How to Find Best String and Tension in Ten Restrings

[Maas]

I've been away from tennis for a long while. When last I played, I hit big topspin, and string breakage was a factor. I didn't think much about strings, and selected string and tension based primarily on string life and keeping strings from moving too much. I first used primarily kevlar in pro staff racquets, and actually settled on and was happy with an old string called Gamma Edge, which had steel cable mains. I am now getting back into tennis, and I'm realizing that I may have been underestimating the role of strings in the racquet setup. I've read that some attribute 50% of the racquet performance to the string setup.

With that said, I've recently purchased a stringer, and I am in a position to evaluate a number of string setups to find what may be a more optimal setup for my game. There are a variety of factors to consider in finding a string setup: the type of string (gut, synthetic gut, poly, etc.), the gauge of the string, the brand and model of the string, the tension, whether to use a hybrid of strings, etc.

My question is: what sequence of string/tension setups would you advise for someone to arrive at the right "zip code" for optimizing the string setup for their game? If you had 10 stringings to arrive at the answer, what sequence would you suggest? I realize that finding the right string can be a lifelong search for some, and with the constant innovation and changes in strings and racquets, there is no one answer. I'm only looking to get within, say, 10% of the optimal solution. Does anyone have a decision tree for steps in determining optimal string and tension?

For me, personally, I am looking for durability of the string, and playability. Even though I have my own stringer, I don't want a string setup that has me stringing a racquet after 3-5 hours of hitting. I've never hit much with poly (when I stopped playing, I think it was just coming into fashion), but I am attracted to the reputed durability of the string. My first stab at my 10 restringings (admittedly, just spitballing as I type this) is:

1. Full bed poly at 60lbs
2. Full bed poly at 56lbs
3. Full bed poly at 52 lbs
4. Full bed poly at 48lbs THIS SHOULD BRACKET WHAT TENSION WORKS WELL FOR ME
5-7. Try poly in 2-3 different brands/models and softnesses (Solinco, Babolat, etc.)
8. Try hybrid, with poly in mains and synthetic gut in crosses
9. Hybrid, with synthetic gut or natural gut in mains, and poly in crosses
10. Try hybrid, with crosses higher in tension than mains

Advice?

 

[dr. godmode]

If you are going to start with poly's, I'd recommend your upper threshold being 56lbs instead of 60lbs. Most people seem to be in the 50lbs +/-5lbs range these days, hence the suggestion.

Otherwise, I think the approach has good logic and seems like a fun experiment.

Ideal you have two racquets and can complete things as follows:
A. Step 1 and 2 together
B. Step 3 and 4 together
C. Winner of A and B together
D. Step 5 and 6
E. Winner of D and 7
F. 8 and 9 together (same strings, just swapped)
G. Winner of F done with uniform tension vs split tension

 

[esgee48]

Based on your background, why not use Kevlar mains and ZX or SG crosses?

For your poly experiments, I would like to know what thicknesses you are thinking about. 1.35, 1.30, 1.25 etc all play differently at same ref tension. Tension maintenance will also vary based on string composition and post extrusion handling.

Assuming you settle on one diameter, I would do polys at lowest recommended tension +/- 4# on second string job. Thinner may need lower initial tension. There is little need to do poly above midpoint unless you’re an advanced player. Polys should be cut out before 20 hours of hitting. Some will last only 4 hours max before you notice you have no control.

Going hybrids takes multiple trials, between 2 min to ime as many as 6 trials to find right ref tensions. Depends on player, frame and strings. The rabbit hole of finding the correct combo is one to be avoided.

 

[ouch_my_shoulder]

I would start with a relatively neutral, round poly and try tensions with bigger gaps. You may be surprised to see which direction you want to go. I see most people are stringing polys in the 45-50lb range nowadays (myself included) and trending lower.

Before you start hybriding, you might want to try a wider selection of poly strings. There are pretty significant differences once you consider the different brands and shapes available. Once you find something you like, I would suggest to just stick with it as much as possible and then base the rest of your experimentation around that. Don't hybrid just to hybrid; do it with a specific goal in mind. Do you want to soften the stringbed? Add more spin or power? Trade peak performance for longevity?

