ZhengJieisagoddess
Semi-Pro
The 003 is a fine racquet. I have five, in case I ever needed to switch...The problem is, they are all strung with poly, so I do not hit with them.
Yonex 110% Loyalty Tour
- Thread starter ZhengJieisagoddess
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The 003 is a fine racquet. I have five, in case I ever needed to switch...The problem is, they are all strung with poly, so I do not hit with them.
Soomerstime
New User
I love the 003 as well, with it being only $109 now I am thinking about getting number two and trying Weisscannon Explosiv in it to see the difference between that and x-1, which I love. If I don't try Explosiv, I may try one of the Klip hybrids.
advice
I have/waiting to arrive several older Yonex frames: RD-7, RX-32, R-22, TI80 abd RDX-500 Mid. So the following statements, while might not be so rigid anymore, are absolutely law for the older Yonex frames:
Facts:
- A Yonex frame must be strung in 2 pieces with 4 knots;
- A Yonex frame should, and also plays better (larger sweetspot), have crosses strung with 5% less tension that the mains.
Finally Yonex frames are more control frames when compared to others more inclined to power.
Now, polys in mains should be 5 to 10% less than crosses (synthetic gut/multi/natural gut). This is absolutely forbidden in Yonex frames unless you wish your older frames to crack sooner or later.
The alternative is polys in crosses??? Is it even worth it?
If one uses gut or Multi in mains what is the advantage of polys in crosses when compared for example to a Synthetic gut like PSGD?
Of course a set in 2 pieces of Natural gut or high multi would be quite expensive . So what is the cheap alternative in crosses? Poly? What are the advantages, if any at all besides price.
Babolat VS and Tornado would be my first choice normally... but in a Yonex and having to change the gut to mains... I really don´t know if a Synthetic gut like PSGD wouldn´t be better in the crosses just for a matter of money of course... no other benefits I can see for a Hybrid of this kind.
Advices?
I have/waiting to arrive several older Yonex frames: RD-7, RX-32, R-22, TI80 abd RDX-500 Mid. So the following statements, while might not be so rigid anymore, are absolutely law for the older Yonex frames:
Facts:
- A Yonex frame must be strung in 2 pieces with 4 knots;
- A Yonex frame should, and also plays better (larger sweetspot), have crosses strung with 5% less tension that the mains.
Finally Yonex frames are more control frames when compared to others more inclined to power.
Now, polys in mains should be 5 to 10% less than crosses (synthetic gut/multi/natural gut). This is absolutely forbidden in Yonex frames unless you wish your older frames to crack sooner or later.
The alternative is polys in crosses??? Is it even worth it?
If one uses gut or Multi in mains what is the advantage of polys in crosses when compared for example to a Synthetic gut like PSGD?
Of course a set in 2 pieces of Natural gut or high multi would be quite expensive . So what is the cheap alternative in crosses? Poly? What are the advantages, if any at all besides price.
Babolat VS and Tornado would be my first choice normally... but in a Yonex and having to change the gut to mains... I really don´t know if a Synthetic gut like PSGD wouldn´t be better in the crosses just for a matter of money of course... no other benefits I can see for a Hybrid of this kind.
Advices?
I'm also going to consider the RDX-500 MP (my pro shop has two unused ones for sale). While it will be heavier than the RDS-003 it is quite a deal more flexible (I prefer either heavy and flexible or light and stiff).
JackB1
G.O.A.T.
in case anyone here is interested in picking up a RDIS 300.....http://s221.photobucket.com/albums/d...k592285/Yonex/
travlerajm
Talk Tennis Guru
Just ordered a RDS001 mp, since the price is good now.
I don't have much experience with Yonex frames. I demo'ed the RDX500 mp (felt similar to my stock NXG OS - nice spin on groundies, but too flexy for serves and volleys). And also tried the 003, but I couldn't get it to feel right (didn't like the extra length).
I'm hoping that the RDS001 mp might play similary to my diablo mid (I like the thin beam and crisp feel a lot), but with a slightly larger more forgiving head size. Of course, I plan to modify mine a lot since I know my tastes. I plan to shorten it 1/4", add about an ounce of lead the upper hoop to get to 365+ SW, and add plenty of weight to the upper handle until it's almost 14 oz. so it swings around nice and easily.
I'm starting out with Kevlar 17g/Redcode 17 at 53/52.
I don't have much experience with Yonex frames. I demo'ed the RDX500 mp (felt similar to my stock NXG OS - nice spin on groundies, but too flexy for serves and volleys). And also tried the 003, but I couldn't get it to feel right (didn't like the extra length).
