Prince Neos 1000 Glide Bar Alignment

Niel · May 11, 2017

Hello Everyone,

I am having alignment problems with my glide bar getting stuck while stringing. I have to push one side to loosen it up so I can move the clamps to the next clamping position. Problem started when I loosened up the screws and tried to tighten the alignment.

I tried searching YouTube for a video on a proper way to align it but it seems none exist.

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

MAX PLY · May 11, 2017

First thing to do always with the Neos is to make sure the machine is clean. So in this case, make sure both the slides and the slots (i.e., the tracks) are completely clean--use alcohol and small brush/toothbrush and/or Q-tips on the slots and just a rag on the slides. If it still does not slide right, adjust the bars as indicated on p. 23 of the Neos 1000 owners manual. If all of that doesn't work, you can try a small amount of lubricant but that is a last resort. But remember, clean first, adjust second and avoid lubricants if you can.

Irvin · May 11, 2017

Loosen the one rail end support, press down on glide bar so rail end supports are flush with turntable, tighten rail support end while pressing down on bar.

Bespectacled · May 11, 2017

I had a similar problem with my glide bars because there was too much play (used machine with well worn bars). I had some advice from JC at Tennis Machines and forum here that helped.

First make sure the bars are level. Loosen screws at end of bar and push down to level the feet. Tighten screws.

Next align the steel feet. The manual gives some clearance value but I never figured out how to use a feeler to adjust. I slightly looosened the screws on the feet, slid the bar back and forth so it glides smoothly and then tightened the screws. You may have to adjust a few times.

Finally, on a forum member's suggestion, I greased the steel feet. That took out the friction that would cause it to bind. I used a small amount of lithium grease and it glides much more smoothly now.

Hope that helps.

Rabbit · May 11, 2017

The problem is most likely the feet. The previous post explains it well. The end screws usually are not the culprit.

Irvin · May 11, 2017

Bespectacled said:
First make sure the bars are level. Loosen screws at end of bar and push down to level the feet. Tighten screws.

I agree, but why would you need to loosen both ends?

Bespectacled · May 11, 2017

Irvin said:
I agree, but why would you need to loosen both ends?

Yes you only need to do one end per the manual.

The important point is to do this step before adjusting the feet. That was advice per JC at Tennis Machines.

Rabbit · May 11, 2017

^^^^^^^^^
Been there, done that for the exact same reason! It seems logical that the end screws are the problem, but they are not (ever).

Irvin · May 11, 2017

Rabbit said:
Been there, done that for the exact same reason! It seems logical that the end screws are the problem, but they are not (ever).

I agree with you how could the screws cause the problem?

Rabbit · May 11, 2017

Irvin said:
I agree with you how could the screws cause the problem?

It's been a while...the screws in the feet of the glide rail are what keep them at a continuous angle. When you loosen and then push down and tighten, then you realign it correctly. I'll look at a glide assembley when next I'm around a 1000 if I remember to.

Irvin · May 11, 2017

Rabbit said:
It's been a while...the screws in the feet of the glide rail are what keep them at a continuous angle. When you loosen and then push down and tighten, then you realign it correctly. I'll look at a glide assembley when next I'm around a 1000 if I remember to.

I think we're saying the same thing.

MAX PLY · May 11, 2017

Rabbit said:
It's been a while...the screws in the feet of the glide rail are what keep them at a continuous angle. When you loosen and then push down and tighten, then you realign it correctly. I'll look at a glide assembly when next I'm around a 1000 if I remember to.

That is correct. The OP's issue should be pretty easy to fix--clean (per my post above), put the bars back on the machine (you may need to loosen the screws in holding the bars in place), make sure the bars are parallel, and then adjust the slides/feet (loosen the screws under the slides) to make sure that the glide bar assembly moves freely--Prince recommends an end clearance of 0.010-0.015" (0.25-0.35mm)--but don't measure unless you really feel you have to, just make sure they move freely and then tighten all of the screws while preserving the "moving freely" positons (bars and feet).

Bespectacled · May 11, 2017

MAX PLY said:
Prince recommends an end clearance of 0.010-0.015" (0.25-0.35mm)--but don't measure unless you really feel you have to, just make sure they move freely and then tighten all of the screws while preserving the "moving freely" positons (bars and feet).

How would you measure the clearance anyway? I've done valve adjustments on motorcycles using flat metal feeler gauges but I have no clue how you would measure the clearance as suggested here.

