Having best drop weight as backup is always an option .
You`ll never know when something can go wrong with electronics like Wise sor lifting weight will be your only option.
***Stringway Machine Users Club***
- Thread starter 10SDad
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Having best drop weight as backup is always an option .
You`ll never know when something can go wrong with electronics like Wise sor lifting weight will be your only option.
Lakers4Life
Hall of Fame
Stringway does make an Electronic machine, the EM-450.
Stringway does make an Electronic machine, the EM-450.
They were in past but now focused on mechanics which is they favorite cost efective solution.
There is a lot to be said for having a backup tensioner. My problem was clutch springs on the drop weight would pop every 400 to 600 rackets. And it was a pain in the rear to fix.
Todays electronics are so much better, in 5 years I never had to use the backup. Plus when you upgrade to a new machine, you can take the Wise with you.
Maybe what motivated Stringway into electronic machines. The days of levers and springs are on the decline.
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Stringway Machines are not using spring clutch they have gripper releade auto feature which release the brake.
With 2 triple clamp you can achieve great Dt value beyond 45 Dt record for Ginis maybe.
Also triple flying clamp can accomodate a lot of patterb that can be done using single action clamp.
With 2 triple clamp you can achieve great Dt value beyond 45 Dt record for Ginis maybe.
Also triple flying clamp can accomodate a lot of patterb that can be done using single action clamp.
Correction
Can`t be done using single action clamp I demand administrator to give me edit post rights
thanks
mmk
Hall of Fame
You need to get 50 posts in before you can edit. It is a bit infuriating.
cluckcluck
Hall of Fame
Just got myself a Stringway ML90.
I'll probably order a stand for it in the near future aswell, because using it on a table hurts my back after an hour or so.
I'll take a few pictures of my ML90 when I have time.
Congrats! You can see mine earlier in this thread.
marco forehand
Semi-Pro
Just got myself a Stringway ML90.
I'll probably order a stand for it in the near future as well, because using it on a table hurts my back after an hour or so.
I've built a custom adapter to use a Ektelon H stand with my ML 100. I do think a stand is a plus.
I will be listing Stringway stand for M models in for sale section soon.
To each their own, but I would never replace a Stringway drop weight with an electronic tensioner. The main reason I bought the Stringway was for the constant pull drop weight with correct tension at any angle. Not much that can go wrong with a heavy metal weight at the end of a metal arm, but electronic motors wear with time. I will stick with metal and gravity for tensioning.
You can also buy a tool stand or microwave stand. I use a $50 tool stand for my ML90.
You can also buy a tool stand or microwave stand. I use a $50 tool stand for my ML90.
Electric motor is good but not ultimate solution because its also mechanical unit with circuit board on it if something goes wrong you have to service unit and wait long time to repair it since some parts are unique.
With constant pull gravity you have to make sure that earth is always same other maube if you plan to go to mars then another story
With constant pull gravity you have to make sure that earth is always same other maube if you plan to go to mars then another story
I have a ML100with double action clamps.
I like the tensioning head. It creates consistent tension especially in the crosses as I straighten the crosses while under tension.
One issue I have is string 6.1 95. The first and last cross are too close to the support towers. I spoke to Stringway a out this and they recommended to skip the second to last, string the last and go back to the skipped a d pull tension.
I like the tensioning head. It creates consistent tension especially in the crosses as I straighten the crosses while under tension.
One issue I have is string 6.1 95. The first and last cross are too close to the support towers. I spoke to Stringway a out this and they recommended to skip the second to last, string the last and go back to the skipped a d pull tension.
cluckcluck
Hall of Fame
If you have a floating clamp handy, you can clamp the first two strings from the top or above the stringbed.
I have a stringway with floating clamps and sometimes, it's just too tight at the top and have to clamp from above.
I have used a floating clamp when the last cross is too close to table to use the fixed clamp.
But, if you use the skip 2nd to last and weave the last cross first. And, then come back to next to last cross. What is the best process? Do you skip 2nd to last C and pull tension on last cross even though you cannot clamp it? Or, do you weave last, then weave next to last, and then pull tension on 2nd to last? Should you increase tension on 2nd to last cross as tension was not pulled properly on last cross - if effect, you are tensioning 2 cross strings with 1 pull?
I am by no means the most experienced here, but I'll take a shot. If I were using a multi or synthetic that is going to stretch quite a bit on each pull, I would go ahead and pull tension on the last cross first, even though I would not be clamping it off, just to get any additional stretch out of that portion of the string first. Then I would pull both the last and 2nd to last together with an increased tension of around 8 lbs., to compensate for both the double-pull and loss of tension in the tie-off. When both are tensioned together and prior to clamping off, I would press down a few times first on the last string, then on the 2nd to last to take out any remaining stretch/slack due to the double-pull.