I'm hoping that the RDS001 mp might play similary to my diablo mid (I like the thin beam and crisp feel a lot), but with a slightly larger more forgiving head size. Of course, I plan to modify mine a lot since I know my tastes. I plan to shorten it 1/4", add about an ounce of lead the upper hoop to get to 365+ SW, and add plenty of weight to the upper handle until it's almost 14 oz. so it swings around nice and easily.
I'm starting out with Kevlar 17g/Redcode 17 at 53/52.
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I think you'd be much better served if you bought one of the older Yonex frames that are still available on e-bay. In particular, the RQ-180 would be an excellent candidate as it already has a good bit of weight to it (over 12oz) and a much, much healthier swingweight.
Also, if you simply remove the buttcap you'll have reduced the length by about 1/4 of an inch but still have a saleable frame (if you decide you don't want to keep it).
travlerajm
Talk Tennis Guru
But those other frames wouldn't have the properties I am looking for, namely a thin beam with medium-high stiffness. Also, I like to start out with a light frame with very little weight in the lower half of the hoop and throat. This allows me to add more mass to the upper half of the hoop where it's most desirable, and allows me more flexibility to get the balance I want.
And I don't really worry too much about resale value, as the mod's I do seem to increase the value of the frame - when I want to sell a shortened, heavily leaded, and well-balanced frame, I just let someone at the public courts try it out for a few strokes... sold!
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Murray_fan1
Professional
Update:Turbo Twist in my RQiS
I tried at different set up in my RQiS 95 XL and as promised decided I would post my thoughts. Although I have previously raved at about this string I am not sure if this is the set up I would choose for this stick. Don't get me wrong I still think Turbo twist is an excellent co-poly but after playing with a stick freshly strung with Alu I am not sure anything will compare favorably. Turbo twist definitely packs a serious punch but the control element ( spin production) seems to be lacking when compared to the Alu. With alu at the same tension (54lbs) I feel much more confident when taking big cuts at the ball, where as I felt I needed to hold back a little with Turbo twist. I will juice up the tension a bit and try again before discounting the turbo twist for this stick. I would recommend this string if you are new to poly or like multifilament strings and are looking for more durability with slightly more control.
Ratings:
Power:9/10 no power lacking from this string. I think in the power department it is more like a multifilament than a poly.
Control:7/10It may have a lot to due with the lower tension. I did not have the confidence to take big cuts at the ball as I did with alu at the same tension (54lbs) . I will try again at a higher tension to see how much this improves.
Spin:7/10 Spin production was o.k but no where near as good as promised. This is supposed to be one of the main characteristics of this string but sadly I found my shots had less spin than the Alu did.
Feel/Touch:8/10 This is one characteristic I did notice a considerable difference to a regular co-poly. I had noticeably more feel on Drop shots, touch volleys etc with this string. I think this would make a good entry into the poly world for someone that is used to a multifilament.
Tension maintenance: To be determined After two hours with this set up I could not feel any noticeable drop in tension. I expect this to be better than average as all Weiss products I have tried in the past seem to have excellent tension maintenance.
Durability: To be determined String has not broken yet but has noticeable notching. I don't think this will last another 2 hr session.
Next up in the quest to find the ultimate set up : Weiss Silver String
I tried at different set up in my RQiS 95 XL and as promised decided I would post my thoughts. Although I have previously raved at about this string I am not sure if this is the set up I would choose for this stick. Don't get me wrong I still think Turbo twist is an excellent co-poly but after playing with a stick freshly strung with Alu I am not sure anything will compare favorably. Turbo twist definitely packs a serious punch but the control element ( spin production) seems to be lacking when compared to the Alu. With alu at the same tension (54lbs) I feel much more confident when taking big cuts at the ball, where as I felt I needed to hold back a little with Turbo twist. I will juice up the tension a bit and try again before discounting the turbo twist for this stick. I would recommend this string if you are new to poly or like multifilament strings and are looking for more durability with slightly more control.
Ratings:
Power:9/10 no power lacking from this string. I think in the power department it is more like a multifilament than a poly.
Control:7/10It may have a lot to due with the lower tension. I did not have the confidence to take big cuts at the ball as I did with alu at the same tension (54lbs) . I will try again at a higher tension to see how much this improves.
Spin:7/10 Spin production was o.k but no where near as good as promised. This is supposed to be one of the main characteristics of this string but sadly I found my shots had less spin than the Alu did.
Feel/Touch:8/10 This is one characteristic I did notice a considerable difference to a regular co-poly. I had noticeably more feel on Drop shots, touch volleys etc with this string. I think this would make a good entry into the poly world for someone that is used to a multifilament.
Tension maintenance: To be determined After two hours with this set up I could not feel any noticeable drop in tension. I expect this to be better than average as all Weiss products I have tried in the past seem to have excellent tension maintenance.