MAX PLY · May 11, 2017

^^^I have no idea--I was parroting the manual. Besides, the measurements are largely irrelevant--it either slides correctly or it doesn't. I was really trying to start an argument between the 0.010" camp and the 0.015" camp.

Niel · May 11, 2017

Thank you to all that replied, I finally got it right, it moves smooth as silk now.

I followed Max Ply's suggestion to make sure everything is clean, aligned the glide bars as per Irvin's instructions and finally aligned the steel feet as per despectacled's way, also added little amount of lithium grease just to coat the rails and steel feet.

I was surprised how it moved now, it glides without friction. Thank you again!

Bespectacled · May 12, 2017

Happy to hear you got it sorted out.

Irvin · May 12, 2017

Niel said:
Thank you to all that replied, I finally got it right, it moves smooth as silk now.

I followed Max Ply's suggestion to make sure everything is clean, aligned the glide bars as per Irvin's instructions and finally aligned the steel feet as per despectacled's way, also added little amount of lithium grease just to coat the rails and steel feet.

I was surprised how it moved now, it glides without friction. Thank you again!

I would clean all the grease off the rails and the clamps. Grease can cause all sorts of problems.

Bespectacled · May 12, 2017

Irvin said:
I would clean all the grease off the rails and the clamps. Grease can cause all sorts of problems.

But it makes it slide so smoothly.

Irvin · May 13, 2017

Bespectacled said:
But it makes it slide so smoothly.

True it will but the purpose of the bar is to hold the clamp. Of it slides too easy you need to tighten the clamp more so it does not slide on the bar. Then there is always the string touching the bar over and over while you string getting gease on the string. Then you clamp the string and that small build up is on the clamp teeth too. It's best to clean the bar and clamp very well and not to apply any lube.

Bespectacled · May 13, 2017

Irvin said:
True it will but the purpose of the bar is to hold the clamp. Of it slides too easy you need to tighten the clamp more so it does not slide on the bar. Then there is always the string touching the bar over and over while you string getting gease on the string. Then you clamp the string and that small build up is on the clamp teeth too. It's best to clean the bar and clamp very well and not to apply any lube.

Ah I see the misunderstanding. I didn't apply grease to the bar, just the feet so the assembly slides smoothly in the grooves. I could see how greasing the bar could cause problems.

Irvin · May 13, 2017

Bespectacled said:
Ah I see the misunderstanding. I didn't apply grease to the bar, just the feet so the assembly slides smoothly in the grooves. I could see how greasing the bar could cause problems.

Ok but maybe a good cleaning with Safariland CLP would be best there too. You can find it in the gun section of Walmart.

Bespectacled · May 13, 2017

Irvin said:
Ok but maybe a good cleaning with Safariland CLP would be best there too. You can find it in the gun section of Walmart.

Maybe, but I cleaned the turntable channels and metal feet with rubbing alcohol with no improvement. Next I cleaned with brake cleaner but still no improvement. So I figured that I would have to replace the feet or maybe upgrade to swivel clamps or live with it as is.

But at another forum member's suggestion (thread here: Advantages of Neos 1000 > Gamma x-6fc) I used a bit of grease on the feet and wow, the improvement was fantastic. It was now worthy of the name glide bar. IMO the clean only routine works if the feet are not too worn. But that wasn't my situation. So if you have worn feet and binding glide bars, it's worth trying. Your machine, your call. Do or not do.

MAX PLY · May 13, 2017

For what it's worth, a small amount of lubricant on the slides/track is probably fine. There used to be a product called "Glide Slide" (formerly available from Tim Strawn's site) that was for that very purpose. I tried it once out of curiosity and it worked well but never have really had the need to use it. As long as you don't get on the clamps or glidebars themselves, you will be ok. Just watch for any dirt/dust/gunk it may attract. Glad it worked out.

Irvin · May 14, 2017

Bespectacled said:
But that wasn't my situation. So if you have worn feet and binding glide bars, it's worth trying. Your machine, your call. Do or not do.

I haven't used glide bars in years, if that was addressed to me.

Bespectacled · May 14, 2017

Irvin said:
I haven't used glide bars in years, if that was addressed to me.

No, I was using the "royal you" in my comment.

ppt3 · Jul 11, 2018

Just got an used Neos, and I am fine tuning the glide bar.

I would like to keep the free play as little as possible. I think as long as it glide smoothly, a little extra resistance is fine with me. Hopefully that will keep the tension more consistent.
What's your opinion on that?

Also any one know what the "end clearance of 0.010-0.015" (0.25-0.35mm)" really referring to in the manual? and how to measure it?