I also came back to the game last year. The short life of poly strings was one of the big surprises to me. They're said to be "durable" but only because they're tough to break. I've found that most poly strings need an hour or so of "break in" time, then they have a few hours of sweet spot, then the performance starts to decline. Some drop off quickly, some a little more slowly. Most are toast by 8 hours, some as few as 2-3. The really long-lasting ones are still only going 12-14 or so. But the performance of the string bed changes from session to session, a lot more than it used to when I just strung whatever Syn Gut was available 20 years ago.

 

[socallefty]

I would try 17g gut at 60 lbs and a 17g shaped soft poly at 42 lbs as my first two string jobs. There should be a clear winner here in terms of preference. Then tweak tensions and gauges of the preferred string till you like what you end up with. If poly, you could try some stiffer polys and round polys to compare in addition to gauges and tensions. If gut, you might want to try some high-end multis if budget is a concern for you. Change one parameter (string, gauge, tension) at a time so that you can isolate and understand what caused the change. Find the string type you like first, then the gauge and finally the tension - you might need to tweak tension for different outdoor seasons.

I don’t think you should mess with hybrids unless you have found your fullbed preference as it is a huge rabbit hole of choices.

 

[Chairman3]

What racquet will you be using?

I'd start with a basic poly, just some good all-around with average playability. I'd skip shaped for now. If you are just trying to find tension, minimize the variables. I can make a few recs if you are looking for string recs.

After that, I'd start basic, one racquet strung high and one low. So maybe a 55lbs and a 45lbs, play and then assess what was good and what was lacking. Then kind of jump around in that range, or you can expand the range if you want but you'd like end up in the same range anyway.
I agree with others, anything over 55lbs for poly is probably unnecessary.

I think once you isolate a tension then you can play with different strings more.

 

[Maas]

If you are going to start with poly's, I'd recommend your upper threshold being 56lbs instead of 60lbs. Most people seem to be in the 50lbs +/-5lbs range these days, hence the suggestion.

Otherwise, I think the approach has good logic and seems like a fun experiment.

Ideal you have two racquets and can complete things as follows:
A. Step 1 and 2 together
B. Step 3 and 4 together
C. Winner of A and B together
D. Step 5 and 6
E. Winner of D and 7
F. 8 and 9 together (same strings, just swapped)
G. Winner of F done with uniform tension vs split tension

Very good points. Up until a few months ago, I don't believe I had ever hit with poly strings. My son is starting to play, so I am getting back into things, and so I had an old Prostaff strung up with whatever they recommended. They recommended TNT, and I told them to string at 62 lbs, the tension that I always had my racquets strung (last with Gamma Edge, steel cable mains). I'm not impressed with it -- way too stiff. Aligns with your advice to not exceed 56lbs.

On the other hand, I strung my first racquet a week or so ago, and I was dying to try a lower tension, as I have been reading here and other places that poly does well at low tensions (mid-40lbs and less). Well, I strung a racquet at 50 lbs with Kirschbaum Black Shark 17g, and I have to say, it hit HORRIBLY. Couldn't keep a ball in the court. Never had a stringjob feel so bad. Now, I only hit once with it, and I am only now getting back into the game after 10+ years away, but I really don't think it is going to work with my game. I won't cut it out yet, and it is possible that it is owing to my first stringjob, so I may try that tension again, but ooof, I'm not optimistic. I do hit with heavy topspin (think Courier forehand, without the talent or consistency), but do pros really hit heavy topspin with low tension poly?

 

[Maas]

Based on your background, why not use Kevlar mains and ZX or SG crosses?

For your poly experiments, I would like to know what thicknesses you are thinking about. 1.35, 1.30, 1.25 etc all play differently at same ref tension. Tension maintenance will also vary based on string composition and post extrusion handling.

Assuming you settle on one diameter, I would do polys at lowest recommended tension +/- 4# on second string job. Thinner may need lower initial tension. There is little need to do poly above midpoint unless you’re an advanced player. Polys should be cut out before 20 hours of hitting. Some will last only 4 hours max before you notice you have no control.

Going hybrids takes multiple trials, between 2 min to ime as many as 6 trials to find right ref tensions. Depends on player, frame and strings. The rabbit hole of finding the correct combo is one to be avoided.

Good suggestion re: Ashaway strings. But, as I mentioned, I have been away from the game for awhile, and I had never hit with poly before. It seems to be ubiquitous in the game today, and kevlar really isn't, so I want to make sure I'm not missing out. So, I want to give poly a fair shot before I go on to other strings.