Durability: To be determined String has not broken yet but has noticeable notching. I don't think this will last another 2 hr session.
Next up in the quest to find the ultimate set up : Weiss Silver String
Yeah, sure they do.
Murray_fan1
Professional
Rosheem
Are you planning on sticking with full bed of Silverstring? I just strung up my stick with this and hope it fairs better than the turbo twist.
WOW, It is the third time I ask a question in this Yonex thread but it seems that if it is not racket directly associated one will absolutely be ignored...
Maybe I should say instead that my R-22 arrived followed by some nice pictures so that people will start asking questions and a fellow won´t feel absolutely ignored. Fortunetly I didn´t write the post for nothing since I started a thread with the same question in the string section with at least far success than here. I posted it also here since Yonex friends would have morre knowledge on the yonex particular "situation" about stringing it.
Wish you all the best...
zapvor
G.O.A.T.
My own story: I grew up with a Jack KraMer Pro Staff and switched to a Donnay Borg Pro (should have stayed with the Kramer, or tried the Dunlop Maxply Fort). Stayed away from tennis for 26 years and then got an inexpensive Prince Triple Threat and the Wilson [K] Blade Team. This racquet was not as manueverable as I wanted, and then I fell in love...
I saw Jie Zheng* playing on TV. With a Yonex RDiS 300. I HAD to demo this racquet; I was so impressed bythe power this tiny 5'4"dynamo could get out of this racquet.
At first, i couldn't notice much difference with the Wilson KB Team. But then I started hitting at balls that were in awkward places -- and the difference became manifest immediately.
After flirting with the RDS 003 (which I bought, undemoed, because they were similar in specs and...ON SALE !!), and briefly considering a Babolat, I have settled on the RDiS 300. It is heavy enough, yet much easier to swing than the RDS003. To alleviate arm symptoms, following the advice of the stringer at my local shop, I put NXT on it and felt the difference immediately.
I love Yonex, its quality and have the ultra-cool Yonex Beijing 2008 red and yellow bag. The only problem is, now I have too many Yonex racquets to fit in it!!!
But that's a nice problem to have...
*This is the westernized version of her name; the Chinese way is Zheng (last name) Jie. It actually sounds better that way.
have you met her in person? i am thnking about switching to a rds001 myself actually.
Sounds like we have a similar game. Don't know your rating but I'm about a 5.0. I use the RDS 001 (1st version) and love it. Have tried the RQiS but find it too flexy. I also volley a good bit so I generally prefer stiffer low powered racquets, which is exactly what the RDS 001 is. The price is amazing now. You need to try both racquets again though. They play very differently.
ZhengJieisagoddess
Semi-Pro
I think you'll find people on here ar every helpful, but to be quite honest, your question is so dense from a technical point of view that I doubt there are all that many who can understand what you are asking. I sure do not.
E
Edstringer13
Guest
Only way to find out is testing,but that's a change for the better.You may try RDS 001 mid,this one will fit you good,and it's a player's racquet,small,heavy,a lot of control and topspin access,touch,feel,it's awesome,but you'll always be right no matter what racket you choose,by choosing Yonex.:twisted:
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Thank you for your answer. At least I´m sure my posts are not only visible to me
I really do not think that my post is that complicated. You might not understand it because English is not my home language and of course that is perfectly understandable.
Anyway, thank you for answering my call. I apreciate it
ZhengJieisagoddess
Semi-Pro
Thank you for your answer. At least I´m sure my posts are not only visible to me
I really do not think that my post is that complicated. You might not understand it because English is not my home language and of course that is perfectly understandable.
Anyway, thank you for answering my call. I apreciate it
I kind of figured that. Actually, your English is pretty good! But it does seem to be a techinical question -- I just tell my stringer to string my racquet with NXT at my specified tension, and let him do the rest...
If it's the third time then that should tell you that you're either not making your question clear enough OR you're asking it in the wrong forum. In other words, it's you, not us.
Firstly, learn to put a space between paragraphs. Looks a lot neater and is easier to read. Easier to read equals more likely to be answered.
Secondly, you've got a stringing question so you should ask it in the appropriate forum. Just because this one is dedicated to Yonex racquets doesn't mean that anyone will know the frames you mention or have much clue about strings.
Thirdly, ask your question up front, at the beginning of your post.
You got to be kidding right?
You´re telling me that a Yonex user will ask his stringer to make an hybrid of poly mains and whatever crosses and wouldn´t have any concern in ending with 10% lower tension in the mains??? In a Yonex frame????
Next you´re going to tell me that he also don´t care if it is strung one piece and from throat to top... I wonder who fault they think it is when the frame cracks or doesn´t play the same because of the deformation it suffered along that period of abuse.
