best racket for hitting balls higher on racket
- Thread starter ruud5
- Start date
You should definitely demo the Yonex Vcore Tour 97 310g. The Yonex head shape has traditionally favored shots hit high in the hoop and the Tour 97's head shape favors these shots even more, especially with several grams of lead at 12 o'clock. The head on this frame is almost exactly like an upside-down Volkl hoop.
torpantennis
Legend
Put 5-6lbs less tension on crosses, that should move sweetspot higher.
fuzz nation
G.O.A.T.
In my experience, a racquet with an upside-down teardrop sort of head shape can be very good for catching the ball up toward the top of the string bed. No matter what the head shape though, I'd expect a string bed to respond better in just about any racquet if it had some weight added up at 12 o'clock.
A Yonex may also be good, but I've found that compared with a more oval shaped hoop, the somewhat squared off top of a typical Yonex can make for a sweet-spot that ends rather abruptly up toward the 12 o'clock end of the strings. The ones I've owned have seemed to have inherently wider sweet-spots, but didn't seem to have a gradual fall off up toward the top. Just my take on those - the proof is in the demos!
A Yonex may also be good, but I've found that compared with a more oval shaped hoop, the somewhat squared off top of a typical Yonex can make for a sweet-spot that ends rather abruptly up toward the 12 o'clock end of the strings. The ones I've owned have seemed to have inherently wider sweet-spots, but didn't seem to have a gradual fall off up toward the top. Just my take on those - the proof is in the demos!
Cengusiento
Rookie
The Head Youtek Graphene Speed S seems to fit to your desires perfectly: 100 sq in, 22mm beam, 285g (unstrung) It has a high value of Center of Percussion (what you are looking for).
I hit the balls about 2 cm above the middle (3/9 o' clock) when the racket is horizontal.
I can see it on the strings.
Ronaldo
Bionic Poster
Used and still own a Head iTour with an inverted teardrop shaped head.
fuzz nation
G.O.A.T.
I've enjoyed this shape myself with the old Prince NXG mid. If memory serves, I think the iPrestige mid had this hoop shape, too.
You can locate it mathematically. However, you don't want to. It was once believed that the center of percussion was very important in play. This belief had very solid theoretical underpinnings. But experiments later showed that as soon as you add the weight of the hand to the racquet the COP moves into the throat of the racquet and so is irrelevant in play (unless you customarily throw the racquet into the ball, or hit the ball with the racquet's throat).
What that poster may have been talking about is the vibration node. This can be found quite easily. An advanced search for "vibration node" should turn up some practical steps to locating the node. How important the location of the node is to a player is another matter, however. I think racquet engineers think about this, but few racquet customizers do, and almost no players. Personally, I think it can be important when doing extreme customization (lengthening and shortening racquets, for example.)
I'm interested to hear the responses for this. Wouldn't this contact point be ok if you are hitting topspin?
Is the correct spot to hit a ball in the middle of the stringbed?
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ringwraith
Rookie
I like the sweetspot higher up in the string bed as well, helps with the serve specially 
. Other than lead at 10 and 2 (that definitely helps), playing with a longer than 27" frame is also an alternative. That way you sort of hit lower down in the stringbed (relatively speaking) but the same distance out in front of the palm.
. Other than lead at 10 and 2 (that definitely helps), playing with a longer than 27" frame is also an alternative. That way you sort of hit lower down in the stringbed (relatively speaking) but the same distance out in front of the palm.
Ronaldo
Bionic Poster
Actually own a pr of both of these racquets. Suspect the iPrestige mid was strung bottoms up if it has that head shape.
Cengusiento
Rookie
The formula is: COP = SW / (m · r) , where
- SW = Swingweight (kgcm2)
- m = mass (kg)
- r = Balance point (cm) - axis of rotation (typically 10cm)
The higher the SW, the lower mass and the more HL the racket, the higher value of COP. The COP is the location in a racket where teorically you have zero impact in your hand (axis of rotation).
In court, there are a lot of variables that take into acount, like corners has posted.
Sorry, I was not clear enough (time_fly
.I hit the balls about 1.5 cm above the centre of the racket (on the horizontal line from about 9.30 tot 2.30).
What is therefore the best racket to play? I like the Londen but I Wish some more power.
I saw interesting some solutions:
- lower cross tension
- longer racket (maybe than I also shall hit the balls higher..!)