Again, that would be my approach, but other members of this thread may have a better method.
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BlxTennis
Rookie
I am using similar approach. After pulling the 3rd last string, I then weave the last one and pull tension. I clamp that half way or where ever you can clamp, the weave the 2nd to last string as the final pull then tie-off.
Thx 10sdad and BlxT. I'll give that a try next time I don't have room for the clamp. My floating clamp is just an inexpensive gamma and it tends to really pinch the strings together pulling them way out of alignment. I think pulling 2 crosses with increase of 8 lbs might be a better option.
Babolat retainer - issueso
Hi all,
I´ve had an ML90 for a few years and I am pleased with most aspects of the machine with one major exception:
- When stringing with the babolat retainer, the retainer tends to lift at the back when installing the mains (tilt inwards, if that makes better sense).
- As a result, the hoop is allowed to compress causing tension loss on the mains during stringing.
- At the end of the stringjob the racquet comes off the macine approx 3-4mm too short.
I feel the babolat retainer is poorly designed as its geometry will let the bridge of the racquet move it when tensioning the mains. Using the normal bridge supports is not an option on Babolat racquets since the bridge profile will cause the racquet to slide/lift on the supports when the mains are tensioned. IMO, this is an inherent problem with the internal support principle.
Anyone have any experience with this? And perhaps a fix?
Hi all,
I´ve had an ML90 for a few years and I am pleased with most aspects of the machine with one major exception:
- When stringing with the babolat retainer, the retainer tends to lift at the back when installing the mains (tilt inwards, if that makes better sense).
- As a result, the hoop is allowed to compress causing tension loss on the mains during stringing.
- At the end of the stringjob the racquet comes off the macine approx 3-4mm too short.
I feel the babolat retainer is poorly designed as its geometry will let the bridge of the racquet move it when tensioning the mains. Using the normal bridge supports is not an option on Babolat racquets since the bridge profile will cause the racquet to slide/lift on the supports when the mains are tensioned. IMO, this is an inherent problem with the internal support principle.
Anyone have any experience with this? And perhaps a fix?
You Can Mount racquet with 2 white original plastic support Or Make Babolat retainer from Metal Part And See any difference,
Stringway mount system is Direct And Does Not Compress The Beam Since The Developer inovation was Safety Of The Racquet.
If you want bigger Tension on racquet raise your tension on cross strings use triple flying clamp you can order from their site.
I dont think that deforming of racquet during stringing will decrease the mains so much maybe only if you use noticable low tension on crosses.
Cheers
Also made comparison with both machine and automatic Stringway Ml 100 drop weight and high.end electronic machine baiardo.
End result was same Dynamic Tension same beam length of racquets were the same .same copoly string and same tecnique but i released clamp when pulling cross then straight and clamp last one then.another ahead.
That should do the trick.
End result was same Dynamic Tension same beam length of racquets were the same .same copoly string and same tecnique but i released clamp when pulling cross then straight and clamp last one then.another ahead.
That should do the trick.
I thought this might be a worthwhile issue for the manufacturer to comment on, so I passed it along and received this response. " This is the first that we have heard of this. The retainer can only tilt forward when the upper part of the "V" is not in touch with the racquet. It is important that the retainer is adjusted so that it hits the racquet at the upper and lower side of the "V" shape."
From my understanding, the original Stringlab and the ERT 300 use the same methodology which is calculated by measuring stringbed vibration. Measurements are not always easily generated, and because the way the calculations work inaccuracies can be doubled. The Stringlab 2 uses a similar methodology to the Babolat RDC, deflecting the stringbed and measuring the associated force required to do so. A simpler and more straight-forward approach, and more consistently accurate than vibration. Nice that there is the option for testing racquet stiffness as well.
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diredesire
Adjunct Moderator
Actually, if you look/think about the design of the stringway mounting, you'll realize that this is a "user error" (or a mounting adapter design issue).
The babolat adapter is designed for the thin throat bridge piece to sit in the middle of the adapter. This may seem obvious, but the adapter doesn't sit at the correct height for the frame due to the hold down design of the stringway mounting stocks. Basically all that needs to be done here is either not torque the frame down all the way (keeping an eye on where the throat bridge meets the adapter) OR take an old leather belt (or plastic) and use them as a spacer beneath the racquet and THEN torque the frame down.
If you think about it -- the hold down mount design of the stringway itself does not provide ANY support for the frame. It's only used to keep the frame in touch with the white plastic mounting stocks.