Plus this is general to all Yonex, not the ones I described. I was just stating that even more carefull one should be with older ones.
Finally, as I stated in my original post, I also did it in the respective forum. Just decided to post it here also since it seemed that Yonex users might be more sensible to this matter.
The rest of your post is not an excuse to not get any kind of answer at all, but thank you for the advice anyway. I just wonder how your posts would look like in a french, portuguese and italian forums since those are languages that I master well beyond the english one.
You´re telling me that a Yonex user will ask his stringer to make an hybrid of poly mains and whatever crosses and wouldn´t have any concern in ending with 10% lower tension in the mains??? In a Yonex frame????
Next you´re going to tell me that he also don´t care if it is strung one piece and from throat to top... I wonder who fault they think it is when the frame cracks or doesn´t play the same because of the deformation it suffered along that period of abuse.
Plus this is general to all Yonex, not the ones I described. I was just stating that even more carefull one should be with older ones.
Finally, as I stated in my original post, I also did it in the respective forum. Just decided to post it here also since it seemed that Yonex users might be more sensible to this matter.
The rest of your post is not an excuse to not get any kind of answer at all, but thank you for the advice anyway. I just wonder how your posts would look like in a french, portuguese and italian forums since those are languages that I master well beyond the english one.
ZhengJieisagoddess
Semi-Pro
??? Where is the poster telling you this?
Look, we have tried to answer your questions. If you are not satisfied with the answer, by all means, take the question elsewhere.
But people have indeed taken time to answer your incomprehensible posts, only to be thanked with impatience and rudeness.
I had thought that, in dealing with people of other cultures, that Americans had the monopoly on being rude.
I was quite, quite, mistaken.
Can you see how much easier that is to read?
Firstly, I have no idea what you're talking about (the bit about strings). No-one made any claims about Yonex users and there isn't any language that allows you to put words in the mouth of someone else. If you don't understand what I've said, ask me to clarify - that's just manners.
If I were writing in a French, Italian, Portugese, etc forum then I would do exactly the same thing. Just ask your question clearly and simply. Don't jam the paragraphs together. Don't start by telling people they must do something and then ask your question. If you do, they'll stop reading at the point they either disagree with you or believe it doesn't apply to them.
Finally, don't assume that people have an answer to your question but are ignoring you. The reality is that they probably don't know so they don't respond (that is the sensible thing to do). Much, much better to get no answer than an uninformed one. It just means you need to look in a different area (part of the message board).
Yonex grip question
Yonex grip question
Hoping that people with experience of the last few Yonex lines - RDX, RDS and RDiS- will be able to help.
My RDS-001 MP is grip size 3/8. However, when I replace the original grip (I find the Yonex too thin and doesn't last very long) with just a basic synthetic grip the grip size jumps up quite noticably. Depending on the synthetic grip I choose it can pretty well go up to 1/2. Never experienced that with any other brand. It seem as though they make the handle pallet larger than other brands and compensate with a thinner grip whereas other brands make a smaller pallet in order to allow for, what you could call, a 'standard' replacement grip.
Is it just my racquet or is this typical of other RDX, RDS and RDiS frames?
Yonex grip question
Hoping that people with experience of the last few Yonex lines - RDX, RDS and RDiS- will be able to help.
My RDS-001 MP is grip size 3/8. However, when I replace the original grip (I find the Yonex too thin and doesn't last very long) with just a basic synthetic grip the grip size jumps up quite noticably. Depending on the synthetic grip I choose it can pretty well go up to 1/2. Never experienced that with any other brand. It seem as though they make the handle pallet larger than other brands and compensate with a thinner grip whereas other brands make a smaller pallet in order to allow for, what you could call, a 'standard' replacement grip.
Is it just my racquet or is this typical of other RDX, RDS and RDiS frames?
Peter Szucs
Semi-Pro
Its exactly how you described, Yonex stock replacement grip is very thin compared to other brands resulting in a more firm handle and better ball feel.
edwincen
Rookie
Yap, i found this problem too, want to find a grip that similar to the original one.
1) I really don´t know where I was rude. I guess you are a little sensible. Never ofended you in any way.
2) Your first answer seems a little sarcastic and rude in answering in a public forum about how I should write and how to structure my posts. I see that you answer several posts which by no means are in conformity with your "standards". That is why I said, that alone, was not an excuse for no answers.
3) I never said that in my last post I was answering something you said. I never put any words in your mouth. You said that people might not understand the tecnicalities of my question. My answer was directed to that point! I just made a simple question in my starting post and that is the following:
- A Yonex user should be aware of the Yonex head partcularities and the most important one is that crosses should be 5% lower tensioned that mains.