I got a bunch of free poly when I purchased my used stringer. It is almost all 17 gauge (1.25mm, I think that's 17g), and much of it is shaped I think (Kirschbaum mostly, such as Black Shark.) I would like to use that first, as it's free. Do you think this gauge, and brand, will give me a fair indication of whether poly is for me? If not, what types and gauges would you recommend to give a fair hearing?

BTW, as I mentioned in a prior response, I did my first ever stringing job on a ProStaff 95S racquet. Its lower recommended string tension is 52lbs. I strung it at 50lbs with Kirschbaum Black Shark 17, and that thing is a total trampoline. Couldn't keep anything in. This racquet does have an open bed (16x15). Other mitigating factors are maybe I screwed up the stringjob, and my game is a mess, but wow. Any comment on whether heavy topspin strokes can co-exist with lowish tension poly?

 

[Maas]

I would start with a relatively neutral, round poly and try tensions with bigger gaps. You may be surprised to see which direction you want to go. I see most people are stringing polys in the 45-50lb range nowadays (myself included) and trending lower.

Before you start hybriding, you might want to try a wider selection of poly strings. There are pretty significant differences once you consider the different brands and shapes available. Once you find something you like, I would suggest to just stick with it as much as possible and then base the rest of your experimentation around that. Don't hybrid just to hybrid; do it with a specific goal in mind. Do you want to soften the stringbed? Add more spin or power? Trade peak performance for longevity?

I also came back to the game last year. The short life of poly strings was one of the big surprises to me. They're said to be "durable" but only because they're tough to break. I've found that most poly strings need an hour or so of "break in" time, then they have a few hours of sweet spot, then the performance starts to decline. Some drop off quickly, some a little more slowly. Most are toast by 8 hours, some as few as 2-3. The really long-lasting ones are still only going 12-14 or so. But the performance of the string bed changes from session to session, a lot more than it used to when I just strung whatever Syn Gut was available 20 years ago.

Thanks for the reply. Can I ask what your playstyle is? 50lb tension on 17g poly, and I can't keep anything in the court.

What do you recommend for polys to try?

I don't think I have ever used a string that deteriorated. The only strings I have ever used were syngut (or nylon, as we called it as a kid), kevlar and syngut hybrid, and steel cable and syngut hybrid. I have read much about polys deteriorating after a short time. What does that deterioration feel like? I only ask, because I think my kid has been hitting on the same bed of poly for over a year, and I doubt he is sensitive enough to know what bad string feels like. Should I cut it out today? I only ask because I'm beginning to feel like a negligent parent!

Do you think the juice is worth the squeeze for polys, in your experience? Sounds like they can be a pain in the *** if you don't stay on top of their replacement (session to session change? who has time for that?!)

 

[Maas]

I would try 17g gut at 60 lbs and a 17g shaped soft poly at 42 lbs as my first two string jobs. There should be a clear winner here in terms of preference. Then tweak tensions and gauges of the preferred string till you like what you end up with. If poly, you could try some stiffer polys and round polys to compare in addition to gauges and tensions. If gut, you might want to try some high-end multis if budget is a concern for you. Change one parameter (string, gauge, tension) at a time so that you can isolate and understand what caused the change. Find the string type you like first, then the gauge and finally the tension - you might need to tweak tension for different outdoor seasons.

I don’t think you should mess with hybrids unless you have found your fullbed preference as it is a huge rabbit hole of choices.

Much appreciated. I have never tried natural gut, but I've always wanted to. I do live in a rainy climate, and I used to bust syngut every 2-3 hitting sessions. Do you think gut would be long-lived with me (not a snarky response by me, I am genuinely asking, and again, I have 0 experience with it.)

What would you recommend for a shaped soft poly? As I mentioned, I got a bunch of free Kirschbaum Black Shark 17g. I think this is shaped, but is it soft? I have only hit with poly for 2-3 hours total now. Not blown away by it so far, but I've likely not given it a fair trial. From reading about poly, I've envisioned a sublime ball pocketing experience, but at 50lbs (with caveats), I couldn't keep a ball in the court. I couldn't imagine 42lbs. Is this tension compatible with a heavy topspin forehand?

Appreciate your comments.

 

[Maas]

What racquet will you be using?

I'd start with a basic poly, just some good all-around with average playability. I'd skip shaped for now. If you are just trying to find tension, minimize the variables. I can make a few recs if you are looking for string recs.