My 2c.
There Is a tool That Beers Creator Of ERT unit Developed For Frame Stifness It Works On Same Principle The Frequency Of.the Beam And Thus Way Measure How Much Is Flex Beside Rdc But This Tool does Not Entered Market Since There Was No Commercial Point From it.
These Days You Could Find All Data On Usrsa Site for Almost Any Frame All You Need To Know Is Which Racquet Has More Frame Stifness Then Another Thats All.
Cheers
I've strung a racket with natural gut for the first time with my Stringway ML90 today and I noticed that no matter how gentle I put the string in the tension head it would sometimes leave little marks on the string. Sometimes even little white spots, which obviously isn't something you want with natural gut.
Is this something other Stringway users have experienced? Any tips to prevent this?
I strung with Klip Legend 16 at 24kg.
Is this something other Stringway users have experienced? Any tips to prevent this?
I strung with Klip Legend 16 at 24kg.
If you think that gripper jaw is leaving mark you could sand out edges of the upper clamp shell .
Other solution is to release weight rod gentle and slowly to avoid kinking of the gut .
Regards
I just took the upper clamp shell off and indeed noticed there's a tiny edge that is probably causing the marks on the string.
I'll try to sand out the edges a little bit as you suggested.
Thanks!
That should work. Depending on the age of your stringer, they changed the machining at one point so the edge of the upper jaw could be a bit "sharp". Also, be sure with softer strings like gut that you are wrapping the string around the back of the jaws and through the other side for a double-pull.
That should work. Depending on the age of your stringer, they changed the machining at one point so the edge of the upper jaw could be a bit "sharp". Also, be sure with softer strings like gut that you are wrapping the string around the back of the jaws and through the other side for a double-pull.
The machine is brand new, I've only had it for 2 weeks.
Good point about making sure to wrap the string around the back of the jaws, the surface of the clamp shell is a lot smoother in the center than it is at the edges.
I took a close up picture where you can see the rougher edges in the top corners:
cluckcluck
Hall of Fame
Yeah, not as often since the dust/residue/debris is less there. I use an all purpose cleaner and some papertowels to clean off the head. About every few months I go through the entire machine and inspect and or tighten or lube anything that needs it.
A clean machine is a happy machine.
The upper jaw removes pretty quickly and easily, so I have no issues cleaning that when I do the clamps. Probably not as necessary, but doesn't hurt. I highly recommend denatured alchohol for cleaning the clamps and tension head. It cleans very well, evaporates quickly, and leaves no residue (petroleum distillates) like mineral spirits.
BlxTennis
Rookie
Peppershaker, did you ever get the dimensions on the Si tube? and where can be purchased?
Thanks to everyone who replied to my post. If nobody else has any problems I must be doing something wrong...
The problem is that even when trying to apply the tips, carefully mounting the racquet (while thinking ;-)) I am still having problems.
Case in point: Strung a Radical MP today using the normal throat supports. I decided to not use my normal workaround and mount in accordance with the tips given in this thread:
- Observing that the throat supports contact the frame and are symmetrical (same for tip supports).
- Very gently securing the hold down supports. I mean very gently.
- Making sure that the center of the bridge was sitting at the correct height given its beam width compared with that of the racquet tip.
Proceeding to string as normal I made the following observations:
- The screws that hold the throat supports have a little play in them allowing them to tilt forwards.
- When tillted slightly forward this, together with the slight taper of the bridge cross section makes the racquet climb on the throat supports when the mains are installed.
- As the racquet climbs it begins to transfer load to the hold down supports. The load on the hold downs transfers to the mounting plate causing it to bend upwards where the hold downs are secured.
As a consequence, the frame is allowed to compress when the mains are installed. In this case the compression was 6mm. After installing the crosses the racquet was 2-3mm shorter than unstrung length.
Over the years I have owned the machine I have noticed that it is easier to work with box (or rounded box) beam/throat racquets since the throat on these racquets are far less prone to climb on the throat supports (for obvious reasons).
The problems I noted above are about the same as those I have with the Bab retainer. The main difference is that I have found a workaround that can be applied when using the normal supports but are difficult to apply successfully with the retainer. The workaround involves taking as much play as possible out of the system prior to stringing, even going as far as stretching the hoop approx. 1mm when mounting.
Also, regarding the retainer: I disagree that it is impossible for it to tilt when it makes contact with the bridge above and below the center. Since the center of the V-notch is above the anchor point (screws) a lever arm exists. That, along with the slight play in the screws that hold the throat supports is enough to start the problem. Once started it becomes self-reinforcing.