- As most people uses poly in the mains and it is known that it should be 10% lower that any other string in the crosses, how do you get around this? This is the totally oposite that Yonex advices in using on their frames.
So by people not understanding this in my original post is the same to say that they don´t know about this important Yonex feature and therefore the reason I started my last post as I did. Do you understand? I didn´t state at any point that you said that. But by your answer I realised that you were saying that people wouldn´t understabd a basic knowledge about using Yonex frames. And that is the same as to say that they don´t care if the maisn are 10% lower than crosses when it should be almost the all way around.
If you think this is trivial and people do not have to know this stuff, than I rest my case and won´t jump in this thread again. I was, on the contrary, under the impression that it was the ideal thread to post about Yonex particular sensible frames. The string question (brand) was a secondary question.
I apologise if my English won´t allow me to express myself as clear as you do but I have seen many people post much worse than I do and get tons of answers just because the subject was maybe more interesting in a futile way instead of learning the best way to preserve what we have.
So by the lack of understanding in this matter I assume that people do not care much about those sort of information, relying totally on the stringer good sense when stringing a Yonex frame. Maybe in the North American Continent every stringer is a center of knowledge but I assure you that in Europe and particulary in my country that is the other way around, so we might want to know this simple but effective details if we don´t want our frames cracked or deformed after a few months.
Finally, to the other poster that criticed other non american by generalising a very old civilisation based on a single post in this forum, please... it is you who are being rude. Do not pretend to think you know other countries and costumes and using it in a sarcastic way to defend your own country. I never said here or anywhere that american were rudes nor do I know anyone here in Europe that says that. So I don´t know where you got that idea but it seems that is you that are putting words in others mouth.
Thank you anyway.
JackB1
G.O.A.T.
I never heard this before. Does the 5% apply to multi's? So for example if I string the mains at 55, I should string the crosses at 52?
I asked my stringer about stringing crosses less and he said it was a bad idea and if the crosses are looser, your mains will move around a lot.
JackB1
G.O.A.T.
Try the Babolat Skin Feel Replacement grip. It's very thin and should leave your overall grip size intact.
Finally, I have no interest in fighting you or anyone else especially around here.
Threads should be around tennis subjects and not endless and meaningless "word fights" to see who has got bigger egos. I won´t bother any of you with my totally "encrypted enigmas".
If those posts served to at least a single yonex user who didn´t know about some sensible caracteristics about the frame he uses I will be more than happy.
Maybe next time he will go to his stringer he might just mention to be carefull about the following aspects:
- Tension in mains compared to crosses. 5% lower in crosses (this also has the bonus of giving you a larger sweetspot). Or at least same tensions. Understand that crosses shouldn´t at any point have higher tensions than mains. So beware when you ask for poly in mains and NG/multi in crosses;
- The ideal is to string in 2 pieces with 4 knots and always start the crosses from top to bottom. Even if you still want a one piece job at least try to have an ATW pattern done. This way you will have always the crosses started in the top of your frame
those simple observations talked to your stringer might endure your beloved frame for a few more years if he ´wasn´t aware of how to string Yonex frames in the first place.
Just want to finish by thanking you about the posting ideas. I´m always looking forward to learn more than I know. I just realise that you could have transmited the idea in a more gentle way and not, what felt to me, with a little of prepotence, (again I apologise if that was not your intention). It is always very hard to give the right measure to words when we can´t see face expressions, voice tones and so on... I guess this is the downside of forums and many times why there are so many word fights online. Most of the times it is just simple misunderstanding issues.
Thank you.
Threads should be around tennis subjects and not endless and meaningless "word fights" to see who has got bigger egos. I won´t bother any of you with my totally "encrypted enigmas".
If those posts served to at least a single yonex user who didn´t know about some sensible caracteristics about the frame he uses I will be more than happy.
Maybe next time he will go to his stringer he might just mention to be carefull about the following aspects:
- Tension in mains compared to crosses. 5% lower in crosses (this also has the bonus of giving you a larger sweetspot). Or at least same tensions. Understand that crosses shouldn´t at any point have higher tensions than mains. So beware when you ask for poly in mains and NG/multi in crosses;
- The ideal is to string in 2 pieces with 4 knots and always start the crosses from top to bottom. Even if you still want a one piece job at least try to have an ATW pattern done. This way you will have always the crosses started in the top of your frame
those simple observations talked to your stringer might endure your beloved frame for a few more years if he ´wasn´t aware of how to string Yonex frames in the first place.
Just want to finish by thanking you about the posting ideas. I´m always looking forward to learn more than I know. I just realise that you could have transmited the idea in a more gentle way and not, what felt to me, with a little of prepotence, (again I apologise if that was not your intention). It is always very hard to give the right measure to words when we can´t see face expressions, voice tones and so on... I guess this is the downside of forums and many times why there are so many word fights online. Most of the times it is just simple misunderstanding issues.
