adjust so be made at the instant the LO locks out and not after it settles. If you use the tension after it settle your machine will be adjust to lockout at a tension higher than reference tension. 3-4 lbs sounds about right (depending on the string) for a settled tension.
On LO machine there is a brake release lever and catch that engages and releases the brake. As the string is tensioned the back of the gripper assembly lift to release the lever. There is usually a set screw on the side that allow you to hold or turn an adjustment screw on the front.
EDIT: Some people believe a kevlar should be used on the ends of a tension gauge for adjustments. If you use the tension the instant the machine locks out it does not matter what string you use. Best to use the string the gauge came with or a similar string.
MathieuR
Hall of Fame
You can also tension the same piece of string say 10 times. That way the "plastic elongation" will be removed, and only the elastic elongation remains, which gives an "almost" reliable measurement of the lock-out tension.
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
Plastic / elastic, it does not matter. You could use a rubber band if will hold the tension. You should make an immediate measurement at lock out and not give the string time to stretch. The reason you want an immediate is because different string relax at a different rate. If you make measurement after it settles for 10 seconds it will not be the same for all strings.
MathieuR
Hall of Fame
I does matter!
Maybe I used the wrong term: with "plastic elongation", I meant "lasting elongation" . The elongation that "lasts" when the pulling tension is discontinued. When you pull tension with a crank 10 times, you have removed almost all "lasting elongation" (relevant to that specific ref.tension); then you will have only the "elastic elongation", and you will notice that after lock-out, the tension hardly will drop.
Well from your posts you make now, you must be stringing with a crank. Big change from your stringway that you praise ad nauseum.
At least it's good to know you now prefer a crank over your String way.
So why is 10 times a magic number?
How many times have you strung on a crank at different number of cranks to come up with 10 times??
You come up with the same number with all types of strings???
Just how long does it take you to string a racquet pulling 10 times??
If you tried it at many different pulls , like 15 times, 14 times,9 times and 8 times etc. etc. you must have recorded all this data with many different string types, and many different pull counts to come up with 10?
You must have vast experience stringing with a crank to come up with all your vast data. How about showing us that data so we can all be enlightened how you came up with all this!
My opinion is your pushing more bull.
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MathieuR
Hall of Fame
@jim e , read the posts; we are talking about calibrating a crank.
@Irvin posted "once upon a time" that if you string a frame using a crank, you can simulate the result of a cp by pulling tension 3 times. That is exactly the same principle: removing most of the plastic/lasting elongation of the string.
10 times looks like sufficient. If that did not work, try 20 times. (an easier method would be to tension 10 times with a 50% higher tension as the calibration tension).
I did some tests on a crank years ago, more then enough to find out the limitations of that system. I'm still (and will ever be) a happy Stringway user.
@Irvin posted "once upon a time" that if you string a frame using a crank, you can simulate the result of a cp by pulling tension 3 times. That is exactly the same principle: removing most of the plastic/lasting elongation of the string.
10 times looks like sufficient. If that did not work, try 20 times
. (an easier method would be to tension 10 times with a 50% higher tension as the calibration tension).I did some tests on a crank years ago, more then enough to find out the limitations of that system. I'm still (and will ever be) a happy Stringway user.
MathieuR
Hall of Fame
@Irvin , you state one thing, and then you show a video that "proves" my point. Pulling 2 or 3 times on a crank removes the loss of tension caused by the lasting elongation (elastic elongation is unchanged.)
.
No, not all. "Most" of the plastic/lasting elongation that is linked to that specific ref.tension is removed. Therefore, to get same result on a crank you have to increase ref.tension (or pull each string 2-3 times)
Elastic elongation is NEVER removed.(the elasticity is "keeping" the stringtension. Without elasticity it would be impossible to tension a string)
David Hughes
New User
Thanks for the tips all, advice taken and have managed to calibrate my Comet.
5th_league
New User
Hi all, I’m considering to purchase PP Tomcat standalone stringing machine...I’m a beginner.
Are there any nice videos to see how the whole stringing process could be done with Tomcat?
Thanks!
Are there any nice videos to see how the whole stringing process could be done with Tomcat?
Thanks!
SiemonSays
New User
I'm also thinking about buying the Tomcat, would love to hear everything about the machine from someone with first-hand experience.