After that, I'd start basic, one racquet strung high and one low. So maybe a 55lbs and a 45lbs, play and then assess what was good and what was lacking. Then kind of jump around in that range, or you can expand the range if you want but you'd like end up in the same range anyway.
I agree with others, anything over 55lbs for poly is probably unnecessary.

I think once you isolate a tension then you can play with different strings more.

Thanks. I would appreciate any specific string recommendations you might have.

I would be using a few older racquets -- prostaff 6.1, prostaff 95s, wilson six one 95s.

It is a common recommendation here to string polys at lower tension, and this is consistent with youtube and other forums. But see my replies above -- I couln't keep the ball in the court at 50lbs. Any ideas why? I won't give up on the low tensions, but 50lbs seemed crazy trampoliney, and 45lbs sounds like I could lauch a ball to the moon. Is this a technique thing that I need to work on? Are low tensions compatible with heavy wristy topspin?

 

[socallefty]

Much appreciated. I have never tried natural gut, but I've always wanted to. I do live in a rainy climate, and I used to bust syngut every 2-3 hitting sessions. Do you think gut would be long-lived with me (not a snarky response by me, I am genuinely asking, and again, I have 0 experience with it.)

What would you recommend for a shaped soft poly? As I mentioned, I got a bunch of free Kirschbaum Black Shark 17g. I think this is shaped, but is it soft? I have only hit with poly for 2-3 hours total now. Not blown away by it so far, but I've likely not given it a fair trial. From reading about poly, I've envisioned a sublime ball pocketing experience, but at 50lbs (with caveats), I couldn't keep a ball in the court. I couldn't imagine 42lbs. Is this tension compatible with a heavy topspin forehand?

Appreciate your comments.

If you break syngut that fast, gut will break fast too as you are likely an advanced hitter. So no point trying it at its cost. If poly at 50 lbs was launching, I would like to ask what racquet you are using? Still the old ProStaff or something else? If you use the same racquet, you might need to up the tension. Or change racquets to something less powerful first.

Some of the polys I like are ALU Power, HyperG, HyperG Soft, Cyclone Tour etc., but I have not tried many of the modern ones or small brands.

It sounds like you just started stringing. Just wondering if your recorded tension is accurate or the machine is calibrated. Just a thought.

 

[Chairman3]

Thanks. I would appreciate any specific string recommendations you might have.

I would be using a few older racquets -- prostaff 6.1, prostaff 95s, wilson six one 95s.

It is a common recommendation here to string polys at lower tension, and this is consistent with youtube and other forums. But see my replies above -- I couln't keep the ball in the court at 50lbs. Any ideas why? I won't give up on the low tensions, but 50lbs seemed crazy trampoliney, and 45lbs sounds like I could lauch a ball to the moon. Is this a technique thing that I need to work on? Are low tensions compatible with heavy wristy topspin?

Not sure, all I can assume is you have to play and adjust to it.
The last times I used my Pro Staff 95, it was strung at 46lbs and I could keep the ball in the court. So I'd just keep at it, really concentrate on follow-through and I think you'll adjust. I mean if you like a firmer stringbed you don't have to string super low, it's all personal unless you start having arm-problems.

For strings, two categories budget and other.
Budget: Gosen Polylon, Kirschbaum Flash, Isospeed Baseline
Other: Hyper-G Round, Hawk Power, Poly Tour Pro, Poly Tour Strike 1.20

Keep in mind, those strings are just my personal recommendations of what I think are good all-around, round strings. You can use whatever you want but to really find the right tension I'd keep using the same string.

 

[esgee48]

If you’re still using a PS 95S, you will need to increase tension a lot. It is a very open string bed. 17 ga is really too thin for spin effect patterns. If you have any 1.30 mm and stiff like 4G, then you could do 50#. If you only have 1.25 mm, you need at least 57# or more. As ref, I had clients between 48-50# with 1.30 mm 4G in Steam 99/105S.

 

[ouch_my_shoulder]

Thanks for the reply. Can I ask what your playstyle is? 50lb tension on 17g poly, and I can't keep anything in the court.

What do you recommend for polys to try?

I don't think I have ever used a string that deteriorated. The only strings I have ever used were syngut (or nylon, as we called it as a kid), kevlar and syngut hybrid, and steel cable and syngut hybrid. I have read much about polys deteriorating after a short time. What does that deterioration feel like? I only ask, because I think my kid has been hitting on the same bed of poly for over a year, and I doubt he is sensitive enough to know what bad string feels like. Should I cut it out today? I only ask because I'm beginning to feel like a negligent parent!