Thank you.
Glad to get your curiosity flowing.
Until a while ago Yonex stated this observation oficialy. With newer Yonex frames they don´t state it anymore but if you contact them they still advice for it. If you have older frames you should be aware of this.
But please do not take my word on this. Go to the stringing forum and do a search just with the yonex word. You should be astonished with the results and by the many threads covering this matter with technical explanations from many users and some very well known stringers around the world.
Keep in mind that even more important is the crosses having to be started at top and never in the throat! This error might crack your Yonex frame instantly due to a lot of pressure being put on the sensible throat.
But please just search a little and you´ll see that this is common knowledge at least on the stringing forum.
And if you want some other forums opinions just go to stringing forums. net and you´ll just get the same ideas, over and over again.
Then after getting the general idea, just ask your stringer how he strings your Yonex. You might be surprised and even scocked by the answer. But I sincerily hope not.
Thank you for taking interest.
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You can also check this by doing a little web search. When you search on the web for the ideal pattern for your racket (where start crosses, tie-holes and so on) depdending on your source (there are many), you will puzzle yourself why many of those sources just gives indications about a 2 piece stringing job and not for just a piece with 2 knots. This is because Yonex do not advice for one stringing job but for 2 instead.
This is why hybrids are so popular among Yonex users and even when stringing only a multi or whatever they still do it in a 2 pieces with 4 knots and a slight lower tension in the crosses. I repeat, with also the bonus of a larger sweetspot by reducing the crosses tension compared to mains.
This is why I see many Yonex users putting Poly in crosses instead of mains which is the most popular standard.
Let´s make an example:
A multi string at 55 pounds:
- 2 pieces with 4 knots;
- mains tension: 55 pounds
- crosses tension: 52/53 pounds (at the most you just do it the same if you really insist - with newer Yonex frames that shouldn´t be a problem)
A poly/multi Hybrid:
- 2 pieces with 4 knots;
- Mains tension: 55 (multi)
- Crosses tension: 49/50 (poly - 10% lower)
A poly/multi Hybrid (the popluar way)
- 2 pieces with 4 knots;
- Mains tension:49/50 (poly - 10% lower)
- Crosses tension: 55 (multi)
What the hell???????? This goes absolutely against all Yonex racomendation and might severely damage your yonex frame.... how do you go around this?
Now do you see my question in the original post that started all this fight
Please just search a little on this important matter in my opinion.
This is why hybrids are so popular among Yonex users and even when stringing only a multi or whatever they still do it in a 2 pieces with 4 knots and a slight lower tension in the crosses. I repeat, with also the bonus of a larger sweetspot by reducing the crosses tension compared to mains.
This is why I see many Yonex users putting Poly in crosses instead of mains which is the most popular standard.
Let´s make an example:
A multi string at 55 pounds:
- 2 pieces with 4 knots;
- mains tension: 55 pounds
- crosses tension: 52/53 pounds (at the most you just do it the same if you really insist - with newer Yonex frames that shouldn´t be a problem)
A poly/multi Hybrid:
- 2 pieces with 4 knots;
- Mains tension: 55 (multi)
- Crosses tension: 49/50 (poly - 10% lower)
A poly/multi Hybrid (the popluar way)
- 2 pieces with 4 knots;
- Mains tension:49/50 (poly - 10% lower)
- Crosses tension: 55 (multi)
What the hell???????? This goes absolutely against all Yonex racomendation and might severely damage your yonex frame.... how do you go around this?
Now do you see my question in the original post that started all this fight
Please just search a little on this important matter in my opinion.
ayuname
Semi-Pro
You tecnically don't have to have your poly strung at 10% lower at all. Pete Sampras had his racquet strung at 70 with natural gut.
It's really all just based on preference. In my RDS003's, I strung one with a hybrid of Blue Gear/Gosen 17 at 58/62 and the other with Cyberflash/Gosen 17 at 58/62 as well.
Basically, forget the rules and recommendations and just go for what feels right.
It's really all just based on preference. In my RDS003's, I strung one with a hybrid of Blue Gear/Gosen 17 at 58/62 and the other with Cyberflash/Gosen 17 at 58/62 as well.
Basically, forget the rules and recommendations and just go for what feels right.
JackB1
G.O.A.T.
Interesting.
So if I just use a multi (tennis elbow), then I should tell my stringer to use 2 pieces with 4 knots and to string the crosses 5% lower?
If I wanted to try a hybrid, all multi setup, would there be any benefit other than using a cheaper string in the crosses?
