Multi/poly vs full bed multi durability?

[ByeByePoly]

Obviously, in general for a given gauge, multi and syn gut are less durable than poly and gut. But I can't think of a logical reason why multi/poly doesn't last longer than full bed multi like gut/poly vs full bed gut? I think the consensus is gut/poly lasts longer than full bed gut (is that right?).

@392Hemi is doing a side by side test of velocity/cream and full bed velocity. Assuming someone with moderate spin on avg groundstroke (me), why would velocity/cream break quicker than full bed velocity? The only thing I can think of is gut has a slippery property against the stiffer poly that a multi does not. I guess gut is just totally unique ... very elastic and yet still resistant to notching even against a harder string.

 

[Deleted member 120290]

I played one singles match with OGSM/poly. Poly cross ate thru the main string in 1.5 hour.

Note: I hit with a lot more topspin in singles than I do in doubles.

 

[ByeByePoly]

I played one singles match with OGSM/poly. Poly cross ate thru the main string in 1.5 hour.

Note: I hit with a lot more topspin in singles than I do in doubles.

That is bad ... maybe LA weather destroys strings.

 

[esgee48]

Multi/poly hybrids let the multi mains slide across the poly; notching the mains and breaking them quickly. Poly coatings are also harder than multis. If the multi is coated, it is only on the surface and once that goes, good bye multi. Full bed multis have equal resistance to notching from mains and cross. Whichever one loses its coating first will start to hinder string movement, hence less notching. Generally, this is why full beds last longer.

 

[ByeByePoly]

Multi/poly hybrids let the multi mains slide across the poly; notching the mains and breaking them quickly. Poly coatings are also harder than multis. If the multi is coated, it is only on the surface and once that goes, good bye multi. Full bed multis have equal resistance to notching from mains and cross. Whichever one loses its coating first will start to hinder string movement, hence less notching. Generally, this is why full beds last longer.

So gut probably holds up because it is gut all the way through ... not dependent on a coating wearing off. Maybe they should make multi with one layer just below the coating that is tough.

 

[muph]

I broke the Xcel 1.30/Proline II 1.15 hybrid in 3 hours on my Pure Strike 16x19. I'll be switching to gut/poly now but trying to figure out what to use in wet conditions.

Sounds like most guys here are not getting much more time out of their multi/poly setups but would it help durability a lot if I combined the multi in the mains with a thicker gauge copoly like 1.25 so the poly wouldn't saw through the multi as fast?

 

[esgee48]

If you use a thicker cross, the mains will not move as easily because they have a 'hill to climb'; whereas if you use a thinner cross, the mains move easily, but are notched by the harder surface of the poly. If you want spinny setups, use thinner crosses. The options are yours, but the adage '6 of a kind vs 1/2 dozen' seem to apply. Of course you can also use Babolat Teflon String Savers if you don't mind putting them in. There is no perfect string setup for most people. If that animal ever existed, everyone would know about it and use it it (or some variant of it.)

 

[Doc Hollidae]

Used to play with Maxim Touch Main and Big Ace crosses. It used to last me ~1 set of doubles or 30-45 minutes.

 

[xFullCourtTenniSx]

That is bad ... maybe LA weather destroys strings.

LA weather is great. That's why SoCal is a pretty darn good tennis region.

Multis just can't handle the rope burn. They're significantly more durable in the crosses. Though that just means a few more hours on some. Multis lose strength layer by layer. Gut doesn't.

 

[ByeByePoly]

LA weather is great. That's why SoCal is a pretty darn good tennis region.

Multis just can't handle the rope burn. They're significantly more durable in the crosses. Though that just means a few more hours on some. Multis lose strength layer by layer. Gut doesn't.

Was just kidding @TenFanLA ... most tennis players wish they had CA weather. I would take year round outdoor tennis over seasons by a mile. Anyone who visits San Diego wants to take the weather back home with them.

Looking for non-poly (or low poly) strings post TE throws me back to durability issues I never thought about with RPM Blast. I must be a moderate string breaker ... never broke rpm, but a lot of notching on ppc at 6 hours. When weighing gut/poly against multi ... I need a multi to last "long enough" between taking to stringer. I prefer to end up with a multi solution rather than gut ... for various reasons.

Anyway, looks like multi/poly is defintely not the way to go for durability. Looks like full bed Velocity most likely will be "durable enough" for me. Very little notching at 4 hours. I think there would be a chance cream/velocity might last longer than full bed Velocity, but I will only test that if full bed Velocity doesn't last long enough.