I found when I wiggle either end of the bar up and down, there is a little play, but that is caused by difference of the thickness of the foot piece and the width of the gliding slot, therefore not adjustable.
This will get worse with more wears.
I noticed that the gliding end of the foot plate is a little tapered (just a tiny bit), is that normal? or is it due to too much wear on mine?
Maybe buy a set of foot plates for backup if possible?

Thanks.

MAX PLY · Jul 12, 2018

I believe the "end clearance" is speaking to the distance from the edge of the slide/"foot plate" and the wall of the slot itself. I have never attempted to measure it (and that seems impractical)--I have always just adjusted them by feel to make sure the inside of the slot is not grabbing the slide too tightly and the bar moves smoothly in the slots. Generally, the key is keeping the slides and the slots clean. I have never noticed a "taper" on the slide and I suppose they do wear over time. That stated, I have never, ever had to replace a foot plate on a well maintained machine (I have replaced them on used machines I have reconditioned where they were just too rusted or corroded).

ppt3 · Jul 12, 2018

MAX PLY said:
I believe the "end clearance" is speaking to the distance from the edge of the slide/"foot plate" and the wall of the slot itself. I have never attempted to measure it (and that seems impractical)--I have always just adjusted them by feel to make sure the inside of the slot is not grabbing the slide too tightly and the bar moves smoothly in the slots. Generally, the key is keeping the slides and the slots clean. I have never noticed a "taper" on the slide and I suppose they do wear over time. That stated, I have never, ever had to replace a foot plate on a well maintained machine (I have replaced them on used machines I have reconditioned where they were just too rusted or corroded).

Thanks. Wondering why one foot plate is very wide, and the other is very slim.
Seems you can put them in either way while stringing. Nothing got blocked.

Dunlop300g · Oct 20, 2023

@MAX PLY Just want to say thanks to everyone that posted on this thread and some of the other threads related to Neos 1000 maintenance. Just picked up a used Neos 1000 this past weekend and had to do this glide bar adjustment, and adjust the table brake slightly. Much thanks to those who posted links to the owners manual and the maintenance manual ... kudos. I am thoroughly impressed with this robust machine; with the information posted here it didn't take much time to dialed this one in.

MAX PLY · Oct 22, 2023

^^^ Congrats on your new acquisition. Glad all is working out so far. Enjoy.

Dunlop300g · Oct 22, 2023

MAX PLY said:
^^^ Congrats on your new acquisition. Glad all is working out so far. Enjoy.

Thanks again @MAX PLY and the group. Casters should be arriving on Tuesday; first frame strung up on this Neos 1000 was, fittingly, a Prince Warrior DB Team EXO3 for a new friend and customer.

Wes · Oct 22, 2023

Dunlop300g said:
...first frame strung up on this Neos 1000 was, fittingly, a Prince Warrior DB Team EXO3 for a new friend and customer.

The Neos 1000 is a good/easy/efficient machine for utilizing the 50/50 method on the crosses (for O-Port/Speedport/EXO3 type frames).

No starting clamp necessary and, therefore, zero need to do the usual "clamp dance" that is involved with typical swivel clamp machines.

Dunlop300g · Oct 22, 2023

Wes said:
The Neos 1000 is a good/easy/efficient machine for utilizing the 50/50 method on the crosses (for O-Port/Speedport/EXO3 type frames).

No starting clamp necessary and, therefore, zero need to do the usual "clamp dance" that is involved with typical swivel clamp machines.

Yes. I got a lot out of your video on that one, it was well-explained. I just did it the ordinary way with the table lock. I may try the 50/50 next time around though.

Wes · Oct 22, 2023

Dunlop300g said:
Yes. I got a lot out of your video on that one, it was well-explained. I just did it the ordinary way with the table lock. I may try the 50/50 next time around though.

Thanks for the compliment.

Worth noting...
Attempting to utilize the "brake method" (or "hip method"), with the Neos 1000 (and most other crank/lockout machines), or even a Wise 2086 tensioner, presents 3 potential issues.

The Neos 1000's (disk style) brake isn't always the most secure, and therefore may not be adequate enough (i.e. prevent slipping) to counter the forces involved (particularly at higher tensions and/or with larger sized hoops).
The torsional forces being applied to the tensioner/gripper assembly can lead to damage/problems with the tensioner (as they were never designed to be pulled sideways).
The gripper plates/tensioner assembly can potentially damage the string due to the (new) string angle that gets created along the front edge(s) of the gripper.

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