AD, I use the exact same racquet and know exactly what you're talking about. The best solution I have to the enlarging grip problem is to use gamma's hi-tec replacment grip and stretch it out when wrapping it. I find the cushioning better but still firm and the grip barely gets bigger. On top of that, after a week of playing, the grip gets smaller.
Murray_fan1
Professional
I found the same thing. The demo RQiS I purchased had a head leather grip installed with an overgrip. Grip size size was a 4 1/4 but felt like 4 1/2. I replaced with prince resipro and found it to be exactly the same as the new RQiS.
I have a question. what are the drawbacks of the Yonex RDS 002 Tour? I know it's supposed to provide great spin. What about control? What about power? Is it as powerful as the Babolat Pure Storm Tour GT?
When they come out with a new RDIS 002 tour, how will it be better? thanks
When they come out with a new RDIS 002 tour, how will it be better? thanks
Peter Szucs
Semi-Pro
I suggest you use the stock grip until it wears out and then replace it with the retail Yonex replacement grip (put it on with minimal overlap).
Besides cost I don´t see any obvious advantage of changing string in crosses when all multi is your objective. You just do this in order to protect your frame from unecessary and dangerous stress to the frame. There is no other purpose.
It is also very interesting the idea of another poster that Poly doesn´t need to be strung lower than you multi/nat. gut/ synth gut.
I will try the same set of hybrid with poly in crosses and then in multi without lowering the tension. This way I could have at least both mains and crosses at the same tension not risking the frame integrity. Let´s see if this set behaviour will suit me. If not, I guess I will just stick poly in the crosses, where the lower tension is no problem at all. By the contrary, it goes exactily the way Yonex advice.
Glpsace is absolutely correct regarding the two piece stringing and tension variance on mains and crosses. Yonex did, indeed, advise owners to string in this fashion on earlier racquet models.
I remember hearing this (and later, reading it, too) when I started using the RDS001, but cannot recollect the source. It probably came from a D3 coach/teaching pro who was instructing my son at the time; he did most of our stringing as well. I also remember being told not to worrry about it as long as I stayed in the recommended tension range for the stick. As I recall, this was more of a warranty issue than an actual problem, given the high quality of Yonex racquets.
Glpsace is right, too, in that I don't recall similar admonitions concerning the RDiS 100, which I now use. Currently, I do my own stringing. I lessen the tension on the crosses maybe 50% of the time, and string a uniform bed the remainder. I haven't noticed any changes in the size of the sweetspot by lessening the tension of the crosses, nor have I experienced any damage to the frames of any of my Yonexes. This is true, at least in my experience, regarding the RDS001's as well.
I suspect that the manufacturer's concerns may be more germane to older racquet models, given slightly different use of materials and more pronounced "isometric" shape. This, of course, is just speculation on my part.
Glpsace, your command of English is quite good. Unfortunately, modern English uses a lot of colloquialisms and double meanings. Plus, Americans have a tendency to read between the lines, thus devining an author's true intent. We don't always get it right. Bear with us and we'll bear with you
Anyway, if anyone says you are too wordy, you are not alone. Something we can both work on, aye? Rough crowd around here at times.
I remember hearing this (and later, reading it, too) when I started using the RDS001, but cannot recollect the source. It probably came from a D3 coach/teaching pro who was instructing my son at the time; he did most of our stringing as well. I also remember being told not to worrry about it as long as I stayed in the recommended tension range for the stick. As I recall, this was more of a warranty issue than an actual problem, given the high quality of Yonex racquets.
Glpsace is right, too, in that I don't recall similar admonitions concerning the RDiS 100, which I now use. Currently, I do my own stringing. I lessen the tension on the crosses maybe 50% of the time, and string a uniform bed the remainder. I haven't noticed any changes in the size of the sweetspot by lessening the tension of the crosses, nor have I experienced any damage to the frames of any of my Yonexes. This is true, at least in my experience, regarding the RDS001's as well.
I suspect that the manufacturer's concerns may be more germane to older racquet models, given slightly different use of materials and more pronounced "isometric" shape. This, of course, is just speculation on my part.
Glpsace, your command of English is quite good. Unfortunately, modern English uses a lot of colloquialisms and double meanings. Plus, Americans have a tendency to read between the lines, thus devining an author's true intent. We don't always get it right. Bear with us and we'll bear with you
Anyway, if anyone says you are too wordy, you are not alone. Something we can both work on, aye? Rough crowd around here at times.
Okay, so I'm not imagining things. I'll just have to drop down a grip size.
I'll just drop down a grip size next time.
Peter, I wouldn't agree that it gives better feel. A clearer feel of the bevels, yes, but for me feel comes from the string bed, not the handle. Personally, I find it rather uncomfortable, especially as the RDS-001 MP is a bit on the stiff side.