- teardrop racket
- lead on 10/2 (that is how I play now)
Teardrop racket looks me very interesting.
Wath is a good choice?
Which manufacturer made something?
Wishes:
- power
- control
- max. 100 inch
- small beam (about 20 mm)
thnks...
- that contact point is for me (deep groundstrokes and services (shortcross I hit the bal higher) ok. I want a racket that gives me more power on that point.
- correct spot: depends where you contact the bal..
counterpuncher
Hall of Fame
Very similar to my preference as I also hit high on the string bed, but the 20mm beam makes things tougher along with the 315g (which I assume is unstrung weight?)
Yonex racquets such as the Tour 97 310 (lower powered), Graphene Speed (22mm beam) and what I think is the closest to your London is the Pro Kennex QTour 295 with maybe a little lead (I have 4g at 3 and 9) and an overgrip or heavier replacement grip. It has similar flex, feel and spin to your London, but more power and a more uniform string bed IMO. This could be the replacement for my Donnay Pro One, which might be another candidate for you.
Just another thought for you, an extended length racquet (as was previously mentioned I see). This will mean you'll effectively hit lower down in the string bed and be given a power boost by the extra length. Something like the Donnay Silver extended or Wilson Pro Staff 100L might work with some lead and be worth a demo.
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What about the O3 rackets?
As others have stated, add 1 g at noon, 1 g at 10o'c, and 1 g at 2o'c and the top of the string bed is much livelier and stable. I have been doing similar to my rackets for last 2 years and really like it. You can offset with lead on the handle to get to preferred balance.
Davydenko use to drop tension on the top 5 crosses when he had his rackets strung. I think it was something like the top 5 crosses were 5 lbs below the rest of the cross. He though this made the string bed softer, livelier and more playable near the tip. I have never tried this.
Davydenko use to drop tension on the top 5 crosses when he had his rackets strung. I think it was something like the top 5 crosses were 5 lbs below the rest of the cross. He though this made the string bed softer, livelier and more playable near the tip. I have never tried this.
O3 rackets are solid and the 110 headsize give them a huge sweetspot. I have an 03 blue in the bag and I love to use it occassionally. Its light easy to hit and has tons of power. On sale now I think for $79.
Go demo a few and see what ya prefer.
Hi I'm Ray
Professional
IMO yonex rackets from recent years are better for hitting high in the stringbed and also seem to have a bigger sweet spot than tear drop shaped heads. The top 2 crosses on my yonex 100 are longer than the ones on my tear drop shaped prince 110's, w/the thrid cross being almost equal in length.
You can also string your top few crosses looser, say -3,-2,-1 lbs on the first three for example. Sounded weird to me at first but some ppl did their own "testing" and found that the crosses held their tension very well and didn't just spread/even out. I've been stringing my very flexible frames w/dead upper hoops this way w/very good & stable results.
You can also string your top few crosses looser, say -3,-2,-1 lbs on the first three for example. Sounded weird to me at first but some ppl did their own "testing" and found that the crosses held their tension very well and didn't just spread/even out. I've been stringing my very flexible frames w/dead upper hoops this way w/very good & stable results.
Cengusiento
Rookie
When you say string the last 3 crosses at a lowr tension, you mean with the same piece of a string?
Hi I'm Ray
Professional
Actually I wrote top few / first three crosses, but you can do it for the last few crosses too (in reverse: -1,-2,-3) if you also have a dead lower hoop or just hit a lot of shots there. And yes, same piece of cross string. Google "proportional stringing". One of the top results happens to be a short article from a competitor's site and funny enough they also mention Yonex's isometric design. Anyways, I don't make it anywhere near as complicated as some ppl do w/tension calculations, I just do -3,-2,-1 on the first 3 crosses for dead upper hoops.. Or sometimes up to 4-5 strings on rackets with tiny sweetspots/uneven stringbed response (sometimes top and bottom crosses, depending on the racket).
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rlau
Hall of Fame
Prince Exo3 Tour seems to match your criteria.
rlau
Hall of Fame
Sorry, I meant this one:
http://www.tenniswarehouse-europe.com/descpageRCPRINCEH-PE3TR.html
There's also a 18x20 and a lighter Team version.
http://www.tenniswarehouse-europe.com/descpageRCPRINCEH-PE3TR.html
There's also a 18x20 and a lighter Team version.