Do you think the juice is worth the squeeze for polys, in your experience? Sounds like they can be a pain in the *** if you don't stay on top of their replacement (session to session change? who has time for that?!)

I'm an all-court player, used to be more of an aggressive serve & volley style but lately sitting back at the baseline more than I should. After about a year back in the game, I am still building the confidence to come in to the net as aggressively/often as I should.

Surprising to hear that you have too much power or not enough spin with poly. My experience so far is that generally all poly strings are significantly lower power, compared to syngut and multi strings. I start to experience a drop-off in spin and the stringbed feels stiffer as the poly wears out. At a certain point I start to feel a twinge in my arm because I'm compensating for the reduced spin by over-swinging and strong-arming my forehands too much. That's when I know it's time for a change, usually in the 6-8 hour range. Probably when I was a kid, my arm would have been fine for a while (or I would have just played through it).

If you're hitting everything long, you could go up in tension or move into something more aggressively shaped to try and get more spin. Confidential and Hyper-G seem to be common pit-stops for everyone nowadays, and my stringer says they're some of the most common requests. My personal favorite is Lynx Tour, it's a "mildly" shaped string that tends to have a longer life IMO. You will probably get a million recommendations here.

After trying a bunch of different polys, experimenting with tensions and hybrids, my main racquet is feeling pretty good with gut/poly. I think I like a little more power than most fullbed polys can offer. Will probably experiment with multis this spring as play moves outdoors, since it might still be a little too damp for gut.

 

[Maas]

If you’re still using a PS 95S, you will need to increase tension a lot. It is a very open string bed. 17 ga is really too thin for spin effect patterns. If you have any 1.30 mm and stiff like 4G, then you could do 50#. If you only have 1.25 mm, you need at least 57# or more. As ref, I had clients between 48-50# with 1.30 mm 4G in Steam 99/105S.

Very interesting. Thanks for your advice.

I've actually never hit with this racquet before stringing it recently -- I bought a bunch of players' racquets some years back for about $10 a racquet, and I am just now stringing some of them up.

I never would have imagined that I needed to go up 5-7lbs in tension for this open stringbed, nor of the need for a lower gauge for this racquet. I am new to stringing my own racquets, and so don't know the general in and outs of need to vary tension according to string gauge and stringbed pattern. Are you aware of a website that lists general guidelines for stringing various stringbed types?

Thanks again.

 

[esgee48]

There isn’t any website in particular but it is somewhat common knowledge among stringers and other gear heads.

 

[Maas]

If you’re still using a PS 95S, you will need to increase tension a lot. It is a very open string bed. 17 ga is really too thin for spin effect patterns. If you have any 1.30 mm and stiff like 4G, then you could do 50#. If you only have 1.25 mm, you need at least 57# or more. As ref, I had clients between 48-50# with 1.30 mm 4G in Steam 99/105S.

There isn’t any website in particular but it is somewhat common knowledge among stringers and other gear heads.

OK. Indulge me a few questions:

1. Would you generally say that for open-bed racquets, you need to string tighter? And for closed bed, the converse?
2. Are there any string-bed configurations, and racquet head sizes, that certain gauges of string are not generally suited for? Or, can all gauges of string be used with all racquets, generally speaking, so long as adjustments of tension are made?
3. Can you say, from your experience, whether stringing the crosses at 3lbs less than mains leads to a more distinct pocketing effect? What other stringing suggestions would you make to enhance a pocketing effect in a racquet?

 

[esgee48]

1. Yes, greater spacing between strings requires higher ref tension. Or thicker strings which don’t deflect as much at same tension.

2. OS and Super OS frames should generally not use anything thinner than 17 ga ime cuz they can’t hold the tension long enough for most players. For mids, I generally don’t want thick strings either cuz if you want spin, its hard to achieve. 15ga in a PS85 or wood is ok if you hit flat or slice. Very hard to hit TS.

3. Pocketing just depends on the tension in the mains and crosses; their ability to slide over each other; and PLAYER. Soft string will deform more than stiff string. Poly main could be lower tension than multi or SG cross. Opposite could true if using poly cross. There’s no answer that says ‘do this.’ Some do what you suggest, others may not.