Peter Szucs
Semi-Pro
What i meant to say is a general term.: thinner replacement grip will reduce shock of ball impact less resulting in more impulse transmitted to your arm --> increased feel of connection to the ball compared to thick grips.
I agree with you on the RDS001 stiffness... i actually found it to harsh on my arm and the thin grip certainly did not help. the rds003 is a different story though.
The RDS-003 is the other one I'm looking at. My only query is the extended length. 1/4 of an inch isn't much but I still find it upsets my timing on groundstrokes (not a problem at net or on serve).
My other option is the RDX-500 MP (our pro shop has a brand new one). Not entirely sure.
Peter Szucs
Semi-Pro
I was under the impression that you were after decreasing static weight from the rds001mp. the rdx500mp is similar in weight to the rds001 so that wont fit your query, despite its a great frame as well.
JackB1
G.O.A.T.
Why not the RDiS 300? It's an updated version of the RDS003 and its 27"
Soomerstime
New User
So how many of us are going to demo the S-Fit series when they come out? I am probably going to wait till springtime unless we have a mild winter. I am going to demo the S-Fit 1 and if I like it, its going to become my 2nd Yonex. If it doesn't float my boat I am going to get me another one of the 003.
Have another question has anyone tried out the Yonex shoes? My Nikes are on their last leg and thought I would give them a try if people have had positive experiences with them.
Have another question has anyone tried out the Yonex shoes? My Nikes are on their last leg and thought I would give them a try if people have had positive experiences with them.
klementine
Hall of Fame
The Head Shape Scared Me !!! but now....
I've always shyed away from Yonex frames. Have only demo'd (a long time ago) the RDS001mid and mid+.. found both of them very low-powered, but nice sticks.
Last night I demo'd (during match play) the RDiS100mid. What in the name of godzilla????
The stick was a monster... Had a very nice 'THWACK' sound, stiff yet comfortable. Powerful yet absorbed the ball well. The frame is supposedly a 93sq.in. , but it plays much bigger. The most comfortable mid for 2hbh's I have ever played.
I'll have the demo until Monday (unfortunately can't leave the house tonight). Any words of advice or thoughts from the club about this frame?
Seriously considering switching from my MGPresMids.
I've always shyed away from Yonex frames. Have only demo'd (a long time ago) the RDS001mid and mid+.. found both of them very low-powered, but nice sticks.
Last night I demo'd (during match play) the RDiS100mid. What in the name of godzilla????
The stick was a monster... Had a very nice 'THWACK' sound, stiff yet comfortable. Powerful yet absorbed the ball well. The frame is supposedly a 93sq.in. , but it plays much bigger. The most comfortable mid for 2hbh's I have ever played.
I'll have the demo until Monday (unfortunately can't leave the house tonight). Any words of advice or thoughts from the club about this frame?
Seriously considering switching from my MGPresMids.
I was, but that was before the RDX500 became an option.
Reason being that, with a stiff racquet I can get away with less weight (as in, 11oz instead of 12oz) as the stiffness compensates (in regards to power) for the decrease in mass. With a more flexible racquet I can handle more weight because the flex compensates (in regards to control) for the increase in mass.
A racquet that is stiff and heavy becomes a problem because, if you're at all late on the ball (something which can happen until you get your timing right - and when I'm only playing once a week my timing is the thing that goes) the shot flies. A flexible racquet of the same weight allows you to be a bit late on the shot but holds/pockets the ball so you can still retain control while you're finding your timing.
The other consideration is that it might just be worth a try. Even when I'm playing daily and have no issues with the RDS-001 MP's weight, the stiffness is higher than I'd like. Perhaps the RDX-500 MP is the best option (I don't want 95sq so not looking at the RQis Tour).
It's on my list, but haven't been able to locate a demo in my part of Australia and I need to try before I'll buy.
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Yes, I will stick with the full Silverstring setup.
By the way, thanks for posting that detailed review of TurboTwist. Sounds like too much power for me.
As I mentioned before, the first 2-3 hours with Silverstring is amazing. After that, it seems like the tension starts to drop and continues to drop. I'm probably going on about 12 hours with my current string job. It's still okay for drills and hitting around, but I have a match tomorrow and will most definitely restring before that.
I need to get one of those ERT things so I can get some objective measurements to track my tension loss. Right now, my objective measurement is how many feet beyond the baseline my defensive lob lands.
I may go up to 62/60 on my next silverstring job.
Soomerstime
New User
Its a pretty sweet stick, I debated getting that or the 003 I am currently playing now. I would hit with it a couple more times, but sounds like we have another convert!
