but if i cut 21' i wont have enough cause the other half will be 19' so do i just not use that for main? and i don't have a starting clamp. so how do i use the floating clamp as a bridge?
Normally crosses don't take up a ton of string. I always pull ~18 feet for crosses (unless I've found a reason not to for a particular frame). The only frames I even bother measuring out are 18x20 OS frames.
21/19 will be fine for almost all frames -- In fact, several string sets come with less than 40 feet. Additionally, you can string a one piece pattern so you aren't wasting/cutting off string after knot ties on both ends. You can make the short side 11' comfortably.
Do yourself a favor and get a starting clamp. It will save you a lot of headaches like this.
To use a floating clamp as a bridge. Clamp the end you want to pull, and clamp the scrap string on the other side. You may want to put a knot on the end just in case it slips. Then just cut the knot afterwards.
Though I foresee another problem, you might not have a free floating clamp.
Agree, a starting clamp is very nice for this kind of issue. I don't like using floating clamps for bridging unless absolutely necessary, though. Unless you're using a 3 "jawed" floater (like the larger swingway clamp), this will put a lot of torque on the clamp.
I prefer putting a simple knot on both ends of the string (the string to tension, and your "extension" and then tying a square knot with both strings. The knots on the end will prevent catastrophic slippage. If this isn't clear I can get a picture for you. I'd just do my best to avoid the occurrence in the future.
I was able to tie some extra string from the set up that broke and tension it. But i still have a question if all i need is 20' is that adding in what it takes to reach my crank or do i need to add some string to be able to reach?
The string pattern accounts for tensioning string. The issue here is that not all machines require the same amount of string to tension. A crank, for instance, requires only a very short amount of string, largely because the tension head is NOT fixed and (generally) has linear jaws, so there is no wrapping length required for a "drum" design. Since your stringer requires more string, you need to budget for more string.
Again, you should have no issues with a shorter length of string on the crosses. ESPECIALLY if you don't have a starting clamp, you should be using a starting knot. This implies that you don't have to "save" an extra length of string at the TOP of the frame (if you aren't familiar with a starting clamp starting method... just ignore this entire section, or look it up on youtube). This means you should have even MORE string left over on the crosses (often times to the tune of ~3-5 feet). Measure how much you have left over (after your tensioner) next time you do crosses on that frame. Chances are, you'll be surprised