I have found the following to be generally be true: Dunlop and Head have sweetspots lower in the stringbed. Wilson and Babolat have sweetspots higher in the head. There are some deviations from this, however.
Best racquets for hitting high in the stringbed:
1) Wilson Blade 98 and Blade 93
2) Babolat Aeropro Drive (GT is slightly better for this than newer version).
3) Babolat Pure Drive, Pure Drive Roddick, Pure Drive +, Pure Drive Roddick +. Pure Drive Roddick + is best for this.
4) Prince Exo3 Tour 16X18, Prince Exo3 Tour 18X20. 16X18 is slightly better for this.
5) Wilson Juice 100L.
I hope that helps.
Best racquets for hitting high in the stringbed:
1) Wilson Blade 98 and Blade 93
2) Babolat Aeropro Drive (GT is slightly better for this than newer version).
3) Babolat Pure Drive, Pure Drive Roddick, Pure Drive +, Pure Drive Roddick +. Pure Drive Roddick + is best for this.
4) Prince Exo3 Tour 16X18, Prince Exo3 Tour 18X20. 16X18 is slightly better for this.
5) Wilson Juice 100L.
I hope that helps.
JackB1
G.O.A.T.
In that case, the Yonex suggestions are null and void. You want a large and wide sweetspot. I would go with a Prince with O-Ports,
or something that is very round, like the Head Extreme's. Stay away from oval frames like the Rebel 98.
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JackB1
G.O.A.T.
YES!
everyone seems to be ignoring what he is saying and just assuming he means high towards the tip. That's why I asked him to clarify.
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Ronaldo
Bionic Poster
What do you mean 'tio'?
Ronaldo
Bionic Poster
Ty, from use, has to be Bab PD or PC and Head Extreme. Great response above center but firm feel.
Thanks,
Als recommended here:
6) Yonex general
7) Head extreme
8) Head Youtek Graphene Speeds S
I preferred:
- less then 320 SW
- small beam
- armfriendly
- max. servicepower
- control
Which one to choose?
JackB1
G.O.A.T.
Tip.........
Based on your criteria, I think you will have to make some compromises. The Prince Tour frames are great, but they definitely lack serving power-- otherwise, they meet all of your other criteria. The Blade 98 (either 16X19 or 18X20) also meet your criteria-- except for sw. If you purchase from TW, they can sort and find lowest sw within the factory tolerance.
You may also want to look at the Slazenger 98 Tour. It's supposed to play very similar to the Blade 98 and the power map indicates that it should be good for hitting higher in the head. The upside is that it's only $49!
You may also want to look at the Slazenger 98 Tour. It's supposed to play very similar to the Blade 98 and the power map indicates that it should be good for hitting higher in the head. The upside is that it's only $49!
Thanks,
Stays difficult.
I like the Prince Tour but I want max. serving power.
Is it possible to made that better with some lead on 10 and 2?
more exactly now:
- hitting higher in the stringbed
- max swingweight about 320 gram
- max. weight about 305 gram
- max. 21 mm beam
- headsize between 98 and 100 inch
- flex max. 65
- max. service power
- max. groundstroke power
- max. control
- perfect return review
now playing with the bb London with some lead on 10/2 and 6 and I want som more service and groudstroke power.
- hitting higher in the stringbed
- max swingweight about 320 gram
- max. weight about 305 gram
- max. 21 mm beam
- headsize between 98 and 100 inch
- flex max. 65
- max. service power
- max. groundstroke power
- max. control
- perfect return review
now playing with the bb London with some lead on 10/2 and 6 and I want som more service and groudstroke power.
counterpuncher
Hall of Fame
PK Qtour 295 with some lead at 3 & 9 or 10 & 2 and an overgrip or heavier grip is what you are looking for. It matches all of your criteria.
I hit the London for a while and this has similar feel and flex with more power on groundstrokes and serves without the dead spot at 12.
Check out the feedback and demo if you can.
I hit the London for a while and this has similar feel and flex with more power on groundstrokes and serves without the dead spot at 12.
Check out the feedback and demo if you can.
PMChambers
Hall of Fame
More lead at 12 or 10/2, increases swing weight, raises sweetspot, increases power on ground shots.
If you're using poly or co-poly strings change to a Multi they have more feel and more power but will lack spin.
Service power is more about technique than anything as it's related to head speed velocity more than than mass.
Unfortunately you'll never find a racquet to suit as you want contradicting characteristics,
max power - max control - max service power - best return