If you want pocketing, start with lowest tension you can control. Even here it is hard to say cuz pros vary between 20# to 60+#. If you can’t control with spin, up tension by 4# increments until you over shoot. Then back it down. You’re looking for your Dynamic Stiffness which is very dependent on string, their tension, frame and Player (mechanics.) As you experiment, change one variable at a time otw you won’t know why something works or fails.

 

[Maas]

1. Yes, greater spacing between strings requires higher ref tension. Or thicker strings which don’t deflect as much at same tension.

2. OS and Super OS frames should generally not use anything thinner than 17 ga ime cuz they can’t hold the tension long enough for most players. For mids, I generally don’t want thick strings either cuz if you want spin, its hard to achieve. 15ga in a PS85 or wood is ok if you hit flat or slice. Very hard to hit TS.

3. Pocketing just depends on the tension in the mains and crosses; their ability to slide over each other; and PLAYER. Soft string will deform more than stiff string. Poly main could be lower tension than multi or SG cross. Opposite could true if using poly cross. There’s no answer that says ‘do this.’ Some do what you suggest, others may not.

If you want pocketing, start with lowest tension you can control. Even here it is hard to say cuz pros vary between 20# to 60+#. If you can’t control with spin, up tension by 4# increments until you over shoot. Then back it down. You’re looking for your Dynamic Stiffness which is very dependent on string, their tension, frame and Player (mechanics.) As you experiment, change one variable at a time otw you won’t know why something works or fails.

Thank you. Good stuff.

 

[AmericanTwist]

This is the algorithm I use:

1. Start with an inexpensive solid core syn gut like Prince tourney nylon 15L or Kirschbaum syn gut 16 that you don't mind cutting out. Realize that in warmer temps, more open string patterns, softer strings, thinner strings, and faster swing speeds, tension needs to be higher. Use a nylon string to get a reference tension then go from here.

2. Once you nail down the optimal tension for ambient temps then you can try experimenting using other kinds of strings (different gauge even). Also, if you go up in gauge thickness you also need to increase string tension. Also, the more open the string pattern and larger head size, a lower gauge thickness with higher tension helps retain control.

There are so many variables you just need to experiement. But generally, don't sleep on nylon material (solid core syn gut, multifiber syn gut), but you may find that hybriding with poly may be optimal. For tension maintenance a poly string like kirschbaum max power or tour S7Tour or Luxilon 4g or some variant may work well. But nylon retains tension well and loses tension gradually vs a lot of poly strings.

Once you find a good set-up try sticking with it to decrease the variables.

 

[Maas]

This is the algorithm I use:

1. Start with an inexpensive solid core syn gut like Prince tourney nylon 15L or Kirschbaum syn gut 16 that you don't mind cutting out. Realize that in warmer temps, more open string patterns, softer strings, thinner strings, and faster swing speeds, tension needs to be higher. Use a nylon string to get a reference tension then go from here.

2. Once you nail down the optimal tension for ambient temps then you can try experimenting using other kinds of strings (different gauge even). Also, if you go up in gauge thickness you also need to increase string tension. Also, the more open the string pattern and larger head size, a lower gauge thickness with higher tension helps retain control.

There are so many variables you just need to experiement. But generally, don't sleep on nylon material (solid core syn gut, multifiber syn gut), but you may find that hybriding with poly may be optimal. For tension maintenance a poly string like kirschbaum max power or tour S7Tour or Luxilon 4g or some variant may work well. But nylon retains tension well and loses tension gradually vs a lot of poly strings.

Once you find a good set-up try sticking with it to decrease the variables.

Much appreciated. So, just to make sure I understand correctly, when you say "go up in gauge thickness", you are saying when you put in a thinner string (e.g., 16 gauge to 17 gauge?)

I have used a lot of syn gut in the past (10+ years ago), but with my heavy spin, I really can't use it for mains due to breakage, although I have used it almost exclusively for crosses (not sure I have ever used anything else except very recently, when I've begun experimenting with poly.)

 

[AmericanTwist]

sorry a bit ambiguous...so in other words, increase gauge number (thinner) you need to increase tension ceteris parabus...

Gamma makes a 15L syn gut with kevlar wap called "wearguard" prince makes a few 15L syn gut strings. There may be more... If syn gut mains don't last that long even after installing 15L styring then go with poly mains and sy gut crosses, dropping tension 3-5% depending on what you use...