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Without seeing the issue occurring, I can only tell you what I do.
(I also have Radicals (MP & Ti) and have had no issues with them or any other racquet thus far.)
I leave one tower loose (handle side) and place the racquet over the standard mounts while adjusting the loose tower to the correct distance. Next I put the hold-downs over the frame and loosely tighten them, enough to secure the racquet but not so tight that the racquet cannot move. Then I gently pull the loose tower to snug the racquet firmly against the mounts, but not so tight that the frame is elongated. Then I tighten that tower in place while holding the tension. The next step is to tighten the hold-down supports. For me it works best to get them very snug, so I turn the knobs until they won't tighten any further without undue pressure. This ensures there will be no vertical movement of the racquet and also helps horizontal movement. Then I secure the final center mount at the tip.
If you are "very gently" tightening the hold-downs, there may be too much play allowing the racquet to slip up the mounts.
That's how I do it, and it works well for me. Takes all of the "play" out.
What you are describing is pretty much what I normally do when stringing. My most recent post was a description of what happened when I tried to follow the tips that Dirediesire (and others) posted. I too have found greater success when I go to lengths to take out as much play as possible.
Have you looked closely at the throat mounting plate after you have installed the mains? Is it straight or bent upwards? I find that no matter how I mount the racquet (and I've tried many different approaches), the plate will bend when the mains are installed due to loads exerted on the hold downs. (Bending in the transverse plane, about the tower axis if that makes sense).
I have found that placing the hold downs over the throat/forks reduces the amount of vertical load on the hold downs and corresponding bending of the mounting plate. I can't help but think that the old Stringway mounting with the screw-down throat support must have been better in many ways.
I am sure you know that when mounting the racquet as you describe (pulling on one tower to take out the play) the tower may tilt a little inwards prior to tightening the tower screw. If it does, the tower will exert an additional pull on the racquet after tightening and this will slightly stretch the hoop. Thus, it is possible to inadvertently stretch the hoop when mounting the racquet. When using the Bab retainer I have found that I need to apply a miniscule hoop stretch to compensate for the compression that occurs when installing the mains.
On a general note: I have strung on other machines and I find the Stringway mounting system to be a greater source of frustration than joy. Alas, a Stringway is what I have and I am trying to make the most of it. Many aspects of the machine are great, but I am struggling to make the mounting system work for me in a consistent way.
Best,
F.
Stringway Resource Page
Fellow Club Members,
The folks at Stringway have offered to create a page on their website as a central location for information and resources beneficial to Stringway users. Since members of this club (both past and present) have first-hand experience with the products, this group can offer a lot regarding what would be helpful to have available. To get the ball rolling, I will suggest downloadable user manuals, specifications/diagrams, stringing methodologies, and FAQs. Please post your ideas, and when some good suggestions have been accumulated I will pass the info along.
Thanks.
10SDad
Fellow Club Members,
The folks at Stringway have offered to create a page on their website as a central location for information and resources beneficial to Stringway users. Since members of this club (both past and present) have first-hand experience with the products, this group can offer a lot regarding what would be helpful to have available. To get the ball rolling, I will suggest downloadable user manuals, specifications/diagrams, stringing methodologies, and FAQs. Please post your ideas, and when some good suggestions have been accumulated I will pass the info along.
Thanks.
10SDad
diredesire
Adjunct Moderator
I'd appreciate a full disassembly and/or cleaning and/or maintenance procedures.
Peppershaker
Rookie
Tubing needed is 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD (1/8" Wall). You need 2 x 1" for the front posts, and 2 x 1 1/4" pieces for the back posts. You can find silicone tubing on the web at this size, but order quantities and cost are somewhat high given that this 5" would probably last as long as the machine.
I have access to plenty of this tubing and could provide it, just not certain how best to do so.
For those in this group who utilize the string testing and methodology of Stringway, here are their latest results.
http://www.stringway-nl.com/pdf/STRINGTESTS version 2013-1ENG.pdf
http://www.stringway-nl.com/pdf/STRINGTESTS version 2013-1ENG.pdf
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So do we have this page on the Stringway web site yet. Would like to see it happen.
Not yet. Per my initial post, I was hoping for some additional feedback before passing the info along to Stringway, and at this point Diredesire is the only one who commented.
johndagolfer
Professional
I have the MS200 DX and I've noticed lately that almost every pull now I need to use the release lever to get a full pull.
Does anyone know the reason for this?
Otherwise it's been a great machine.
Does anyone know the reason for this?
Otherwise it's been a great machine.
BlxTennis
Rookie
You mean that little knob on the back that you push down in order to get the jaw to start pulling tension?
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