 

[esgee48]

May I recommend using ZX in the mains with something like 17 Ga 4G, Revolve or SPPP in the crosses? Prestretched ZX (absolutely needed) will outlast the poly cross. You'll need to string near the 60# limit of ZX. But it will still be softer than most multis. Polys can be done 5-10# lower. The polys mentioned are factory prestretched and noted for their tension maintenance.

 

[ByeByePoly]

May I recommend using ZX in the mains with something like 17 Ga 4G, Revolve or SPPP in the crosses? Prestretched ZX (absolutely needed) will outlast the poly cross. You'll need to string near the 60# limit of ZX. But it will still be softer than most multis. Polys can be done 5-10# lower. The polys mentioned are factory prestretched and noted for their tension maintenance.

No

Did you see the part about TE and goal of no poly. 4G stiffness 260 .. OMG.

Not interested in ZX because I don't string myself, and don't want my stringer dealing with high maintenance string. I would have already tried it for @Shroud if I did my own stringing.

Which reminds me ... TW review called 4G comfirtable. I just don't get why stiffnes level isn't the same thing as comfort level. Gut at 100 ... comfortable, 260 ... NOT comfortable.

The only reason I looked at 4G review and specs was my friend has full bed 4G @56# in a Wilson Ultra 103S (RA 72, strung weight 10.8). So much for light racquets and poly causing TE ... or the theory you need a heavy racquet for quality groundstrokes.

 

[esgee48]

You need 4G or any other thick dead poly in S frames. I do a lot of 4G 16 Ga 52# in the 105S.

Just mentioning this setup as it has the advantage of longevity. 4G in the crosses is not as bad as 4G in the mains. SPPP is much softer. Oh well, continue your quest for the Holy Grail.

 

[ByeByePoly]

You need 4G or any other thick dead poly in S frames. I do a lot of 4G 16 Ga 52# in the 105S.

Just mentioning this setup as it has the advantage of longevity. 4G in the crosses is not as bad as 4G in the mains. SPPP is much softer. Oh well, continue your quest for the Holy Grail.

Thanks for input... really appreciate it. I have learned more from you guys about strings in a couple of months than I did in 40 years of tennis. Half my friends struggle to tell you what string they play with. Don't even bother asking them how much their racquet weighs.

I have found my string ... Velocity. I just asked @scotus a question about velocity 17g cross in Velocity thread. Chime in over there if you want.

 

[xFullCourtTenniSx]

Was just kidding @TenFanLA ... most tennis players wish they had CA weather. I would take year round outdoor tennis over seasons by a mile. Anyone who visits San Diego wants to take the weather back home with them.

Looking for non-poly (or low poly) strings post TE throws me back to durability issues I never thought about with RPM Blast. I must be a moderate string breaker ... never broke rpm, but a lot of notching on ppc at 6 hours. When weighing gut/poly against multi ... I need a multi to last "long enough" between taking to stringer. I prefer to end up with a multi solution rather than gut ... for various reasons.

Anyway, looks like multi/poly is defintely not the way to go for durability. Looks like full bed Velocity most likely will be "durable enough" for me. Very little notching at 4 hours. I think there would be a chance cream/velocity might last longer than full bed Velocity, but I will only test that if full bed Velocity doesn't last long enough.

If you can suffer having multi crosses, it gives more durability than multi mains. Also, some multis are more durable than others.

Really depends on what you're looking for. At this point, I'm just looking for dirt cheap stuff since I have my own stringer. Won't matter if it breaks often if the cost is low enough.

 

[ByeByePoly]

If you can suffer having multi crosses, it gives more durability than multi mains. Also, some multis are more durable than others.

Really depends on what you're looking for. At this point, I'm just looking for dirt cheap stuff since I have my own stringer. Won't matter if it breaks often if the cost is low enough.

Yes, having your own stringer changes the equation. I had a Alpha dw table top years ago, and gave it away. If I played more hours, I would get another one. The thought has crossed my mind. Turns out I have enjoyed testing different strings. If I had my own stringer I would have tried Volkl Syn Gut by now. At this point, I need at least "good" durability.

What kind of strings are you hitting. Several of us ex-poly players are finding success with Velocity. $8 a set now at TW if you order 4 sets.

https://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/head-velocity.586942/